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My New Side Bender


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Spritz, don't soak, and get some sort of heat control (router speed controllers from Harbor Freight work. I put my wood in, then turn the blankets on, and let everything heat up together. I usually crank down the waist to within 1/2"-1" of all the way, then the lower bout, clamp that firmly in place, then the upper bout, then finish cranking down the waist. Lots of folks then 'cook' the side for about 10-15 minutes at a lower temperature before letting it cool overnight/for 4-6 hours. Frankly, I often just let it cool in the mold though. Not that patient :-)

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The blankets each have a heat control. Is 270F a good temperature to shoot for? I read in another thread that between 250 and 300 is good so I split the difference.

Depends on the wood. There's a discussion by I think John Mayes in the MIMF.com library that lists bending temp reccomendations for common woods.

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Daniel, how are you measuring the temperature?

There is a learning curve with the blanket, its not an automatic thing. Burning can be an issue.

Does anyone know if those router controllers would work with a hand drill? I have an old 2000 rpm drill, I would like to take it down to 600 to use for a strope motor. :D

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Daniel, how are you measuring the temperature?

I have one of those IR pistol grip ones used by mechanics. You just point it at an object and it instantly tells you it's temperature.

It bent amazingly well at 270, so I was thinking of trying like 245 next time to minimize scorching.

oh and it was mahogany.

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Daniel, how are you measuring the temperature?

I have one of those IR pistol grip ones used by mechanics. You just point it at an object and it instantly tells you it's temperature.

I would suggest calibrating it against a thermometer or thermocouple, I think those pistol grips are not very accurate (probably no better than ±30-50°). Also, the temperature at the outer surface of the heating blanket is probably a bit lower than underneath it where the wood is....that's probably why it bent so easily at 270°.

If you have an electrical multimeter for measuring resistance, current, voltage etc, they often come with a thermocouple that allows you to measure the temperature directly. The thermocouple is simply two insulated wires of different metals welded together, you insert the welded end into your heating blanket sandwich and read the temperature from the multimeter.

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Surface temp is going to be lower than the core temp, after a short period of time as Erik points out. You were most likely 50+ degrees higher in the slats if it was heating for a few minutes, most likely higher if you are using two blankets(and of course room temp and air circulation could be effeting that surface temp). Also as Erik mentioned the accuracy of an IR meter could be questionable, although they can be calibrated quite accurately(just need to be sure that is the case). Either way it sounds like you are getting good results.

I have limited my spritzing directly on the wood and have been spritzing the craft paper(I still seal the slats with a seam of masking tape to contain the steam a bit better) and I have little trouble with scortching even when I am running higher temps. That moisture must help control that scortching (at least that is my guess).

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this is cool, but i dont get it.

wouldn't the would already have to be bent to get heat blanket on there like how it is and then get it to ben perfectly how you want it? If you could explain this to me i would appreciate it. Sorry for being such a noob.

thanks

You take your side - wrapped in aluminum, wet kraft paper, with some metal slats to either side to support it. Place it on top of the bender. The blankt is flexible, and in contact with the sides at all times. Then turn up the heat, wait until the wood is hot enough to bend, and bend the waist into place, clamping it down, then the rest of the bends.

Basically you're clamping a sandwich of steel slats, wood and the blanket (I hold the ends together with a spring clam at the very beginning, until the first clamp is 'set') to a form.

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