fryovanni Posted October 31, 2006 Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 Looks like a nice clean fit on the rosette. Nice . Looks like some bracing work is just around the corner . Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted October 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 Looks like a nice clean fit on the rosette. Nice . Looks like some bracing work is just around the corner . Peace,Rich Yep. I'm drawing out the bracing on my paper template as we speak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted October 31, 2006 Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 Looks like a nice clean fit on the rosette. Nice . Looks like some bracing work is just around the corner . Peace,Rich Yep. I'm drawing out the bracing on my paper template as we speak. Not sure how you are shaping the radius side of you braces, but this is a handy little jig I built(got the idea from the OLF tools/jigs section). click. One side has your back rad. the other has your top rad. Works real nice with a router and template bit. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted October 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 (edited) Not sure how you are shaping the radius side of you braces, Well I wasn't 100% sure. Thanks for the jig. I got all the braces drawn out on the paper (and I transferd onto the wood) as per the books instructions and it looks good. Maybe I missed it or just incrediabley stupid, but how do you make a radiused dish to put the top/back in while the braces get glued on? Or is there another way to get the braces glued on with the top being held the correct radius that I'm not aware of? Edited October 31, 2006 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted October 31, 2006 Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 Build some radius dishes - a quick google/look around the MIMF archives will show you how to do it. Pretty simple, jig-wise. You also want to have your sides bent, your rims sanded, lining installed, before you start bracing top and back; I aim to braces, carve, tune and glue the box together within 2 days of gluing down the first brace. Quick picture of my radius dish setup: The router goes along some guides, replaceable, and the dish pivots around a bolt I've got clamped in my workmate. Route, turn the dish, route s'more, turn s'more, etc. etc. etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted October 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 You also want to have your sides bent, your rims sanded, lining installed, before you start bracing top and back; I aim to braces, carve, tune and glue the box together within 2 days of gluing down the first brace. Okay now that I diddn't know. Thanks for telling me that before I braced (luckally the only thing I did was draw it out). So I guess I'm pressing pause on bracing and starting on the sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 If your wood's perfectly perfectly stable, your relative humidity and temp don't shift at all, it shouldn't matter overmuch. However, you're gluing sticks onto thin planks with a built-in arch, so there's always a risk of potato-chip city if either humidity or temp decide to shift around a little. So...yeah. Better get the side bending stuff out the way. Plus, that way, you get to brace, tune and close the box within a weekend. Quite a rush ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted November 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 update, I'm working on my sidebender (should be done friday-ish) I got all the braces pre shaped and radioused and the headblock and tailblock completely shaped and ready to glue. I orderd a bunch of long reach cam clamps from stewmac because right now nothing I have will reach. I also got the heelblock glued on the neck blank. I was doing tests earlier this week on a new finish, krystal clear, and it looks really amazing on the spruce and the rosewood. I can't wait to see this guitar finished! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 I also got the heelblock glued on the neck blank. Before you bend the sides...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 I think he is talking about the neck heal. Unless he is building Spanish style. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted November 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 (edited) Right, I ment the chunk of mahogany that the neck heel will be carved out of. The neckblock is most certinly -not- glued onto the neck Guess I should get the terminology right Edited November 9, 2006 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 I think he is talking about the neck heal. OK. Stacked heel. The jargon is coming along Godin, hey you've already made miles of progress on that spelling thing....unlike Rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted November 9, 2006 Report Share Posted November 9, 2006 I think he is talking about the neck heal. OK. Stacked heel. The jargon is coming along Godin, hey you've already made miles of progress on that spelling thing....unlike Rich. Erik you egghead bugger . Leave my spelling alone. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted November 12, 2006 Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 I love the Redneck Rosette Router setup! Ive been going nuts trying to figure out if I should get a dremel kit (cant find the older good one you see in books, just the crappy cheap ones they use now) or if I should get a larger drill press to accomodate the 6" hole center, or this or that..... I have a Foredom. Any special treatment you made for it? How do you adjust the size of the circles? Thats what I want to go with!