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govtmule

New Telecaster Clone Build With Walnut Top

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The plan is to build myself a tele with two P-90's, a TOM with string through body, and a reverse headstock. I've been working on this tele for a while now, off and on. I'd like to finish it this Spring....we'll see.

I had some 6/4 maple left over from a lumber yard bargain: Maple Body

I bought some birdseye maple online for the neck: Birdseye Maple Neck Blank

I bought a birdseye maple fretboard blank online

I bought a set of Searcy String Works V-90's that I can't wait to wire up....Thanks Clint !!

I found an interesting looking piece of walnut in a cutoff bin for $5 and made my first attempt at resawing a top:

PB160005.jpg

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And the top glued to the body and have the neck pocket routed - B007-Neckpocketrouted.jpg

I have an issue with the neck pocket. Hopefully tonight I'll get some pictures up that will help with my question. basically the sucker is too big...the pocket that is. and I need input on how to deal with it.

Get back to y'all soon.

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humina humina! :D looks great so far!

As for the neck pocket, I haven't dealt with that (yet), but I've seen folks here have some success with veneers and shims. You just have to take your time making them the right size with proper taper, etc. Good luck on the rest of the build. Can't wait to see it finished.

On a side note, isn't the smell of Walnut being worked amazing? I LOVE it! :D

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Great birds eye maple neck - looks really sweet, and I love Walnut for the body, esp. bookmatched and open. Really nice - you'll sort the neck pocket out with a couple of well-fitting shims, no problem.

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I have an issue with the neck pocket. Hopefully tonight I'll get some pictures up that will help with my question. basically the sucker is too big...the pocket that is. and I need input on how to deal with it.

This is just an idea, filling in the gap with a catalyst setting finish, I have never tried it, but perhaps if you put a thin layer of vaseline on the neck where it meets the pocket to stop resin sticking to it, then screw it to the body. Put tape along the side of the body on both sides of the neck to stop resin running out the sides. Then mix up some resin and inject it using a syringe from the top on either side of the neck. Once it sets remove the tape and if the theory works in practice it should be a perfect fit. Obviously a test run would be the go before trying it out on that guitar which is shaping up beautifully. The veneer shim would work as well, I do not know which fix will look the best, good luck with it.

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Great work. Sorry to hear about the neckpocket though...I have the same problem, but my guitar is going to be black, so it's probably not an issue.

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This is just an idea, filling in the gap with a catalyst setting finish, I have never tried it, but perhaps if you put a thin layer of vaseline on the neck where it meets the pocket to stop resin sticking to it, then screw it to the body. Put tape along the side of the body on both sides of the neck to stop resin running out the sides. Then mix up some resin and inject it using a syringe from the top on either side of the neck. Once it sets remove the tape and if the theory works in practice it should be a perfect fit. Obviously a test run would be the go before trying it out on that guitar which is shaping up beautifully. The veneer shim would work as well, I do not know which fix will look the best, good luck with it.

Interesting idea Muzz, thanks for the suggestion. I think it's a little beyond me right now, I'm not sure how to work with that kind of material.

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I looked at my neck and body a bit closer tonight. If I put the neck in the center of the pocket I have about a 1/16" gap on BOTH the bass and treble side. From straight on this actually doesn't look too bad but when looking at the treble side especially it looks like crap because of the thin strip of body material left.

Bass side gap with neck in center of pocket

Treble side gap with neck in center of pocket

If I move the neck all the way flush with the treble side of the pocket that looks better but my bass side gap is not 1/8" of course.

Treble side gap with neck flush to the treble side

Bass side gap with neck flush to the treble side

I'm thinking that it may be easier to push the neck to the treble side and focus my shims or vaneer on one side. That way if my "fix" looks like crap at least it will only affect one side.

Any ideas after seeing the situation ?

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Looking good.

I had the same neck pocket problem with the first one I built. I glued in a piece of really thin mahogany veneer and it worked great and you can't see the repair at all.

