CrazyManAndy Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 (edited) If you end up having to get your body blank online, Gallery Hardwoods is a reliable source, with reasonable prices. CMA Edited February 1, 2008 by CrazyManAndy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 note that building an electric guitar cost next to nothing but the tools to build one will cost you a fortune Kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 I hesitate to even mention it for fear of sounding like I'm on their payroll or something, but check here for swamp ash blanks as well. You'd do better to buy locally if you can find a hardwood dealer, of course. You and me both Carvin pads my bank account well. To Ryan: I wasn't necessarily saying to buy from Warmoth, I was using the link more to show the dimensions for a typical body blank. Definitely try to get it locally if possible. To CMA: When it says "each" next to the price, does that mean per half of the body blank? If so, that's pretty expensive for a body, in my estimation. Either that, or the place I get my woods from is unreasonably cheap, and probably shouldn't be used for guitar building haha. To Kenny: It helps if you know a few carpenters, too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Funny, they tend to drain my bank account. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 (edited) Hahah, yeah, if my estimates are around correct then this is going to cost me at least $300. But that's only because I'll be shelling out $200 for some nice pickups. Yeah, Warmoth was the first business website I came across. Their prices are high but their quality is pretty proportional to them from what I hear. Their stuff is apparently the 'pro'-line stuff. Thanks for the dimensions! I'll bet that's goin to save me a lot of trouble. I was just thinking ahead, I'm not really sure what to get for a pickup switch. I came across this, the "Super Switch." Now, I read the directions/instructions multiple times but I still don't get it. I understand it has 24 lugs over the normal Strat 5-way 8, but if the switch only has 5 positions, why does this matter? I'm confused now. Link: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_p...00.html#details At first I thought I might want to try doing something like having a small volume knob for each pickup for limitless flexibility, but I figured I'd save that for another build. It's a bit out of my league and I don't want to drill more knob holes on the beautiful Strat body. Edited February 1, 2008 by Ryan D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 You can use the superswitch, which is a MONSTER btw, to do pickup splitting, phase, series/parallel, nearly anything. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but having that many lugs means that you can do more than one application /\ per switch position. Personally, I'd look into the Megaswitches, Mega seems to be less complicated than Super The megaswitches have the typical number of lugs and are preconfigured to do some fancy stuff. The P switch simulates a PRS setup (what I bought for my build) and the E switch has coil cutting. I feel these would be better suited for a first build, and since I'm still a beginner as well I got one too hahaha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted February 1, 2008 Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 Xanthus, the $65.00 price tag includes both pieces. USACG also has Swamp Ash body blanks, for the same price. CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted February 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2008 (edited) $65 for both blanks? That's an awesome price! Thanks for the link! I'm guessing you've done business with these dudes before..how fast are they on getting their orders to your doorstep? Xanthus - Thanks for the clarification: I'll stick with the Mega Strat switch for now, I'm not smart enough to properly install a Super Switch yet Edited February 1, 2008 by Ryan D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 2, 2008 Report Share Posted February 2, 2008 Just a plug for Larry Davis (Gallery Hardwoods): you'll be hard pressed to find someone who's better to deal with, and if you've got very specific desires, he's the guy who can find the stuff you need for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Hey, sorry for the silence on my part! I've been looking at Gallery Hardwoods and I think I'll order my swamp ash from them. $65 is a great deal, plus the good feedback on Larry Davis is always a nice sign. The two guitar-building books I ordered came last night, so I've been reading up. I really like the Waring/Raymond book a lot: I think it's much easier for those just starting. The numerous color pictures are nice to have. I like Hiscock's writing style, though. The whole section on safety had me laughing I'll probably order the body blanks over the weekend, along with the template. Speaking of which, can anyone suggest a good, possibly cheap template place? I know of guitarbuildingtemplates.com, but $60 for a template (laser or CNC cut, same price) is basically the same price as the body blanks, which seems a bit disproportioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 (edited) You could make your own templates. The price will depend on the material you use. The nice thing is you have a lot more options. I would personally rather make them than buy them from him anyway, I hear they have some accuracy and quality problems. I have yet to hear of a template maker with a very solid reputation. But maybe I just don't go out enough. CMA Edited February 8, 2008 by CrazyManAndy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Hahah! I know of a few friends that have Mexican or copycat Stratocasters..what would I do? Trace the outline then measure where everything goes in proportion to the center line? It shouldn't make a difference that their Strats are crappy ones, which means they only have 21 frets, etc., correct? