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I'm thinking about building an acoustic guitar now that I've finished my first electric and I've decided to first start out with a kit, since it actually seems relatively simple.

Now, I'm going to go with a kit with Mahogany backs and sides, as generally the Rosewood kits cost much more, and as a first attempt I don't want to go all out.

I wanted to know if you folks think I should buy the kit from Stewmac , which is 365 and clear that it comes with no tuners and clear that I'm getting a dovetail neck, or should I go with the kit from Martin that isn't clear on the neck construction or the inclusion of tuners, but is 350 and is made by Martin?

Which is the smarter way to go. It's only a 15 dollar difference, so I'm really not concerned about the price. Which kit would YOU, Mr/Mrs Acoustic builder, buy if you were looking for a quick build for yourself?

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I'm thinking about building an acoustic guitar now that I've finished my first electric and I've decided to first start out with a kit, since it actually seems relatively simple.

Now, I'm going to go with a kit with Mahogany backs and sides, as generally the Rosewood kits cost much more, and as a first attempt I don't want to go all out.

I wanted to know if you folks think I should buy the kit from Stewmac , which is 365 and clear that it comes with no tuners and clear that I'm getting a dovetail neck, or should I go with the kit from Martin that isn't clear on the neck construction or the inclusion of tuners, but is 350 and is made by Martin?

Which is the smarter way to go. It's only a 15 dollar difference, so I'm really not concerned about the price. Which kit would YOU, Mr/Mrs Acoustic builder, buy if you were looking for a quick build for yourself?

Just as extra options... John Hall offers kits and can be very helpful-click

LMI is also a great place to look. They offer plenty of options also-click

I can't make a specific recomendation as I never used a kit. There are several tools and jigs that are pretty good ideas. Most of which can be made by yourself. The jigs are what really make your acoustics go better and with better accuracy. A kit will allow you to avoid bending, most of your neck building. That will help you focus on assembling the box. After you get your kit and have read through instructions(video/book or ??). Post up again and maybe we can add some jig,methods and what have ya.

Peace,Rich

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Well, I had ordered it, and I don't live too far from Athens and packages usually get here pretty fast, but when it starts looking like this outside within 2 hours:

IM000177.jpg

... and doesn't stop coming down, it takes our postal service a bit longer. :D It stopped snowing for about an hour here, but Lake Erie just keeps producing more and more.

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This should be interesting. Could you take a few extra pics of the sides, braces, and what not. People ask about these kits all the time, but I have never looked really close at the individual pieces as they come shipped. Also, could you give some info on some of the specs. Such as radius of the top and back, maybe take a caliper to the top, back and sides(curious about thickness). Looks like a lot of good parts. I am sure it will be a fun build.

Peace,Rich

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Yeah, they'll sand out no problem. They're actually moisture stains from the steam bending.

I've actually scorched walnut so that its almost black, a thin layer that sands right off with 220. Best to avoid it tho, when you go to bend your own.

Gack! That photo through the screen gives me a headache!

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Rich, being without a caliper and a micrometer limits my measuring abilities. I use to have an old manual micrometer sitting around that I swore by, but it has since come up missing. Looks like I'll have to dig into the pockets again to start getting some accurate readouts.

Just from measuring it with a ruler I'd say it's between 1/16 and 3/32 of an inch thick.

Edited by matttheguy
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Okay guys, quick question on the x braces.

Simply put, I messed them up.

About half of the each brace was scalloped and the other half was full height. They were supposed to cross at a point where they were both full height, but I misread the blueprints and crossed them where they were scalloped, like this:

1-31-07XBraces.jpg

Did I just ruin the guitar?

Another view can be seen here.

Other than that, things are going good. Most back braces are on, sides are glued up and kerfing is all good. Pictures can be seen here.

Thanks.

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Okay guys, quick question on the x braces.

Simply put, I messed them up.

About half of the each brace was scalloped and the other half was full height. They were supposed to cross at a point where they were both full height, but I misread the blueprints and crossed them where they were scalloped, like this:

1-31-07XBraces.jpg

Did I just ruin the guitar?

Another view can be seen here.

Other than that, things are going good. Most back braces are on, sides are glued up and kerfing is all good. Pictures can be seen here.

Thanks.

You have got an issue there. Everything from the waist up is about strength. The main x braces need to be strongest from the bridge up. Can you remove the braces from the soundboard(I am assuming this is not going to be easy). You may want to grab a new soundboard and whip up a new set of braces. It is possible to remove braces with a chisel and drum sander, but the radius makes it tricky.

Peace,Rich

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IMO, you don't need a new soundboard at all. A sharp chisel, some sandpaper, and a little care will make those braces nothing more than a bad memory. New brace wood is cheap, as are a chisel and sandpaper at the local hardware (which you need anyway). Consider it good skill practice for your next build.

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If you can tell me what the dimensions of the braces are at the x (width and height), and the thickness of the top(I am assuming it is .110" +/- .010. I could give you a more confident answer. Like I said before. The bracing is intentionally stronger above the waist. This is because this area is being forced to collapse, and the area below the waste is the area that you can play with a bit more. I am sure pre-carved braces are a bit heavy, but without dimensions I can't give you a good recommendation.

As far as removing braces with a chisel and sandpaper. That will not only be time consuming, but there is a good chance you will thin the top sanding away the titebond(I am assuming you didn't use HHG). Believe me it is easy to have something like this happen. I actually glued all my back braces on the wrong side once(now I felt pretty good about that as the back was not replacable :D ). I started to chisel them away, but stopped and ran it through my drum sander slowely bringing them down and it actually worked(I got lucky).

Peace,Rich

Bracing can be done differently depending on design- This is a Modified X that sounded pretty good and has structurally held up well-

DSCF0389.JPG

Edited by fryovanni
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untitledrl7.png

Those are some rough dimensions. You can see though, from the pictures, that it's not solid stock the entire way to the top, it tapers at those high points. I'm sure you know this already though, just stating for principle, though.

Here's a side angle of the soundboard.

And you can see a picture of the braces alone here

By the way, all those black marks that look like gaps are just pencil marks yet to be sanded. I can assure you everything is glued tight. And yes, I did use Titebond.

Didn't read you wanted the top thickness. Measuring it with a straightedge - no caliper or mic - it looks about 1/8 thick. I'm willing to say its probably around .120 - .125.

Edited by matttheguy
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untitledrl7.png

Those are some rough dimensions. You can see though, from the pictures, that it's not solid stock the entire way to the top, it tapers at those high points. I'm sure you know this already though, just stating for principle, though.

Here's a side angle of the soundboard

.

And you can see a picture of the braces alone here

To be honest I think you will be pushing it. You can see in that picture I posted that I toy with the configuration a bit(even drilled out the braces). The main thing I have found is that height is strength. Even after drilling the area near the X I found I lost very little strength. The place that the X is joined at yours is about 50% the height I shoot for. The X bears a lot of stress, and the main braces also carry vibration. You also have to remember over time the torque of the bridge and string tension will work to collapse the soundhole area(and raise the area behind the bridge). Overtime this leads to neck re-sets.

I would give Stew Mac a call and tell them what happened. Ask how much they would charge to help you out. They might make you a deal because you just bought the kit.

Peace,Rich

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