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if you have some left over maple left why not line both sides of the pocket with it and make a feature out of it. to me that would be better than having one side looking different from the other.

great looking neck by the way

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if you have some left over maple left why not line both sides of the pocket with it and make a feature out of it. to me that would be better than having one side looking different from the other.

great looking neck by the way

I do have some left over. Last night I ligned up the walnut cutoff with the maple cutoff in the area of the neck pocket and glued the walnut to the maple. This way my shim(s) will match the grain pattern of the existing wood around the pocket....or as close as I can come I guess.

I'll post a few pictures when I cut the shims.

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It's some lovely looking wood you have chosen there.

What's the hole in the neck at the very end? Truss rud access through the fretboard?

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I'm tempted to suggest that you rebuild the walls of the pocket, then reroute it to fit then neck. It's possible to put shims in there and still have your neck perfectly centered, of course. But if you refill, you can make a new neck pocket template and get things lined up perfectly. It might be easier to hide the repair, or you can use a contrasting wood to make a little ring. I realize it's a couple extra steps though.

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It's some lovely looking wood you have chosen there.

What's the hole in the neck at the very end? Truss rud access through the fretboard?

Thanks, and as for the hole in the end of the neck, that's exactly what it is. It's a Hot Rod from Stew Mac with a spoke nut and access through the extended end of the fretboard.

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I'm tempted to suggest that you rebuild the walls of the pocket, then reroute it to fit then neck. It's possible to put shims in there and still have your neck perfectly centered, of course. But if you refill, you can make a new neck pocket template and get things lined up perfectly. It might be easier to hide the repair, or you can use a contrasting wood to make a little ring. I realize it's a couple extra steps though.

I'm sort of doing that. I guess I'm a little confused as to what people have meant by "shims".

If you are talking about putting in very thin strips of wood vaneer between the neck and side walls of the pocket to get the neck to fit snug and to center the neck on the center line then I agree with your post Mickguard, it would be better to rebuild the pocket first. I say this because with the shims I would still have the gap between the neck and pocket showing which is what I don't like in the first place.

If by shims you mean very thin pieces placed between the neck and pocket side walls that match the wood and hopefully grain pattern of BOTH the maple back and walnut top...that's what I'm attempting to do.

Turns out that not only is my pocket a bit too big but it is a bit off center as well.....nice one huh ? :D

So by placing a 1/8" shim of maple with a walnut top in the bass side of the neck I'll be able to snug the neck up as well as center it on the body center line.

I glued in my first attempt last night which is just maple. I plan to piece in slivers of walnut where needed. Good practice I guess.

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The neck is installed and looking a bit better now....I think.

IMG_2215.jpg

On to routing for the PUP's and electronics.

Forgive me if you've already explained, but why exactly is the end of the truss rod in the middle of your fretboard?

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Forgive me if you've already explained, but why exactly is the end of the truss rod in the middle of your fretboard?

I thought that having the access to the spoke adjustment nut there and splitting a fret in half were interesting design ideas that I'd try out. I left the extended fretboard blank because I was toying with the idea of an inlay there but decided I like the look of the birdseye better.

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you could have moved it like 2mm to the heel end and saved the fret. each to his own. whole frets are overrated anyway.

Thanks for the advice guys but the truth of the matter is that I planned from the beginning to have the access hole fall right in the 22nd fret and to split the fret into two pieces. I thought it would look interesting and be a little different. Judging from your reactions it must look more like a mistake.......well, that sucks for me huh ? Toss that idea out.

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well, it looks pretty cool to me, but you aren't gonna be able to use the whole fret now is the only thing I don't like, though I very seldom use any string on the fret other than the high E.

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well, it looks pretty cool to me, but you aren't gonna be able to use the whole fret now is the only thing I don't like, though I very seldom use any string on the fret other than the high E.

Yeah, in hindsight, especially given the extra fretboard real estate that I left, I should have made it a 25 fret board and split the 25th fret. That way I wouldn't have pretty much wasted a fret.

I'm like you though Anderekel, I don't play up there much other than on the high E.

Shoot.....since getting into building I don't play much at all anymore...on any fret or string. Shame really, I was pretty.............aweful :D

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Finally getting back to this tele.

I've started building some coats of tru-oil and I think the walnut is starting to look pretty nice.

IMG_4189.jpg

I got so excited that when I went to turn off my work lamp I dropped the damn camera onto the body !! Walnut is pretty soft damnit !!

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