Jon Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 The neck turned out great. I'll have some better pictures of it tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 I love the antique look of that neck, it reminds me of an antique violin or something. The tru-oil looks great. I can't wait to get a chance to use some. CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Don't forget I dyed it first! The first picture up there is with the dye with no oil over it. My friend loved this finish so much, he's having me do the same finish but with a black dye on his Jackson Dinky. Also, my friend mentioned it would be funny to take a picture infront of the "little boy peeing" statue. He was correct! So here's the photos in correct order: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 How does it feel? I gotta say it looks amazing. Please get us pics when you do your friends neck also. By the way I think the little boy is making the knome need to pee also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattharris75 Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Jon, just to clarify. When you wet sanded, what did you use as your lubricating medium? A water/soap mix or something along those lines, or did you use the tru oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooten2 Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 I didn't know 8 ounce bottles were available. Thanks for that. I have trouble with the oil developing a skin on top before I use up a 3 ounce bottle. You can break through the skin and get to the oil underneath, but then you also get little blobs of oil skin on your project that you have to remove. I guess how fast you use it up depends on how many coats and how many projects you have going. For large volumes of work, the bigger bottle would be great. Wal Mart is like 2 blocks from my house, so factoring in driving costs or shipping costs to save a couple of bucks on a bigger bottle, I don't know that it would save much $ for me, but I certainly see your point. That neck looks very nice! Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Jon, just to clarify. When you wet sanded, what did you use as your lubricating medium? A water/soap mix or something along those lines, or did you use the tru oil? Strictly hot water. After sanding it for about 20-30 seconds, I'd run over it with a paper towel to pull all the oil off so it doesn't dry on that way. I'll probably do dove soap and water next time, think that's where I screwed up this time around. I've always used dove soap / water in the past, but I was afraid that might screw something up with the oil. We'll see! Thanks guys, he should be dropping his guitar off sometime soon. It will be done in less than one week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 How does it feel? Hard to explain. But it doesn't feel dense like a nitro laquer or poly finish. It feels extremely solid, like some of the more expensive furniture with a varnish finish out there. The feel is exactly what I've been looking for a neck finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 The back of my Thunderbird neck feels like wax fossilised into glass....the polish I got was mirror-like but I wasn't good enough to do this over the entire bass. I'll be refinishing in black anyway - the Truoil made a great grain filler! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Got the guitar an hour ago and just got the chance to take it apart. I'm not sure when I'll have time to work on it, but I'll have it complete before this upcoming Thursday. We've decided on a black dye. Should look kickass when I complete it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarter Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 I have trouble with the oil developing a skin on top before I use up a 3 ounce bottle. You can break through the skin and get to the oil underneath, but then you also get little blobs of oil skin on your project that you have to remove. I've had good luck with just poking a pin hole through the foil for easy dispensing and then storing the bottle upside down when not in use. Any skin that may form is then on the bottom of the bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted June 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Maybe you could also pour the stuff into a more flexible plastic bottle and squeeze out all the air before you cap it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 23, 2007 Report Share Posted June 23, 2007 Like a balloon :-D Sorry - I could just imagine the mess a water-balloon filled with Tru-oil would cause! The perils of an imagination eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted June 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2007 I was thinking more along the lines of a shampoo bottle or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 I never posted progress pictures of my 6-string being finished with tru-oil in this thread, but it came out nice. It's not a very durable finish overall, it has taken a few minor scratches from being played frequently. I still need to wire it, though! The finish definitely turned out great and I highly recommend it if you can't afford spray equipment and several rattle cans. If you want a similar look, stick with satin polyurathane. It's worlds stonger. On note of the Dinky guitar I have been refinishing for my friend, tru-oil is a very poor choice for wood that does not have the grain showing very much. I just couldn't make the tru-oil bring out a nice looking finish with the stuff, and I explained to my friend that tru-oil wasn't made for this kind of finish we're going for. Although it felt very comfortable, I encouraged him to go with a finish change for a better look. So now I'm about to finish it up with some polyurathane, last coat will be going on tomorrow. Definitely exciting, over 15 hours into this neck for free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 (edited) How many coats of Tru-oil is that, Jon? The more the wood soaks up on the first coat, the better it seems. Especially mahogany, which has an unending appetite for the sticky stuff. Subsequent coats just level off the pores and build a better overall finish. I did the Thunderbird in Tru-oil, and despite me being about to refinish it in black, Tru-oil has been a good finish. As you say - not as protective as poly of course! Edited August 25, 2007 by Prostheta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 10+ coats, a little less than half a bottle of tru-oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Sounds like a fair amount. I liken Tru-oil to how a clam makes a pearl, in that very thin layers upon layers of oil build up to create a fairly tough shell. The first coat being the base which permeates the medium on top of which all other layers sit. I sound like a freaking hippy. Someone shoot me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Although this is hardly related to the thread, I'm sure a few of you guys would like to see the final product of the Jackson neck that did not work out with tru-oil. All done refinishing the neck. I've still got a lot of learning to do, but this was good practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Wow not only do your fingerboards grow from those vines, entire guitars do also! Can you get me some of those seeds? I need to plant some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Sure. But it'll take 40+ years to grow and will need a little tampering to make it look this way when fully grown.* *will require a full workshop of tools and dozens of hours of labor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarter Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Here is some Tru Oil on a mahogany maple lap steel I'm finishing up. Pic was taken about 7 - 8 coats in, close to 20 on it now, I'll be polishing it out and stringing it up tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted March 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2008 I've gotten to the point of testing the finish on a mahogany offcut. It's looking good, but I have a question or two: When wet sanding with Tru-oil, are you (speaking to everyone who's done it) wet sanding, then letting the coat dry and sanding most of the wet sanded coat back down, or wet sanding and then scraping off across the grain, or something else? I put on one coat, let it dry, lightly steel wooled, put on another coat, let it dry, lightly steel wooled, wet sanded with 2000 grit and Tru-oil, scraped off across the grain, let it dry (still drying actually). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarter Posted March 12, 2008 Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 When wet sanding with Tru-oil, are you (speaking to everyone who's done it) wet sanding, then letting the coat dry and sanding most of the wet sanded coat back down, or wet sanding and then scraping off across the grain, or something else? To start with, I'll do a good heavy first coat, let dry, then use some 320 / 400 with Tru Oil and work small areas creating a slurry, then wipe / scrape it off cross grain. Once dry, I build coats and level sand with 600 and a little mineral spirits till the last of the little pits are gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted March 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 (edited) Thanks for that. I've been doing some experimenting, had two false starts, but I think I'm on the right track now. First I sanded to 400, put a pretty heavy coat on, then wet sanded with 400 and Tru-oil, but I didn't let the first coat dry enough. Started over, followed Birchwood Casey's instructions (don't do that, by the way!): put on a coat and let the wood absorb as much as it will absorb, wipe off the excess, let it dry for 24 hours, then wet sand with 180 and Tru-oil (that's their suggestion...not a good one at all; I didn't think it would work but tried anyway). Way, way too coarse; left scratches all over the place. I don't know what they're thinking. Going back to plan A, but letting the first coat dry for 24 hours before wet sanding with 400 this time, basically following your advice from there. Edited March 12, 2008 by Rick500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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