Hydrogeoman Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 Ok, what am I doing wrong? I made a simple version of Myka's pocket jig, but here is my dilema. I can't get deep enough routes. Even with my plunge router set as low as it will go and my pattern bit pulled out some in the collet (I know, I know - very dangerous and stupid), I can't make a deep enough route for the set neck I am currently working on. Here are my specs: The top of the guitar sits approximately 3/16 below the bottom edge of the oak slats (bearing guide) for the router. The oak slats are about 1 thick. jig2 Even if the slats rest flat against the guitar top, I can't get enough depth using a 2.5 inch long pattern bit with a 1.25 inch cutting face. I have not found any pattern bits with a longer cutting face than this. I can't think of any solution except for making the guide slats thinner, but that seems like it will allow too much flex resulting in an inaccurate route. Thanks for any guidance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/s...4123778_5193+47 check out router bit #3023. If that's not long enough, I don't know what is. I think that's what I used, can't remember off the top of my head though. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pr3Va1L Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 Well, if your pocket is deep enough for it, you could just remove the template and route using the sides of the pocket as guides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 (edited) I have not had any problems with cutting deep enough on mine. I use a bit I got at homedepot that has an abnormally long shaft that allows a deeper cut. The last guitar had the pocket routed almost to the back and I had no trouble reaching. The guitar is even 1/4" below the oak boards. Edited July 28, 2006 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum_Barrow Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 Before I build my next guitar I'm going to make one of those jigs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydrogeoman Posted July 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/s...4123778_5193+47 check out router bit #3023. If that's not long enough, I don't know what is. I think that's what I used, can't remember off the top of my head though. peace, russ Thank Russ, I think that bit may get me to where I need to be. Except I didn't really want to spend $38 for a bit - ouch! The heel on this neck is 1.4 inches thick from the bottom of the fretboard (which I want to be flush with the top of the body) neck heel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydrogeoman Posted July 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 I have not had any problems with cutting deep enough on mine. I use a bit I got at homedepot that has an abnormally long shaft that allows a deeper cut. The last guitar had the pocket routed almost to the back and I had no trouble reaching. The guitar is even 1/4" below the oak boards. Could you let me know what bit you are using? I was at HD today and did not see anything that would work. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted July 28, 2006 Report Share Posted July 28, 2006 I think this is it. link 3 7/64" overall length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydrogeoman Posted July 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 I think this is it. link 3 7/64" overall length. Thanks for the link. So do you let the bearing ride down in the neck pocket if you are setting a neck deeper than the 3/4 in cut depth? If so, doesn't that leave a tiny lip inside the pocket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarageRocker Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 IMHO if you spend the extra money and buy the Whiteside 3023, you'll never be sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydrogeoman Posted July 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 IMHO if you spend the extra money and buy the Whiteside 3023, you'll never be sorry. Yeah, I came to the same conclusion. I am going to order the bit today. Thanks for everybodies input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydrogeoman Posted July 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 IMHO if you spend the extra money and buy the Whiteside 3023, you'll never be sorry. Yeah, I came to the same conclusion. I am going to order the bit today. Thanks for everybodies input! One more question though. This quote comes from the Woodworkersworld.net website about the 3/4 inch cut diameter bits "***Whiteside recommends the 1 1/8" dia. tools in the 1/2" shank whenever possible due to the fragile nature of the B19 bearing." Has anybody experienced problems with the smaller bearing? I doubt it will be an issue given relatively light use it will get for guitar building but I just thought I would check. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MP63 Posted July 29, 2006 Report Share Posted July 29, 2006 I bought a 1/4" thick piece of Lexan or plexiglass (what ever they sell) from the Home Depot. It is sold in 24" x 24" pieces. I trimmed it to the size I wanted and it worked fantastic. The hardest part is cutting it when it keeps melting, but once done clean and straight, works like a charm. I figure, how many different guitar pockets will I be making? You can then keep the bit you have. If you want to see what I did, e-mail me, as I don't kbnow how to post a pictrure on this site yet. Mike mperez25@socal.rr.