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zmuze

Tune O Matic Placement On New Guitar

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hello, 1st L.P. STYLE, build and need to know correct placement of tailpiece and bridge T.O.M., should i use G!Bsun studio L.P. measurments?? I do know about scale length and have got those mzurments, but that is for the LOW E RIGHT?? with LOW E mzurments in the middle of saddle?? any good sites that show this operation?? it's got to be right the 1st time NO PLUG AND RE-DRILL it is the last step to finish git !! it holding me back, and a bit nervous thanks

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Additionally, most people tend to angle TOM bridges marginally to aid the range of intonation. This is usually done by dropping the bass side of the bridge around 1/8" further back. As you can see here, the left (bass) side of the bridge is a little further back than the treble side.

180px-Les_paul_tune-o-matic_stopbar.jpg

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A BIG THANKS TO YOU GUYS WHO'VE HELPED ME OUT THE "STEW-MAC" SITE IS AWESOME !!! AND I'D LIKE TO THANK THE ACADEMY ...... WHOOPS WRONG SPEACH tHANK YOU !!! ZMUZE

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I would bear in mind that the "Gibson scale" isn't exactly 24-3/4", although as long as you built your instrument to a consistent scale it's doesn't matter whether you're using a "Gibson correct" specification or not. If you understand how scale affects design parameters and make the correct decision along the way then you'll be good.

Have you already slotted your fingerboard, or did you purchase it ready slotted? If you have already fitted the neck and the fret slots/frets are in place, then double the measurement from the nut to the 12th fret, and that is where your minimum range of adjustment should be for your bridge. I move all of the saddles as pretty far forward in the intonation adjustment range and then line them up with this point. The bass side usually requires the saddles moving back further than the treble side, hence why dropping that side a little further back is common.

Good luck, and don't feel afraid of asking more questions! We'd rather see your complete your instrument and get it up and running in exchange for pics and more information on the build :-D

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Have you already slotted your fingerboard, or did you purchase it ready slotted? If you have already fitted the neck and the fret slots/frets are in place, then double the measurement from the nut to the 12th fret, and that is where your minimum range of adjustment should be for your bridge. I move all of the saddles as pretty far forward in the intonation adjustment range and then line them up with this point. The bass side usually requires the saddles moving back further than the treble side, hence why dropping that side a little further back is common.

It's so common, every photo I have found has this offset.

Check out this pdf from gotoh/warmoth that shows the bridge placement relative to the tailpiece. See the offset?

http://www.warmoth.com/hardware/bridges/pd...dge_Diagram.pdf

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FWIW, as Prostheta mentioned, Gibson 24.75 scale isn't exact. When I install them, I put the tailpiece on, center all the saddles on the bridge, then jig the bridge temporarily and string the high and low E and G strings. Then with a tuner I determine the placement of the bridge by nudging it around and retuning until the tuner tells me that I'm there in relation to the 12th fret. I find that this method gets me damn close, automatically determines your offset, and I generally don't need to move the saddles very much to finish the job in the end. I use the same method to install hardtail bridges. You generally have more saddle travel with a hardtail, but since you want to keep the bridge straight, I've found using this method that I don't have to worry about running out of travel on one end or the other. Unless you hardtailing a Mustang, but that's a different story for a different day :D . I've always used 10-46 gauge set for this method and have found that I have enough adjustment to compensate between a set of 8's or 11's.

Cheers.

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