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  2. Hi, just a quick question. Whilst browsing eBay I have noticed quite a few pre radiused boards with slightly unusual radiuses such as 16 etc. I have noticed that the nut slot depth tends to follow the radius of the board in these listings. However most nuts that you buy are either flat (on the bottom I mean) or more standard radiuses such as 9.5. Out of curiosity I have looked for nuts with these more unusual radiuses and can’t find any. Could anyone shed any light on this? Is it just a matter of modifying a nut so that it fits nicely in the slot? I would imagine that this would be difficult with a brass nut. Anyway...thoughts? Whoops! A double post I notice. Apologies!
  3. Hi, just a quick question. Whilst browsing eBay I have noticed quite a few pre radiused boards with slightly unusual radiuses such as 16 etc. I have noticed that the nut slot depth tends to follow the radius of the board in these listings. However most nuts that you buy are either flat (on the bottom I mean) or more standard radiuses such as 9.5. Out of curiosity I have looked for nuts with these more unusual radiuses and can’t find any. Could anyone shed any light on this? Cheers mateys!
  4. Today
  5. ScottR

    KEA 2017 builds

    Don't you hate it when that happens? I think I can speak for all of us when I say it sucks when work gets in the way of something you'd rather be doing. If I wasn't so fond of eating, I'd quit. I'd say don't sweat it Luis, it will get done when it gets done....but I know that irresistible urge to drive to the finish line when you get that close....and how frustrating it is when there is something you must do instead. SR
  6. komodo

    Komodo's Metal Tele

    Slow but sure. The cavity covers are now to thickness, the neck and fb are rough cut and truss is installed. I used too much silicone in the channel. Pfft. It's taped off so there isn't any silicone on the glue surface, but I'm afraid whats in the channel might not dry as it's practically sealed in that rosewood. I'm debating pulling the truss, trying to clean out the slot and wrapping the truss with teflon tape to keep it quiet. It's a snuggish fit, just not quite as snug as my previous. Also when I decided to swap from 25.5 to 25" I had already shaped the end of the neck. Somehow I've ended up with a slightly longer head/neck join than I like visually. Maybe I;'m overthinking it. I'll look at it again tonight and see if I'm just being sensitive to it. The body just needs a jack and final sanding and I can start finishing.
  7. komodo

    Turner Model 1 replica

    I've always loved this guitar. How will you tackle the body radius?
  8. killemall8

    KEA 2017 builds

    Ive been slacking on this project so much. Its in the final stages but still cant get it finished off. Been super busy at work.
  9. Thanks! The guitar is slightly unbalanced, but with the strap it isn't bad at all. I left a pretty good chunk of wood on the heel end to compensate for the longer scale and give a little more beef on the body. The body is about the size of an SG, but much thicker.
  10. So I was hoping to create a custom pick guard and set of knobs for a couple friends. I have found online stores that sell plastic inserts for knobs, but I was wondering if anyone knows where I might get metal inserts vs plastic? I have looked all over the internet but can’t seem to find any. Does anyone have experience with the plastic inserts and do they work well? Thanks for any help or leads.
  11. nice job- thanks for sharing all the pics. I am curious though- with the small body and longer scale- any neck dive issues? how is the balance with a strap? I like smaller bodies but have found some basses and guitars I have played to be plagued by neck dive
  12. bokchoi77

    Bokchoi's Double Humbucker Tele

    Thanks! I quite like the look considering I wasn't going for anything in particular. Cheers! Yeah you're right on the fungus but I'm pretty sure it all vanishes by the time it's all dried out. I've not heard any safety notifications about it but I tend to treat any and all wood dust as deadly - I'm also an asthmatic so I use a respirator and keep dust under control as much as possible. Apparently the Tasmanian Blackwood I'm working with on my other project is the worst - at least so I'm told. Best avoid breathing anything that isn't air I'd say.
  13. It's mainly down to aesthetics. As long as there's enough lateral support on the nut to stop it coming unstuck when re-stringing or bending notes, the actual depth doesn't really matter that much
  14. ShatnersBassoon

