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"tortoise Shell" Dye Finish


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Very nice!!! Well done! Gonna do the natural binding?

This ones gonna be a killer B)

Rodney, I owe you a big THANK YOU for the advice! :D

Yes, I'm doing the natural binding. I followed Myka's method of masking and sealing the binding first. I used 1/8" pinstriping tape to get the edge and it turned out really clean. :D Now I just have to sand/scrape the top edge to finish it up.

Mike

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Glad to be of service, but the hard part was on you!

Tape, huh? Back in the day we did it and used the high part of the lip as a feel guide for the fingers and the rag.

Suprisingly a binding was rarely ever ruined. When I would train people it seemed like the tape made them over confident and they would bear down on the edge more than they should and the stain would soak under. Plus it added alot of time to the prep. Gotta get those numbers!!

Looks like you had no such problem, and Myka's stuf is amazing so as the saying goes, more than one way to skin a cat. :D

So you sand and scrape? Fill me in on the scrape if you don't mind, I'm always interested in other people's techniques.

again, really nice, you should be proud.

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What I did was mask the bottom edge of the maple with the 1/8" 3M green, as well as the perimeter of the top, then 2" tape to mask the top and sides. I wiped on a couple coats of Zinsser Sealcoat (shellac) to seal the binding. (I had a couple minor spots where the shellac got under the tape, but they were easily sanded/scraped off. I avoided this problem on subsequent masking by making sure not to stretch the tape too much, and running around the edge with thumbnail pressure to get a good seal).

Then I removed the tape and masked over the binding (always using the pinstriping tape at the binding edge to keep a clean line) while I pore filled the mahogany back. I had to unmask the binding to sand back the filler, then re-seal and re-mask before I stained the back. Once the back was stained and sealed, I masked the sides and stained the top.

That just leaves the top edge to clean up. I got the sanding/scraping thing from Dan Erlewine: scraped binding edge

This method is probably way too labor-intensive for a production shop, but it worked really well for this newbie. :D

Thanks again for your help :D

Mike

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Yeah, probably a lot more steps than absolutely necessary, but I wanted to make sure I got it to turn out clean the first time. :D

Shellac washcoat via Preval sprayer. No sanding sealer. Then rattlecan nitro - Behlen Master Topcoat Gloss Lacquer: behlens topcoat

Algee showed me the heat lamp/fan setup he uses for curing, so I'm going to give it a -careful- try... hopefully this will let me buff it out after two weeks vs. a month or more.

Mike

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I bought it from Woodworker's Supply - they shipped it from their warehouse in Wyoming.

How they shipped is my main concern... ground or USPS.

I think they shipped it to me UPS Ground. But it looks like they ship USPS to APO/FPO addresses - I'm assuming you have one of those? shipping info (scroll up)

I don't know what kind of restrictions there might be on shipping flammable/hazardous stuff.

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