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  1. Past hour
  2. pshupe

    Firebird "ish"

    I also checked the depths and locations for controls - If I haven't discuss this yet I have a small CNC machine so I will carve the heel and most of the neck on the CNC machine. Again back to CAD. Overall model - Inside my CAM package to set up toolpaths - and simulated carve inside the same CAM software - Then place the neck in the CNC and cross your fingers. - This is the first real look at the scarf joint close up - looks pretty good. Cheers Peter.
  3. ADFinlayson

    Komodo's Metal Tele

    That's is my favourite wiring/switching you've got there. I've gone with the same on most of my builds. I tried out black winters recently, they did nothing for me at all. I play metal but desire a hint of vintage fatness from my neck pups. Recently I've used a demarzio liquifire in the neck, I can highly recommend that pickup and you'll be able to coiltap it without too much volume loss. I've also tried out the holcomb signiture duncans recently - They are seriously high gain if you're looking for a metal sound but the bridge pickup is just a bit thin and meh. The neck pickup on the other hand is really something else, sounds amazing when both tapped or humbucking, but there is a bit more volume loss than the liquifire.
  4. Today
  5. Andyjr1515

    Another Swift Lite Bass

    Just doing a couple of tweaks and the final checks and it'll be pretty much ready to go! It sounds great. James asked for heavyweight strings to be fitted and, with his supplied Aero pickups it sounds really good - even through my non-bass rig! Here are some of the obligatory finished pics (except one change in progress): The one change is that James asked if I could try a coordinating control chamber cover with back wood rather than a contrasting one with top wood - this is what he's gone for and is being finished at this very moment Should be shipping very early next week Andy
  6. Norris

    Komodo's Metal Tele

    I love the smoke/fire switch
  7. pshupe

    Firebird "ish"

    The tapering of the wings. This worked very well and pretty low stress as with the thickness sander it goes as slow as I like. I marked the tops with yellow pencil and when the pencil was gone the tapering was done. Easy Peasy! marked and shims added - Thickness sanded - Finished the taper - I made up some templates for the wings. The wiring channel, control cavity cover, and switch cavity are routed parallel to the top and the control cavity is routed parallel to the front face but routed from the back. I made up some templates and used another shim for the control cavity. The others got routed flush. I mocked up the wings and marked where they will go - Cheers Peter.
  8. Yesterday
  9. westhemann

    Misc Stuff about Life. Part XII

    Of course it's also important to make money to fund these weirdo projects. This is some rails I helped my buddy install in a house in Austin. It's really nice to be working with a friend without some corporate bullshit making everything shitty. I told hom we should really string that upper left rail like a harp. He agreed it was a good idea, but said the customer probably wouldn't buy it.
  10. westhemann

    Misc Stuff about Life. Part XII

    I did most of the work on the passenger side last time, so my next goal is to get thd driver's side similarly outfitted with angle to replace the rounded bottom panels that always rust on these trucks. Then I can start filling and sanding.
  11. westhemann

    Misc Stuff about Life. Part XII

    I'm going to get BEATINGU licence plates.
  12. pshupe

    Firebird "ish"

    I'm not sure what you mean by is the grain direction parallel with the body of the neck? The neck through is pretty much quartersawn after laminating. A little sneak peak to how the wings glued up. Yes there is a neck angle about 3 degrees and my headstock is at 11 degrees. Here is a cad file - I think it is shown above as well - The neck angle was worked out based on my bridge and my preferred bridge height. I probably should have had it a little bit more as will become evident in later posts. Regards Peter.
  13. Eatpasta

    First guitar!

    Yeah, that's less likely than running into Seymour as he is alive and moving about
  14. mistermikev

    First guitar!

    You mean your wife runs into seymour duncan? for a min there I thought you might mean your wife runs into/chats w johnny cash's dead body... that'd be creepy!
  15. Eatpasta

    First guitar!

    My wife actually got to know him pretty well as she went to see Brad Paisley not that long ago and sat next to him, We were hanging out with said friend that works at SD. Because Santa Barbara is such a small town, she now runs into him and chats with him Ironically, that happens with Brad Paisley around here too
  16. ScottR

    Not Quite A Tele...

    Previous to last weekend I had only been draining the compressor tank. This weekend I added a filter/moisture trap. That helped quite a bit....not was not a cure-all. I'm thinking days in the 80's instead of the 70's would be best. SR
  17. komodo

    Not Quite A Tele...

