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SJP

Glue Line Appearing After Paint!

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SJP    0

We've sprayed our back face with primer and laquer, and now the glue line on the back is starting to appear. we've sanded it out and repainted the back already, but the line just came back again. any suggested on wats happening and how to fix it???

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We've sprayed our back face with primer and laquer, and now the glue line on the back is starting to appear. we've sanded it out and repainted the back already, but the line just came back again. any suggested on wats happening and how to fix it???

What kinda glue did you use to glue them together? Did you sand all the glue squeeze out away and level the body before starting?

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SJP    0

Primer first, then paint.

we used "Tight Bond #2". yes we sanded the body level before we painted, and yes we primed first then sprayed our laquer. which is when the line appeared.we dont know wat to do :D

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SJP    0

Does the line appear as a depression or as a different color?

no its raised, and its the black color.

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Maiden69    0

Most of the time is because the guitar was not prepped (sp) well before painting. I had the same problem with the back of my Kelly. I thought that the sealer had done his job, but once the color coat went on I could see the line. Not like yours you can't feel it and it is not depressed.

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gripper    0

OK! You shot it with black laquer after the primer! Your primer is not supposed to let this happen. The reaction between the laquer and the Titebond is causing the raised line. Is the primer you are using laquer sealer/primer? If so, go get a refund.

Refunds ROCK!

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SJP    0

yes, as a matter of a fact, we did use a laquer sealer/primer!! hopw bad is this?? we also put down some primer coats with a filler primer, and a regualer primer as well. all kinda at different times. are we goin to have to strip the paint and start over??

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erikbojerik    1

I can see a glue line on my blackie Fender strat...and that's with a poly coat about a mile thick....if it helps any. :D

I would go thicker on the sealer and primer both, then let the primer cure really well before moving to black.

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How was the wood joint prepared?

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Setch    0

Sometimes joints telegraph through the finish, aint much you can do about it. Avoid Titebond 2 in future, it's water-resistance is of no use in guitar construction, and the additives which give it this feature also prevent it drying as hard as original titebond. There have been a couple of anecdotal reports on the MIMF of joints failing and the glue in the centre still being soft after weeks of drying, It's also reported to creep more, despite the manufacturers claims.

Stick with the original - it's cheaper, more widely available, and better suited to guitar building.

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Very true, Titebond original has proven to be better than their other products for luthier work. Another thing that could give your problems, as I have heard of it happening before, was if you cleaned and lubricated the jointer feed tables with something that left residue on each edge. That would cause you major headaches like your describing, but I'm not saying that's your issue though.

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SJP    0

Very true, Titebond original has proven to be better than their other products for luthier work. Another thing that could give your problems, as I have heard of it happening before, was if you cleaned and lubricated the jointer feed tables with something that left residue on each edge. That would cause you major headaches like your describing, but I'm not saying that's your issue though.

basically, i dont think the wood joint was really prepared AT ALL. factory edge to factory edge is wat it was.(to aswer "mammoth guitars"). thanx for the advice about the glue tho, nothing we can do about it on this guitar, but on our next im sure we'll go with a different glue. thanx for the help everyone, very mch appreciated.

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Mattia    1

Use titebond I, and whereve possible glue up FRESHLY jointed/sanded/planed/scraped surfaces. Clean ones, but still. The longer you can leave glueups to sit without doing anything with them, the better.

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