Jump to content

I Can Help You With Your Kahler Questions.


Recommended Posts

Hi!

Im building 7-string neck-thru guitar and Im planing to put Kahler 2327 tremolo in it. I dont have that yet but I would need dimensions for its locking nut. I tried to find those dimensions from everywhere but didnt manage to find them. If you could help it would be great.

Edited by Rudolph
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 150
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Has anyone ever used a Kahler Trem w/ out the locking nut? I have a hard tail that I was thinking of converting w/ the flush mount trem, but I don't want to modify my neck to put a locking nut on. I already have locking tuners, so I am thinking that should be enough. What do you guys think... good idea or bad idea? I would appreciate any advice!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone ever used a Kahler Trem w/ out the locking nut? I have a hard tail that I was thinking of converting w/ the flush mount trem, but I don't want to modify my neck to put a locking nut on. I already have locking tuners, so I am thinking that should be enough. What do you guys think... good idea or bad idea? I would appreciate any advice!

there was this dude on youtube (some german luthier) who used the 2300 with no locking nut, only locking tuners and graphite nut (graphtech)

here's a quote from a guy who works for Neal Moser

I do like using a Floyd locking nut because I think they work better but I know guys that don't use a locking nut at all, instead they use a graphite nut and locking tuners. I prefer the locking nut though.

and other quote from a kahler user:

If you have a Floyd locking nut, or a Kahler string lock you can still go out of tune if the nut sucks... the nut needs to be graphite or made from something high grade

hope it can helps and let us know how's it goin (at least i wanna know everything bout kahlers till i can buy one)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

locknut.jpg

hey wammi, can I get a replacement for this locknut. It is on a 84 explorer with a factory kahler, the locknut sucks but I would rather not put any extra holes in my axe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Most of you don't know me. Those that do,.. know me as John at Kahler Parts. I am the Parts, Service and Support head at Kahler USA.

If anyone needs some Kahler questions answered I'll be glad to help you. Its my job.

If you want to hear a Kahler live, or need some 1 on 1 help, I will be happy to call you on the phone or better yet...If your able, i can Skype or MSN messenger you with my PC video camera and give you a E-jam Lol. Privately email me at wammi@wammiusa.com

I will arrange with you a private showing of the range and sound.

If any of you out there are familiar with streaming live or videos that can be displayed on the web, please email me. I am unfamiliar in this territory but I am anxious to post lessons and demos of the sound, ranges and techniques ect. I need some expert video posting guidence here.

Wammi J

www.wammiusa.com (951) 541-2387

www.kahlerparts.com (760) 494-5969

:D

Hey im planning to attatch a Hybrid 7300 bridge to an Epiphone G400 Custom, could u offer any advice or ideas on how 2 do this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Wammi J...

I have just completed my telecaster project with too many features to mention just yet...watch out for a thread and possibly a GOTM entry soon (I want to get some sounds out of it)...but here is a sneak peak of the kahler on it...

bluetelebridge.jpg

I have been so impressed with it that I got a stud version for my next project. I tend to use it for a bit of bigsby like shimmer which it does really well and the hybrid model makes it so much easier to tune and restring. The design allows palm muting without risk of going sharp as a lot of floating trems are prone to do. Even though I don't use extreme bends that much, it does have the range of a floyd and comes back in tune every time.

As for a locking nut, I don't like them myself but my next project will have to have one. On this guitar I fitted an LSR roller nut and staggered locking schaller/fender tuners and it works great. You need to have a straight string pull like a fender though for this to be effective, otherwise I think a locking nut is necessary. The unit comes complete with a pretty good one that wont lose the screws...always an important feature.

Care needs to be taken with installation...there are some good tips in Dan Erlwines GP repair guide. An important one is that the front screw holes are not equally spaced. Apparently this is done on purpose to replace onto strats. It is important not to use these or the front of the unit to detirmine the centre line...use the template and mark accordingly. Make a woodn template to guide the router and drill out to the required depth most of the wood using the router to clean up in shallow passes. Take care to protect the finish!

You also need a fair height on the saddles to get the pressure required on the rollers. I use 10-46 strings and I still find the high e sounds a little weaker than the others and it was resting on the screw behind the rollers even with the height shown in the pictures. Fortunately on a tele you can shim the neck a little, on a custom set neck you will be wanting to watch that. The stud version works fine though on an LP.

These trems are not cheap but they are good and I have bought three now and the service from Wammi World has been great. I have seen quite a few on ebay often as much or more than new...so be careful. The hybrid thing is really worth having and I suspect over time the springs my stretch and bearings could wear so secondhand is possibly false economy too. The chrome work is second to none but I have not seen the black or gold ones so can not vouch for those.

So very happy with these units and I hope these tips help a little and give a little confidence in the things...

pete

PS...these things work great with a sustainer as in use the bridge stays put so the strings don't rise as with a floating trem keeping them an equal distance from the pickups and driver for a completely consistent sound even with extreme bends.

PPS...compared to a lot of bridges, they offer very good string definition (you hear every note clearly in a chord), something lacking in a lot of "cast" bridges.

