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fryovanni

Acoustic Builds.

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Hi Fryovanni! Im out in Colorado by your sister city, Boulder....but if Im ever going up to Oregon, been meaning to...Ill drop a line :D !!

When I say I want to sell my first few guitars, I mean I hope to regain cost output + $100 bucks to pay for the next ones, and help pay for more tools. So like $275-300.00 bucks. I hope thats doable!! We'll find out in a few months if they dont explode, bend warp, and my biggest worry, frets, bridge mount sounds good.... All solid wood Mahogany guitar for $300.00 bucks? Dang...

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Well I have kinda jumped the gun on my acoustic. My progress was going slow and I am getting close to my Christmas build(I try to get a project going each year at this time). Soooo.... My delima was what design to build. This current project is a bit of a wild card, and I had reservations about starting a second if the first sucks. So I by-passed some ofthe trim work and strung it up to give it a listen. I was pleased with the results. Very powerful, sensitive, but hard to overdrive. Here is a shot of the odd ball bridge that was my biggest wild card.

bridge1.gif

bridge2.jpg

I will give it a week to settle before I make design choices, but this one seems like it will be a good one.

Peace,Rich

P.S. Goodwood, I look forward to seeing your progress. Good Luck, and have fun with the project.

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I like the split saddle. Do you intend to put a piezo in there anytime, and if so do you know of one that would fit such a bridge?

I'm not sure I dig that the ball-ends show. Maybe if you turned them so they all had the same orientation???

You know, like how a lot of guitar shots have the tuner buttons all lined up in the same direction. :D

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Rich, that's oh sexy beast of a guitar you've got coming along there. As for starting up a new project.... and your recent wild-card draws in building, why not make an "out there" acoustic? Kinda like Parker went for, and I think succeeded. Maybe I'll liscence you the ability to use the "leg cut-away" lower horn design on my DC Egos lol (not that mine fits a leg.... but you could make it big enough on an acoustic :D)

Chris

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Erik,

I like the split saddle. Do you intend to put a piezo in there anytime, and if so do you know of one that would fit such a bridge?

I didn't have any plans to place a piezo in this bridge. I would possibly go with under bridge If I had to. However If I do plan for a a pickup system. I may alter the saddle configuration a bit to accomodate. Shoot you can always pull a bridge and replace it(hide glue is pretty forgiving).

I'm not sure I dig that the ball-ends show. Maybe if you turned them so they all had the same orientation???

You know, like how a lot of guitar shots have the tuner buttons all lined up in the same direction. :D

:D Ya I guess I could take a little more pride in my work B) . Actually I may still play with the tail piece a bit more. Some sort of pin or what have ya. It definately works fine, but it is just the proto type. I have never seen it done quite like this. Can you think of anyone who uses a bridge similar to this? From my point of view the most significant feature is to "level" the twisting of the bridge in a resting state. The strings exit the front of the bridge breaking up to the tail piece. This provides a balance to bring the bridge back to a more neutral state. It was all theory, and now I have a hint of real world. I think it shows potential.

Chris,

Rich, that's oh sexy beast of a guitar you've got coming along there. As for starting up a new project.... and your recent wild-card draws in building, why not make an "out there" acoustic? Kinda like Parker went for, and I think succeeded. Maybe I'll liscence you the ability to use the "leg cut-away" lower horn design on my DC Egos lol (not that mine fits a leg.... but you could make it big enough on an acoustic )

I dunno about wild card draws(actually that is singular). I am so conservative generally that this is a huge stretch for me. If I still think it is worthy in a week. I may build another. The next one will be more refined and I will try to work out bugs to make it better. I like the basic body shape. I could make it a tiny bit bigger in the lower bout, but not much(it is over 16" already). Different bridge material(a lighter rosewood say Palisander- as this is african Blackwood).

Peace,Rich

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Actually I may still play with the tail piece a bit more. Some sort of pin or what have ya. It definately works fine, but it is just the proto type. I have never seen it done quite like this. Can you think of anyone who uses a bridge similar to this? From my point of view the most significant feature is to "level" the twisting of the bridge in a resting state. The strings exit the front of the bridge breaking up to the tail piece. This provides a balance to bring the bridge back to a more neutral state. It was all theory, and now I have a hint of real world. I think it shows potential.

For sure, I think its quite original, I've never seen anything similar. Looks to me like it should remove the torque from the bridge itself and spread that stress out between it and the tailpiece. Cool. Maybe all it needs is to have some recesses drilled laterally that the ball-ends can sit in, out of sight.

I could imagine doing something similar underneath the soundboard, but it would be more difficult to string up.

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Actually I may still play with the tail piece a bit more. Some sort of pin or what have ya. It definately works fine, but it is just the proto type. I have never seen it done quite like this. Can you think of anyone who uses a bridge similar to this? From my point of view the most significant feature is to "level" the twisting of the bridge in a resting state. The strings exit the front of the bridge breaking up to the tail piece. This provides a balance to bring the bridge back to a more neutral state. It was all theory, and now I have a hint of real world. I think it shows potential.

For sure, I think its quite original, I've never seen anything similar. Looks to me like it should remove the torque from the bridge itself and spread that stress out between it and the tailpiece. Cool. Maybe all it needs is to have some recesses drilled laterally that the ball-ends can sit in, out of sight.

I could imagine doing something similar underneath the soundboard, but it would be more difficult to string up.

