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Well I'm finally finding time to start my first guitar and decided to post the topic.

The specs are:

Body: black korina

Neck: wenge

FB: ebony stewmac prefab with lmii gold evo frets

Bridge: gold floyd rose speedloader

Bridge pup: EMG 81TW

Neck pup: EMG 89R

Controls: 2 volume, 2 tone, emg pa-2 preamp switch

Let me know what you think about the design and the grain direction, I put it crooked to try to get the best stability on the small points and position the orange streak and knot in the outline. I will try to post some cad designs when I can to show it better.

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Man those are the EXACT woods I wanted to use for my first build, but the stupid lumberyard was out of limba. Your lumber looks great by the way, and I love the body shape. Should be cool to watch. :D

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Those are the exact woods I used for my first build as well. black limba body / wenge neck / ziricote fretboard. Just finishing her up....

korina - works like magic... it truly is a great wood to work with.

Wenge - you need a RAZOR sharp spokeshave and you'll still need to be carefull. The black streaks are harder than the lighter wood so it can be tough to get an even carve.... if you hit the grain just right you can tare it out.... or at least i did in some spots. Also it can be chippy (use brad point drill bits wherever you can) But it's soooooooo worth it.....

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Yeah, I took that design originally and tweaked it a little to try to make it more comfortable to play sitting down and make it look a little less awkward overall. I also will add comfort contours and such as well as a contoured neck heel.

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Yeah, I took that design originally and tweaked it a little to try to make it more comfortable to play sitting down and make it look a little less awkward overall. I also will add comfort contours and such as well as a contoured neck heel.

Not knocking your design, But the original BC Rich model was designed with symetry in mind to make it balanced looking. The lower horn is set along the same line as the rear upper section. The top horn & rear bottom section are then set accross the centre (almost) to make a star.

By altering the line of the rear upper section you have made your seem kinked/bent in the middle.

Id look at it again & refine your shape a little to balance it visually.

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Cut the first wood today.

Here's the wood I'll be using for this, the rest will be for my bass.

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Cutting the outline a little.

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First section removed.

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Next.

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You know, it never occurred to me to create a clamping surface, and then just cut out the entire design after its all stuck together. I've been doing it the other way around, and then coming up with clever ways of using clamps as clamping surfaces, and getting clamps with 90* angles in them so you can hold stuff together.

Ah well, live and learn :D

Thanks!

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So here's where I'm at, shortly after we took the clamps off, I realized that the newly glued body was too large for the thickness planer, so we needed to route the whole thing down a quarter of an inch, which came out fairly well.

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This also revealed some awesome grain on the back of the guitar, most of which will probably stay.

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Then we planed out the router marks.

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Planed down.

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Then we cut out most of the remaining parts of the body, all that is left is the little hook on top, which will be done on a drill press hopefully next week when I hope to have the neck templates and start the neck.

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I finally got to work on it again this weekend. I got the body's final outline cut out, and the neck roughed out.

Here's the outline

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Here's the wenge for the neck with the template on top. I can get another whole neck out of this one.

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Wow wenge takes forever and sounds painful when you cut it.

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The top edge cut out

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Cutting out the profile

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Rough profile

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Sanding out the saw marks, the larger ones were sanded out with a belt sander

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The neck contour was belt sanded out, but I couldn't take picture since I had to hold the neck steady, but here's the roughly finished product. I went with a trapezoidal profile that is more of a mix of a standard thin with a trapezoidal than a full on Rick Toone style one, as I found this more comfortable.

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Well, time for a long overdue update. Progress has been slow, but I've gotten a lot done since the last update. The neck now only needs frets and side dots. It has been bolted to the body, so now I can figure out where to place the floyd.

Here's the headstock cut out with my initials.

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Here's the clamping of the fretboard

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And here's the nut attached

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I don't have any shots of the fretboard trimmed or the way I did the neck bolts, but I'll try to get some soon when I route the body out.

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Ok, so last weekend we managed to route out all but the back control cavity on the body, so here's the body and a mockup of the whole thing.

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It looks like he's using the speedloader thingers from EMG

yeah that's what I thought but will there be enough travel on the fine tuners to tune it properly?

I don't know how this system is supposed to work - (but as to your post before you edited it (I caught it lol!) there doesn't look like there's room on the h/s for tuners)

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It looks like he's using the speedloader thingers from EMG

yeah that's what I thought but will there be enough travel on the fine tuners to tune it properly?

I don't know how this system is supposed to work - (but as to your post before you edited it (I caught it lol!) there doesn't look like there's room on the h/s for tuners)

With the Speedloader, you set the tuning range with an allen wrench in a bolt under each saddle, then you just do minor adjustments from there with the fine tuners, you set it up just like a normal floyd despite that and the double-bulleted strings.

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