Edited by psw
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You also need a fair height on the saddles to get the pressure required on the rollers. I use 10-46 strings and I still find the high e sounds a little weaker than the others and it was resting on the screw behind the rollers even with the height shown in the pictures.

psw..I went to Ace hardware and bought replacement screws with a flat top,rather than the convex heads on the ones that come with the unit...these solved that problem.You can alsofind them in three colors...blacvk,silver,and brass...which come much closer to matcing the color of the trems...I prefer that to having black screws on a silver or gold trem...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You also need a fair height on the saddles to get the pressure required on the rollers. I use 10-46 strings and I still find the high e sounds a little weaker than the others and it was resting on the screw behind the rollers even with the height shown in the pictures.

psw..I went to Ace hardware and bought replacement screws with a flat top,rather than the convex heads on the ones that come with the unit...these solved that problem.You can alsofind them in three colors...blacvk,silver,and brass...which come much closer to matcing the color of the trems...I prefer that to having black screws on a silver or gold trem...

Thanks...Being in Australia, I am not familiar with "Ace Hardware". Have you (or Wammi J) any idea what the size and thread for these screws are. I don't mind that the screws are black, but the slight domed thing is a bit of a fault. It can make a significant difference on the one string it is happening on and something that I would like to fix.

I would also like to replace the Hybrid screw with some kind of finger friendly Allen bolt with a head on it, perhaps not on this model (a little close to the surface of the guitar) but on the stud version which might have more clearance.

It would be great to be able to lock the bridge without tools. Besides string changing, if you want to change tuning, it might be good to be able to easily lock it and so drop the D string say without all the others going out or you want to do any radical double stop bends or what have you...even breaking a string with a floating trem is going to put the whole guitar out and the locking feature would fix all that, is on there, but not easily accessible. Just a thought!

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

hey i have 2 questions...

1. On the new hybrid Kahlers how much routing is needed. is it rear routed like fender strats? or just top routed a little bit?

2. Also because the whammy/ tremolo bar comes up between the E and B string. When you do divebombs etc does the bar touch the strings?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
Hello

I have a custom (handmade) guitar with fixed bridge and I would like to have a tremolo on it

I'm not quite sure which one I need so here is my specs:

- tune-o-matic bridge

- flat top

- neck angle

- stratocaster headstock

- individual string spacing : 0,410 "

- e to E string spacing: 2,02 "

Basically it's almost a LP style guitar but with a flat top surface so I don't know if have to choose a 2200 / 7200 serie to use my t-o-m studs but my body is not ached or the 2300 /7300 series for flat top but I won't be able to use the studs.

Help me

i'd say the 2200/7200, since u already have the holes for the posts.

but first check your neck angle, if you have a typical Les-Paul neck angle, then go with the X200. if your geetar is flat-top and have almost no neck angle (sorta Tele or Strato), then go with the X300.If you go with the X300, u'll have to cover those nasty holes where tune-o-matics used to be. Go with the X200. (is only my advice)

I'm still hesitating between a 7200 or a 7300 kahler, on the website it says that it's only 50% chance that my existing studs are at the good position to install the 7200. If not I'll have to make new holes and relocate the studs to install the trem... If it's the case then I'd rather go for the 7300 directly...

My body was pre-drilled by warmoth (scale 25 1/2, flat top and t-o-m) and here are the measurements of the bridge: (maybe wammi wil be able to tell me if it's going to work with the 7200?)

bridgeroutingbz6.gif

w309.png

thanks

Edited by nicoyabe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys! I am planning my next guitar project (a Meanie Green style guitar) and I want to put in either a Kahler Spyder or a Kahler Killer. I have the option to get the body with a recessed Floyd Rose bridge route (of course with the Lion's Claw, with or without the holes for the posts). Will the bridges mentioned above fit the FR route (I will drill the posts myself) or will I have to get the body with no bridge routing or with a hardtail and then try to figure out how to route the bridge cavity myself? Also, these bridges need the Kahler SD Locking Nuts or some other locking nut?

Thanks in advance!

Edited by iSoto
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

I'm working on my new guitar, an LP with Kahler, and was able to track down a thumb screw of the right thread (thanks to wammi world for the size...6/32) to replace the allen bolt grub screw that normally locs the kahler...

kahlerlock01.jpg

Likely it would only work on the stud type as you need a little clearance at the back there, but works a treat, just ground down a little on the end, a few turns and it's locked solid and in tune...

Great should you break a string or need a fixed bridge for say altered tunings...which is why i need this solution...

Looks like it was made for it...the pic shows the bridge "unlocked", so in trem mode...the screw goes almost all the way in to be locked solid.

Thanks Wammi J for the tread size...

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Hi there,

I was wondering if anyone here knows the minimum spacing between front and rear posts that one of the T-o-M replacement bridges will fit? I'm contemplating fitting one to an Ibanez guitar I have that has the tail piece mounted really close to the bridge (about 38mm) and I know the recommended distance is larger than this but the kahlers have some amount of adjustment?

I tried emailing Kahler directly and got no reply unfortunately.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think you'll get a reply from this user any more as the domain is no longer valid, and therefore they won't pick up any new reply notifications. I'm surprised that Kahler haven't responded to your query. Westhemann and Demonx are pretty hot on Kahlers though. They can probably help somehow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...