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  1. Today
  2. 2.5itim

    Not Quite A Tele...

    That Osage orange looks great! There’s tons of it around here in Oklahoma, I need to give it a try.
  3. 2.5itim

    2.5itim’s 2018? Builds

    Somewhat busy weekend, yesterday was spent mostly on the ta28 aquaburst although I don’t really have anything to show pics wise. Frets leveled using my katana (I freaking love this thing!), frets crowned, polished, dressed. Nut cut to height, and got everything assembled. I’m still waiting on my pickups to come in (should be here tomorrow) and then I can get this guy finished. I was contacted last week by a customer who wants a ta28 but he wants the leg cut out from the new model I’ve been working on. I really couldn’t imagine it in my head but I told him I’d give it a try. We are still working out specs but as of right now it’s sapele body, roasted maple neck, honey roasted Birdseye fretboard, hipshot tuners, hipshot fixed bridge, neck pickup only no bridge pickup, and he wants the body finished in Pelham blue. So I swung by my local wood supplier and he happened to have some sapele 15” wide so I get to do it in a 1 piece body. So today I got most of the body knocked out.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Andyjr1515

    Not Quite A Tele...

  6. Today I started the fretwork and started working on the body, When cleaning and inspecting the slots I noticed that one of side inlays protruded quiet a bit. A scalpel solved this though. The slots were quiet wide for the chosen fret and could be put in easily. Therefore I decided to use CA glue for the first insertion. It sat like a rock but left a complete mess behind. Then, the Wagner 9662 stainless frets came pre-cut which was quiet a horror story. They were super hard to bend to a decent radius. I tried using a coffee cup for a longer length of another fret wire I had bought and that was quiet easy. However, I wanted the stainless ones. As it is a Gibson style fretboard, the fret has to have its tang nipped a bit in order to fit within the side inlays. I had no cutter available that could do such a precision cut. I wanted to get this done today, so did the tang cut with a bench grinder instead. This is off course not optimal. I tried contact glue to fasten the frets, not sure if it a good idea. Due to the radius of the frets being all skewed, many frets sat in proud. It started to turn out like quiet a hack job. The fretboard was actually quiet nice I would say, so I think reasons went south are mainly the fretwire radius issue. Why would they sell pre-cut straight fret-wire? And how do people use this? With frets popping up here and there, I was considering ripping it all off and starting over. But, in the end I thought I might as well finish the horror just to get to try fret leveling- and dressing. After having practiced that, I could order new frets if need be (and I guess so). For the frets to sit well enough and stop being so darn proud I laser cut a piece of plastic with a 12" inch radius an to press down the frets and glue them with CA. A thin CA should be used I learned, then capillary force wicks the glue in. This will not be neat or pretty, but hopefully hold well enough to practice doing the rest of the fret job. I tried sanding the body and is quiet a particular wood to work with. It is extremely soft so it is easy to shape. However, it throws almost as many splinters as dust particles even when sanding it with a fine grit. My idea was to dye or stain it, with a nice flat surface underneath. However, I do not know anymore. It is so hard to get this surface smooth. It is not at all like carpentry wood used for for instance crown molding and such. The easiest (and perhaps only way) to get it smooth would probably be using some filler and painting the whole thing over. Before leaving, I tried staining the back of it black. It looks really gritty, and maybe this is the way to go here. A guitar that is made to gritty and stands out for that, looks better than a guitar that was intended to look fancy but doesn't quiet reach all the way. Tomorrow I will experiment with torching the upper and, and applying som read stain. If it turns out poorly, I really think I'll just stain the whole thing black and put some oil or clear coat on it. Todays summary A proper, even, pre-bend of the fret wire is important. Pre-cut straight frets are problematic. The Thomann reviews I am reading afterwards seem to confirm this. I should get a pipette for the superglue, and probably a better end-cutter. Not sure if even the best end cutter would tackle the tang of a stainless steel fret well though. A fretboard without lateral inlays would make the fretjob way easier. Tomorrow I will do fret dressing. Quiet worried here. As the tang doesn't go all the way out to the sides on this type of neck I see a bigger risk of the frets loosening up by their ends. We'll see how it goes :)
  7. ScottR

    Not Quite A Tele...

