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i always think these things are a nice idea, although most players of interchangable things tend to leave them one way for most of their life.... but still fun

i would make the core about 1 1/2" thick. i would then make the wood under the core 1/4", but i would be tempted to add a brace or two which would serve two functions. The brace would help keep the body stable with the relatively thin pocket,also the core could be made to match to ensure the necks slot right into place easily

once you solve the electrical connections you are fine, but that does bring us to another issue. I like that you have gone for the same control layout, that really simplifies the connections... but it does remove 3 pickup options

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I think that if you had a "plate" of some sorts to cover the top of the "core" that would match the rest of the body, that would be very, very, very cool. I don't think it would be that hard to do, just use threaded inserts on the "core" to make sure that you don't wear\strip out the holes.

-Stormy

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i always think these things are a nice idea, although most players of interchangable things tend to leave them one way for most of their life.... but still fun

i would make the core about 1 1/2" thick. i would then make the wood under the core 1/4", but i would be tempted to add a brace or two which would serve two functions. The brace would help keep the body stable with the relatively thin pocket,also the core could be made to match to ensure the necks slot right into place easily

once you solve the electrical connections you are fine, but that does bring us to another issue. I like that you have gone for the same control layout, that really simplifies the connections... but it does remove 3 pickup options

Thanks. Exactly the kind of response I was looking for. I still have to work out the electronics issues. I would really like to be able offer a core with a three pick-up configuration that would still compatible with the standard electronics setup of the bodies. Is there a feasible way of doing that? Maybe all bodies come with dormant female connections for a 3rd pickup which are only employed when the core is equipped with a third pickup and female connector? I may be getting into circuit programming territory here, which im really not interested in. I have a very basic understanding of guitar electronics, but no experience in creating "experimental" configurations. If i cant figure out how to do it, I will just leave that aspect "theoretical" and use standard wiring for the sake of completing the project for school.

I think that if you had a "plate" of some sorts to cover the top of the "core" that would match the rest of the body, that would be very, very, very cool. I don't think it would be that hard to do, just use threaded inserts on the "core" to make sure that you don't wear\strip out the holes.

I really like that idea. Dont know why it didnt cross my mind before. I could rout around the pickups and bridge on the top surface of the core so a scratch plate like element could fit flush to the body mimicking the surface/finish. It would really be that hard to do. I guess I was thinking more about being able to quickly change bodies in between songs during a gig without having to mess around with screws and stuff. It could magnetically attach tho.

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I had thought about the magnets, but I wasn't sure if they would affect the pickups at all or not. If they don't that would really be the way to go I think.

-Stormy

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I love this thread and its digital dreaming about guitar design, I don't care that we are in no danger of seeing any sawdust anytime soon :D

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I had thought about the magnets, but I wasn't sure if they would affect the pickups at all or not. If they don't that would really be the way to go I think.

I think if they were not in too close proximity and they were relatively weak magnets it wouldnt have any noticeable effect on the pickups, but I dont know for sure.

I love this thread and its digital dreaming about guitar design, I don't care that we are in no danger of seeing any sawdust anytime soon :D

Hopefully youll be seeing that sawdust a lot sooner than you think! :D Of course ive been saying that about my IM San Dimas for over 2 months now and I havent even shopped for wood yet...

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I really dig the idea

One thing for sure, it's going to make mass or bulk building these a breeze- Just make a ton of the necks and when someone orders one, all you have to do is make the body!

Great designs too, metal without being too out there

Im really looking forward to seeing how these develop!

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I really dig the idea

One thing for sure, it's going to make mass or bulk building these a breeze- Just make a ton of the necks and when someone orders one, all you have to do is make the body!

Great designs too, metal without being too out there

Im really looking forward to seeing how these develop!

Thanks. Yeah thats exactly what i had in mind. Initially I was picturing this on a much larger scale, like for distribution in major guitar dealers (in theory), but like I said, I dont know if theres even a market for his kind of guitar or if people would chose to order this as opposed to a standard bolt on or neck thru guitar considering the price wouldnt be that much different if I was doing it all by hand. If it caught on tho, i might find myself in the guitar making business after all! :D Of course then Id need to start worrying about patents and all that political bs...

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no need to worry about patents - its probably gone already...

http://rksguitars.com/product_index.php

cool designs tho......

Ive seen that before. At school I think. The guy who designed it graduated from my school 4-5 years ago and left the original prototype mounted on one of the walls for a while. Ive been looking for his websight forever! Thanks man. I was referring to copywright regulations and similar issues when I mentiond the patents, because I was sure I wasnt the first to think of this.

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I got the wood for this and my San Dimas project finally!

The lumber pile

100_5129.jpg

Alder body plank

100_5130.jpg

walnut and maple neck lams

100_5134.jpg

I decided to go with a 7 piece laminated core 1.5" deep (thick) to go with my 7 string configuration. I also think I will make them both a 26.5" scale rather than the 25.5" I originally had chosen. Im debating whether or not its would be necessary to add carbon neck reinforcements due to the added tension of the extra string and longer scale. Any insight? Things should really start progressing very quickly now. I ordered the rest of my shaping tools, truss rods, nuts, and fret wire today. I dont really have time to slot my own fretboards unfortunately so Im in the market for one maple, one ebony 7 string 26.5" scale fetboards if any of you know where I can get them done for a reasonable price. I know there are guys on here that make a living that way, so hopefully someone can step up to the plate and help me out here! More pics to come!

