Mickguard Posted March 23, 2008 Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 Any last thoughts? Just one: this won't be your last guitar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted March 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 (edited) Hahah, there's no doubt in my mind that you're right! The bassist for our band is weeks away from buying one of the new American Standard Jazz Basses...but he said that if my guitar turns out half decent he wants me to build him a fretless bass. That'll be an adventure! I think I just ran into a confusing problem, though. I notice the nut I'm using is 1.71" wide, and the neck is 2.22" wide at the 22nd (last) fret. I've been debating whether to use the Hipshot, Gotoh, or Gotoh/Wilkinson tremolos, and suddenly I've ran into a "what..the..hell?" moment regarding the string spacing of the bridges. The Gotoh is 2 and 7/32" spaced, the Hipshot is 2.08", and the Gotoh/Wilky is 2 and 1/8. Is this simply going to affect where the bridge is placed? I'm confused now. Thanks! (Also, I'm planning on a DiMarzio Evolution in the bridge, so this affects whether I get it F-Spaced or not) (Also, again, does the spacing on the tremolo cover have to be the same as the bridge) Edited March 23, 2008 by Ryan D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted March 23, 2008 Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 Is this simply going to affect where the bridge is placed? I'm confused now. This is why it's important to have a global idea of all your specs, and to have all your parts on hand before starting the actual build. Because as you figured out, some necks are thinner than others and won't work with wider bridge spacing. I had a Fender MIM neck that was very narrow at the bottom, impossible to fit a US-spaced bridge with it, because the E strings fell off the edges. So if you already have the neck, then you have to buy the bridge to match. But if you have a definite preference for the bridge, then you'll buy the neck (and pickups) accordingly. Of course, you won't always run into this issue, but it's one to be aware of. The bridge gets placed after the neck pocket has been routed and the neck is in place (at least, that's how I prefer it). You then line up the E string saddles with the nut slots so that both strings have plenty of space on the fretboard. I use a laser guide to do this, the laser acts as a guitar string. Oh yeah, Schaller makes bridges that allow you to adjust the string spacing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted March 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 I was originally planning on buying the Hipshot trem (2.08" spread), I guess that still works given that the neck is 2.22" wide at the 22nd fret, so there won't be any string loss. At this point, does it matter if the tremolo cavity cover has a different spread? Thanks, man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted March 23, 2008 Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 I was originally planning on buying the Hipshot trem (2.08" spread), I guess that still works given that the neck is 2.22" wide at the 22nd fret, so there won't be any string loss. At this point, does it matter if the tremolo cavity cover has a different spread? Thanks, man. Yeah, with the narrower bridge, you don't run any risk, it'll fit any neck. I couldn't say about the cover, because I prefer the look of it with no cover. I'm sure you can get the measurements for those too though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted March 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 Just placed my orders! And now I'm $700 less rich Here's everything I ordered! Swamp Ash body blank from Carvin Bolt-on Neck by Carvin (Ebony fretboard, Abalone dot inlays, Tung Oil finish) Black Pearloid Pickguard (H/S/S) from Warmoth Sperzel Trim-Lok Tuners Hipshot Tremolo Bridge Black Pearloid Trem Cover from Warmoth 5-way Superswitch Various potentiometers (two of them are push-pull for stuff with the superswitch) Other electronics stuff and plates (neck plate, jack plate, etc.) I'm excited, and also very nervous! This ended up costing much more than my original predictions for some reason, but oh well! Only more motivation to take my time and be careful. I have not ordered any finishing supplies yet, still thinking about what I need to get. I know I'm getting some black grain filler epoxy, but from that point I'm not entirely sure. I know I want a finish like in Guitarfrenzy's tutorial (http://www.desopolis.com/midwest/Strat12.htm) and also here is a photoshop mockup of what the end result should (hopefully) turn out something like this: Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 Huzzah! I approve Have fun wiring that, my friend. Superswitch and push/pulls. What're you thinking your switching options will be? And what pickups are you thinking? As for tips, I'd look around for a GOOD Strat body template/picture to go with. If you have a Strat kickin' around to begin with, that'll be fantastic too. I almost went crazy enough to buy a spare RG body off Ebay and make a template out of it, for my next build. I still might..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted March 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 (edited) Hah, nice! Not entirely decided on what my switching will be, I think I'll get S-1 switching on one, possibly coil splitting on the humbucker (thinking about the DiMarzio Evolution 2 as a possibility) on another, and for the third, well, I'll stick with normal for now. I'm getting way to confused. Actually, quick question. If I've got two single coils and a HB wired to the same volume, then is it ideal to use a 250k or 500k? I've searched a lot but haven't found a direct answer. I ordered both just so I could try them out when they get here. My friend's got a Mexican Strat that he's ditched ever since he bought that PRS Custom 24, so he's offering to lend that to me. Yesterday I borrowed a projector from UMass and tried tracing a front-on picture on the wall, but that was very, very hard. And painful (on my wrist). Do you have any tips for drawing the template using a real Strat? I can see tracing it as being pretty