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  1. Today
  2. thanks for that ...anyway this is the template looking towards the fretboard ie the 1st string pole is a lot larger than the 6th + the are other elements in the fernandes pickup though i made the core without the 'side / bottom ' bits ..just the poles and 9mm deep it must be scaled so the strings match up with the poles it works a treat as a basic sustainer fernandes put a lot more into the design with phase shifters /agc / current amplifiers and limiters etc etc so unless a schematic is published of their circuit ( or someone designs something similar ) the true fernandes performance will be hard to emulated i used a lm386 with no preamp but running at 12v from a psu ( i haven't tried it with 9v batteries ) i think any amp with a decent 0/p which will drive an 8ohm load will do??? this for me gave sustain on all 6 strings...job donel jeff beck watch out happy hacksawing reg-g
  3. Here's what happens if I re-save your BMP as a GIF and attach it to the post: Bottom line, use GIF, JPG or PNG if you want to attach pictures to a post so that they display automatically. Don't use BMP as the forum treats it as a downloadable link rather than an image.
  4. OK, I can click on your BMP link and download it, so it must be uploading to the forum OK. I've just tried re-attaching your BMP to this post and it adds it as a link rather than a picture. I suspect the forum doesn't know how to display BMP files natively. fernades template.bmp
  5. fernades template.bmp i have dragged and dropped this bmp it is still only a shortcut to my hd i am running xppro 32bit and using google chrome
  6. Great job, @a2k They both look fantastic
  7. Sure, but the saddle will only need to be adjusted backwards. ;-) Lighter string guage, your strings need to move LESS backwards. Heavier string guage, your strings need to move MORE backwards, meaning you'll want that extra range. Remember, the bridge is positioned without string tension in mind at all. Pure scale length. So even with the lightest possible strings (including theoretical strings not even in existence!) and the high E barely gets any extra tension at all (hardly pulls sharp), you barely adjust the saddle back while intonating. But you do move it back a LITTLE. That's my real reply. But come with me into daydream land.... --------------------------- If you're someone who always uses really heavy heavy strings, I guess you could theoretically face a choice... but I would personally never build a guitar like this. And that choice is this: you KNOW that you use heavy strings and that even the high E will be back a bit from the scale length. To give the other saddles maximum backwards range, you could move the entire bridge back so that the high E saddle, while 100% forward, is at around the point you expect it to be (based on experience, measuring other guitars with similar setups, etc) for proper intonation. In this case, you'd really HAVE to use a little bit of wiggle room... it's only sane... but speaking of sanity... I would never do this with a typical adjustable-intonation bridge. You can't predict if you'll go lighter in guage, or if your guitar might end up in someone else's hands (a gift, deciding to recover some desperation $$, gets passed along after you yourself... pass along...), and this kind of decision could cripple the guitar's overall usefulness. But you could theoretically do it. ;-) --------------------------- I do think "pre-setting" compensation points (following a pattern or formula taken from non-intonatable bridges), could become more useful if you're doing individual-saddle bridges instead of a typical adjustable bridge.
  8. Yesterday
  9. Just testing if drag/drop works too:
  10. Sounds like you're trying to upload the link or shortcut to the file, rather than the file itself. If I upload a file by clicking on the "Choose Files" link in the bottom of the reply window, below: I get this: I don't think there is anything wrong with the uploader
  11. FWIW, I've never had to move a saddle forward on a freshly installed bridge if I position it at the scale length point on the guitar. For this reason I always position the saddles nearly as far forward as possible to allow maximum backwards adjustability when placing the bridge. Shouldn't matter what type of bridge it is. Depressing the string to a fret causes it to bend, which in turn raises its pitch. Therefore it makes sense that increasing the scale length (moving saddes away from nut), rather than decreasing the scale length (moving saddles towards nut) will compensate for this behaviour. If the bridge has been positioned as above, it shouldn't matter what string gauge you use - the string will always bend upwards in pitch when depressed and will need an increase in scale length to compensate. A saddle that needs to move towards the nut after the bridge as been installed at the scale length position on the guitar because the strings want to pitch flat when played in the upper registers suggests that the bridge wasn't placed correctly to begin with, or something is wrong with fret placement. The only time I can think you'd need to move the saddle forward is when the string gauge/material changes, but this assumes the bridge was already positioned correctly when installed. Even in this case, the distance from nut to saddle after moving the saddle forward will still be [scale length] + [extra compensating length].
  12. Today's lamination of the deep topography Fire Burl in 1/4" acrylic went great. The panel also thermoformed without bubbling, formed to a 26" radius nicely, and is ready for cutting. Will be a much better blank than the previous one with the green liquid back carving. On top of that, I thermoformed the 4th quilted acrylic panels with high adhesion back coating to very uniform radii. Now on to the easy part - making guitars with this stuff. Trust me - it is the easy part. I may not say that when these are done in a month or so.
