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  1. Yesterday
  2. mistermikev

    First full build from scratch

    build is looking really good. the cream/pine is a lovely combo - you might want to find some cream pu rings as that would just tie in nicely. I don't want to come off as a negative nelly here... but you might have some noise problems with that wiring... it doesn't look like green orange and red are shielded... and they really should have a braided shield IME. I say this because I have learned it the hard way. semi-hollows - since they aren't shielded at all on the inside... are prone to noise issues esp if you have wires crossing each other. The last thing in the world you want to do is have to rewire once you do the work to get your electronics in there. IME every single wire you use should be shielded ... even wires you wouldn't normally shield like those going to the 3 way switch. The ground can be connected only on one side... as that will form a better shielding. just a thought.
  3. so... started working with nitro on my most recent build and I can see why it is so popular. The stuff I got goes on great and is dry in 30mins w the az climate. I had some issues with particles landing on it so stripped it back with acetone last night... that was a breeze! I am probably going to use it a lot going fwd but have some questions... 1) I don't have a respirator... right now I'm spraying outside and holding my breath and backing off of it quickly but obviously this won't do long term... don't want to spend too much so wondering what are options for a respirator on the less-expensive side? 2) safety (I know, asking that while not wearing a respirator!) after stripping I had some paper towels with nitro and acetone on them. unraveled them to dry for 20 mins, then balled them up and put them in a double plastic bag with a cup of water and tossed them in the trash. What do you do with yours? what about storage? 3) as I mentioned i had issues with eyelashes and general dust from the az wind. can't spray this stuff in my garage (as I understand) because I have a gas waterheater (spark). what do you do to prevent dust bunnies from congregating on your finish? thanks in advance for all advice
  4. ADFinlayson

    First full build from scratch

    Looking good, is that Pine? I love the idea of building a semi hollow but getting all those wires in seems like a real pita. I think when I eventually have a go at one, it will probably end up with a cover on the back.
  5. spottydog

    First full build from scratch

    I'm sure all this spaghetti fits in the f hole somehow
  6. ADFinlayson

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Cool, I'll crack on with that. Thanks Andy, your advice on this has been a life saver. I owe you a beer
  7. Andyjr1515

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Yes. You will find that when the first very light coat dries some may show. The second light coat usually hides them. Sometimes it needs a third - but rarely.
  8. ADFinlayson

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    what about all these tiny scratches? they are from p2000 wet paper sanding. Should I just apply final coats on top of them?
  9. Andyjr1515

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Looks good to me.
  10. Andyjr1515

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Whether to leave that bit of lightening or not is personal choice. I've got the same on my second-most-expensive-I-ever-bought guitar and it's never bothered me.... But the buffing out of the swirls bothers me. Do remember that poly applied like this doesn't respond like many other finishes and you will always be bufging through to other previously buffed levels... Personally, I'd give it the last one or two "wiped with a varnish-laden but squeezed out cloth" I mention above and THAT will be the final gloss finish.
  11. ADFinlayson

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    So when I put a fresh coat of poly, the area between the pickups looks completely seamless. Which makes me think that area just doesn't have enough finish compared the the rest of the top and doesn't need restaining. AAARGH!
  12. ADFinlayson

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Generally it's looking a lot better. There are lots of minute scratches/swirl marks that I'm hoping will buff out. But the area between the pickups that I recently managed to sand through is not looking good at all. I'm wondering whether I should just sand this whole patch back to bare wood and attempt to restain etc or whether 3 sandthrough is enough to just sand it all off and start again with what I've learnt. Or final option, screw it just buff this and see how good I can get this looking, and take away lessons learnt.
  13. TreasureState

    Router Basics: Guide Bushings

    I love these write ups, thanks for posting these time and frustration savers in the shop!
  14. TreasureState

    Setting Up and Using the G&W Fret Miter Box

    Great article. If someone wanted to have a go at a DIY solution, here is one method for doing a shop made variation at home:
  15. +1 for Ace Hardware. Our store here in Helena, MT is known for stocking all of those hard to find bits.
  16. Another great tutorial, thank you!
  17. TreasureState