    It turns out that I enjoyed that so much I just let it drag on, and then it got cold and rainy and I decided to save the neck set for next weekend. I'm pretty much building this one because I like to and I can....and for no other reason, so why not? This osage orange's grain patterns look so cool from the quatersawn and end grain view. And it feels silky to the touch. I think I may have found a new favorite neck material. SR
  8. ScottR

    Not Quite A Tele...

    I started this weekend thinking I'd carve my initials into the volute and then set the neck. Because setting the neck would pretty much shut me down for the weekend waiting for the glue to dry, I took my time and carved slowly and then sanded the neck and headstock up to 400. I figured that would get me to glue up nicely and I'd call it a weekend. SR
  9. ScottR

    Need a nitro lacquer refresher

    I usually spray till the quart is nearly gone. I typically thin about 20%-25% till the last few coats which are thinned 50%. And typically three coats a day. SR
  10. My current build is coming along nicely and I am getting close to painting. I am going to spray on nitro lacquer but haven't used it in so long there are a couple things I can't remember and didn't find in the search. I will be spraying with an HVLP gun, roughly how much should I thin it by? The other part I can't remember is how many coats to lay down? I plan to spray 3 coats the first day and give it a quick flattening, spray 3 coats the next day and another flattening if needed and 3 more coats the last day. I am not sure with nitro though if that'll give me enough build up? Thanks,
  11. ScottR

    BEER! What's in your fridge?

    Creature Comforts The Silent World Black Lager.Like everything from Creature, this is delicious.....for a lager. And the looks certainly are deceptive. It tastes like a crisp lager. I don't drink much lager these days... From Alpine, Nelson. Nelson is a very smooth mild hop from New Zealand that is very tasty. This beer is the same. It has a mellow yet robust flavor, with only a mild bitterness. Wild Leap, Alpha Extraction vol.3. This double IPA is hazy, juicy, fruity and delicious. New Orthodox M-43 N.E. India Pale Ale. This stuff is amazingly good. A serious hop bomb done New England style. What makes it even better for me is that it has all the hazy juiciness of the NE style plus a nice bitterness kicker that is normally missing from that style. Seriously good stuff! And finally, Hoppin' Frog Borris the Crusher Oatmeal Imperial Stout. This is a really good stout. There is a bit of booze present, and if one drinks an entire bomber....one definitely is in the mood for more. SR
  12. StevenStanleyBayes

    Guitar Pick Materials

    Help the Pick : In some cases, with some picks, one may increase the speed by twisting the picking hand ( right hand is assumed ) to upper and slightly to the right.
  13. StevenStanleyBayes

