Three More Strandberg Ergonomic Guitars

[Strandberg Guitarworks]

Finally underway!

First, some progress on finalizing the Moses Graphite neck, which will be one of the new necks:

And, the materials, cut up and ready:

From left to right:

1. (top) mahogany veneer 1,5 mm thick to laminate neck with
   
2. some wenge veneer that I may or may not use
   
3. ebony fretboard blanks (made during last build)
   
4. wenge top
   
5. maple top (identical to last build)
   
6. flatsawn maple to be cut, stacked and laminated into neck blanks
   
7. honduras mahogany
   
8. swamp ash (from same batch as last build)
   

When I started measuring, I realized that the neck blank for the neck-through 7-string will let me cut a matching second blank from underneath. This gave me the idea that I will build an 8-string while I’m at it… I at least have the neck materials and I do have some old zebrano laying around that I could use for the body.

Regarding the neck blank, I am in the middle of an experiment that is baking out in the shop. I will say for now that it involves carbon fiber, epoxi and wood. More later!

As always, more materials on my site.

[Strandberg Guitarworks]

Not much progress has been made on the actual instruments - but that doesn’t mean that I haven’t been busy! Instead, I have been preparing my workshop for some new additions soon to be delivered.

Here, I have completed the routing and roughly cut the body shapes with a bandsaw. On one, you can see the template attached for final shaping. I used to do this kind of work with my router, but this time I am looking forward to using my newly acquired Luthier’s Friend. I will post some notes about my experiences as soon as I’m done.

[verhoevenc]

I've used one man... they're not that useful. I thought the same as well but the router is a MUCH easy, and better (results wise) way to go!

I'd suggest getting a sheer cut top bearing bit that's big enough to route the whole body in one pass. Since it's sheer cut I never get any chipout, even when doing 1.75" thick in one pass (but I cut pretty close to the line before routing). Ever since David Myka showed me the bit... I've never looked back!

Chris

[Strandberg Guitarworks]

I've used one man... they're not that useful. I thought the same as well but the router is a MUCH easy, and better (results wise) way to go!

I'd suggest getting a sheer cut top bearing bit that's big enough to route the whole body in one pass. Since it's sheer cut I never get any chipout, even when doing 1.75" thick in one pass (but I cut pretty close to the line before routing). Ever since David Myka showed me the bit... I've never looked back!

Chris

Is that a bit that you put in your hand router, i.e. with like an 8 mm shaft? I haven't seen one that tall - I have top bearing bit but it doesn't cut the whole body in one pass. Also, I don't have a router table although that would make things a lot easier.

Cheers,

Ola

[verhoevenc]

Yes, I use it in my router table. It has a 1/2" shaft, 3/4" diameter, and 2" cutting length. You COULD use it in a hand router.... but I'd find some way to really attach the body to your workbench well.

Chris

[Strandberg Guitarworks]

Yes, I use it in my router table. It has a 1/2" shaft, 3/4" diameter, and 2" cutting length. You COULD use it in a hand router.... but I'd find some way to really attach the body to your workbench well.

Chris

I've made some serious machinery investments lately (for my hardware), but maybe it's finally time for a router table as well...

[Cactus]

I've used one man... they're not that useful. I thought the same as well but the router is a MUCH easy, and better (results wise) way to go!

I'd suggest getting a sheer cut top bearing bit that's big enough to route the whole body in one pass. Since it's sheer cut I never get any chipout, even when doing 1.75" thick in one pass (but I cut pretty close to the line before routing). Ever since David Myka showed me the bit... I've never looked back!

Chris

Is that a bit that you put in your hand router, i.e. with like an 8 mm shaft? I haven't seen one that tall - I have top bearing bit but it doesn't cut the whole body in one pass. Also, I don't have a router table although that would make things a lot easier.

Cheers,

Ola

http://gitarrdelar.se/product_info.php?cPa...roducts_id=1934

[Strandberg Guitarworks]

http://gitarrdelar.se/product_info.php?cPa...roducts_id=1934

Ordered!

[HenryM]

http://gitarrdelar.se/product_info.php?cPa...roducts_id=1934

Ordered!

Damm expensive.

Do you know where I could get router bit with up bearing. I havent seen one at any store.

[verhoevenc]

The bit I use is from RouterBits.com (Whiteside) and I've never seen another like it anywhere else.

Chris

[alexoest]

I bought some from amazon.co.uk. Had to buy a router that could take 1/4" shank bits, but that was cheaper than this one bit. I know, price and quality often go together, but these bits are too expensive to me.

