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  1. Today
  2. First use of a power tool on this project today, the jigsaw came out to do the initial trim down of the neck. Jigsaw away again, out with the files to take it a bit closer to the lines and levelled off Then onto the back with a rasp to do some shaping needs a lot more yet, but was still waiting on the Shinto... Which finally arrived tonight should be quicker on the shaping tomorrow.
  3. We thought along the exact same lines! I've still got the templates. I might make one more if I'm able, and put a guitar stand on one side. They're a great height for playing as well.
  4. Hello everyone, I wanted to share a project that I'm working on... PRS inspired/style Travel Size guitar build. Disclaimer: I'm new to guitar building and mods... So, will likely be asking around for advice for learning and lurking around all the cool projects, gear, and axes here. Anyhow, inspiration for my project is my own CU22 model, though, it'll be more like a CE type (with bolt-on neck). Of a travel size, the body portion is essentially the size of a regular sheet a paper, at 8.5"W x 11.75"L. The neck will feature 24 frets at 25.5" scale length. Attached are some pics to share. And some progress videos as well Part 1: https://youtu.be/TpcWkaX64eg Part 2: https://youtu.be/rmdxkFaUScM In the next steps, I plan on setting the neck angle break and establishing the neck plane. I'll be routing all of the cavities. First time going through these steps... so am a bit nervous to not wreck the nice wood I have. I appreciate any tips/constructive comments you all might have. thanks for viewing! -Tony
  5. A nice stool indeed! I'd like to have one built for playing guitar in a sitting position...
  6. You do make some quality furniture. SR
  7. I whipped together a couple of Stickley/Greene & Greene style stools for the house. Nothing amazing; Sapele and Ebony with a Tru-Oil finish. The upholstery is a traditional style of slip cushion made over a Birch frame, Jute webbing, foam padding, batting, muslin cover and finally a really nice semi-aniline leather over the top. This was all tensioned so the seat feels firm with consistency rather than floppy and empty. Really pleased with how the precise joinery and detailing came together with light 2,5° angles, curves and planes.
  8. Hmm, I have no experience with an LVLP....I was ready to give advice for an HVLP. My only suggestion would be to slow down the speed of your pass across the body and maybe move the nozzle closer to the body at the same time. This will of course give you narrower spray bands. Low volume ought to make overlapping more forgiving as well as letting you get a wet coat with less chance of runs, assuming you can force yourself to make a slow enough pass. SR
  9. Actually I am mistaken, my spray gun is not a HVLP, its an LVLP...and after Googling more and more I found one guy who recommends them. So you get people recommending things from one end of the scale to the other! What I find is it sprays the neck and edges of the body okay but does not seem to put out enough for top and back. It has a 1.4mm tip and I'm contemplating going up but how far? The shop where I get my stuff has 1.6 and 2.0mm in stock, but should I just get a HVLP?
  10. It just occurred to me I did something similar, I put clear plastic tubing on my guitar stand. It originally had rubber and it had perished over the years
  11. Not sure if it would. They all work fine as is though, both the ones with and without the recess. I presume you mean the washers and not the recesses? The former are functional, so yes. The rest was just me on a Saturday morning, likely with a hangover and wanting to see something nice come out of my work that day Edges of the headstock sanded. Still a bit more work to do, however this will stand for the moment. I can still see some slightly darker areas of end grain that need care. I don't think spraying DNA over my DEROS was a good idea. That TPE covering will react poorly with alcohol....ooops....
  12. My thought was it might help keep the bobbin square to the shaft under pressure. A tight fit of the shaft in the bobbin goes the furthest, of course but there will be some wear with use. SR
  13. There's a bit of parallax going on here, however that measures 17,5mm. I'll take it. Block sanding the back of the headstock and finishing the front will take a few more tenths from that anyway. As long as we're this side of 18mm then it's all good.
  14. It was just one of those whimsical things. No function that I can recall....
  15. Hey thank you so much! Feels great to share my hobby with the community! It is like I made myself a gift and I love it! Waiting for those Steinbergers to arrive, they should be here by Thursday. Great customer service by Stew Mac , I just have to say! They will be gold , everything else is on backorder, but I guess I can change them to nickel in the future, when/ if things get a little better with the planet. I sure regret the title of this thread, requesting permission to change it... Thank you very much! Glad you guys dig it! I do, too! I had my worries with the Sm2b being ceramic and all, but the sound is right there and I am very pleasantly surprised! Balances very well with the neck p90, too! That is a 50s style Alnico II p90 by Nick Silver pickups here in Greece, measuring at just 7.4 Kohm, but its position helps it get much ooomph , definition and sparkle, with the right amount of warmth! Delicious. I will make a new vid when the right tuners arrive to show the middle surf-tastic position and some of the clean tones. Pulling the bigsby a little bit away from the usual trem/ tailpiece “normal” position, helps a lot with the break angle and the tuning stability! I dare say it is as enjoyable and smooth as the one on my 1966 Gretsch 6120! You can see in the vid how much I enjoy using it!!
  16. Yes I imagine polyester would be difficult to sew, and I've never done anything like that, just hems on jeans etc
  17. The insets with washers are a nice touch on the violin clamps. SR
  18. That's an outstanding example of bookmatching. That gorgeous quilt doesn't hurt anything either. SR
  19. Sounds great, looks beautiful. I love that neck pickup sound. The bridge is just pure firebird. Johnny Winter eat your heart out!
  20. I have confidence sewing after making a festival flag last year I made the "rewind" pennant, my wife and a friend made the audio cassette flag. After coping with polyester slipping and wriggling all over the place, denim is a doddle!
  21. Wow you're more domesticated than me! LOL
  22. The headstock veneer is being fitted with hide glue since the "grab" of this is more desirable than PVAc. It's currently sat tacked, so once the last of the potential for slip disappears it gets clamped. Liquid hide glue is very nice in this respect, plus when working with woods at veneer thicknesses with open pore structures there's far less likelihood of glue bleeding through. With PVAc this can be disastrous for finishing when it soaks into the wood itself, whilst hide glue scrapes cleanly off surfaces, and is compatible with most finishes.
  23. Uneventful! So this was the setup for re-thicknessing the headplate. Two lengths of straight wood of known equal dimension as rails plus the workpiece stuck with small tabs of DST. Plywood was wiped clean of dust, as was the wood. I switched to this base for the router, fitted with a 25mm diameter cutter. Depth was initially set so the cutter rested on the workpiece, then locked off. This is to do a skim pass to check that the bed is flat. The rails were set to be "naturally self limiting" as the handles prevent movement beyond the extremes of the workpiece. A couple of passes brings the plate down to about 1.5mm (give or take a couple of tenths). A quick two second blast with 150 grit doesn't do any harm. ....back to the 6mm cutter and 3/8" OD bushing, and we have ourself an outline and truss rod access cut.
  24. The cavity covers on the bass consist of two halves; one covers the electronics that never really need to be accessed, and the other is for battery replacement. I'm planning on making these from 2-3mm sheet brass which can be cut on a router....carefully. The problem herein is that brass is conductive, and a bit of a risk if it gets into an upended router's internal gubbins. On that basis, I will do my best to use somebody else's router. This makes sense.
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