    Guitar Pick Materials

    Who Uses What : 1. Yngwie Malmsteen : http://pickingpower.com/yngwie-malmsteen-guitar-pick-brand-gauge/ Dunlop Delrin 500 1.5mm 2. Eddie Van Halen : http://www.evhgear.com/news/2014/01/ask-eddie-all-about-the-picks/ 0.6mm Nylon < 0.6mm in the 80's Brass and Copper before 3. Steven Vai : http://www.vai.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18112 Ibanez Steven Vai Signature pick, 1.0mm Heavy 4. Angus Young : https://www.guitarworld.com/artists/let-there-be-rock-acdc-lead-guitarist-angus-young-picking-hard Fender Extra Heavy Picks with a lot of plastic in them? 5. Jimmy Page : http://www.feelnumb.com/2011/07/17/what-guitar-pick-does-jimmy-page-use/ Dunlop Herco Flex 75 Nylon Pick 6. Ritchie Blackmore : https://www.thehighwaystar.com/interviews/blackmore/guitarplayer/guitarplay4.html Tortoise Shell, custom shape, one side squared, the other, pointed. “ What kind of picks and strings do you use? I use tortoiseshell picks, one end squared, one end pointed. I have them specially made for me because you can't get them at all. I use tortoiseshell because plastic is too soft; I like them brick hard. I've used this shape ever since I was 11, and I just cannot play with those round things everybody plays with, because when you jump a string you tend to hit the other string on the way. With this pick you can be more nimble. I use Picato strings; I've always used them. They're the best; Eric Clapton turned me on to these. He's now using Fender - I don't know why. Why Ernie Ball has the monopoly on strings I'll never know. The gauges I use are .010, .011, .014, .026, .036 and .042. “
  14. Last week
  15. Went to town today, fist literally and then figuratively. Starting out, I bought loads of paint, sand paper and various tools, Construction then started at CRF (Chalmers Robotics Society), which is basically a maker space here in Gothenburg. Using scrap wood and a clamp, I built myself prototype for a neck vice. The clamp was fastened by drilling holes in it and screwing it in place. Then I clamped the thing to the bench. It turns out it worked great ! I do not think I will look for another solution actually. I grinded town the top of a pair a cheap end cutter for a fret removal tool. It worked like a charm! Briefly heating using a soldering iron and the frets just jumped off the wood. Having proper tools is ever so important. I also removed the nut by gently heating it with a heat gun and bending underneath. I was really careful as to not make the fretboard jump off. The nut got quiet damaged, but I bought a few set of extras when ordering the guitar. Then I checked my aluminium beams, intended for fretboard leveling. At the time of collecting them, I didn't have ruler long enough around. When controlling them towards a ruler today, I realized one of the beams was not fit for the task. The other had a tolerance absolute maximum 0.15 m.m. which perhaps is okey within the context? After all, 0.15 m.m. is worst case, and the beam is moved around so errors should tend to average out. The fretboard seemed to get straighter than the beam anyway so. Before starting, I noticed that not even maxing the truss rod would set the neck straight. So I set it around halfway and decided sanding the fretboard straight from there. That way I should still have some headroom for truss rod adjustments later on. The truss rod had a 4mm allen screw head, that for some reason was quiet hard to insert the wrench in. Also, I can hear the truss rod rattling inside, which I do not think will affect the sound at all but I reckon this is why people put epoxy around the truss rod. After getting it fairly straight, I went over it with the Hosco gridning block to get the radius right, Seen in the picture is a regular sand paper, but I soon switched to a self-adhesive one. Biltema in Sweden sells these, and they were great! I used them both on the radius blocks and the beam and saw dust just flew off. Generally I went 80-320 on the grits. For a final, I sanded the fretboard using 400 paper in circular motions to remove and parallell lines by the aluminium beam. This is the max I would go in grit, I do not want a glossy fretboard. I made sure to sand the edges real smooth. This is a big deal I think, I really do not like guitars with sharp edges. Overall I think the fretboard feels absolutely great. Fortunately, I think it has improved a lot since when starting out. I was concerned that I would have to go over the neck shape, but it is decent I would say. Also, it is already lacquered with some satin cellulose that I actually like. Over the length of the fretboard I now have a tolerance of around 0.05 m.m. I do not know if this is good enough, but from just ocular inspection using a ruler I think it looks really fine. Radius tolerance is a bit harder to measure. Considering the current tool tolerances, I do not know if I can get any better than this precision. On purpose, I let fret 18-ish and further slope a bit downwards slightly slightly towards the bridge, as these frets become more or less immune to truss rod adjustments. I did this by applying uneven pressure with the neck shaping block. Lessons learned today: Using parallel, controlled and calm movements with the radius block and the leveling beam caused the best results. There is no hurry, dust will be flying anyway if the sand papers are good. A radius shaped beam a bit longer than the fretboard would probably be ideal but they are expensive, especially if you want one for each radius you like. Brush off dust from the sand papers using a paint brush once in a while. After a while, quiet a lot of dust will stick to it. I bought a cheap "under-string" fretboard radius gauge from eBay, and it is not good for this job. For this I would rather go for a thicker, high precision gauge plate. I might laser cut this myself. A profile gauge is great for controlling radius consistency. The vice solution I made works great. It feels like a better and simpler approach than clamping at the ends, risking a neck bow. Grinding a cheap end cutter straight worked great for fret removal, definitely a keeper. This is loads of fun Even if the end result turns out medium crappy, I have at least learned a lot and had a great time. Tomorrow I will see if the frets slots are still deep enough for a fret job. I sure hope so, because I haven't got a fret slot cutter yet. Getting real excited now
  16. StevenStanleyBayes

