Jump to content

Entry for June 2018's Guitar Of The Month contest is open!
ENTER HERE!

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. curtisa

    HSH Wiring Questions

    Yes, and if you look at photos of some variants of the Ibanez Jem (the guitar where I believe this switching pattern first originated), you will see the neck and bridge pickups with the screw slugs on opposite sides to allow this to happen. Normally in a HSH combo with the positions 2 & 4 Stratty 'quack', it's the middle single that is spec'ed as reverse wound/reverse polarity, as it would be for a regular Strat. It's easier and cheaper for the manufacturers to achieve this than reverse winding/reverse magnetising the two humbuckers on either side. That should mean that the coils you want to combine from each humbucker should have the opposite magnetic polarity compared with the middle single. Easily checked with a magnet - on the humbucker coils the magnet will be attracted to the slugs and on the single it will push away. Reversing the winding (if necessary) is then just a matter of swapping the solder connections on the single. Parallel is normally the way to do it, yes. But anything is possible given the right switch. No idea how it would sound; hotter/warmer than the equivalent parallel position 2 & 4 I would've thought? Series wiring on a Strat is fairly common mod, there appear the be a few Youtube videos out there that demonstrate what it sounds like.
  3. Today
  4. D_stone

    Upgrading my NK headless guitar

    I appreciate the information @flashriprock. I actually was able to get in touch with the seller today and they allowed me to order the one I wanted. It will be a bit before I receive it, but that gives plenty of time to plan. I have another question regarding one of your first post that showed a 2D drawing of the guitar body. Is it hollow all the way up to the side of the bridge? I was hoping to cut it in such a way that I could change the shape of the body to look more like that of a Grote brand headless guitar. This may not be possible if the body is hollow. Once again thanks.
  5. Polymaker

    HSH Wiring Questions

    Hi guys, I've been given an HSH pickups set not too long ago and while I already finished designing the guitar I'll used them on, I still haven't decided on how I'm going to wire-up the pups. For this build I want to understand what I'm doing instead of blindly following a wiring diagram. Electronics has been my nemesis for a very long time and now I decided to take the time to try and understand how it works. I already learnt quite a bit while finishing my pickup winder last month (I'll make a topic on that as soon as I get my new motor, I fried-it like a rookie when trying to measure the current ). Just today I finally solved the mystery of coil-splitting. I couldn't understand how the coil that stays on was different on the neck and bridge while the wiring is the same for each. Many diagrams do not show properly that the neck humbucker is flipped (or the bridge idk) so the coils are opposed to each other. Now to get back on topic, I have two questions regarding coil split: First, how do I figure out with which coil (adjustable or slug) the middle pickup will hum-cancel. I've read that it has to do with how the pickups is wired/wound and so it can vary from one band to another, Second, this one is a thought I had that I think may be crazy or may not work at all because I couldn't find anything on the internet. Normally, from what I understand, when combining the middle pickup with a coil-split humbucker, they are wired in parallel right? Is it possible to wire them in series to make a virtual humbucker? How would it sounds like? Is this crazy? For information the pickups are from an early 2000 Ibanez S model.
  6. Yesterday
  7. westhemann

    Misc stuff about life.This one goes to eleven...

    Anyone ever watch Fortitude on Amazon Prime? I really like it. Running through it a second time. It's got everything. Polar Bears, Metal, hot chicks, mysterious evil happenings... Sure beats the hell out of American tv these days.
  8. avengers63

    Bent side ES style

    Yep. The hinge should be basically the same as the LMII mold in the 1st pic. At least the function should be the same.
  9. hooglebug

    Classic Sakura

    well, I just glued some veneer to some ebony, cut a little slot in the veneer and glued a sliver of ebony binding into the slot for a marker, then cut some smaller circles and glued them on top and cut the knobs out so they look like liquorice allsorts. tomorrow i'll see if I can make a nice hole in the center to put the bits I've cut from some other knobs in so I can get them onto pots, and then at some point if my wrist can stand it i'll just try shaping them with a Dremel like I did the tuner buttons
  10. MiKro

    6 String Lap Steel.

    Well the Satin clear is a Bust, after a few coats it makes the Walnut look Plastic. So sanding back and going with semi-gloss. Pictures soon.!! mk
  11. ScottR

    Bent side ES style

    Are you planning to glue a second piece that does not have a hole in it to each half so they will be flush when the holes are lined up and the pin is in? SR
  12. avengers63

    Bent side ES style

    I needed to make the pieces of each side of the form first. Then I can glue the rest together offset. Here's what I'm trying to mimic. The sides are held together with a piece of PVC tubing. It took me waaaaaaay too long to think my way through the process. I'm smarter than this! The shadow is obscuring what I was wanting to show you.The bottom of the mold isn't rounded the way I want it. The transition is too sharp for my liking. I'll have to work it with some sandpaper later.
  13. flashriprock

    Upgrading my NK headless guitar

    Hi @D_stone. I'd suggest being persistent. I too had to email more than once sometimes, but I eventually received a response. I consciously tried to send my inquiries during their business hours in China so my messages were fresh. When I got a response, I'd pounce to keep the conversation going real-time. I tried to have contiguous dialogues when possible rather than stretching them across many days. English is a second language, and it's easy for things to get lost in translation. I also sent pictures with arrows and highlights to help, and I wasn't afraid to keep checking after a period of time. I got the feeling they were doing their best. Best of luck!
  14. ScottR

