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Ergonomic Guitar Build


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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey!

those of you who are interested in a bridge, make your finish preferences known.

I am not planning on using the "tufram" (teflon impregnated hard anodization) coating since it will not match any other gear on the market currently. Once I develop a more complete offering, with string fasteners for the neck, I might use it again.

Easiest for me would be matte or semi-glossy black anodization, or natural aluminium colored anodization, because I now have the connections with a company that can do it. It is also possible to get it chromed or gold plated, although I would have to find a supplier first.

I am planning to do a fixed bridge version and a "single" version, i.e. mounting plates for mounting individual tuners stand-alone, in the first run. Implementing the lessons learned from the FR replacement will require a little more thinking and prototyping on my end.

Please let me know what you would like and I will try to accommodate it ASAP. Don't know the cost just yet, but expect highish (as high as $350) with a damned good warranty policy.

Cheers,

Ola

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Adonized black or adonized aluminum would be my own personal preferences; my headless designs tend not to be things that play well with chrome or gold. Single units would be most appreciated, as I'm experimenting/branching out into fanned fret headless stuff these days. As for pricing, if it's equivalent to ETS pricing I'd most certainly be interested.

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I have to admit, although $350 is perfectly fair (generous, even) for a custom piece, I don't see being able to buy one in the immediate future. Too many other bills coming up to justify it to my fiancee. :D

If I were to get one, though, I'd be more into black also.

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Single units would be most appreciated, as I'm experimenting/branching out into fanned fret headless stuff these days. As for pricing, if it's equivalent to ETS pricing I'd most certainly be interested.

+1

got me thinking about a 8 string, fanned fret headless guitar

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Easiest for me would be matte or semi-glossy black anodization, or natural aluminium colored anodization, because I now have the connections with a company that can do it. It is also possible to get it chromed or gold plated, although I would have to find a supplier first.

Matte black would be preferable, though I could do semi-gloss black as well. Assuming a great warranty, I could do $350; my only concern is durability, since aluminum is a relatively soft metal. (Not to complicate this more, but have you thought about brass? Brass also has a nice tone.)

I'm interested in a fixed-bridge version.

Edited by OM Guitars
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  • 4 weeks later...

Here are a couple of pictures of the neck. I had (I personally think it's a brilliant idea!) the idea to learn small on just making a neck which led to making it "standard" Strat dimensions, which means that you will be able to buy both a neck and a bridge from me to create a truly ergonomic instrument from your favorite!

The routing jig, made from an ironing board:

img_0974-300x400.jpg

The finished positive neck mould:

img_1056-400x300.jpg

img_1061-400x300.jpg

Plenty more pictures on the site as always.

Cheers,

Ola

Edited by Strandberg Guitarworks
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Dave, if you look at the following picture:

img_0975-300x400.jpg

things might become a little clearer.

Looking at the piece with the routing completed:

img_0979-400x300.jpg

may clarify it further.

I simply bolted my piece onto the jig (top picture in original post) then ran the router up and down the ironing board rods, progressively increasing the depth until the full depth had been reached. Then I moved it "up" the width of the bit and ran to the same depth again.

Pucko, great indeed to see someone from Uppsala! My contact details are on my site - feel free to get in touch. Regarding fretwork, there is not necessarily any difference compared to a regular neck. It is possible to slot a fretboard the same way. I am still working out what strategy I will take. I could either glue a wooden fretboard on top or make it as well in carbon fiber/epoxi. I am considering the latter since it will most likely be better in the long run with a single material in the neck. In this case, slotting it would remove most of the strength of it. So, I might remove the tangs from the fret wire and glue the frets on top. This will get rid of some additional weight as well. Only drawback is future fretwork, but it is still possible to grind away old frets and replace with new ones.

Cheers,

Ola

Edited by Strandberg Guitarworks
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Hey there...I just caught on to this thread. Great to see that the original setback hasn't stopped the project!

And...what do I see, a concerted effort to make a sustainer....good for you. Please add your results onto the thread and link the blog and if you need a hand you know where to turn. The F/R circuit was recently modified with a few added components to make it more stable along the lines of what I have always used. Even if you have made the circuit they are not hard to add if necessary.

I have always liked the idea of composite guitars. I am still waiting for someone to come up with a composite neck that has the frets molded in in some way...or perhaps a step board like the old bond guitars, of molded scollops, so much potential if you can get the skills together.

I have also been considering doing a fretless. If your sustainer works out ok, you might be tempted to as the composite idea might lend well to this idea. A sustainer allows for some incredible cello like sounds and glissandos and there is a whole forum dedicated to this instrument.

nice bridge also, I wanted to do something with bridge designs but had very limited success. I thought it should be possible to make a bridge that could alter tunings with levers hidden in a strats tremolo cavity instead of the hipshot trillogy approach...might be another thing to consider as well since you have the skills...

All great stuff, looking forward to seeing lots more...

Pete

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  • 1 month later...

With the using a Floyd Rose speed loader on a headless idea how do you tune it? I know it has special strings but the dont come pretuned haha (do they?) because otherwise there is no other way to tune them....

Also about where to buy them doesn't guitar fetish sell them seperate?

Oh yeah awesome guitar man and I love that bridge to bad i dont have $350 lol

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Hi Cam,

it uses regular strings. You insert them from the rear of the tuner and then lock them at the head with either a Floyd Rose string lock or one that I have designed. That fastener will also be available on a per string basis and can be fastened in a variety of ways and positions, including the original tuner holes, if a regular neck is being converted.

Cheers,

Ola

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Is there a chance that we could see the locking nut and fasteners, you designed?

/Alex

Hi Cam,

it uses regular strings. You insert them from the rear of the tuner and then lock them at the head with either a Floyd Rose string lock or one that I have designed. That fastener will also be available on a per string basis and can be fastened in a variety of ways and positions, including the original tuner holes, if a regular neck is being converted.

Cheers,

Ola

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