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  2. Man, that is one superb transition! I was going to try something like that with Chinaberry Two, which be my first scratch-build. What kind of glue did you use, Titebond Original?
  3. best bet is to get a good machinist with an accurate machine to true the edge. Or use a granite surface plate that is for a machinist that is known to be flat and surface it to that with sand paper. .
  4. And here's the tops.
  5. One of my wood suppliers posted 4 pics last week of 4 black limba tops he had just cut up and I just had to have them. I messaged him and he said 3 were for sale and he was keeping 1 for himself so I bought the 3. So my plan here is to do 2 guitars I need a twin type fashion but a little bit different from each other. The 1st one will be black limba top, padauk body, wenge neck, wenge headstock, black limba headstock faceplate and I haven't decided of fretboard yet. I'm thinking for the fretboard maybe curly maple or roasted curly maple maybe. 2nd one will be black Limbatop (the one with the wide v down the middle, padauk body core, black limba back (the one with the thinner v down the middle) wenge neck, wenge headstock, black limba headstock face plate and sand thing with the fretboard. Today I got the black limba in, went and picked up my padauk and wenge, cut the padauk to get ready for joining, scarf jointed the necks and have them gluing up.
  6. So i got the Roland Gr55 on ebay used at a great price. also got the gk pickup system internal kit new for about half price. So now I will have something to make me a midi guitar after I get the prototype Bodid done. WhoHoo!!! MK
  7. Today
  8. As expected, this was scary to wire up in the tight cavity. I can't believe I go through it without burn marks! You can see the 5 mm neodymium magnet sitting on top of the sunken screw in that pillar in the center. I was in a rush to make this maple cover, and it shows. I will probably give it another try later, but tomorrow is first gig, so ... The maple cover is just super-glued to the magnet inside, and I needed a way to hold it in place ... thus another magnet while the wood super glue hardens. This was nearly a disaster, as the second magnet immediately jumped from my hand and attached itself to the super glue! After separating the (no mean feat!), I tried again, keeping the second magnet on the top of the guitar, and it was another chore to grab it ... it's so tiny, and kept jumping to another metal part. First attracted to the humbucker (naturally), to the bridge, then to the screw of the strap pin ... Gaahh!
  9. Thanks, Knightro! A compliment from you means a lot, as I've seen your work! The clamps are off, it's wired up, and just had band practice ... tomorrow debut.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Thank you! I try to keep a fairly comprehensive set of pics for each build, but sometimes I just get in the zone and forget! Voyager 7 neck has been unclamped. Everything looks good and solid, so on to sketching out the heel carve.
  12. An easy way to tell if your straight edge is really straight is to to draw a line with the edge in question, and then flip the straight edge over and draw a line with same edge right on, or right next to the first line and see if there is any separation. SR
  13. I've always wondered how one intonates an air guitar. SR
  14. I think it's called 'Air Guitar'.
  15. KM-II #2 complete. Full gallery shoot coming soon...
  16. Hello, I am trying to make a notched level for my guitar building. I started with a metal rule that I have had sitting around for years doing nothing. I measured out the notches and proceeded to hack at it with a grinder. The finish is a little rough but the notches are the correct distance apart to fit over the frets. Problem there is that the ruler is not completely level. I checked it after notching it, against a straight edge that I have. Another thing would be, "how do I know that that straight edge has a straight edge". Well it came off of a mechanical cutting machine and I assume that it is straight. I have tried other things against it and it seems to be straight. I then bought a notched straight edge off ebay and found that it is also not straight. In the center there is about 1mm of light to been seen on both sides. What is the best way to get this completely straight? I was thinking about laying it flat on something and rubbing it down with sand paper but then, is the flat surface straight? Any helps or hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  17. That would be something to see......er, or not see! SR
  18. Looks like we've both got necks in clamps at the moment! The grain on that chinaberry is really great, I bet it looks even better in person.
  19. It's really very simple. First is spraying nitro. Then go to that trick I mentioned with the 400 grit. Next I go through the micromesh grits: 1500-12000. I typically use them dry so I can see what is happening, but sometimes will use wet with mineral spirits particularly in the courser grits. Then buff with that Meguiers ultra-cut buffing compound on an automotive buffer with a wool pad. That does a brilliant job of removing shallow scratches and swirl marks. SR
  20. Tone tape! What a brilliant concept! It would probably look brilliant with a paisley fabric top too. SR
  21. awesome work, nice pics of the routing process!
  22. Yesterday afternoon ...
  23. If you ever fancy doing a tutorial on your polishing regime I'd be very interested. You do get rather good results!
  24. It looks even better now I can see it on a proper monitor (I always use my mobile for BassChat)
  25. If it were any more shiny it'd be invisible. Even the light would slide off it.
  26. [Shawn Of The Dead] You've got red on you... [/Shawn of The Dead] Looks pretty spectastical, Andy
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