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rhoads56

Stainless Steel fretwire

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Ok fellas, im going to order the stainless steel fretwire, with a once off special price for those that want some. Ive talked a few people into going partners with me on this one (suckers!), as the minimum order (for us) is the equivalent of 1500 guitars worth of fretwire :D

PRICES IN USD

$13 for one guitar worth

$36 for three guitars worth ($12 per guitar)

$55 for five guitars worth ($11 per guitar)

$100 for ten guitars worth ($10 per guitar)

YES! The price for five guitars worth, is cheaper than the same amount of standard "Jumbo" nickel/silver fret wire from Stewmac.

I have listed this fretwire on my website at $50 AUD per guitar (about $35-40 USD). I am charging $200 extra, to fit this fretwire to a custom made guitar, or an additional $150 on top of a standard refret price. Ormsby Guitars Pricelist

The size of the wire is:

Crown height - 0.95mm

Crown width - 2mm

Tang width - 0.48mm

Barb width - 0.78mm

Overall height - 2.35mm

We wont be getting any other sizes in the near future, due to the amount we have to buy.

Postage and handling is from Perth, Australia. I havent yet found out the price of postage, but it shouldnt be more than $5.00 USD or so.

So, basically, i need to see an expression of interest from people ASAP, before we order the first batch. Who wants some?

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Just hang on for now, and i'll email everyone once we have placed the order. Please make sure you either put your email address in your post, or email me directly at guitars@monaro.com.au if you want to keep your purchases discrete. Thanks.

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Here's those measurements in standard:

The size of the wire is:

Crown height - 0.037

Crown width - 0.079

Barb width - 0.030

Overall height - 0.093

for reference, it measures up the same as 6240-6260 for dunlop and #0147 stew mac

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so are you locked into buying that size already? or can you change to a different size right now before you order?

personaly i'd like something a bit bigger

something in the range of 0.090"x0.050" (2.29mmx1.27mm) for the crown

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so are you locked into buying that size already? or can you change to a different size right now before you order?

personaly i'd like something a bit bigger

something in the range of 0.090"x0.050" (2.29mmx1.27mm) for the crown

Sorry Derek, cant do. Im going half and half with another fellow, and thats what he uses. If he doesnt take half, i cant justify getting the minimum order (1500 guitars worth). I also prefer a larger size myself, but, i guess the benefits of S/Steel will have to outweight my size preference.

You will need to spend a little bit more time ensuring the fret board surface is perfect when using s/s frets, and that will allow you to dress the frets with a minimum of fuss. The frets buff to a mirror finish, and stay like that for good. String bending is easier (because of the buffed mirror finish), and s/s has more mass (subjectively means better tone/sustain).

Despite what people say, you wont wear out your strings quicker (well, i challenge anyone to measure the wear over a month). Think about it like this: With normal 18% nickel/silver fret wire, people dont complain about strings wearing out. But, ive heard all sorts of people complain about strings wearing when playing on a s/s equiped guitar (despite the fact there are stuff all production guitars with s/s frets, and they arent readily available in the aftermarket sector). Ok, now consider this.... if the strings didnt wear on the original nickel frets, then that means the frets WERE wearing out. Far enough! But, how long does it take to wear down a nickel silver fret by 0.01"?? A **** load of time! why WOULDNT it take a "**** load" of time to wear out a string when playing on a s/s equiped fretboard (that has highly polished, slippery frets on it remember).

There are reasons people say things like that (wears out strings). Ive approached a few guitar repairers to get some pre-sales of the s/s wire, and they arent interested in stocking it, because "it takes away my business of refretting guitars, because the frets last three times longer". Pretty mindless opinion if you ask me...

