jammy Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Removing just the braces isn't difficult. A nice sharp chisel will get most of it off, then finish up with a scraper and some sandpaper. I would expect it's a 30 min job, then it's just a case of getting some more bracing wood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 That is two votes for chisel and sand away. I have tried this thinking it would be a quick job(if you guys have tried this offer your suggestions on how you would go about avoiding damage), but the radius and protecting the surface made it a bit tougher than I expected. It is certainly worth a shot though before you spend any money on a new soundboard. I would suggest a couple things. First if you have a radiused dish place the soundboard on it so you have something supporting the radiused top. Second use a small plane if you have one to take the bulk of the material down without risking a scratch in the soundboard. As soon as you can take the bracing down enough that the top starts losing its radius transfer it to a flat surface. Then hit it with a scraper(be sure the outer edges of the scraper don't dig in to the soundboard as it will not want to lay flat. I wouldn't move to sandpaper until the bracing has last of the bracing has become almost transperant. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 1, 2007 Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 Chiseling should work fine (I've done it with finger braces), but make sure you use your chisel properly, ie bevel DOWN. Prevents it from wanting to dig into the wood, and allows more control of depth. Bit of sanding should take care of the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I will probably attempt to weaken the Titebond first, as I've done in the past in other mis-glues, but if it requires any force whatsoever, I'm scrapping that idea. I'll probably end up chiseling them off and: Matthew, Thank you for contacting us. Removal of the braces is likely the best choice. A heat gun can be used, keep it moving to avoid scorching the wood. If you find you can't salvage the braces, let us know, we can ship replacements. Let me know if I can provide further assistance. Best Regards, Erick Coleman Technical Advisor Stewart-MacDonald Good to know that StewMac has my back when I slip up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted February 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 Alright, so the top is fixed now and basically completed. For the linings, how do you guys sand them? Stewmac's book that comes with this kit says to take a sanding stick and attach a 5 degree angled block to one side and a 1.5 degree angled block to the other. I'm just curious if there are any other ways to go about this? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 18, 2007 Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 Alright, so the top is fixed now and basically completed. For the linings, how do you guys sand them? Stewmac's book that comes with this kit says to take a sanding stick and attach a 5 degree angled block to one side and a 1.5 degree angled block to the other. I'm just curious if there are any other ways to go about this? Thanks. Matt, I mark the kerfing so I can see how the sanding is going-click I center my sanding dish and rotate it back and forth(this is pretty quick)-click Finished- Radius Dishses are not to hard to make or you can buy them. I use them for glueing braces, sanding rims, and make great tables for holding bodies. I consider them a must have(IMO of course). Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted March 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2007 Do you have to glue on the top or the back first. Is it better one way than the other? Stewmac's directions say to put on the top first, but I'm just curious as to whether this is preference or integral to the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 I glue my backs on first for a simple reason. When you look through the soundhole you'll see the back - and I like to be able to clean up any glue squeeze out inside the body. If glue squeezes out round the top it doesn't matter as much - I won't see it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 I generally prefer to do the top first. I like to take one more opportunity to adjust the bracing(after it is attached to the rim, as it really acts differently when you attach it to the rim). I find the outer edges and bracing may not act just as you wanted when the kerfing and soundboard are in their final position(the same could be said for the back, but I put a lower priority on it and I can get to the braces through the soundhole with relative ease). It is a nice bit of extra control you add to the build. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 I'm seriously considering access panels (in the tail) so I can fiddle with bracing and the like after completion. If only as a learning tool, allowing me to see in real-world situations what adjusting braces does to sound, without requiring restringing and arm gymnastics to wriggle through the soundhole. I've put the top on first in my builds, for the reasons Rich states; I've got enough practice applying too much titebond, so I can usually limit the squeezout to pretty much nothing these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 I'm more than happy to adjust bracing through the soundhole as I feel the practice should be useful. The access panel idea is one I've thought of often, though. Removable/replaceable tops would be the ultimate though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 I'm more than happy to adjust bracing through the soundhole as I feel the practice should be useful. The access panel idea is one I've thought of often, though. Removable/replaceable tops would be the ultimate though I have thought about making a test rig with a removable top also(it would be a very cool learning tool). I just have to quit being lazy and do it . Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Check out a guy named Wade over at the OLF. He does some really out there designs, and if you search around, you'll find he has one with a rear access panel (mainly cause he had a lute style permanent soundhole cover which didn't allow access to the bolting on of the neck). His Site Guitar With Access Panel Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matttheguy Posted March 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Well, mattia, that's just my problem. Whatever work I did before and after college was tool and die, rarely any wood work, so I'm not that good yet. I apply it pretty liberally and the squeeze out is just as generous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Well, mattia, that's just my problem. Whatever work I did before and after college was tool and die, rarely any wood work, so I'm not that good yet. I apply it pretty liberally and the squeeze out is just as generous. Well give it time. After you get sick and tired of wiping glue(and lord you will wipe a lot more building acoustics). You will learn to be more conservative. That is one of the things I like about solid bodies over acoustics(fewer glue joints). One big plus to HHG also. As it is sooooo much easier to clean up. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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