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  1. Today
  2. I have a hollow body with a spruce top and Rocklite Ebano binding. Binding looks great but after sanding, I now have black powder in the grain of the spruce top. I had applied some shellac prior to binding as I used CA glue and wanted to limit CA staining (which worked great). What can I do to get the black dust out of the top? I’m not ready to start finishing sanding yet. Do you think it will clear with finish sanding? I read one report about using naphtha. Can I use this to clean before applying finish? Right now it looks sad and I need reassurance it will clean off.
  3. Multiscale P Bass

    Your joke assisted me in my planning and drawing of my second build. That is a +1 in my book! Cheers, Chuck
  4. Yesterday
  5. Re-body of a Fender Rascal

    No - sorry...should have explained. This is going to be fully reversible. I was dubious at first this would work but am pretty sure now it's going to work just fine. The plate is flat and stable (it's been sitting loose on the headstock for the past few weeks from an unusually mild spell, to heavy rain and high humidity to (for us) very cold and snow back to mild with no problems). The tuner bushes and string tree will hold the plate securely so the double-sided tape is just to make sure the edges don't lift. They can't go anywhere even if they do... I know - madness. But this is Andyjr1515...
  6. Re-body of a Fender Rascal

    That sounds like you are not going to glue it on? SR
  7. Re-body of a Fender Rascal

    The headstock plate is too thin to risk adding an inlay but Mike and I thought it would be fun to have at least a little bit of the original Rascal colour showing : Once the plate has been sanded to the exact outline and had the finish applied, it will be secured at the edges with thin double-sided tape just to stop it lifting at any of the edges. The tuner bushes and string tree will do the main work.
  8. Multiscale P Bass

    I was just making a joke...
  9. Chinaberry Six

    Finally got to use my new bandsaw! The 5mm blade worked okay, but I will definitely want to get the 3mm blade for this kind of work ... took some doing inside the horns. This is a hobby-level machine, but so much nicer than using a handsaw or jigsaw. This Chinaberry apparently not what many North Americans are used to. I've had two people tell me they would have never considered this wood for a guitar, and handed them my two basses ... they were surprised they were not Balsa-soft and dead when tapped. This piece is also quite sturdy ... about the same weight as a light piece of African Mahogany, and makes a nice, healthy, lively sound when knocked on. By the way, I did say before that this was a BIG slab of wood, right? It was a failure as a table, with a full-length, crooked pith right down the middle. But I was (barely) able to squeeze three blanks out of it, and have enough straight stock for two necks ... and it seems pretty stable. One pic is lightly sanded, the other is with a bit of white gasoline (naphtha) wiped on ... very red or pink! Come to think of it, I think the auction blurb mentioned that.
  10. Chinaberry Six

    Whatever it is, it looks a lovely piece of wood
  11. Multiscale P Bass

    The positioning of the pickup determines which overtones are predominant in the sound, with many manufacturers having their own "sweet spot". I think most people making multi-scales align the pickup with a virtual fret so as to get the same balance of overtones across the strings. However a P pickup is split, so you would never get exactly the same overtones anyway. Plus of course the overtones change as you fret a string. IMHO I think it mainly comes down to aesthetics: do you prefer the look of it at an angle or perpendicular? I doubt that you'd notice a massive difference in tone
  12. Misc stuff about life.This one goes to eleven...

    I got all the sides of the house level now. Tomorrow I have to put up plastic to protect my work from possible rain this weekend. Then I have to do the hard part. I have to crawl under the middle of the house and put extra supports under there. Think I'm going to make a sled to pull behind me with blocks on it.
  13. Chinaberry Six

    Talked with my daughter today, and gave her a few choices ... Thin solid body, sculpted, contoured and "stratified," or hollowed out and capped "a la thinline." She chose the latter, so hauled out this piece of wood I found buried in a pile. Took a while to find out what it was advertised as when I picked it up on auction ... seller called it "nikki" (cinnamomum okinawense) which is Japanese for Cinnamon. Camphor is also of the genus cinnamomum, but this doesn't look like any Camphor Laurel I can find. http://www.wood-database.com/camphor/ I suppose I will know what it is when I resaw it ... both should have a very distinct fragrance!
  14. Multiscale P Bass