  13. You're not entirely wrong. There's more to it than just that. For example, changing string gauge can affect intonation.
  14. Welcome to the forum - lots of great help here. Here is a hint on pictures - I always resize my pics to 1280 x 1920, and while doing so, I increase contrast a bit and then is saves as a medium resolution pic, and quick to upload. Cell phone cameras nowdays seem to default to insane high megapixel images for some stupid reason, so reset to low res as its default if you don't want to resize in other software. Whats the fingerboard radius? Those inlay dots look interesting.
  15. Will you show us the freakin guitar already - the anticipation is killing me . The color is awesome on the fingerboard.
  16. so i cant now upload an xls document ( it is stored as a link and tries to access my hd instead of opening as microsoft xls document ) DONT GET IT ....WHATS WRONG WITH THE UPLOADER???
  17. the sustainer will work with a lm386 even without the fet preamp the core ( poles ) must be of a 'bar' type divided into 6 poles of different areas the same wire and magnet was used to build a new driver and everything worked as should be ( on all 6 strings ) a 12v psu is the power source since the circuit is not very economically designed power wise ( + it give the 386 a bit more clout ) this is one of the main points of a commercial system..very low power consumption the 'harmonic' mode is not addressed either. but if you want to start making music with it works a treat the coil was wound to 8ohms with 32awg copper wire see xls for core will need scaling to match the guitar string spacing at the fretboard hope this helps one or two to get started
  18. Next build I'll be completing is a carve-top KM-I - Wenge on Mahogany body, 5-piece Maple/Purpleheart neck, Ebony fretboard, Floyd Rose, Schaller M6 tuners and BKP Cold Sweat (N)/Miracle Man(B). The first coat of Tru-Oil was laid this afternoon, aim to be finished by end of first week of May...
  19. After trying to source a local luthier, I gave up and just went with Warmoth for my custom pickguard, which arrived today. So, only (almost) 5 months later, I'm now at the following stage... I just need to expand the holes for volume and tone - volume pot will be positioned where the second tone pot would usually be, so it will sit at the top.- then I can wire it all up. All the while hoping for the best.
  20. Yep, last photo is the smoothing stage with a ball grinding bit after doing the initial carving with a carbide ball mill. Too bad this one won't be in one of the three first builds. After living with it for a while, I decided that I didn't like that green "drip" carving. It is good, but not awesome enough to be included in these three builds. I will keep it, and it may become a guitar if my current "Fire Burl" lamination is not as cool as I think it will be. The outer multi-colored stuff in the top pics is a new, recent lamination I call "Fire Burl". I used inlay grade Fire Burl for that face, which is a tighter pattern, with lower topography so it inlays into necks in a .040" cavity. The heavier topography version looks way better, so I just laminated a panel this morning and am hoping it thermoforms nicely. If so, I will not do the black inner part with the green back carving. It will be the whole body face. Then I will overlay black acrylic around the knobs, bridge and pups. I think it will look better - simpler, kindof less is more. A good artist knows when to stop, and I think I went too far on this last one - a bit too Roger Dean ish (as much as I love his Yes album covers).
  21. That's a nice mini guitar... ^^
  22. Yeah, the fingerrest really shines like glass in the light. Macassar takes such a nice polish. I'm a huge fan of Micro Mesh. I'm going to kind of play it by ear as far as matching the headstock with the fingerrest. Right now the plan is to hit it with a little garnet shellac before adding tru oil. If the color isn't right I can always mess with it from there. Scott, I very much attribute my current pace to my diet. Besides being a pretty free time of year for me I have so much energy in the evenings that after the kids are in bed I'd rather go out in the shop and work than veg in front of the TV. I should have my body form finished this evening, decided I could proceed on it without waiting on the template. Then I will just need to finish my headblock and tailblock and I can start bending some sides! I'm very much looking forward to that.
  23. Guitar Of The Month is just closing on an empty month.....there's a couple of days to snag it ;-)
  24. Thanks for the kind words guy's. My brother and I are actually working on mini amps for all of the kiddies. kinda a combination of the old smokey amps + a tone control + a nice little preamp. hoping to free wire it and then encase it in acrylic resin so you can see the guts.... not 100% sure if it'll work out but gonna get started on the prototype as soon as parts come in.....
  25. Great looking stuff man. Almost makes me want to start a bunch of new builds!
  26. ...and it looks great! The wood grain plays quite nicely with the neck timber and scarf accents. SR
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