Dean Reeves Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 (edited) This is a thread for my first build, a 6-String fretless bass. I was going to make it a 5-String, but I couldn't find a visually appealing layout for my tuners on the headstock design that I had. I know it sounds ridiculous to re-design an entire build to save re-designing a headstock, but that's the kind of nut-job I guess I am Anyway, here is the technical drawing of my bass: Larger size: http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j53/dean...i/Bass04-04.jpg And here is the "Photoshop Imagining" of the bass in color wood grains. Though I have some pickups and such drawn in there, it's not going to be my final layout: Larger Size: http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j53/dean...i/Bass01-05.jpg This is the Bird's Eye Maple top that I purchased from Gilmer Woods, It's bookmatched and measures 3/4 x 14 x 21" if memory serves: And this is the Cocobolo fingerboard I'm using (second to last in the lineup): It's a 36" Scale bass with the back and neck made of laminated walnut and hard rock maple. Since it's my first bass I am erring on the side of caution and using a 2-Truss rod, 3-Carbon fiber support design. I figured better to have the neck too stable, then not stable enough. It's going to have one EMG-HZ bass pickup, and I am hoping to add a Killswitch during production. I really want to try a kill switch on the bass, but I don't want it to look like something that was just drilled in after the fact like so many killswitch mods do. If at all possible I want the kill switch button to be made out of a knob just like the ones I'm going to use for tone/volume so it will blend with the rest of the design. All of that being said, questions, comments & of course suggestions are always more than welcome. I look forward to hearing what you guys think!! -Dean Edited May 3, 2009 by Dean Reeves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 This I shall be watching! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAGGOTBRAIN Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 Love the shape.,.,Has a Ritter feel to it. Looking forward to seeing the progress... Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 Not sold on the butt of the bass string attachment, but other than that, you GO for it! This is going to be a very stunning build. I don't see the visual complications of using that headstock for a 5-er, just take one off the treble side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 Thanks guys. I've never heard of Ritter, it's more heavily inspired by Carl Thompson and his Rainbow Bass he made for Les Claypool. The butt string attachment will be reinforced by recessed grommets. And as for the headstock thing, it's just that if I'm going to have the strings asymmetrical I would rather have them com straight through the nut to the tuners. It's nit-picky, but so am I Another note is that while I have thrown most of my software and design training at this thing in the last month, I drew the actual body shape over 10 years ago (I think 98, but not positive). This thing is a long time coming for me, now I just hope I don't have any major f-ups... I have wood coming in tomorrow, and it's not a moment too soon. I can't even sleep well anymore for all the fantasizing I've been doing about getting started. Two questions for anyone who might know: #1- When installing the truss rods & carbon fiber supports should I fan them out so they are evenly spaced at the body as well as the nut, or should I cut them in perfectly straight so that they are bunched up in the middle at the body end? #2- Since my fretboard length is 27ish inches, and my truss rods and supports are 24 inches should I possibly stagger the routs so that the truss rods are at the body end of the fretboard and the carbon supports at the neck? It seems like there should be a way around the 3" gap between my neck length and the truss rod length. Thanks -Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 4, 2009 Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 1#- I have rarely seen the truss rods and carbon fiber fanned out, and honestly with a 3-piece neck AND two truss rods, I feel like 3 CF rods are overdoing it. But let it not be said that "nitpick-y" is the theme of this thread #2- guitar CF rods are 18" while many fretboards are 19" or so. 3 inches over the course of 27 isn't going to make your 3-laminate, 2 truss rod, 3 CF rod neck any less stable, but of course it's all up to you. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 Thanks Xanthus. I guess it may be overkill, but I really want to shape this thing as thin as possible, and hate to think of doing all this work just to have the neck twist. I appreciate the reply, it gives me a bit more confidence in the design (something I can use right now!) Now if the UPS man would just get here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 UPS FINALLY ARRIVED!!! 2 more pieces and I can start thinking about getting this thing laminated up!