    Norris, stupid question here, but is there any difference between mounting the pickups perpendicular compared to angled? My second build (in my head - still planning) is a 5-string multi-scale and that was one of the items for me to research. Cheers, Chuck
  15. Last week
  16. Thank you kind sir. I followed the link @Norris posted and read that: "Etching is the moment the signature ‘Damascus’ markings become visible, as a solution of acid salts reveals the pattern and as the story of its making." I never realized that. I always assumed the folding and layering left the visible patterns. I suppose this means that the markings could all be sanded off (which I also did not realize) and likewise the honed edge could be etched again and the markings would become visible again. I doubt that would be good for the razor sharp edge I put on it though. SR
  17. That's because the etching is done before the sharpening, I believe... got addicted to watch videos from blacksmiths in youtube. Really fascinating stuff, some Damascus knives are made with more than 1000 layers. Forgot to say... that handle you made is gorgeous.
  18. OK - I'm going to bank on that everyone is far too busy with Christmas preparations to enter this so, being the only entry, I might win It's another go with my previous entry 'Impish Challenge' This is the 6-string electric, built for Tim (whose name tag on another forum is impmann and hence the name). Tim took ownership of it last week and he is, in his own words 'over the moon'. He loves it I am a hobby builder with my first full build around 5 years ago. More recently, I have started taking on bass and guitar commissions in addition to building for my own use and fellow band-members. After a series of bass builds, it has been nice to go back to a 6-string build. Tim's spec / my result (as usual with my builds, sometimes two different things) was: 25.5" scale, 6-string Style to have passing nod to Alembic's wonderful '80's six stringers Low weight, chambered (finished weight 6lb 12oz) Camphor Laurel top; Sapele back; Wenge demarcation veneer Maple/purpleheart/mahogany/purpleheart/maple neck; figured ebony fretboard Alegree Custom stacked P90's Schaller Hannes piezo bridge Schaller 'flagShip' piezo/magnetic mixer-preamp Magnetic control chamber and trussrod covers The build diary is here. Here are some pictures: And here are some (poorly played) sound clips: Magnetic only: mid; neck; bridge Piezo only Piezo / Magnetic mix: mid; neck; bridge Thanks for looking, folks Andy
  19. Good instructor or not, you listened and applied what was on offer. It makes all of the difference in the world.
  20. Kemp Guitars UK Build Thread #2

    A proper weapon.
  21. Re-body of a Fender Rascal

    This is almost complete. It also has given me a chance to try an A/B comparison of Tru-oil with the Osmo Polyx 3044 that some of you will remember I used for the 'white wood' Psilos bass. The 3044 version is intended for white and light woods and aims to minimise the yellowing effect of most finishes. It worked well for the Psilos: ...but how well would it work on a dark wood like walnut? Mike wanted me to try The great thing, however, is that - because I use a tru-oil slurry and buff now as a sealing and filling process before sanding it all off to then apply the intended finish coats, I could do an absolute A/B comparison of Tru-Oil vs Osmo Polyx 3044. And here it is: A/B Comparison of Tru-Oil vs Osmo Polyx 3044 In both cases, the body has has a single application of oil, slurried with 400 grit wet and dry and then immediately wiped off Tru Oil: Once fully dry. This was all sanded off, leaving the body in the same pre-oil state. Osmo Polyx 3044: Quite different - especially in the darker figuring areas where the tru-oil (and water does the same) turns the figuring grey to almost black. The Osmo, on the other hand, retains the light brown. The lighting is about the same in both shots. If it's a bright enough day tomorrow, I'll repeat the shot with the same background as the tru-oil - it actually shows the contrast even more. In real life it looks lovely. Also, once it's had a few more slurry and buff coats, the silky satin feel has to be experienced to be believed Here's the back with the Osmo - DON'T PANIC - THE DISTORTION IS THE CAMERA LENS (trust me - everything is straight and true! Honest ) The edges of the hatches still need tidying up but this is basically how they will look: The matching up of the sapele grain and the walnut grain, by the way, is total coincidence... And this is the 'fan who is getting too up close and personal' 's view: I really like this product. Super easy to apply and, well, it works!
  22. I was a little surprised that the layers were not visible on the honed part of the blade. I assume that's normal.... SR
  23. We've got a show over here called "Forged in Fire" on the History Channel that features 4 bladesmiths competing to make knives or swords....the final two compete to make historical weapons, that often require them to make folded steel first. Fascinating stuff. I have always wanted a Damascus bladed knife and still don't have one. I suppose I should get a kit for myself. SR
  24. There was a program on BBC4 a while back that was fascinating - possibly helped by a complete lack of dumbed down dialogue, just the craftsman at work making a damascus knife http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/articles/3vfQq8Lrwy4rhgYLVrXBPpS/how-artist-blacksmith-and-bladesmith-owen-bush-forges-a-modern-damascus-knife Edit: It's still on iPlayer for fellow UKers Lovely work on the handle @ScottR
  25. Chinaberry Six

    Not a lot set for this build yet, except the name, the body wood (unless it has a cap) and the other Padauk Mt. Fuji neck from my Limba 6 build. Pretty good chance that this one will be carried to Hawaii for my daughter. More details as the vision matures. Meanwhile ...
  26. PRS-like project(s)

    Thanks, I'll mix a batch when it gets warmer. In the meanwhile, I tested the waterbased dye on a piece of headstock offcuts and it seems OK. The paper says to apply 2 coats, so I'll repeat after installing the dots, but I did the fretboard and it looks promising. Also, started the MOP logo. I almost always use the vice to cut inlays now, it prevents breaks and is much more comfortable to hold. Works great for a few simple things I do. I'll try to route/glue in the logo today, not enough time yesterday, and then I'll stain the headstock too. 90 by Goran P, on Flickr 91 by Goran P, on Flickr 92 by Goran P, on Flickr 93 by Goran P, on Flickr 94 by Goran P, on Flickr 95 by Goran P, on Flickr 96 by Goran P, on Flickr
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