    Guitar Pick Materials

    Also, I have been playing with Fender Tru Shell Extre Heavy ( modified ) and Gravity Picks Acrylic Sunrise 1.5mm ( modified ). 1. Gravity Acrylic Pick ( Modified ) The two picks perform excellently. The acrylic pick needed a lot of playing to achieve fast playability and is an ultra fast pick thereafter. 2. Fender Tru Shell Pick ( Modified ) The Fender pick is more interesting. I am not sure whether I am right or wrong, but, after modification, the pick has to stay for a while to “ harden “. Because the pick is made of proteins, this may be true. Similar to other organic materials, say, bread. When bread stays for a long while, bread hardens. This MAY BE the case with the pick too. Anyway, the pick has been made to replicate the real tortoise shell pick which is now illegal. I have never seen a real tortoise shell pick, but, there is a possibility these were not very fast and were slightly scratchy on the string and, thus, not ultra fast. The Fender pick is super fast, but, I do not know whether this has been the goal of Fender. Again, the main goal of Fender MAY have been to replicate the original tortoise shell pick with all the advantages AND disadvantages and not to make a faster pick than the original.
  17. StevenStanleyBayes

    Guitar Pick Materials

    1. The Hardest Wood I Can Find I am exceptionally proud to inform you I have found African ( Gaboon ) Ebony wood and I have made a couple of Ebony picks. I need to test these picks more, but, the first impression is these picks are ultra fast, yet, a bit scratchy, i. e., abrasive. The picks are not scratchy when sanded often with a succession of 1000, 2000 and 3000 grid paper or sponge. There is zing but not as high as metal, normal as with most any pick except some. African ( Gaboon ) Ebony is extremely hard, one of the hardest woods on the planet. Best be cut with hacksaw for metals and is pretty much the same as metal. The wood can be easily split with a chisel. An important consideration is to use the grain of the wood throughout the length of the wood. In other words, the grain must run from the handle of the pick towards the tip of the pick. A good idea is to make a pick in the opposite of the normal way, i. e., the grain runs from side to side, just to find what happens. African ( Gaboon ) Ebony has a hardness of 3080 on the Janka scale which is one of the highest. Ebony is so dense and heavy, so the wood sinks in water. Ebony was used by the British navy to protect the side of their ships from cannon fire which bounces back unable to penetrate through th hard wood. I have also found a harder wood : Pink Ivory Wood which has a Janka hardness of 3250. I have not yet purchased and tried this wood. 2. Home Made Acrylic and Polycarbonate To find these materials is extremely high. Yet, there are some possibilities : work glasses and, mainly, magnifying lenses can be made of extremely clear acrylic or polycarbonate. Acrylic magnifying lenses are sold in St. Michaels. All of these are supposed to be very hard but not brittle and scratch resistant. Yet, clarity is the main parameter. This is why, I am unhappy, the lenses may have been built for clarity and not for hardness. Also, the manufacturers may need to make them not as hard to avoid a possible brittleness. Yet, a good idea may be to cut an acrylic magnifying lens and try to make picks thereof. The pick must be extremely well polished after made. The successive grids may be 1000, 2000, 3000 and much more, such as 5000. Real wool may need to be used.
  18. ShatnersBassoon