simple, but from that point is the rest taking measurements? Edited March 25, 2008 by Ryan D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 In my Koch book, he describes taking a golf pencil and a square block of wood. Drill a hole through one side at the right angle, and make the drill bit come out the top of the block. The object is to stick the golf pencil in the hole so its point lines up with the edge/corner of the block. You can then run the block up against the guitar, keeping the pencil at the correct angle to get an accurate outline. It sounds a bit confusing, I wish I could explain it more clearly. Worst comes to worst, I'm pretty positive there are some CAD templates in the downloads section if you make a donation to the site. Actually, scratch that. I'd be surprised if there WEREN'T Strat diagrams in there. I have no interest in a Strat shape myself, so I didn't download any. As for the pot idea, I'm sure there are diagrams of a HSS setup floating around. You can use what you find as an example. Personally, I'd go with the 500, because I like my hums better than single coils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 I've sanded a pencil in half lengthwise to accomplish the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 That was his second recommendation But why would we want to make things easy? PS. Tape up the pencil half afterwards so you don't get graphite on the guitar, and it'll give the template you make just a tad bit more width, for sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Worst comes to worst, I'm pretty positive there are some CAD templates in the downloads section if you make a donation to the site. Actually, scratch that. I'd be surprised if there WEREN'T Strat diagrams in there. There is a CAD strat plan there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 I almost went crazy enough to buy a spare RG body off Ebay and make a template out of it, for my next build. I still might..... I have indeed done this. Well, I didn't buy a body specifically, but I've made templates of bodies from beater guitars I've bought/come across. It's easier to do this with a flattop guitar, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Cool, thanks for the suggestions! I managed to obtain a CAD plan from a website of CNC enthusiasts, but I'd much rather use one here, I'd feel that I could trust me more I was already thinking of donating for the massive amount of help you guys have given me, so this is just extra motivation! I tried once, but I got confused when I got to the PayPal menu - Why do they slap on an extra $5.60 for shipping and handling if it's a donation? I mean I'm fine with giving a little extra, but I'm confused now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted March 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 (edited) F@#$*ing hell, I just donated, but forgot to put my username in the little box thing..what do I do? I've got a Paypal receipt (sent through e-mail) but I'm not sure who to fire it off too. Edited March 26, 2008 by Ryan D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted March 26, 2008 Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 Might be worth it to send Brian a PM letting him know. And the receipt is just a receipt; you don't need to do anything with it. Your status should be changed in a few days, and you'll have access to the downloads section. ::EDIT:: While we're on the topic of CADs, does anyone know if Kinko's could take a CAD file and print it, so I don't have to do the whole print-and-tape thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted March 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 I saw a forum post linking to a program that calculates what size paper you need, then sends it to the nearest Kinko's for you to pick up for you. I was just reading it yesterday, but I forgot where it was...I'll see if I can find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted March 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 (edited) Here it is. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...amp;#entry43661 Looks like they've re-done the website, but you can still order online. --crap-- Sorry!! - Didn't realize you meant take a CAD file (bad reading on my part )..hmm, couldn't you just export as a bmp or as a vector-based file and scale it up? Basically the same thing, with a couple extra steps. Edited March 26, 2008 by Ryan D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted March 26, 2008 Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 I could, probably. I need to find a decent free CAD program that won't expire on me, now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted March 26, 2008 Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 While we're on the topic of CADs, does anyone know if Kinko's could take a CAD file and print it, so I don't have to do the whole print-and-tape thing? You're better off trying to find a friendly architect's office --they'll have a plotter that will be able to print full scale. City planners, engineers, those type of offices should have plotters too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted March 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 (edited) Ooh, good call, Mickguard. So I've gotten my friend's Strat, and now I'm waiting for the parts to arrive so I can trade a proper template then transfer it to MDF. It'll probably be another week to 2 weeks before everything gets here. In the mean time, I've ordered an ebony fretboard. I know most people leave it natural, do you suggest putting any finish on it or anything special like that? Edited March 26, 2008 by Ryan D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted March 26, 2008 Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 In the mean time, I've ordered an ebony fretboard. I know most people leave it natural, do you suggest putting any finish on it or anything special like that? At this point I'm going to politely suggest that you start using the search function and reading through these forums. You'll find the answers to most of your questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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