    Bokchoi's Double Humbucker Tele

    Looking awesome! Funnily I was reading yesterday that the dark markings on Sassafras are caused by a fungus, and as such special precautions need to be taken with regards to safety. Either way, you have cut it all out now
  15. Loving this build, the guitar is turning out looking so natural, earthy and gorgeous.
  16. standard telecaster 'without any cuts' and with top-loading strings bridge and non-tiltback headstock .. you can use your design of the headstock or use the one i've designed but i think the body of the standard telecaster is among the most simple and good for a first project
  17. Yesterday
  18. I am a newb. I would like to build a new kind of travel guitar(I think). This would be based on a cut down acoustic bass neck with a wide fretboard, but shortened by lopping off the top few frets for a total string length of 24 inches. Steinberger bass tuners, electric pickups, headless design. What I am getting at is a bass/baritone uke idea (4 strings), heavy strings for a lower sound, more like the middle 4 of a six string., but shorter for travel, solid body. Am I pushing the physics too much. Any good design books out there? I am looking for that Dick Dale sound. Any help?
  19. You could build a pantograph at huge cost and make a bunch of 4:1 templates to reduced scaling and increase human tactile precision. Or do a rubbing.
  20. It's something new. The sides of the neck have a good amount of curve, but I liked the feel of the flat back as I was shaping it, so I thought I'd just go with it. It's completely different to anything I have now and very thick with the 1/4 inch fretboard. My Kyser capo barely fits around the neck.
  21. You could stick a piece of paper onto your MOP and do a pencil rubbing to get an exact duplicate of your edges. SR
  22. I wondered if you were going to keep the trapezoidal neck carve,,,,,I see you did. Is that new for this guitar or something you've come to prefer? SR
  23. Gah! There's still too much fettling involved. Scanning the MOP was a decent idea, but it seems that it's too reflective to give an accurate scan of the edges. I'm therefore having to fine tune the rout to such a degree that the letters are likely to end up crooked. Plan B - back-to-back masking tape with CA, stick the MOP down, cut it out with a scalpel, rout out the negative when the MOP and masking tape is removed, leaving the rest of the masking tape in place. I'm glad I tried it on a practice piece!
  24. I have used both, but these days I choose alcohol over water. Alcohol does not raise the grain like water and dries faster. SR
  25. Thanks! I was curious as well and I have plenty of standard guitars. It really does sound nice and boomy and I like the string tension on the longer scale. If I build another, I’ll probably scale up the body a little so it doesn’t feel so small.
  26. Same thing happened here, except everything reacts to it or leaves an imprint, even cloth or carpet if it let it sit for more than an hour. I removed the foam on one of my wall hangers and just hung it there by the tuners. Maybe in another month it’ll be okay. The foam has never reacted to my nitro LP, but the LP was already a year old when I bought it. Next time I’m using two-pack.
  27. The second test rout has given me confidence that the process is sound. I just need to rout a little bit over the edge to allow for the scanning inaccuracies. The main problem seems to be getting a nice balance between getting the label to stick enough to stay put when I'm sliding the router base over it, but not too much that it pulls wood fibres away when I peel it off afterwards. That, and the variability of wood grain in a natural material - the milling bit does want to wander. I might try one more test first
  28. I've not updated for a while as I've been busy over the summer, plus it's been too darned hot in the garage. Anyway as it's cooled down a bit and I'm off work with the tail end of a heavy cold, I've started dabbling with the headstock inlay. I've never done an inlay before, so it would make sense to do something simple? Nope, I don't take the easy path. I've got a nice scripty "Norris" made up. So scripty that it's nigh on impossible to do the usual stick it on and score round it method. So we're taking a different approach and I thought I'd share my thoughts. No photos in this update as I'd like to save that for the reveal later. Anyway, I originally designed the logo on my computer using Inkscape, then sent the design off to be cut. Great I thought. If I print out an address label with the design, I can stick it to my test piece, rout the black areas with the Dremel, Stewmac base and 1mm milling bit. The MOP should then drop in. The routing was fiddly, but pretty successful. Only... the MOP doesn't drop straight in. It's been made by a human being not a computer! The design is on the edge of what is possible to cut, and although he's done a fabulous job, it's not exact to the original design. So here are my next thoughts. I think the address label idea has legs. What I've done now is to line the actual MOP up as closely as possible on a print out of the design, then stick a piece of blue (for contrast) masking tape over the top to hold them in alignment. Next will be to scan that into the computer, tweak it to black on white in inkscape again, then print another label and have another go on my test piece. It's almost too easy! Edit: 25 minutes later and I've got a test print that looks crack on. I'm a computer wizard sometimes Now where did I put those labels...
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