    A random thought regarding through neck construction

    Just realised a silly oversight, doing it this way I would either have to recess the neck at the extended area (not an big obstacle) in order to make it flush with the body, or simply have the neck pocket slightly deeper with the fretboard plush to the body (although by doing it this way I would need a very low profile bridge).
  19. I have personally traveled on boat along the amazon river, experiencing the astonishing beauty of it. Also, I experienced firsthand how the rain forest is treated ever so brutally. And it is not just one persons observation. Around 80% of all mahogany from for instance Honduras and Peru are expected to being logged illegally, according to various sources. Rosewood is protected for really good reasons. Just google for yourself. I do not want to contribute to that. This fact made my planned purchase of a new guitar a bit harder. A guitar without any endangered wood basically limits me too a Fender and some copycats of it. And that Fender-ish guitar should rather have humbuckers, large jumbofrets and a dark fretboard, not being rosewood or any other non-sustainable wood. That basically limited me to building my own guitar. I grew up on a farm in Sweden and we have lots of high quality wood there growing as a weed basically. My idea is to eventually use ash, that should be well suited for a neck. We made a shaft for a sledgehammer for it once, and it did not budge for anything. Using thermal treatment, as the vikings did in this land 1000 years ago, it can be made darker and even harder if desirable. But, there was a long time ago I did any hands-on wood work. So i thought, maybe I should warm up with some low-quality kit first on my journey towards a true self built guitar made out of sustainable wood. Starting point and goal Said and done, today the Thomann Harley Benton DC guitar kit arrived together with some tools and hardware upgrades. Some specs Thomann Harley Benton DC guitar kit Seymor Duncan Alnico ii Pro pickups. Mostly because all people on the internet seem to get a Slashy-ish tone with them that is just amaaaaazing. From what I can hear, the attack is really great on them. Another idea is that they might balance the probably slightly brighter softwood used for the guitar. Audio taper pots that are supposed to be from CTC (says Allparts on the package though).. I saw some Youtube video where the CTC pots performed great regarding characteristics.. Split-coils. I have played some guitars that do split coil really well, so I thought, why not try tone knobs with a switch. Stainless steel jumbo frets. It sickens me when frets wear and vibrato and bending starts to feel awkward. Maybe these stainless frets are worth the hassle the internet is talking about. Cherry dye/stain over charring. Going to give it a shot. I did some prototyping on a piece of pine you can see in the picture. My goal is to make this into real, badass, screaming, highly playable premium guitar. The reason for the cheap kit is because I want to experiment and learn. Funny thing, the pickups cost more than all other things so far together. I think I will land on around 500 euro for everything including paint, to pickups to pick wearing for this guitar. We have a gig in three weeks and I hope to be rehearsing with this guitar well before then. Harley Benton DC guitar kit The DC kit as a neck made of all maple and a dark fretboard. Thomann states that it is roseacer, which is supposed to be thermally treated maple. The only thing I can say so far is that it seems real hard, which is good. It might be laquered, and I would like the surface to be a bit more roughened. It is not clear what the body is made of, but it is light and soft. When calling Thomann, they did not know. I would be very surprised if it is some expensive, threatened wood. The fretboard and the fretwork is the worst I have ever seen otherwise on a guitar or any other instrument, literally. The neck is twisted so badly that I am considering using it as an airplane propeller. Frets are popping up everywhere, and feel like stroking a rasp when grasping the sides of the neck. When trying out the fret rocker, it popped up and down like a horseback when storming over the prairies. Silverlining though, the fretboard is compound radius. My radius gauges arrived today and they concur with my ocular observation: the neck is around 14" by the last frets and 12". If it weren't for the custom-screw shaped neck and the razor-edged-popping-up frets I would have thought I gotten my hand on something real fancy. Then, is see that the neck joint slot is tilted a lot so the neck is inclined forwards. Ughhh. This is not a beginners guitar, it is a wannabe-luthier (like me) kit. Because I don't think a real luthier would or should waste time on it, and a beginner would waste their time on a guitar that is hardly not playable, eventually giving up I think. However, for the price I got a bridge, knobs tuning screws and what not for a lower price then if I had bought it all separately. Probably I will use the pickups for some random fun build later. And, I was hoping for a challenge so I, the wannabe-luthier, feel good about the starting point anyway.I am really happy about the dark but non-rosewood freboard too so far. But is has lower quality then my expectations even, and I feel bad for anybody picking up this guitar thinking it should be decent as is. Next step Fortunately, I am not embarking empty handed on this grand voyage. Just because I wanted to learn how to do neck shaping I started collecting tools this week (yes, I am a newb). In the picture you can see some aluminium beams that I picked up behind my fathers barn, that underwent some grinding and polishing. These are going to get some sand papers on them tomorrow and helping me clean up some of the described mess. Furthermore, I got a Hosco 10"/12" fret radius gridning beam. Also, I built my own 28 degree angle fret file holder and bought a kit of jumbo fret wire, both stainless and nickel. Cherry stain and varnish is already purchased, now off to the hardware store tomorrow to get the rest and then start the grinding. Over and out.
  20. I was just wondering if it would be viable to create a Tele/Strat neck that would work as a sort of hybrid between a set neck and a neck through? I mean have the neck material extending a bit past the length of the fretboard (The scratchplate/pickguard could cover this area). That way there would be enough surface area to be able to glue it as apposed to making it a bolt on? I’m having difficulty explaining what I mean, but hopefully the image below will help, (I’m not sure if this is an illustration of my idea or simply the neck before the conventional tenon is cut out). A random thought I know, but one of the reasons I ask this is because I believe a glued in construction allows for a thinner body? This would possibly work in a single (bridge) pickup design or one where the neck pickup is just a little bit further back. Thoughts appreciated, as always!
  21. Maiden69