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 I now have all of the wood that I need, but I'm having a hard time finding someone with a planer and joiner that I can use. I really want to get started, but the lack of tools is holding me back :oP On another note I was pretty dissapointed with my top wood I got from Gilmer Wood (gilmerwood.com). It has an incredible figure surrounding the birds eye's, but their planer must have been dull, and I'm guessing they just shot it through because there are quite a few (20+) chunks out of the top where the blades poped an eyelet up. I'd guess that out of the 3/4" thick piece once planed there will be 1/2" usuable wood in it. This is not cool. I thought about getting one of the 1" - 1 1/4" quilted tops from Stewmac, but thought I'd go the cheaper road and get this Birds Eye from Gilmer. Now I wish I had spent the extra $75 and got the quilted. On the other hand my cocobolo fingerboard is as straight, flat and beautifull as I had hoped. I would have rather them sent the top to me just sawn and un-planed than with chunks missing out of the top... I'll post pics this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dakhahn Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 I love that design. I look forward to seeing the finished instrument Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Here are the pics of the wood I recived from gilmerwood.com 1st the Cocobolo, I couldn't be happier! But here is the Bird's Eye Maple I recived, if you look at my previous post in this thread you'll see that the shot they posted used full frontal flash which covered up the huge chunks out of the front (Most are about 1/4" wide by 1/2" long and about 3/16" deep) Here I shot it with some side lighting and the truth is revealed. I'm going to e-mail them about it, but I don't know if anything will come of it. By the time I get done working these chunks out my 3/4" board will probably be about 1/2" which is not what I thought I was buying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 That wood is in terrible shape, and doesn't even remotely resemble the first picture. I'm kind of shocked..... Doesn't even look leveled! As for fixing the wood, I would try and steam as much as possible before going to sand it. Best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 That wood is in terrible shape, and doesn't even remotely resemble the first picture. I'm kind of shocked..... Doesn't even look leveled! As for fixing the wood, I would try and steam as much as possible before going to sand it. Best of luck! Thanks Xanthus, I e-mailed them about it. I don't know how much good it will do, but I'll find out tomorrow. I know being a hobbiest type of builder (for now) they won't be losing much of a customer, but I hope to be able to make more guitars in the future and was really hoping they'd be a company worth being loyal to. That remains to be seen. I bought these pieces becuase it seemed like a deal. It was a bit thin for what I wanted. I was going to get the quilted book matched maple from Stewmac, but I decided I'd save $75 since it's my first build. Now I kind of wish I had bought the quilted. Oh well, time will tell. I just hope this doesn't happen to anyone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 If that's from Gilmer I'm shocked. They have a reputation for being a good company to deal with around here. Are you sure that's the same piece of wood....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anderekel Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Yeah, I'm pretty surprised about that wood too. I got some ebony from them (granted it doesn't have near the chance of tearing out like that), but it is very nice. I would hope something will be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 I think that happens to woods that are tight-grained and figured (best shown on your piece, unfortunately...), like flame maple, birds eye maple etc, when they are planned with inappropriate tools. But that should not happen to such big and experienced companies like gillmerwood.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 I just got off of the phone with gilmer, and I have to admit, his explanation was pretty good. Although the piece was 3/4" thick, it was made for a 1/2" carved top. While I would rather have a thicker piece, I think I'm just going to make it work, because it is a pretty rare grain. While there are birds eyes on it, it actually has what looks like partial flaming/partial quilting underneath the eyes. This is a very rare figure to find in birds eye, and I have some birds eye veneer that my father bought 25 years ago that was the same kind of lucky score. Basically my only option on the top is to sand it. I think I'll try steaming it first so I can sand as little as possible, then re-design my back thickness around that. Like I said, I've only heard good things about them, so I do have a tendency to belive what the guy is telling me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 I just got off of the phone with gilmer, and I have to admit, his explanation was pretty good. Although the piece was 3/4" thick, it was made for a 1/2" carved top. While I would rather have a