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  1. Today
  2. flashriprock

    Upgrading my NK headless guitar

    For those looking to mod or custom build the NK Headless, I notice they recently started selling the guitar in a kit form now too on eBay.
  3. flashriprock

    Upgrading my NK headless guitar

    @D_stone, the picture you’re referring to (and pasted again here) was sent to me by guitar163 from eBay. I could tell the body was chambered when I got it, and I requested a picture to understand where. I can’t easily verify the illustration without poking a hole in mine, but based on the drawing I would not suggest trying to mod the body.
  4. Southpa

    Compound Radius fretboard

    I just posted in the CNC section of the forum. If it works as well as I hope, I should be in good for custom work. I couldn't imagine any other way to do compounds with any real accuracy so easily.
  5. Southpa

    Compound radius sanding blocks

    A buddy at work finally got around to making these for me. Was about a year and a half before he could swing this little "rabbit" between company jobs (shhhh, nuff said :)) But it was well worth the wait. The faces merge from 10" to 16" radius over a 20" length. 3" wide and the chambering was his idea to maintain ridgidity, ie. WILL NOT warp. I made the handles out of 1/2", NC bolts, he was nice enough to drill and tap those holes, and cut up oak broom handle. Gotta admit I work with some of the best talent in the country. I was only looking for one but he offered to do two so...what the hey! I can use one for coarse sanding and t'other for fine sanding. I'm looking forward to making accurate "true" radius compound fretboards.
  6. hooglebug

    Classic Sakura

    yes, THE wakefield
  7. Andyjr1515

    Classic Sakura

    I'm a bit late on this. First of all this is a STUNNINGLY impressive build. Secondly, I made my first knobs this year and found a uk source of 6mm id grub screw collets. As soon as I'm back on the desktop, I'll post the details (assuming 'wakefield' is THE wakefield ).
  8. Polymaker

    HSH Wiring Questions

    This is exactly how I figured it out the pickups were inverted. That's reassuring to hear. My friend gave me the pickups after fixing a phase issue on his guitar. He upgraded his pickups a long time ago with Seymour Duncans HB and a DiMarzio SC and position 2 & 4 were not sounding good. When I did the fix I did not understand at all how it was wired. Having fixed a phase issue on my own-made T type guitar (1SC 1HB), I assumed that I needed to invert the wiring on the middle pickup, but from reading recently about coil splitting and complex wiring I had second thoughts if it was the right problem/solution. Also thank you for all the information, it is very useful and much appreciated.
  9. hooglebug

    Classic Sakura

    in between world cup games (my wrists been so bad I've watched every single match, even the crap ones!) I did the other two. one of them needs a tiny bit more shaping on one side but its just sanding them now
  10. hooglebug

    Classic Sakura

    I tried to drill the centre hole, or rather expand the centre hole that was already there from gluing them up (I used a toothpick to hold them in place), but for whatever reason it drilled off centre, so I had to Dremel it instead. I pushed a dowel in there to give me something to hold onto, clamped the Dremel with a little sanding drum in a bench, and started shaping. so heres the first one roughly shaped.
  11. curtisa

    2 point trem installation

    I assume the body already has the routing for a tremolo block and spring cavity? The drawing on the axetec website already gives you the post spacing (51mm), which should be equidistant either side of the centreline of the guitar (ie, +/- 25.5mm). I'd probably do a trial installation on a piece of scrap to see where everything sits once the posts are in. Then you can measure the distance from the posts to the saddles to gauge a nominal offset relative to your scale length. After that it should be no different to installing a 6-screw Fender trem, of which there should be plenty of examples out there. The post inserts should only be a firm press fit. If you need a hammer to get them in, the drill holes are too small; another good reason to do a trial fitting before committing to the actual body.
  12. curtisa

    HSH Wiring Questions

    Yes, and if you look at photos of some variants of the Ibanez Jem (the guitar where I believe this switching pattern first originated), you will see the neck and bridge pickups with the screw slugs on opposite sides to allow this to happen. Normally in a HSH combo with the positions 2 & 4 Stratty 'quack', it's the middle single that is spec'ed as reverse wound/reverse polarity, as it would be for a regular Strat. It's easier and cheaper for the manufacturers to achieve this than reverse winding/reverse magnetising the two humbuckers on either side. That should mean that the coils you want to combine from each humbucker should have the opposite magnetic polarity compared with the middle single. Easily checked with a magnet - on the humbucker coils the magnet will be attracted to the slugs and on the single it will push away. Reversing the winding (if necessary) is then just a matter of swapping the solder connections on the single. Parallel is normally the way to do it, yes. But anything is possible given the right switch. No idea how it would sound; hotter/warmer than the equivalent parallel position 2 & 4 I would've thought? Series wiring on a Strat is fairly common mod, there appear the be a few Youtube videos out there that demonstrate what it sounds like.
  13. D_stone