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 You could do that, or you could buy a set of plans (Stew-mac, MIMF, guitarplansunlimited all have strat plans), or you could download some and have them printed out. Here is a strat plan (also has other guitars). I don't know if it's accurate though. CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 I'll probably order the body blanks over the weekend, along with the template. Speaking of which, can anyone suggest a good, possibly cheap template place? I know of guitarbuildingtemplates.com, but $60 for a template (laser or CNC cut, same price) is basically the same price as the body blanks, which seems a bit disproportioned. I have no idea what you are compairing, between a body blank and set of templates. The price sounds pretty reasonable to me, your paying for his equipment time, his time, and a small amount of material. The main thing I would focus on is, are they good templates. Use a sketchy set of templates and you may just wind up trashing your project (now that is going to make saving a couple bucks buying cheap templates seem like a big mistake). If you have time and want to make your own templates. Spend the time to learn all aspects of the template to ensure it is accurate, take your time and make them as accurate as you can. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 I say make your own templates; take your time doing it, and you'll have tools that'll last you several guitars. I always make the inital one from 6mm (1/4") MDF, which is cheap, easy to shape and work, and sturdy enough to use to make working templates out of thicker ply or MDF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted February 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 Ok, cool, I guess I'll give it a shot. Any tips for template-making that you could supply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 Make it out of thin MDF to start with (machines easily, not too thick, easy to keep square), use sanding drums for concave areas, and soemthing flat/long to do convex curves (lower bout, that sort of thing). For a symmterical design, get one half right, then flip and copy route to make a symmetrical shape. I also tend to draw things out full size, exactly, on paper first, glue the paper to the MDF (contact spray or glue stick, not liquid glue) and carve/cut/sand down to the line. Remember: trust your fingers, feel the edges to make sure they're smooth and flowing. They'll tell you things your eyes can't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 I think Mattia pretty much covered it. I highly recommend 3M Super 77 spray adhesive for attaching the plans to the MDF, works great. It might be a good idea to make (or get) an extra copy of your plans. I got a little excited making my first set of templates and ended up trashing them. The extra set of plans came in handy. CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted February 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Cool, thanks for the tips! I've been spending a lot of time with the books, and I think I pretty much grasp the concept of most of the parts of building a guitar, except one thing that continually confuses me - the truss rod. Would I need a truss rod if I purchased this neck: https://www.carvinguitars.com/products/single.php?product=BN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 That neck is already built, so includes the truss rod. Once the fretboard is attached, if you don't have a truss rod, you're not going to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 That neck is already built, so includes the truss rod. Once the fretboard is attached, if you don't have a truss rod, you're not going to. :D Carvin necks are so damn sweet. I'm kinda prematurely disappointed because I know my fretjob isn't going to be as good as my Carvins. You still planning on building a Strat-style, Ryan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 (edited) Hahahah! Thanks for the clarification - man, that would have been stupid if I got the neck and then broke it trying to shove a truss rod in there Xanthus - I think so. I'm trying to get my hands on a bunch of different guitars to see if some random obscure brand and shape appeals to me randomly, but at the same time I'm trying to stick to something that has readily available parts specifically tailored for it (pickguard, input jack, uhhh stuff). Plus it'd just be damn cool to have a Strat with a fancypants transparent finish that no one else has. The only thing that makes me a little sad is that my guitar is a 24-fretter, and moving down to 22 frets will make me sad. Edited February 11, 2008 by Ryan D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks....board_extension This really explains it all. You CAN get a 24-fret neck, at the expense of the neck pickup. AND look how much that mother overhangs the body! If I wanted to reach that hard for my notes I'd play a Les Paul The other option is to modify your design so that you have 24 frets. It would move the bridge about an inch closer to the neck, if the fretboard end is the same. It would extend the neck out an inch, making it a bit more neck heavy. Or you could do what I did and make your 24-fret neck into a 22 by accident Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan D Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Aw jeebus, hahahah, yeah, I'll stick with 22 frets. And wow, that really sucks with that - is that for the fretboard of your Rhoads V? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Ayup, it is! Screwed everything up for me. Bad lighting inside my template meant I kept having to stop and see how my progress was coming out. I lifted up the router on one pass and noticed I was missing a pinky-nail sized chunk from the 24th fret. They should make routers with lights on them, so you can see the bit better So that meant that I just said @&%$ it and chopped off the last 2 frets. That moved my neck pickup up an inch, to mate it up at the fretboard, which is where you have THIS issue. Disregard the uneven wings, the neck pickup is FAR too close to the edge of the body, which means I'll have to start the bevel taper after the corner of the neck pickup. Stupid mistakes and poor planning all around! I hope you're taking notes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.