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarageRocker Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 Hydrogeoman, the bearing is a non-issue here because the 2" cutting length bit is only available in a 3/4" cut diameter bit anyway. That language is right out of Whiteside's company catalog, but there's not a problem with the bearing. It's just that a 3/4" OD bearing with a 1/2" ID is obviously more fragile than a 1 1/8" OD bearing with a 1/2" ID. Even though you're typically taking lighter cuts with a template bit, you could be using as much as 2" of cutting length at some point and that puts a load on the bearing even with a light cut. So the 3/4"bearing won't last as long. But replacing bearings is just another maintenance cost to me, like resharpening or replacing bits and blades. It's a good ideea to have a bearing repair kit or at least a spare or two in the sizes you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted July 30, 2006 Report Share Posted July 30, 2006 +1. Any bearing with narrow walls will be relatively fragile, and easier to cook. I bore out 90% of my neck pocket with a forstner bit, then use use a template bushing to route within 2mm or so off my final pocket size, and finally use a freud kitchen fitters bit to cut the finished pocket. I run the shank of the cutter against the rails of my neck jig - no bearing to worry about, but you do have to keep the bit moving or you'll burn the rails. The kitchen fitter bit is 0.5" shank and cut, 2" cutting depth and plenty of shank length to grip it by - about 3.5" length overall. The freud pro cutters are great quality, and best of all, it was on special offer at screwfix - less than £10! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydrogeoman Posted August 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2006 +1. Any bearing with narrow walls will be relatively fragile, and easier to cook. I bore out 90% of my neck pocket with a forstner bit, then use use a template bushing to route within 2mm or so off my final pocket size, and finally use a freud kitchen fitters bit to cut the finished pocket. I run the shank of the cutter against the rails of my neck jig - no bearing to worry about, but you do have to keep the bit moving or you'll burn the rails. The kitchen fitter bit is 0.5" shank and cut, 2" cutting depth and plenty of shank length to grip it by - about 3.5" length overall. The freud pro cutters are great quality, and best of all, it was on special offer at screwfix - less than £10! Setch - thanks for the tips. I like the idea of a less expensive bit to get the job done! (although I ordered a Whitesides bit that was discussed above over the weekend). On a side note - how about posting your laminate bending method for pegheads with some pics one of these days? Cheers Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted August 2, 2006 Report Share Posted August 2, 2006 Soon - soon! I have photos taken of about 80% of the process, but still need to glue up and trim the veneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB7539 Posted August 8, 2006 Report Share Posted August 8, 2006 I bought a 1/4" thick piece of Lexan or plexiglass (what ever they sell) from the Home Depot. It is sold in 24" x 24" pieces. I trimmed it to the size I wanted and it worked fantastic. The hardest part is cutting it when it keeps melting, but once done clean and straight, works like a charm. I figure, how many different guitar pockets will I be making? You can then keep the bit you have. If you want to see what I did, e-mail me, as I don't kbnow how to post a pictrure on this site yet. Mike mperez25@socal.rr.com Spray a little WD40 on the bit before (and depending on size, during) and it will help to keep the bit cool enough so it won't melt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MP63 Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 I bought a 1/4" thick piece of Lexan or plexiglass (what ever they sell) from the Home Depot. It is sold in 24" x 24" pieces. I trimmed it to the size I wanted and it worked fantastic. The hardest part is cutting it when it keeps melting, but once done clean and straight, works like a charm. I figure, how many different guitar pockets will I be making? You can then keep the bit you have. If you want to see what I did, e-mail me, as I don't kbnow how to post a pictrure on this site yet. Mike mperez25@socal.rr.com Spray a little WD40 on the bit before (and depending on size, during) and it will help to keep the bit cool enough so it won't melt. It wasn't the router bit that made it melt, it was the jig saw when I was cutting the template itself.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyB7539 Posted August 9, 2006 Report Share Posted August 9, 2006 I bought a 1/4" thick piece of Lexan or plexiglass (what ever they sell) from the Home Depot. It is sold in 24" x 24" pieces. I trimmed it to the size I wanted and it worked fantastic. The hardest part is cutting it when it keeps melting, but once done clean and straight, works like a charm. I figure, how many different guitar pockets will I be making? You can then keep the bit you have. If you want to see what I did, e-mail me, as I don't kbnow how to post a pictrure on this site yet. Mike mperez25@socal.rr.com Spray a little WD40 on the bit before (and depending on size, during) and it will help to keep the bit cool enough so it won't melt. It wasn't the router bit that made it melt, it was the jig saw when I was cutting the template itself.. Ahh.. then try a 10t jigsaw bit on slow speed with WD40... it takes a while though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted August 11, 2006 Report Share Posted August 11, 2006 Lexan and plexi can be cut with a special knive and a clean twist, after that you use the router to shape it. You can use a jigsaw, but what for? Is so much cleaner and easier with the router! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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