    Help with an Ibanez wiring H-H with a 5 way

    yeap... thats the same way I read it. Now lets hope the INS1 and 2 are the same as the QMS1 and 2... and not inverted as other Ibanez guitars
  22. The Blue Lagoonitar . . . despite it's odd appearance (I enjoy building odd instruments) this critter plays. Here's a video. The Blue Lagoonitar Video What we have here is a, 4-string, tenor, rectangular, resonator guitar featuring a cone cover that is in fact the mutilated hubcap of a 1961 Ford Falcon. It's painted with Rustoleum's finest "Lagoon Blue" gloss enamel, and the body is from whatever bits and pieces I found lying around the shop. If memory serves (and increasingly it doesn't) the instrument is mostly oak and poplar, The technical aspects of this blue reso are similar to most other such guitars, with the obvious exceptions being that this one is Rustoleum blue, rectangular, and has the aforementioned mutilated hubcap (not to mention a hand hammered tailpiece carefully crafted from 24-gauge sheet metal). Here are the deets: Scale: 25" scale • 15 frets to the body Body Size: 12" (and change) wide, 19" (and a smidge) long, 4" (and a drop) deep. Total Instrument Length: 42" (give or take) Sound Thingies: 9" resonator biscuit cone (Stew Mac house brand . . . no gravy with these biscuits . . . sorry) Cone Cover: 1961 Falcon (artistically mutilated with my $9, Harbor Freight angle grinder) Amplification: Internal Piezo Pickup with volume control (Not to be confused with a pizza pickup, which is what Papa John's offered before said Papa got himself banished. The piezo is encased in rubber cement and recessed in the the guitar's center stabilizer. Very little handling noise) Neck: Mostly oak . . . hand carved and filed to fit my hand (mostly because I didn't have your hand size). Steel reinforced ala the old Stellas. String Height at Zero Fret: 2.5 mm (or thereabouts) String Height at 12: 5mm (or so) Neck width at zero fret: 1.25" (close enough) Neck Width at body: 1.5" (or damned close to it) Weight: Roughly 1/6th that of my dog (about 7.5 lbs)
  23. mistermikev

    "Delta Cloud' - getting close anyway!

    probably says a lot about your vs my skill. I've gotten some good finishes with poly - but that is easier ime. tru oil is a whole 'nuther discipline. someday I'll get there!
  24. I enjoy it. It can surely make or break the way you build looks. SR
  25. Prostheta

    The Guitar GAS and "blatant inspiration" thread.

    Carl is amazingly humble in spite of being a pioneer of sorts. The way he does neck-throughs as a set of laminates makes it halfway between a set neck and a neck through, the mad jazz and deco influences and simple lack of prior template. A load of people have tried to copy Carl, made beautiful instruments but not captured the whacky.
  26. mistermikev

    "Delta Cloud' - getting close anyway!

    sounds like some interesting stuff. will have to learn more about that... is it wipe on? if not those risks, then the risk of reaction to dye, heat, cold... finishing is such a pain.
  27. It can be surprising the kinds of things that can react negatively with finishes. I was polishing the nitro finish on a mandolin I was building one summer. I'm in Houston, so summertime means shorts. Summertime in Houston also means squadrons of well trained terroristic skeeter bugs. As I was finishing up I noticed an area on the mando where the finish had softened and pushed around into humps and bumps. And it turned out to be where the it rested against my bare leg....which had been sprayed with skeeter bug spray, because I like to keep my blood for myself. Apparently the deet, or some ingredient anyway, makes a pretty good lacquer solvent. SR
  28. one word of warning on Truoil - I had a small 19" scale guitar that I did in korina with a Truoil only finish. It was beautiful, but sat for a while with a coiled guitar cord leaning against the body. The cord melted into the finish! I had to pull it off, and sand and buff the hell out of the Truoil to get that area to look relatively normal again. Mind you, this was WELL after the guitar was done and the finish cured.
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