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    I think the finish ended up outstanding! SR
  15. KempGuitars

    Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    Yes, definitely worth it when you see the end result Appreciate your views on the wiring passives and actives. I have had to set that aside for a few days as I need to get on with other work but I will speak to my client about the options.
  16. Yeah, just regular old glue stick.
  17. gpcustomguitars

    Classic Sakura

    Found the tool that gave me the idea!
  18. gpcustomguitars

    Classic Sakura

    Here's a more detailed drawing. I got the idea because the original tool is actually making tapered tenons, meaning the tenon flanges out from the constant size to full width of the material used. I'm not sure my quick geometry is completely correct for the cutter, as I'm writing from work, but I will try to do a mockup, using a piece of cardboard to determine the correct cutter shape. My first application worked fine when used at higher speeds, but that was thin plastic, so using lathe logic, larger diameter material=lower speed. I think this would work with some prep tinkering. So the knob would sort of plug the cutter when done. Drilling the hole trough in some 1" hardwood stock, reaming the first taper, and probably routing the last flange? A piece of mild steel would probably hold the edge long enough for a set of knobs/proof of concept.
  19. charisjapan

    Classic Sakura

    @gpcustomguitars, Aha! I see what you're saying, and it sounds like it would work great on resizing, tapering, or sharpening a constant-size dowel. How could that work with a knob, especially a bell?
  20. It also makes the tone pot more usable. Really though, vintage wiring shines more with cranked amps and you control the amount of crunch and breakup with the instrument.
  21. Prostheta

    Classic Sakura

    I've used similar sorts of ideas on the lathe to make dowel stock. They work pretty nicely, and I imagine that this approach would sidestep the issues around sideload with drill presses.
  22. gpcustomguitars

    Classic Sakura

    What I had in mind was using a hand held drill. It would work like a pencil sharpener of sorts, similar tools are used in making of stick furniture for shaping the ends into tenons, can't remember the brand name, just that they go onto the drill, and the material is fixed, and here the material is on the drill, and the "sharpener" is held in a vice. I used the same method for making a simple rod using just a hand held drill: 1-IMG_20170901_184019 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20170901_184118 by Goran P, on Flickr
  23. Hi everyone! So a couple of months ago my uncle gave me a store bought neck and a basswood guitar body he'd worked on before he retired as a carpenter. So I decided to finish it, and bought a whole load of parts for it, but am only now being able to put any time into the project. So I chatted through the parts options with my buddy, and bought a 2 point trem (style 3 in the link: http://www.axetec.co.uk/guitar_parts_uk_041.htm) mostly because I hadn't come across the design before, and was curious about having a different bridge to my existing guitars. However, I haven't been able to find any decent guides to installing one of these things, especially in how to position it, and how to install the bushings. Accurate tools shouldn't be an issue, as I'm planning on returning it to my uncle so he can do some of the more precise work in his shop, but I obviously want to get the installation here right. It's a fresh body, with no existing holes, so I can't really work from those, but that does at least mean that the strength of the wood isn't compromised at all. I'd appreciate any and all input you can give. Thanks in advance! Oliver
  24. charisjapan

    Classic Sakura

    I just made an electrosocket-like plug out of Padauk for my Limba Redux, and. I can tell you that it’s not easy to get a truly round whatever. The grain, no matter how subtle, fights to make an irregular whatever. Now, I admit that my drill press is a cheapo, but as @Prostheta mentioned, they don’t do well with side loads. For my plug to be round, I spun it against my belt sander while eyeballing, then chucked it into the drill press for final size and polish. One way I found to use a drill press effectively was by using a drum sander in a hand drill against the whatever. It’s a bit hard to make two matching items ... but I suppose possible. At least this way there is minimal side-load on the press. Some day I’ll buy a lathe.
  25. I love how you have the template on there. Is that done using some type of glue? Very cool.
  26. Prostheta

    Classic Sakura

    The problem is that most drill presses can't handle side load very well. At best it causes the chuck to drop out of the taper, at worst it ruins the concentricity of the drill by causing uneven wear in the bearings or other rotate-y bits.
  27. Prostheta

    Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    I'd say that it pretty much is the least likeable phase, however I think powering through that leaves you with a final product that is incomparable or at least, unachievable through cheating and accepting half measures. Especially end grain which takes ten times the work, and the transitions over the edges. It's one of the first places I look. An op-amp based summing integrator would be the way I'd look at combining the pickups....as a first call anyway. Impedance matching between a high-impedance passive single coil and buffered low-impedance buckers isn't something I'd want to do passively and one circuit will happily load the other in that instance, especially when using volume and tone controls. All sorts of wacky crazy things start happening.
  28. gpcustomguitars

    Classic Sakura

    Here it is - I used something simpler to make some rods for the side dots on a recent fretless build. Can't tell what would the possible problems be without actually trying it out (which I probably will, I'm starting to twitch already ). I guess that the material shoudn't be cut cross-grained. Hope this helps! Goran
  1. Load more activity
×