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Thank you Sir!!

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Thank you Sir!!

Don't you mean "It's about time!" :D

Sorry that it took me so long. If there are any pictures or detail shots that you would like to see let me know and I'll post them for you.

~David

Edited by Myka Guitars

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Don't you mean "It's about time!" 
Haha, no I figured you were busy. the fact that you took the time out to make a tutorial is cool as hell. I was thinking of aluminum guide rails too. I am a little scared that my bit might catch the rail though. I do have some red oak which I think might work. Anyway, thats again for the help!

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I almost started rigging one of those up a couple days ago. I found the link you had before (it was in use, not how to make it) and started laying out some plans. Then I changed my mind and did it differently :D . I'll have to make it for sure now.

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Myka, Thanx for taking the Time to let us all know an easier way to build our guitars! I assume your a busy guy like many of us and it's a great thing to pass info along.

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Hey Myka! Do you know any tricks for clamping a scarf joint? Are there any jig plans that you know of that will hold them in the correct position while allowing the glue to dry.

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moved and pinned...because it is just too cool to let get lost.

i love it! :D

hope you don't mind myka,i saved all the pics to my computer for easy reference for me in case your site goes down or something

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Great tutorial!!! We need more of those and you did an excellent job. Always been impressed by your work. I've been too busy to check the boards the last couple of weeks, but it was great to see that someone is actually contributing in a big way. Now to find the time to build one.. lol

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holly crap. Why can't I do something that smart? what a way to build a jig.

Now I have my next setup though, very very cool!

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moved and pinned...because it is just too cool to let get lost.

i love it! :D

hope you don't mind myka,i saved all the pics to my computer for easy reference for me in case your site goes down or something

This is cool! I don't mind at all. This jig has saved me hours and does a really great job. I am glad that you all are finding it as useful as I have.

And I don't mind if anyone downloads the images. Please feel free.

~David

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Are you using a really long router bit to get all the way to the bottom? The depth is farther than most bits. So how do you reach the bottom?

Is the pickup cavity template tapered to the shape of the neck so it stays right on center with it?

Great idea!

-Doug

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David,

I have a question about your Jig set up. I made a slightly modified version using what I had on hand so the base platform was a little shorter. Anyway, when you set your difference in height between the front and back edges, how are you measuring to get the adjacent side for the Tangent calculation, outside edge to inside edge?

When I placed the straight edges up on top they did not hit the front and back edges as I had figured they would. They actually sit on the outside edge of the front piece and the inside edge of the back piece. Is this correct? Am I measuring this and/or seeing this correctly?

Nice Jig by the way, really doesn't take that long to build.

Thanks.

Nelson

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doug, I am using a long router bit. You can see it in some of the pictures. The cutting length is 2". It's huge so if you get one go slow and take small passes. You don't want that thing getting away from you.

nwood, I didn't do any calculations. I just set a straight edge across the front and back edges while they were still square and measured the difference from the front to the back and got out my hand plane. You do want to get them pretty close to the right angle so you don't pull down the straight edges and bow them.

Sorry I don't have measurements or calculations for you. It's hard for me to explain things like this with math or words, I just see it. I think and see in 3D and consequently do 99% of my work by eye.

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That's what I was looking for, so you do plane the bottom of the straight edges to match the angle of the front nd back edge. I didnt do this but I was very careful with placement of the clamps.

Thanks again,

Nelson

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I bevel the supports on the ends of the jig and leave the straight edges flat and straight. This way they can be trued up if necessary on a jointer. Also I like to have a lip on the supports in case you need to use a clamp on it.

Edited by Myka Guitars

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Built mine last night with some minor modifications.. primarily replacing clamps with T-Slot fixtures and holddowns.. beautifuld esign. Thanks, I look forward to putting it to good use. Ii think this jig can serve as a foundation to a lot of associated cutting and routing operations. I especially love that you cn do all your sculpting and contouring before routing and end up with more consistent lines and details.

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As long as there's no flex. With the amount you'd have to reduce the wood to be able to use a shorter bit, you're going to have flex. Maybe if you went to aluminum instead you could use a marginally shorter bit.

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I use the same type of jig to build he neck pocket *templates*. This alleviates the need of extralong router bit, 1" cutting length bit is just enough in this case...

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