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New Telecaster Clone Build With Walnut Top


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are you saying the eclipse was basswood?

No,

i dont really know anything about the guitar in the clips... what i was trying to get across is that it may be easier in some woods than it is in others - so dont expect it to be quite as easy as it looks in the clips. i also suggested that heat may help if its being difficult - i use a soldering iron rather than a flame thrower or blowtorch :D

that guy removed the bushing very easily and quickly in a way that makes it seem easier than it can really be, i suspect he may have already removed and reinstalled it before recording the clips, especially if that was in a harder maple cap. It still comes cleanly out of maple with care, you just wouldnt rush it like that

thats why i said

i guess thats a soft basswood body

rather than 'that is an eclipse with a basswood body', i am prepared to accept that my guess was wrong otherwise i would not have stated it was a guess

sorry if i dont know exactly what woods are used by each manufacturer :D

i was not criticizing you about what kind of wood it is, i was just a bit suprized because an Eclipse is a really high end model and is usually all mahogany or mahogany with a maple cap. it does look like he had already removed them though.

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Eclipse is a really high end model and is usually all mahogany or mahogany with a maple cap. it does look like he had already removed them though.

My bushing actually came out that easy on a maple body and I hammered the bushing in tight. I used two hands to protect the finish from the screwdriver if it slipped, but I could have done it with one hand.............if it was my right hand.............I'm not sure why my right hand and forarm are so much stronger than my left....go figure.

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i was not criticizing you about what kind of wood it is, i was just a bit suprized because an Eclipse is a really high end model and is usually all mahogany or mahogany with a maple cap.

well then its most likely not basswood then.... i dont really keep up with the factory guitars as much as i used to unless i have a repair to do on one

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...I'm not sure why my right hand and forarm are so much stronger than my left...

Biology.

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you're right-handed. Whichever hand is dominant, that arm/hand is measurable stronger than the other. The muscle mass may not look bigger, and in fact may not be in any easily noticable way, but the dominant hand and arm are stronger and more naturally developed.

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...I'm not sure why my right hand and forarm are so much stronger than my left...

Biology.

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you're right-handed. Whichever hand is dominant, that arm/hand is measurable stronger than the other. The muscle mass may not look bigger, and in fact may not be in any easily noticable way, but the dominant hand and arm are stronger and more naturally developed.

Hmm...I have a slightly different theory.... :D

CMA

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Sure ya do, mule. Sure ya do. :D

This guy, however...

http://www.angelo.com/

...shows us exactly what guitar ambidexterity means. On the other hand, he may have amazing technique, but his tone is stale and his melodies are bland.

Yeah, this guy has cracked me up for quite a while. I had a Nitro CD waaaaaaaay back in the day. I can't stop staring at his hair....think it's a wig ?!?!?

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  • 2 months later...

It's been a while since I made any progress on this tele but here's a pic with most of the hardware installed.

IMG_4859.jpg

I've also made a first attempt at the wiring which didn't work out too hot.....no sound at all. I shielded the cavity (a first) and attempted to use a star ground (also a first). The star ground is a washer soldered to a wood screw that is screwed into the side of the cavity. I'm not quite sure where it went wrong.

Rats Nest Wiring

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  • 2 weeks later...
Really digging the layout of the ferrules. Great tele, it's hard to keep them fresh and original after all these years but you've succeeded.

But why two switches? What do they do?

Thanks a lot. There's a lot of things that could have turned out better, but for the most part I'm happy with how it's shaping up for my fourth build.

The two toggles are on/off switches for each pickup. So it's got a master volume, master tone, and each pickup is ran through it's own switch first. No reason in particular other than I don't really like the traditional tele pickup selector switch and I wanted all black hardware and didn't see any traditional three way toggle in all black. I didn't want a nickle colored switch with a black tip.

Plus, this way I won't have to roll the volume down to zero to totally kill the guitar. Just flip one or two switches.

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  • 3 months later...
Anything to update? It's been three months...

I've been pretty busy screwing up someone elses guitar build. You're right though, I really need to get back to screwing up my own.

I've got the wiring finally under control and got the pickups mounted. Tonight I'm going to string it up and finish the nut.

Pictures to come soon hopefully.

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  • 1 month later...

It's been done for a little while now and I'm finally getting around to posting the final pictures. I learned a lot while making this one, mainly by trying to recover from my mistakes. :D Hopefully my guitars will continue to get better but all in all I'm pretty pleased with how it looks and very pleased with how it plays.

Final specs:

figured walnut top

maple back

volume/tone with toggle on/off for each pickup

Searcy V-90 pickups

tom bridge w/string through body

birdseye maple neck

birdseye maple fretboard from larry at gallery hardwoods

bone nut

IMG_6586.jpg

The back:

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg229/g...le/IMG_6579.jpg

Closeup of the birdseye maple fingerboard:

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg229/g...le/IMG_6587.jpg

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Nicely finished - however there is one quite major flaw - your ToM is straight so your intonation is going to be out on the lower strings. Also judging by the picture I think you're bottom E ferrule is so close that the string will rub on the body of the ToM (could be wrong just looks that way on the pic).

In terms of the spokewheel truss rod install - how on earth did you get the spoke wheel that far into the body of the neck?

This is how I do mine: IMG_0892.JPG

Obviously it also removes the need for hole in the last fret.

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You can install a TOM straight across and have all the strings intonate properly; there's just less room for adjustment that way and you have to get the bridge placement dead on.

Example

Yes you can but you can but you have to compensate by setting the saddles forward then drilling the holes based on the front of the saddles. So basically giving you more lee-way - but it's hit or miss depending on the strings you use whether you will get good intonation.

There is a reason why virtually all manufacturers and custom builders place them on an angle. :D

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Nicely finished - however there is one quite major flaw - your ToM is straight so your intonation is going to be out on the lower strings. Also judging by the picture I think you're bottom E ferrule is so close that the string will rub on the body of the ToM (could be wrong just looks that way on the pic).

The ToM is actually offset a bit, weird how the picture sure makes it seem like it's straight. Yes, the E ferrules are close to the ToM but they do not cause the string to rest on the body of the ToM.

In terms of the spokewheel truss rod install - how on earth did you get the spoke wheel that far into the body of the neck?

This is how I do mine: IMG_0892.JPG

Obviously it also removes the need for hole in the last fret.

The hole in the last fret wasn't a fix, I placed the truss rod in that position to split the fret with the spokewheel on purpose. It was an effort to get creative. Using the spokewheel in the place you do makes the most sense and that's what I'll probably do in the future.

Thanks for the comments !

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  • 3 years later...

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