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xlr8

Neck Pocket Jig

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I thought you might like to see my version of a neck pocket jig;

DSC00448.jpg

You can it uses the same principle as that employed by David Myka, whose excellent explanation of how to use it is Here. The overall dimensions are 18" x 36" with the Aluminium box section rails being 1 1/2" x 3".

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8...ls/DSC00449.jpg

I used a gantry arrangement at the rear as it allows the support to straddle the body therefore making the guide rails shorter and of course stronger.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8...ls/DSC00445.jpg

You can also see in this picture the self adhesive scale which has a central zero which you align with the centre line of the jig, thus allowing you to check that the rails are central.

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DSC00451.jpg

Here's a similar arrangement at the front.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8...ls/DSC00459.jpg

A neck mortise after the corners have been squared with a very sharp chisel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8...ls/DSC00461.jpg

I hope you can see in the above picture just how good a fit this is.

It took alittle while to design and build but that effort has resulted in an accurate sturdy jig that easy to use and will give good service for years.

Neil

I also meant to say that you can vary the angle by placing spacers under the gantry mounts.

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NICE!

. . and you will build these and sell them for how much?

Thanks!

KOMODO :D

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self adhesive scale

Where did you get that?

Do a google search for self adhesive rule, I'm in the UK so I got mine Here

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David would be proud :D I like the idea of using the t-track, I will definately be employing that feature in mine when I get around to building it. Tell me, how did you joint the lexan?

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Tell me, how did you joint the lexan?

I used my Woodrat;

54c4cc1c.jpg

Shown here with some flame maple but the principle is the same, gets a great finish.

Neil

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Wow, this is an excellent update to the original design. I am currently working on a similar idea using the adjustable t-slots and knobs. Your work will certainly inspire some of the ideas I will put into it especially the height adjustment. The abilty to change the neck angle more easily is just awesome. It is so cool seeing these evolve. Nice work!

~David

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Say Im making guitars with no neck angle and I have a pin router and template. There would be no need for one of these, correct?

Very nice jigs you guys made here.

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self adhesive scale

Where did you get that?

Do a google search for self adhesive rule, I'm in the UK so I got mine Here

Thanks! I don't know how I never thought of those before, I could definitely use those on many jigs i have.

Say Im making guitars with no neck angle and I have a pin router and template. There would be no need for one of these, correct?

Very nice jigs you guys made here.

No buddy, looks like you're set to go, these jigs shown in this thread are mainly used for set neck guitars, where the actual neck is used to set up the jig, sort of like an adjustable template. Your pin router used with a template is all you need for that job, assuming all your doing is a standard bolt on and you have the right template.

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No buddy, looks like you're set to go, these jigs shown in this thread are mainly used for set neck guitars, where the actual neck is used to set up the jig, sort of like an adjustable template.  Your pin router used with a template is all you need for that job, assuming all your doing is a standard bolt on and you have the right template.

yeah thats what I thought..... I havent ventured into the realm of set-necks yet.

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So I got around to building the second part to what is turning out to be a very versatile jig. Using some more 20mm perspex I fabricated this sliding router support. The router base hase been removed and the router recessed into the perspex by 10mm.

DSC00620.jpg

The router is attached from the bottom via countersunk screws, like an upside down router table if you will. You'll also notice four stop bolts (two front and two rear) which stop the bit from contacting the side wall whilst also preventing the router support falling into the gap.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8...ls/DSC00617.jpg

Here I'm using it to surface a highly figured flame maple cap with no tear out. In the shot the body is attached to the base by double sided tape.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/xlr8...ls/DSC00623.jpg

And here I'm using it to thickness a Mahogany body this time holding it down with rail clamps.

I'm using a 1 1/2" bit in all of the above to essentially 'fly cut' the wood. No matter how figured the piece there is little or no tear out, the chips nearly all stay within the gantry walls aiding cleanup and your hands need never go near the cutter. I have a 13" planer but this is easier, cheaper and quieter. By using various fixtures and or clamps you can square and surface the most unruly pieces (providing they are no thicker than the height of the gantry walls).

Hope this is of some use.

Neil

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Nice addition man! I am hoping to build a similar jig as Ive said in the past. I am going to use the inclined guides and a similar base to rout the pickup plane on a pair of PRS copies I am planning. Should be cool. Keep up the good work!!

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picture rules people... im sick of editting posts.

I'm sorry Perry, a PM and I would have gladly edited my posts.

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Those jigs are practically works of art! Very, very inspiring.

What the heck is a woodrat?

Any chance of you drawing up some plans and a materials list, xlr8?

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Yes. Same "rules" though, dont try to cut too much at once, blah blah blah. One thing, the corners (where two edges meet) will become razor sharp after you rout them. I have cut myself more than once of plexi.

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