I think i just did a "Ed Roman" rant! sm_doh.gif

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so ths is a smaller crown?smaller than gibson or not?i am interested because of course ss will last long enough to make up for the smaller size

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so ths is a smaller crown?smaller than gibson or  not?i am interested because of course ss will last long enough to make up for the smaller size

ok, heres the sizes in the old out dated format (imperial) :D

The size of the wire is:

Crown height - 0.037

Crown width - 0.079

Tang width - 0.019

Barb width - 0.030

Overall height - 0.093

It is smaller than Gibson "Jumbo" (about 0.040-0.042" high), and width (0.103"). But, its only the very "point" at the top of the fret wire you touch, so width is not as important as height. However, consider how much material you actually remove from non-s/steel frets when levelling... compared to how much you'll remove if you set up your fretboard to be perfectly flat first.

Not sure on what the pre-cut lengths will be at this stage, as the manufacturer has said they will cut them to whatever length we want (the whole lot though, not individual orders).

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put me down for 10...i am not worried about the smaller size because,like i said...i probably will never wear through them.

i just needed the tang width in "old,outdated measurements" because i need to order a different saw...all i have is .024

10 sets please

westhemann@yahoo.com

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rhoads,this may sound like a dumb question but i have only done one neck so i need to know...what saw width do you reccomend for this?i assume .019 to match the tang but i notice the barb is .030...

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rhoads,this may sound like a dumb question but i have only done one neck so i need to know...what saw width do you reccomend for this?i assume .019 to match the tang but i notice the barb is .030...

No such thing as dumb questions.

Id stay with the saw you have already. Just be careful not to "wobble" the blade while cutting. I use thin CA glue on all my frets, which strengthens the fretboard timber slightly either side of the fret slot.

If i was fretting maple fretboards, i would consider a new saw... maybe, as maple is softer than rosewood, or ebony (what i use all the time).

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sorry i duno how i missed the tang width.. must a selected something wrong when i was changing a number.

would the glue and slide over trick work with the 0.19 tang and 0.24 slot?

i'll probably take 2 sets to try them out since they're up for a really good price

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sorry i duno how i missed the tang width.. must a selected something wrong when i was changing a number.

would the glue and slide over trick work with the 0.19 tang and 0.24 slot?

i'll probably take 2 sets to try them out since they're up for a really good price

You mean like fender does? I dont know, sorry.

I clean the fret wire with lacquer thinners (you can it napha?) and then coat the tang with thin CA glue on both sides, the entire length of the fret. Careful you dont get too much on, otherwise i can soak onto the top of the fretboard.

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not quite like fender used to do..

press the fret in, then engage the little lock screw that will keep the arbor pressing against the neck, with a hammer gently tap the end of the fret and it should slide over, kinda locking it in place cause then there's no groove for the burs to follow up out of the board. You could also get a krimper and crimp the tang a bit, but if you need a crimper on ever fret then you might as well just get another saw

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Darn! Crown height seems a little low but having SS frets'll give me the impetus to start scalloping again *woohoo* :D. Put me down for ten sets too. I'll e-mail you my e-mail address.

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Oh, I forgot to ask in my e-mail to you. How should we pay you? Would paying by US Post Office money order be ok? That is my prefered method.

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Oh, I forgot to ask in my e-mail to you. How should we pay you? Would paying by US Post Office money order be ok? That is my prefered method.

Postal order is fine. I guess i should look into paypal also. Whats another online merchant thingy like paypal?

Derek, i think your studying everything too much. Nothing wrong with that, but you'll end up doing more work than you need! The problem with knocking over the frets so they slide acros in the slot is great until you need to remove them (for whatever reason). You wont have the slight compression marks from where the barbs have gone in, which will mean the fretboard almost certainly will tear out a lot.

We will be placing the order in the next one-two weeks, with a two week delivery time. Orders will take 7-10 days to get to you.

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i beleive that site was braught to everyone's attention in one of the older threads.

removing does get a bit harder, you'd probably have to slide them completely out then to ensure no damage to the fretboard, kinda like removing the frets on an old fender neck. but i've been playing around with beveling the slot edges, it's supposed to reduce chip out when you do remove the frets.

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