Edited by MuffinPunch

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Spent some time today on the CAD file. I decided to go with a 1 1/4" deep core and a 1/2" back to the body. Even though the body wont be bearing any of the load from the string tension, 1/4" was just too skinny. This way Ill at least have enough space to countersink the bolts in the back.

FIrst in clear

HCbodyclr.jpg

Then in black

HCbodyblk.jpg

I didnt model the graphic into the model because Im going to "etch" that part out with the sandblaster. These were done in SolidWorks. My first time using the software, bit of a learning curve for me, but these will suffice. Itll be trickier building the core... Should have this on the mill by next week hopefully!!!

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The most difficult problem with Acrylics is hiding - or at least disguising/dressing - hardware such as screw threads, wires, edges and the usual "innards" or a guitar. In my opinion, the JEM2K seemed to get away with it very nicely.

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Muffinpunch, your mockups are amazing....

And like Prostheta said, some acrylic guitars are really let down because no effort is made to hide all the electronics etc. which ruins the 'clean' look of the acylic.

Maybe if the guitar wasn't 100% see-through acrylic it would be easier to hide everything, or maybe you could turn the electronics into a show piece somehow but now I'm just thinking out loud...

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Muffinpunch, your mockups are amazing....

And like Prostheta said, some acrylic guitars are really let down because no effort is made to hide all the electronics etc. which ruins the 'clean' look of the acylic.

Maybe if the guitar wasn't 100% see-through acrylic it would be easier to hide everything, or maybe you could turn the electronics into a show piece somehow but now I'm just thinking out loud...

Thanks. I agree with both of you. Im hoping the graphic engraving will draw some of the focus away from the innards. I also plan to "frost" the engraving and inside of the control cavity if not the entire back of the guitar.

I hope to get all my wood laminated up this week, so Ill have the body blank ready for the CNC by next weekend, and I can start shaping the neck(s) by hand.

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Im hoping the graphic engraving will draw some of the focus away from the innards. I also plan to "frost" the engraving and inside of the control cavity if not the entire back of the guitar.

Good thinking sah :D

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I LOVE that Red V on your project boards for your school, I think it's a really unique take on it. :D

-Stormy

Thanks, at some point I would like to make one like that. Ive never been a big fan of playing Vs, they just feel a bit awkward to me. For some reason all of my guitar design come out very goth... Im not at all gothic, but I guess im just drawn to that aesthetic.

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Thanks, at some point I would like to make one like that. Ive never been a big fan of playing Vs, they just feel a bit awkward to me. For some reason all of my guitar design come out very goth... Im not at all gothic, but I guess im just drawn to that aesthetic.

Your welcome. :D

I agree about playing V's, they do feel kinda goofy to play when I'm sitting down.

-Stormy

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More progress today! Got the neck lams all glues up today as well as the body blank. Should be on the CNC by next Wednesday. I also got my fretwire, nuts, and truss rods in. The rest is on its way...

100_5156.jpg

100_5160.jpg

Edited by MuffinPunch

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Got the body cut today. I didnt realize Alder was so temperamental under the mill... Or maybe I just got a bad piece.

100_5170.jpg

100_5172.jpg

100_5173.jpg

I had some serious splitting occur at the butt end of the body. I was so careful to make sure the cutter avoided all the gnarly knots in the wood, but there was no way of knowing this was hiding in there. Is this something that can be corrected with grain filler, or will it require more work than that? The body will be painted opaque, so Im not worried about it showing through the finish or anything. Just want to get it smooth as glass before I cast it in the mould.

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Got the body cut today. I didnt realize Alder was so temperamental under the mill... Or maybe I just got a bad piece.

100_5173.jpg

I had some serious splitting occur at the butt end of the body. I was so careful to make sure the cutter avoided all the gnarly knots in the wood, but there was no way of knowing this was hiding in there. Is this something that can be corrected with grain filler, or will it require more work than that? The body will be painted opaque, so Im not worried about it showing through the finish or anything. Just want to get it smooth as glass before I cast it in the mould.

That is ugly... What happened? Do you think the cutter was too aggressive and tried to take too much in one pass? Or was it that the blank was under stress and when you removed the material it flexed and split (seen it happen).

As for fixing it... grain filler is not the answer and it doesn't look like a good place for Titebond (when you split something with the tool and have to real way to clamp it back you can use Titebond but when the wood moves then it is not the best answer). West Systems Epoxy is probably your best bet. The thing I would worry about is if you compressed the grain or the blank is just unstable it might move again then you will have a mess.

If it was me I would fill it with Epoxy and see but I would never sell it to a customer.

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looks to me like splits from the seasoning of the wood- the ends of planks often have some wastage because of this and it should really be cut away first.

if the woods completely dry and stable now then you can fill it with epoxy as said above and go with it, just as a prototype to test your ideas

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