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"brushing" Sanding Sealer (nitro)


kench

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I'm planning to finish my guitar with CLOU nitro-cellulose aerosol lacquers. I've heard many good things about them and when I test spray in on scrap maple, I achieved a very good result with only 2 coats of clear. Glossy and flat. But on mahogany I think I will need a sanding sealer also. But unfortunately I can't find the sealer in a rattle can. and I don't have a spraying equipment. CLOU makes the aerosol sealer but it is not available here in Turkey. There are sealers in cans though.. Is it ok to "brush" sanding sealer or apply with a cloth? It doesn't sound so bad to me, but maybe more level sanding will require.

What I'd like to know are:

1) If is it ok, how? Thinned or not? If thinned, how much?

2) What else can be done if "spraying" the sanding sealer is not on option?

3) Or should I just build the sealer coat by spraying more aerosol lacquer

Edited by kench
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I'm planning to finish my guitar with CLOU nitro-cellulose aerosol lacquers. I've heard many good things about them and when I test spray in on scrap maple, I achieved a very good result with only 2 coats of clear. Glossy and flat. But on mahogany I think I will need a sanding sealer also. But unfortunately I can't find the sealer in a rattle can. and I don't have a spraying equipment. CLOU makes the aerosol sealer but it is not available here in Turkey. There are sealers in cans though.. Is it ok to "brush" sanding sealer or apply with a cloth? It doesn't sound so bad to me, but maybe more level sanding will require.

What I'd like to know are:

1) If is it ok, how? Thinned or not? If thinned, how much?

2) What else can be done if "spraying" the sanding sealer is not on option?

3) Or should I just build the sealer coat by spraying more aerosol lacquer

Did you look in auto supply stores? I'm pretty sure I saw a rattle can sealer/filler when buying my paints--there were two versions, one thicker, one thinner.

I used a 'brush on' sealer though --actually I wiped it on using paper towels. I did two coats, sanding between coats and again before the primer. Works just fine.

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From Re Ranch 101

The application is simple as the sealer can be brushed on. Brush on the first coat and allow to dry for a few minutes. When the surface is flat (non reflective) a second coat can be brushed on. Allow this double coat to dry at least an hour (I usually wait overnight). When dry the coats can be block sanded flat. I suggest that this sanding be done in an area where dust is not a concern. You will see why when you begin sanding. I also suggest that you wear a mask. When this two coat application has been sanded flat (no shiny spots) wipe down with a dry cloth, inspect again for shiny spots and repeat. That is; apply two more coats. Paint them on as before with time allowed between coats for the coats to dry flat. When dry (again at least an hour) sand the coats flat. During sanding wipe off the dust to aid in locating pits which will appear shiny. The base you are creating will be the foundation for the lacquer finishing coats. Unless corrected, any pits, runs or unfilled areas will show in the final lacquer coats. Because of the high solid content of the filler, corrections can be made much easier at this stage.

The base should appear flat with no pits showing. If you find pits they can be drop filled with the sand and sealer and sanded flat. You will find that pits and swales that are too deep to be safely sanded out can be made invisible with repeated fills. Color coats and clear coating can now be applied.

Read this page and browse thru their site, lots of information about finishing here

http://reranch.august.net/ReRanch101.html

and here

http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/bridge...e_guitar01.html

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