Yeah, I thought about different ways to hide the ball ends. I NEEDED to be able to ajust the strings up though for the proto. This will allow me to increase the break angle up to the tail piece(if you can see all the slots in the tail piece allow for raising). So far though the bridge is very well balanced even when I had first left the saddle extreamly high(mucho torque), and I have not seen any signs of top deflection(although I need to give it time to confirm that aspect).

I didn't want to penetrate the soundboard, and thus ruled out any work below the top. I think it would be challenging to get this effect as it is based on opposing break angles. In order to do that it seems like you need to break back througn the top plane. I would imagine a more clever person than me could figure something out.

I think the next evolution in testing this style of bridge is a lighter version(lighter wood). If all stays put maybe a little bracing re-think(lighten, or design mod based on observation).

Peace,Rich

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I'm currently building my first acoustic guitar. Check out my blog about it....

http://www.jparm.com/category/building-an-acoustic-guitar/

My blog is actually pretty far behind my progress though :D

Enjoy!

Good for you! The Performax 16-32 is a life saver. I would love to see more progress shots. I will also add your link to the first message on this topic.

Peace,Rich

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Wow, cool bridge system there Rich. Big plus for originality! A sort of 2-piece acoustic wrap-around thang. I like the idea of recessing to hide the ball ends, or perhaps a small plate across the top to hide them.

On the mimf awhile back, someone reported using a single piezo under a split saddle with good results. Supposedly no drop outs even though the piezo wasn't directly under the saddles all the way across. If memory serves, the D and G strings were slightly off (forward) from the piezo, but they still came through with little or no change compared to the other strings. So said that person anyway.

Good stuff! :D

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Im thinking of getting a Padouk set for my second guitar. Its cheap and the guy lives a few miles away. In comparison to Mahogany, he said its more trebly, which I dont like. So make the soundhole slighty smaller,and make it a 4.85 body depth to get more bass, if I get the set.

Does anyone have experience with Padouk? and how do/did you like it? I may jsut pony up for a decent set of quarter Mahogany if my first comes out ok though...but this stuff is cheap, and I need the practice...

Thanks

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Im thinking of getting a Padouk set for my second guitar. Its cheap and the guy lives a few miles away. In comparison to Mahogany, he said its more trebly, which I dont like. So make the soundhole slighty smaller,and make it a 4.85 body depth to get more bass, if I get the set.

Does anyone have experience with Padouk? and how do/did you like it? I may jsut pony up for a decent set of quarter Mahogany if my first comes out ok though...but this stuff is cheap, and I need the practice...

Thanks

Padauk is a nice wood. Very resonant. I wouldn't hesitate to use it. As far as it being brighter. Well there are a lot of factors in an acoustic that make up it's tone. Back and Sides play a much smaller tole in tone than overall design, top wood and so forth. I would focus on construction of your first. If you want to use Padauk back and sides go ahead. Get cost and value of these out of your head. Your going to frustrate yourself.

Peace,Rich

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Some one already said what I was thinking when I saw it, recess the ball ends. That is really cool and original for sure.

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Well just a little update on the odd ball bridge.

It is doing good, and sounds great. I tuned it up early in the week and have been playing it each day. So far it has not lost it's tune. Which is kinda odd to me as normally a new top has a little settling to do and a little re-tune would be expected. I am not making much of that, but it is an observation. Absolutely no signs of lifting, distortion, or potential failure. So far I have picked up some ideas on how to improve the next one(at this point I am going to persue another one).

Peace,Rich

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Cool! Sounds like it has achieved its functional purpose, in a much more artistic way than a JB Bridge Doctor kinda thing (which I've heard can mute the attack a bit).

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Ron Steigers nice all spruce GOTM entry finally got me going and had me make an update on my sadly under-maintained in-progress blogg. I'm currently shooting the finish. Have a look at the beautiful bear claw Sitka spruce top

Top_being_sprayed.jpg

The back:

http://www.peternaglitschluthier.com/evens...ing_sprayed.jpg

And the neck:

http://www.peternaglitschluthier.com/evens...ing_sprayed.jpg

The pics of the access panel cover were just too blurry to use but there are some nice marquetry on that one.

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Peter

That looks great man....keep going your be happy you did....

Did you know that stew mac sell bolts with holes in them that you can install your bridge bolt the bridge down and install your strings....and pre set

the guitar up and play it? when its all set up ...intonation right then glue the bridge on...also lmi sells ktm9 thats water base ...

finish that almost all companys are using.. well over all she looks great....

ron

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Thanx Ron

I have already strung this baby up using those bolts you mentioned. That made me add some extra bracings to tighten up the bass, get a more focused mid and add some treble (hopefully at least…)

I have a can of KTM-9 sitting on the shelf to try out. On this I’m using the StewMac color tone water based finish. I’m not too happy with that. I liked the Crystallac they carried before much more but I cannot get hold of it over here. But I use the StewMac on this to get rid of the last half quart because it is an experimental guitar and a learning experience and I don’t expect an instrument of “selling quality grade” out of this project. Do you have experience from the KTM-9? I have tried to get info about the differences (in spraying technique and sanding/buffing) but have a hard time finding someone that have tried both.

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I dont have much info....ktm9

what I do know is ..after spaying it..(WAIT TWO WEEKS) just walk away from it ,and let the finish do its job...and set.up ...

I think you have a window were you burn in coats as your painting ,thin coat,wait8hrs,thin coat/up to 10 coats....then wait 10days...color sand

with 1500wet and dry paper,use water.... then buff....

one thing ktm9 does'nt do is fill the pores of the wood....You need to epoxy the pores....2 part system...

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