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 A pretty interesting take Godin. I actually had real good results using the method in the Cumpiano book; drill a series of 1/16" holes in the base plate of your router and use the drill bit as a pin around which the router pivots around the center of the soundhole. You can also drill another series of 1/16" holes offset by 1/16" from the first series of holes, to give you more flexibility in the radii that you rout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 I use a general tools 8" circle cutter with a couple custom cutters I made. I can get any diameter, and min. slot width is 1/32". It is a little different than what most people use, but has worked well for me. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 If you want to cut down on tear out, you can use shellac or sanding sealer.! I also shellac and wood glue the endgrain to keep from splitting. Works great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted November 14, 2006 Report Share Posted November 14, 2006 If you want to cut down on tear out, you can use shellac or sanding sealer.! I also shellac and wood glue the endgrain to keep from splitting. Works great Where and when? or is that just a general comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted November 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 (edited) I just measured from the cutting bit and put the nail in the right spot. There is no adjustiability there, but thats fine for this jig. before I do the next acoustic I'll make an ajustable jig. I test bent some strips of rosewood and it went great. It's very easy to do and I didn't burn the wood at all. Quick update. I finished tuning all the braces and the top sounds great, I think, I'm still not sure if what I'm hearing is going to make a good guitar, but the tap tone sure sounds good So now I'm off to go bend the sides. Edited November 16, 2006 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted November 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Okay I'm pretty pissed off at this metal pipe. I can't seem to get it perfect. Anyone have instructions to build a side bending machine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 With 0.074" rosewood (only slightly thinner than what I had), the pipe should go pretty smoothly. I went through ~3 sets of mandolin sides (much tighter bends!) before I felt like I had the pipe dialed in (LMI electric pipe). You'll still need the pipe for tweeking. That said, the side bending form is dead easy. Use 3/4" birch ply, draw the bass-half of your design on it with the centerline 4" to 6" away from one straight edge (which will become the "bottom"). Screw the first piece down onto a second piece with countersunk drywall screws; if you're going with a heating blanket(s), then draw a second profile just 1/16" inside the first (to take into account the thickness of the blanket). Bandsaw and edge-sand (or rout to a template) the pieces screwed together, so that they are exact copies of each other. Then you can go about planning how it will go together; I used 1/4-20 6" long hex bolts but you may want 7" long, as I am wishing my form were slightly wider (when you bend bindings with the sides); these bolts pass through spacers made from 1" diameter aluminum pipe (think electrical conduit) that are 4-1/2" long (you may want to go with 5" long). While the sides are still screwed together, go to the drill press and drill the holes for your bolts. My pipe spacers sit in shallow recesses (1/8" deep) on the inside walls that are centered on the bolt holes, the recesses were drilled with a forstner bit. You want the edge of those spacers to be perfectly flush with the edge of the form, otherwise you will end up with cupped sides. Then slap it together (use washers) and Bob's yer uncle. I made one this way, then made another with the shoulder removable, so that you could plug in a regular bass-side shoulder, a venetian cutaway, or a florentine cutaway. Here's a pic with the regular shoulder form in place: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v241/boj...tic/bender1.jpg Here's one with a florentine cutaway form in place; the smaller shoulder modules are put together just like the big form, and I just screw them down through blocks attached to the sides with my fave drywall screws. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v241/boj...tic/bender2.jpg As you can see, I didn't get too complicated with the clamping arrangement to hold down the waist and cutaway, I iterated to that method by trial and error (going through 2 sets of walnut practice sides before I was happy enought to bend the good stuff). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted November 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 (edited) Thanks for the help. The pipe bends the rosewood just fine, I just can't get the stupid side to match my template perfectly. Edited March 16, 2007 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Are you working in a mould? Side bending isn't easy! Just take your time and be systematic. My first set of guitar sides took me 2 full days to get perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Are you working in a mould? Side bending isn't easy! Just take your time and be systematic. My first set of guitar sides took me 2 full days to get perfect ....which is why he's doin' the wise thing and building a bender :-) I admit I figure I should try some hand bending, particularly for cutaways, but making tools that make shaping reliable and accurate and repeatable is a good idea. Same reason I made radius dishes. Also, making a bender takes an afternoon, maybe a day if you take it nice and slow. I've hand-bent binding for a double-cut electric on a hot pipe. Flamed maple binding. Now that's evil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Don't get me wrong, I plan to make one too! I'm glad I've done a few "by hand" though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.