    And you said you are using moisturr traps inline? I always make sure to drain the petcock on the compressor tank, and use an inline ball filter plus a dessicant filter inline. Even then I had to use blush eraser.
  18. ScottR

    Misc Stuff about Life. Part XII

    I've always wanted a truck like that.to handle the next asshole that cuts me off in Houston traffic. SR
  19. ScottR

    Not Quite A Tele...

    I have tried erasing, drying for a few days and erasing again as needed. Sometimes I need to do that, most times I don't. This particular build needs it more often than not. My can of eraser is several years old, and I sprayed the last of it this weekend. I will be interested to see if the fresh can (when it arrives) needs as many second sprays as the old one did. SR
  20. Prostheta

    Firebird "ish"

    Very much by the numbers, Peter. This is exactly how my Firebirds are being built also. Question; is the grain direction parallel with the body or the neck? The blanks prepared for mine both have the headstock and the body falling away either side of the neck plane. Sorry if this has already been clarified. I'm on the mobile at work!
  21. komodo

    Komodo's Metal Tele

    This is 99% done, I'll update pics as I have them. I struggled with wiring, as I wanted two coil cuts and realized AFTER THE FACT that my neck pup is a single conductor?! Forest for the trees. Contemplating a wire swap to 4-conductor or a new pup, I wondered about that Duncan Black Winter sitting on the shelf. A 16k ceramic bridge pup as a neck?! Let's try it. I used the pup height and raised the poles to balance bridge and beck signal and holy cow I think we're on to something. The Black Winter is brighter, hi-mids, and is an amazing neck pup, and in single coil is tear inducing (good tears). All it needs is a truss cover and it's done. It plays spectacularly (thank goodness).
  22. komodo

    Not Quite A Tele...

    It'll be worth it. I had the heaviest blushing I've ever had with my last spray, and the blush eraser was like magic. Did you try erasing, letting it dry for a day or two and trying it again? Just curious. That back carve!
  23. pshupe

    Firebird "ish"

    I'm done with needing the nechthrough to be square so I can thickness the body, neck, and headstock to roughly the correct thickness. I just do this on the bandsaw with the neck through standing upright. I made a little MDF template for the top profile of the neck from the body end to the end of the nut and used the router table to match the template. If you notice the different machines, you have a keen eye. I teach a Con Ed course at a local college and then sign up for the wood working shop space time for a fraction of the price to use the larger tools, Onto the wings again. I made a template for the body as well so I can layout the wings in the right location. They are offset a bit top to bottom. I also made a couple of head stock templates and used the router table to shape the head stock. and sliced up a small piece of black limba for the veneer. I also thicknessed the wings to the correct width at the body join. They are tapered so I have to come up with a good way to taper them later. I decided to taper the wings using my thickness sander and shims to keep the angles correct. I figured I could also use the template to route the final shape. I thought I could keep them square and make it easier to clamp them into the neck through V joint first then shape them. Cheers Peter.
  24. westhemann

    Misc Stuff about Life. Part XII

    Luckily all my income taxes are current, so that can't happen. Land taxes are what I haven't paid for the year yet, and I still have time. They are County though so I think people are still there. I wish the Chump in Chief would stop pouting over that wall. Only a very small percentage of complete morons even want such a monstrosity.
  25. joshhill67

    First Build - Silent Guitar

    That is exactly it - thank you!
  26. curtisa

    First Build - Silent Guitar

    The position of the bridge will be governed by the fret spacing on your borrowed fret board, nominally 2x the distance of the nut to the 12th fret plus a bit. The 'bit' extra is your intonation allowance on the saddles, which will typically push the bridge back further than 2x nut-12th fret, so perhaps this is the longer distance you've noted on the bridge when it was installed on the original guitar? The question of where exactly to position the bridge relative to the theoretical scale length comes up moderately frequently. You can look up some calculators that present some typical values of the the extra 'bit' in the measurements provided you're using certain hardware which takes the thinking component out of the decision (the StewMac fret placement calc comes to mind) . Or do some educated guesstimation to get you in the ballpark that works pretty much every time for any bridge - some discussion on the topic can be found here:
  27. I can manually elevate your profile to the Patreon group, but I'm not sure if it's meant to be automagically performed once you start donating to the ProjectGuitar Patreon page, for which I don't have access to confirm (and would likely start breaking stuff if I tried) @Prostheta would be wizard at the gates of the server room who would possess the knowledge you seek.
  28. mistermikev

    First Build - Silent Guitar

    no expert but the position of the hips of the guitar are where it would matter for comfort. that said... I don't think you would even feel a 1/2" less comfortable!
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