thicker piece, I think I'm just going to make it work, because it is a pretty rare grain. While there are birds eyes on it, it actually has what looks like partial flaming/partial quilting underneath the eyes. This is a very rare figure to find in birds eye, and I have some birds eye veneer that my father bought 25 years ago that was the same kind of lucky score. Basically my only option on the top is to sand it. I think I'll try steaming it first so I can sand as little as possible, then re-design my back thickness around that. Like I said, I've only heard good things about them, so I do have a tendency to belive what the guy is telling me. Quick note on steaming...to temper your hopes. I am pretty sure it really only lifts dented spots. It is not going to help very much with missing chunks of wood. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 Quick note on steaming...to temper your hopes. I am pretty sure it really only lifts dented spots. It is not going to help very much with missing chunks of wood. Good Luck! Thanks, I am aware that it's for dents, but any swelling it can cause will be helpful. I'm going to have to block sand this thing flat, so the less I sand the better!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted May 12, 2009 Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 I just got off of the phone with gilmer, and I have to admit, his explanation was pretty good. Although the piece was 3/4" thick, it was made for a 1/2" carved top. did it say anything about this on the item description? if not, i would not accept that explanation... afterall, if it was made for a 1/2" top it should be a lot closer to 1/2" thick, and usable at those dimensions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 did it say anything about this on the item description? if not, i would not accept that explanation... afterall, if it was made for a 1/2" top it should be a lot closer to 1/2" thick, and usable at those dimensions I know, but really what the heck can I do about it at this point. They official stance was "We'll trade it for something else of the same price." Well, then that puts me at another 3-4 weeks after shipping, not to mention it was the only piece of figured maple that price on the entire website, so I would have to re-think the entire design around different woods. As it stands i'll just have to use it, and be a LOT more careful when I purchase from them in the future. Thanks alot for your input tho' I kinda felt that way myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 I don't know how well this would work with your build, but you could get another, non-figured piece of maple to put under your 1/2" top. Tonally, it should sound fine. Maybe you could bind the top afterwards in case the glue seam isn't fantastic. But I think you wanted the edge rounded over.... Well, just an idea. Got it from the Warmoth website. Apparently they're doing a similar thing with a carved top, slapping a figured veneer, and binding the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 So, I don't want my project thread to become a "Complaining about Gilmer" thread. Here's new (great) news on my progress (not much, but a good deal!). I decided that to fix this top it would be best to sand it, and since I don't have the money to get a good thickness sander I'd have to hand sand it. I've noticed on here that alot of you guys have granite slabs you use for sanding flat, so I decided to try and get one. After a bunch of calling around I found a place that had some scrap ends they'd sell me. I got a 1 1/4" thick, 26 x 17" granite slab (which should be more than enough for my uses) for the low low price of: $10.00 !! I was pretty happy, although I didn't like carrying it much it's going to be worth it. Kind of makes for a boring shot, but I like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 I am sorry to see the birds eye like that. Normally their pics allow you to click on them and look at the other side of the board(s). For some reason they didn't for this one (I just check the site a few minutes ago to see if they still had this one up) I guess if I decide to purchase from them I will shoot them an email to request a backside pic, because I have thought about it in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Reeves Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 I don't know how well this would work with your build, but you could get another, non-figured piece of maple to put under your 1/2" top. Tonally, it should sound fine. Maybe you could bind the top afterwards in case the glue seam isn't fantastic. But I think you wanted the edge rounded over.... Well, just an idea. Got it from the Warmoth website. Apparently they're doing a similar thing with a carved top, slapping a figured veneer, and binding the edge. Thanks for the tip Xanthus, I was thinking of something along this line. I'll just have to wait until I get them all sanded out before I can really tell what my thickness will be. Hopefully I won't lose a full 1/4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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