Stu Mac Binding Router Tool

[Woodenspoke]

Well back to Dremel accessories as in my first review.

He we have the Stumac Binding Router tool. About $40. I bought this with the idea of future use.

Actually a good looking tool, however looks can be misleading.

The Good: Looks good, easy to adjust. Fits the Dremel well and is easy to screw on and remove. Channel depth is easy to adjust.

The Bad: This tools is hard to control. Because of the limited upper surface area; the only stable point on the tool is at the bearing guide. It is very hard to get the top heavy dremel stable by either putting pressure on the base or on the bearing guide. The channel may come out rough (jagged) or not an even depth. If you have to use this tool, expect to spend additional time and effort cleaning up the channel this tool creates.

As you can see I feel this was a waste of money. If you have this tool I would make the channel slightly smaller and use other means to get it to final depth. I wish I had a more positive view of this tool, their are more expensive and better options for your prized guitar than this.

Additional pictures

Pict #1

Pict #2

Pict #3

If anyone has had a good experience let us know.

[RobSm]

My view of this tool is similar to yours. I could not get any reproducibility at all.

I think I used the router on top to go down the height of edge carve + binding channel depth for my first attempt. It was OK.

So far the best result I've had with binding (n=3) is using the Setch top carve jig with the StewMac Router bit & bearing set. The width of the channel & binding were spot on. No horrible scraping of the binding to trim the excess level with the sides.

http://home.asparagine.net/ant/blog/?cat=8

I thought there was a tute on it here but couldn't find it.

Have fun.

Rob.

[erikbojerik]

I also started life with this tool, and now it sits unused. After several iterations I finally took the plunge and built the kind of binding channel cutter that is used for acoustic guitars, basically a dedicated router mounted on drawer slides (so it follows the top). I use the StewMac rabbet bit with its set of bearings, keep the bit in the router and just change the bearing underneath for whatever depth channel I need.

Right in front of the bit is a small shelf of wood that registers on the top - really the only tweek I need to do is to make it a little less wide, more like the width of the bit.

[Woodenspoke]

One of my next projects to attempt. Looks like you made it with minimal fuss and costs. Makes me rethink some of the plans out there.

[Mr Natural]

So after reading this review by Woodenspoke I thought to myself- nuts- I bought one of these last year- havent had a chance to use it- and sure enough- when I did use it last week I ended up really be disappointed. The cut was rough at best- I blew out an inside curve (test guitar- no biggy) when the thing got away from me- but- not wanting to put it up on ebay and getting pennies on the dollar- I thought- how can I still use this- is there a way to get the router under control.

So- I looked at my router table and came up with this. Basically a crude way of attaching it to the router table insert- but it works- and it works so well that I will hang onto this tool until I can afford to buy a better set up. I used some scrap hard maple for the base, small hinges on the outside and used a screw to create a compression fit if you will. I lined the hole in the center with leather from some old gloves. It took me some time to get this exactly square with the router insert top. At first I used a couple of pieces of leather in the inside of the hole where the wood holds the dremel/stewmac attachment- but found that the superglue I used ended up creating an uneven surface in the hole that holds the dremel- (leather soaks up superglue so you have to use a bunch to get it to stick-i used so much it made the inside of the hole uneven causing the dremel to "rock" in the hole)- anyway-I removed it, re-filed and I have just one layer of leather to squeeze tight against the dremel- after futzing with it for about an hour- I got it level. I use a reference line on the stewmac attachment to tell me where to line up to the top of the wood, and then the screw you see in the picture clamps the thing tight. I then traced where the screw holes from the router table insert should go and threaded them by hand. It now cuts smooth, I have total control of the body of the guitar- which I like better than moving a router around a guitar anyway- way more control when the cutter is stationary. After HATING this tool-I now like it with this base.