    Router Basics: Simple Soapbar Pickup Routing

    I am really getting a lot out of these how-to write ups. Thank you for taking the time to document them here!
  18. Andyjr1515

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    I'm sure it doesn't need that. And I'm sure you are pretty close!
  19. ADFinlayson

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    interesting, that would imply that I didn't knock back the sealer well enough with the wire will in some places and would explain a lot. If that is the case, I'm not sure what I can do to remedy that without sanding the whole lot down to nothing and starting again - Something I don't want to do because it seems like I'm so close
  20. Bizman62

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Oooh! The (not so) Secret Agent!
  21. Andyjr1515

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    You'll get there...don't fret Interesting comment at the end of the features of Chestnut Sanding Sealer here, by the way.... I wonder if this is what the bobbles are?
  22. ADFinlayson

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    I raised the grain and sanded off the fuzz several times before staining, and rubbed down the dried, stain stained surface several times with wire wool, then rubbed down again once it was sealed. It was definitely smooth, anyway I'm back to building up layers of poly because some twat sanded through the sealer again Losing the will to live
  23. Andyjr1515

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    I still wonder whether some of this is raised grain. I know some sanding sealers do raise the grain a lot. For unstained wood this is presumably a desirable effect. That is, sand smooth, apply sanding sealer that blocks moisture absorption and raises and stiffens the grain, then final light sand for a silky smooth sealed surface ready for the finishing coats?
  24. Bizman62

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    This subject didn't leave me overnight, so here's some thoughts. Notice that I'm by no means a Master of the dark Art of Finishing or anything like that, this is just logical thinking based on elementary public school physics... Great wisdom there. Any liquid becomes runnier when it's warm and obviously a runny fluid levels faster than stiff. Warming a rattle can servers another purpose as well: The gas within expands and causes higher pressure at the nozzle, thus lowering the viscosity of the lacquer and slamming each minuscule droplet flat on the surface with a higher velocity. Speaking about viscosity, the product used for finishing should be runny enough to fill any pores and gaps for good grip and level finish, yet it should be stiff enough not to run off the surface to be finished. Further, especially with instruments, the layers should be thin enough not to ruin the sound. Thus the instructions for a glass smooth resin finish done by pouring don't apply here. It's either spraying or wiping, and sanding in between and after that we have to do to achieve the results we want. Thinners are used for controlling the viscosity. Air is in a significant role in the drying process as is the evaporating surface versus thickness of the layer. When sprayed, the surface area of the lacquer is at the largest in its mist form right before hitting the surface. Thus, the farther away you spray, the drier the mist is on the guitar, in warm/dry conditions even more so. That may be one reason for the bobbles, another being the slow spraying speed and high viscosity caused by a cold rattle can. Yet another thing to consider: As we know raindrops need a dust particle to form. Just how much microscopic sanding dust do you have in the air of your workshop? Imagine every mist droplet of finish coming through the nozzle having a dust core! Bobbles... Short (hopefully) summary: warm finish runs easier through the nozzle and levels better on the surface high pressure lowers the viscosity of the finish as well a thick layer of stiff finish causes orange peel since the bubbles bursting on the surface don't level - add thinner or heat the lacquer for lower viscosity a longer spraying distance causes the finish partially harden during its flight through the air - bobbles a longer spraying distance also allows more dust to attach to the sprayed mist - more bobbles high temperature and dry air while spraying make the finish cure faster, partially even when it's still in the air as mist microscopic dust attached to minuscule lacquer mist droplets can cause issues So the recipe for a good sprayed finish is to use warmed lacquer sprayed at the right distance considering the temperature and humidity of the surrounding atmosphere. I may be terribly wrong here and there as my logic may fail. Please correct where necessary!
  25. The answer is yes! And the Fender tremolo arm fits the Hondo bridge better than the original Hondo Fame one that went missing!
  26. okay, my parcel tracking app tells me the new replacement tremolo arm was delivered while I was at work; this is where we see whether or not the Canada Post carrier is smarter than the Amazon one!
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