Here's a link to one of the cheap bits

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-282462-...ref=pd_cp_diy_3

/Alex

[Strandberg Guitarworks]

I ended up buying the one from gitarrdelar.se although it was _very_ expensive. It seems to be of very high quality and I used it briefly without a router table (not advisable) and will continue as soon as I have arranged for one. I can also report that I'm not sold on the Luthier's Friend (or rather the RoboSander part of it) for shaping bodies from a template. A router bit is far, far more efficient and leaves a better surface that requires less work.

Anyway, here is some progress on one of the necks, read more details on my site:

Channels router to save weight (carbon fiber reinforcements should make it stable)

Some more channels

Rough shaping using rasp

and ready for radiusing fretboard

Does anyone else have experience with a hollow neck?

[Johnny Foreigner]

The bit I use is from RouterBits.com (Whiteside) and I've never seen another like it anywhere else.

Chris

Would that be their part number 2580??

http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/s...028885_29226+38

s'actually pretty cheap compared to the $100 equivalent on the Swedish site.

[verhoevenc]

Yup, that would be bit number 2580 indeed. For some reason I remembered it being like twice that expensive when I bought mine? Perhaps they've come down since their introduction. Or perhaps I've gone insane. It could be either one. As for hollow necks... no experience, but weren't there those guitars that had hollow necks with a second set of strings running down them which you could tighten/loosen to act kinda like a truss rod as well as strange vibration thing?

Either way, cool builds. I love following your process.

Chris

[Strandberg Guitarworks]

A short report on the router bit issue: the one that I bought (from gitarrdelar.se) isn't great. I noticed the hard way that the bearing is not secured properly, so suddenly it had slid down and the bit dug straight into my workpiece... I then fastened it better with a screw-on stop, which also came loose once. The way to go is to use a piece of teflon tubing like on the StewMac bits.

Anyway, two of the bodies are good to go:

I am planning on rounding the edge on the wenge top rather than using binding. What do you think for radius?

Top one is 2 mm and bottom is 4 mm.

[Metalhead28]

The bit I use is from RouterBits.com (Whiteside) and I've never seen another like it anywhere else.

Chris

I wonder how that compares to a regular spiral bit. Ever used one?

I have a 2" spiral flush cutting bit that's wonderful, but was definitely damn expensive. I'd like to try those downshear out.

[Metalhead28]

I am planning on rounding the edge on the wenge top rather than using binding. What do you think for radius?

I like the bigger one. Probably more comfortable too.

[alexoest]

Nice progress!

Good call with the rounded edge on the wenge top. I prefer the 4 mm radius.

Hope the damage done by the faulty bit is repairable.

/Alex

[solomon684]

I also prefer the 4mm radius

And I love these ergonomic guitars... some ergonomic ones look really odd, but I actually like the shape, its really nice. I'd love to play one of these and see how they feel.

How about you send me one of these when its finished and I'll test it for you... I'll even do it for free!

[Buter]

Hey Ola

Bigger roundover, difinitely.

Yeah, the learning curve with a router can be a bit of a bastard. I've created a fair bit of firewood with mine - to include the guitar I was originally going to use your bridges on! I still have the odd 'dumba$$' moment.

I'm in town on the 25th and 26th of April. I've got something to show you, plus it would be cool to see your workshop. Let me know what you're up to.

Cheers

Buter

[verhoevenc]

I dunno man... I think roundovers that are larger than the top piece is thick end up looking odd...

Chris

[Cactus]

I dunno man... I think roundovers that are larger than the top piece is thick end up looking odd...

Chris

+1

[Strandberg Guitarworks]

I was getting worried that everyone seemed to want the larger radius, since I was leaning towards the smaller :-) So, I'm glad we're getting a little debate here. Anyway, the larger radius doesn't actually touch the back. I think what I will do is try the smaller and see how it feels. I can always go for the larger afterwards (but not the other way...)

Buter: I'm around, so let's definitely hook up! Give me a shout when you know your schedule.

[Strandberg Guitarworks]

Actually, the way it ended up was the 4 mm rounding - but this was the smaller one in the pictures! The larger was 6,3mm. Anyway, it looks very nice.

I'm actually most excited about the stratty one with the tremolo - it will be a fun one.

Next, I will route control cavities and pickup holes on the hollow-bodies and the tremolo cavities on the solid-body.

[Reinhold]

Based on the slightly squared pickup-route shapes in the pickguard, will you be using the single coil alumitones? I've been dying to hear those on a handcrafted guitar.