    Upgrading my NK headless guitar

    I appreciate the information @flashriprock. I actually was able to get in touch with the seller today and they allowed me to order the one I wanted. It will be a bit before I receive it, but that gives plenty of time to plan. I have another question regarding one of your first post that showed a 2D drawing of the guitar body. Is it hollow all the way up to the side of the bridge? I was hoping to cut it in such a way that I could change the shape of the body to look more like that of a Grote brand headless guitar. This may not be possible if the body is hollow. Once again thanks.
  14. Polymaker

    HSH Wiring Questions

    Hi guys, I've been given an HSH pickups set not too long ago and while I already finished designing the guitar I'll used them on, I still haven't decided on how I'm going to wire-up the pups. For this build I want to understand what I'm doing instead of blindly following a wiring diagram. Electronics has been my nemesis for a very long time and now I decided to take the time to try and understand how it works. I already learnt quite a bit while finishing my pickup winder last month (I'll make a topic on that as soon as I get my new motor, I fried-it like a rookie when trying to measure the current ). Just today I finally solved the mystery of coil-splitting. I couldn't understand how the coil that stays on was different on the neck and bridge while the wiring is the same for each. Many diagrams do not show properly that the neck humbucker is flipped (or the bridge idk) so the coils are opposed to each other. Now to get back on topic, I have two questions regarding coil split: First, how do I figure out with which coil (adjustable or slug) the middle pickup will hum-cancel. I've read that it has to do with how the pickups is wired/wound and so it can vary from one band to another, Second, this one is a thought I had that I think may be crazy or may not work at all because I couldn't find anything on the internet. Normally, from what I understand, when combining the middle pickup with a coil-split humbucker, they are wired in parallel right? Is it possible to wire them in series to make a virtual humbucker? How would it sounds like? Is this crazy? For information the pickups are from an early 2000 Ibanez S model.
  15. Yesterday
  16. westhemann

    Misc stuff about life.This one goes to eleven...

    Anyone ever watch Fortitude on Amazon Prime? I really like it. Running through it a second time. It's got everything. Polar Bears, Metal, hot chicks, mysterious evil happenings... Sure beats the hell out of American tv these days.
  17. avengers63

    Bent side ES style

    Yep. The hinge should be basically the same as the LMII mold in the 1st pic. At least the function should be the same.
  18. hooglebug

    Classic Sakura

    well, I just glued some veneer to some ebony, cut a little slot in the veneer and glued a sliver of ebony binding into the slot for a marker, then cut some smaller circles and glued them on top and cut the knobs out so they look like liquorice allsorts. tomorrow i'll see if I can make a nice hole in the center to put the bits I've cut from some other knobs in so I can get them onto pots, and then at some point if my wrist can stand it i'll just try shaping them with a Dremel like I did the tuner buttons
  19. MiKro

    6 String Lap Steel.

    Well the Satin clear is a Bust, after a few coats it makes the Walnut look Plastic. So sanding back and going with semi-gloss. Pictures soon.!! mk
  20. ScottR

    Bent side ES style

    Are you planning to glue a second piece that does not have a hole in it to each half so they will be flush when the holes are lined up and the pin is in? SR
  21. avengers63

    Bent side ES style

    I needed to make the pieces of each side of the form first. Then I can glue the rest together offset. Here's what I'm trying to mimic. The sides are held together with a piece of PVC tubing. It took me waaaaaaay too long to think my way through the process. I'm smarter than this! The shadow is obscuring what I was wanting to show you.The bottom of the mold isn't rounded the way I want it. The transition is too sharp for my liking. I'll have to work it with some sandpaper later.
  22. flashriprock

    Upgrading my NK headless guitar

    Hi @D_stone. I'd suggest being persistent. I too had to email more than once sometimes, but I eventually received a response. I consciously tried to send my inquiries during their business hours in China so my messages were fresh. When I got a response, I'd pounce to keep the conversation going real-time. I tried to have contiguous dialogues when possible rather than stretching them across many days. English is a second language, and it's easy for things to get lost in translation. I also sent pictures with arrows and highlights to help, and I wasn't afraid to keep checking after a period of time. I got the feeling they were doing their best. Best of luck!
  23. ScottR

    Limba 6 Multiscale Filter'Tron

    I think the finish ended up outstanding! SR
  24. KempGuitars

    Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    Yes, definitely worth it when you see the end result Appreciate your views on the wiring passives and actives. I have had to set that aside for a few days as I need to get on with other work but I will speak to my client about the options.
  25. Yeah, just regular old glue stick.
  26. gpcustomguitars

    Classic Sakura

    Found the tool that gave me the idea!
  27. gpcustomguitars

    Classic Sakura

    Here's a more detailed drawing. I got the idea because the original tool is actually making tapered tenons, meaning the tenon flanges out from the constant size to full width of the material used. I'm not sure my quick geometry is completely correct for the cutter, as I'm writing from work, but I will try to do a mockup, using a piece of cardboard to determine the correct cutter shape. My first application worked fine when used at higher speeds, but that was thin plastic, so using lathe logic, larger diameter material=lower speed. I think this would work with some prep tinkering. So the knob would sort of plug the cutter when done. Drilling the hole trough in some 1" hardwood stock, reaming the first taper, and probably routing the last flange? A piece of mild steel would probably hold the edge long enough for a set of knobs/proof of concept.
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