Jump to content

Entry for September 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!
ENTER HERE

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Yesterday
  2. Damn Skippy you do!! LOL!!! BTW Wes did you get any of the rain? I'm Sure Scott did. We got nothing here in Dallas. MK
  3. Lately I've noticed a slight concern about myself getting old. Then again, it might be the cereals I've had for breakfast...
  4. I'm learning as I go that if you want to get old, you better be tough.
  5. I agree. This is definitely getting an upgrade. SR
  6. Just to keep this thread alive... Sanded away the couple of bumps and humps I found during the week. Isn't it funny how your fingers can't find them after a few hours of sanding? I would understand that for the right hand, but the left one isn't that active, only holding the guitar on the table so it doesn't wander all around and get all scratched on the bottom side. After having sanded the reshaped areas to 800 with Abranet, and finding deeper scratches to be take care of coarser grits and resanding to 800 I finally started reoiling the sanded parts with Crimson Penetrating Oil... Only to find more scratches! But as @Andyjr1515 said, when it looks OK, stop. So I left the few minor spots as is, hoping they'd go away with the oil. Also I didn't bother trying to level the couple of nicks on the bottom side. The roasted alder is so soft any dust particle on the table will make more of them anyway! I also reshaped the slanted edge of the headstock to reveal the 0.55 mm flamed birch veneer evenly:
  7. If you tried to explain "aberration" to me showing those images, I would not understand. Doesn't that mean that the finish is by no means too thick to kill the sound? Matt will be a happy fellow!
  8. I have learnt that, with my fairly crude method of finishing, the trick is - regardless of where it is against your original plan - when it looks OK, then STOP! The reason - which I am sure many of you will have had similar experiences - the "just one more coat" to try to remove a small aberration almost inevitably introduces many more So I live with small aberrations and don't try for perfection because - in my case - I know that is the road to misery And this - at least three coats sooner than I expected - is where I'm stopping: While these coats have been drying, I've turned my attention back to the neck. I did the obligatory full-size drawing of the headstock to see just how straight I could keep the string runs with the slightly larger headstock (the one thing on this build's predecessor I was never quite sure about was the small headstock. Completely straight string runs but just looked a little out of proportion to my eye). I realised that - with a minor slimming of the profile - I could restrict the angled strings just to the two middle ones): So that's where I set my tuner holes - I will now just cut back the headstock to the sharpie line to sort the visuals: So while the body is drying hard enough to handle properly, I will make this change and do the final sanding and finishing on the neck and fit a nut and magnet-secured trussrod cover. I'll also get rid of that PVA smear you can see above the truss rod chamber! Then it's assemble, string up, set up, final polish and pass across to Matt It should be in his capable hands in about two weeks.
  9. Well again we will try to get this damn hip surgery done. Now having to fulfill a bunch of crap for the cardiologist. I was cleared then things changed and had to cancel and now reschedule this surgery. F me, I just want to get back on my feet and build. Now have to do all the Pre-Ops again. LOL!!! mk
  10. Been there when all hell brakes loose. Throw it against the wall, scream and yell, toss in the trash. Then realize I can do something else with it. It happens, so take deep breaths, a good stiff drink and think it through. We have all been there and it will happen again. MK
  11. Last week
  12. An oldie I never entered in GOTM. Jet Jons Jag. Build here: SPECS: 3 piece Alder body Maple Neck, EIR Fretboard 34" scale Tele Headstock Jag bass redesign by my self. All cnc cut by me and finish work by hand. Finish was done with lacquer and 2 k clear coat. BadAss 2 bridge, EMG active pickups w/ three volumes and one tone control Hipshot tuners, 1 is a Drop D Banjo Frets, ( He likes them crisp as he places his fingers on the actual fret, the harmonics on this are a beast) Sorry I lost many pictures in a HD Crash, so this is the best I have at present, had to get the owner to get me some.. LOL!!! Pictures are of the owner John, One gigging in his Brian Adams Tribute band. This thing rocks. The first Bass I ever built. I let John finish sand the hand, arm and belly carve to suit him. He also wanted to spray the color. LOL!! Now it is one of the new models I will be using.
  13. Don't know about the pro's, but... I saw a pro answer that question on some video long ago. If memory serves me right, your idea is not far from what he suggested. One way would be to mask the neck and apply a pretty heavy layer of clear on the fretboard edge. Then you can freely paint the neck including the fretboard edge. When you've got the paint good enough, simply scrape the edge to reveal the clear and polish it the normal way.
  14. I'm building a guitar with a painted neck, and I'm worried about the transition between the neck and fretboard. I've done it (read: failed at it) a couple times before and had a fairly substantial ridge running along the neck where the masking tape was. This time I'm thinking about doing the base color, and throw on one coat of clear, and then remove the masking, gently sand the ridge, then mask only the front face of the fretboard and then clear the neck. Does anyone have any input on this? How do the 'pro's' do it? Any input would be much appreciated!
  15. Thanks @Bizman62 It's a 1/4" blade, I had a look at laser cutters a while back, the ones I saw that weren't crazy money stated that they wouldn't cut shell. I guess a scroll saw could also work well but the blade is going up and down like a hand saw.
  16. I think laser cutting inlay pieces is pretty common these days. SR
  17. You certainly have what it takes to make tutorial videos! Substituting the filing hiss of the inlay pieces with a longish musical piece indicated perfectly the time needed for such fine job. This time the volumes were again pretty nicely balanced. The music wasn't too loud for my sensitive(ish) ears. Cutting the inlays with the band saw raised a couple of questions. First, how fine was the blade? And second, do you think that could be done with a laser cutter? The small ones seem to be very inexpensive second hand.
  18. I had company last weekend, and got nothing done here. I was able to steal an hour here and there though, and have gotten this thing to its final shape and sanded to 400. It is ready to start the dye regimen and to fill the voids in the burl. So finishing officially begins tomorrow! SR
  19. thanks bud, much appreciated. It's a lovely looking wood but so hard on tools, hand cutting fret slots in it is not fun!
  20. The best way often is what feels the most comfortable to you. Sometimes changing or at least modifying your method might be advisable, though. A router against a fence is the power tool to use for straight lines. For smaller inlay work a Dremel type router is most likely best. Cutting the outlines with a very sharp scalpel or X-acto knife will keep the edges from tearing. You can also do the cutting with various size chisel. Again, cutting the outlines is important. With chisels you can use the cut-to-cut method: Cut the outline, then carve in an angle from the inside of the inlay so you get a half V groove with a vertical outer wall. Rinse and repeat until you're at the desired depth. Then simply carve the inside flush with the bottom of the groove. For that even a free hand Dremel router is accurate enough.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...