RestorationAD Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I am open to suggestions at this point. If it were sitting in front of me, I'd CYA glue it. Then, once basically filled and sanded level with CA, top coat it w/ whatever you want, lacquer in my case. I would do the top and bottom separately, so you don't drag any Paduak oils onto the top by accident. I will look into that. I will run a CA test on some scrap... I am not sure the top is soft enough to absorb a lot of CA. Since I want the back and neck to look and feel like oil I may do the top separate. Maybe throw a hard coat of lacquer over the top... then oil the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 You could do that if you wanted, I apply CA glue with the black foam brushes from HD. The glue will start to harden them after only a minute or so, but hey, they're .50/ a pop...be prepare to go through a few rapidly. But with the foam applicator, you CAN 'paint' a dead perfect line with it, so if you wanted to apply CA just to the top, you could do that. If you're not comfortable applying CA, definitely work on a few scrappers first, but the learning curve isn't that hard. I don't want to recommend something that may trip up a beautiful project, so please be sure you're comfortable with it first, although I do think it's the answer I would use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 You could do that if you wanted, I apply CA glue with the black foam brushes from HD. The glue will start to harden them after only a minute or so, but hey, they're .50/ a pop...be prepare to go through a few rapidly. But with the foam applicator, you CAN 'paint' a dead perfect line with it, so if you wanted to apply CA just to the top, you could do that. If you're not comfortable applying CA, definitely work on a few scrappers first, but the learning curve isn't that hard. I don't want to recommend something that may trip up a beautiful project, so please be sure you're comfortable with it first, although I do think it's the answer I would use. I have been down the CA route before so I know what it is capable of. Funny I use the .50 foambrushes myself... prolly got the idea from you. The top is Oregon Big leaf but not spalted so I am not sure I need to stabilize it really just protect it from dings. I am toying with the idea of using a coat of heated boiled linseed oil to pop the grain, behlen vinyl sealer, a few really light coats of behlen instrument lacquer. The scuff the back and neck with 0000 steel wool to give it a satin feel. Heck I am not sure I want to fill the grain on the padauk... it feels so earthy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I am toying with the idea of using a coat of heated boiled linseed oil .... HEATING the linseed oil. There's a logical thought. I gotta try that one out. It seems reasonable that it should penetrate deeper if it's heated. Considering that I oil all of my fretboards and I've taken to oiling the necks whenever possible... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I am toying with the idea of using a coat of heated boiled linseed oil .... HEATING the linseed oil. There's a logical thought. I gotta try that one out. It seems reasonable that it should penetrate deeper if it's heated. Considering that I oil all of my fretboards and I've taken to oiling the necks whenever possible... Just remember it is oil. And it will catch on fire. The articles I have read say to heat it on a hotplate... sounds like a recipe for fire. I plan on setting a small bottle in boiling water for a little bit then applying it while wearing some protective gloves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Ok went through several magnets last night. No volume knob in the signal path -- Fixed - Very little change A4 magnet is midrangy -- The A4 is probably not the issue. I tried and A2, A8, C8, and finally an A5 Unoriented last night. The A5U is the best of the bunch. The A5U magnets really knocks off the highs. This leads me to believe that the pole pieces are part of the issue. I spent a bit of time making sure the poles and slugs heights were adjusted (yes everything effects tone). However they sound really good right now... just not good for this guitar. Tonight I will swap the unplated slugs and pole pieces for my usual plated slug and pole pieces to see if that returns the pickup to were it should be. Still to be decided: Next -- Unplated pole pieces? -- no clue yet how these effect the tone Will get to this once they are right -- Not potted yet - This will it tone it down a bit. But not much Soon enough -- No finish on the guitar - I just have to put the right finish on it (something lightweight) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sam_c Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Heck I am not sure I want to fill the grain on the padauk... it feels so earthy. I like padauk with the grain open. even as a neck wood I like the feel of it without a grain filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Heck I am not sure I want to fill the grain on the padauk... it feels so earthy. I like padauk with the grain open. even as a neck wood I like the feel of it without a grain filler. I have never been a fan of grain filler and I think that a dark grain filler would mess up the look of the guitar... For some reason unfinished necks always feel great to me. I could sand up and polish the padauk with no finish and it would be fine. But it needs some protection from sweat and alcohol. The current plan is to use a BLO finish everywhere and then seal the top with a vinyl sealer/lacquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 I am toying with the idea of using a coat of heated boiled linseed oil .... HEATING the linseed oil. There's a logical thought. I gotta try that one out. It seems reasonable that it should penetrate deeper if it's heated. Considering that I oil all of my fretboards and I've taken to oiling the necks whenever possible... Just remember it is oil. And it will catch on fire. The articles I have read say to heat it on a hotplate... sounds like a recipe for fire. I plan on setting a small bottle in boiling water for a little bit then applying it while wearing some protective gloves. Finished studying the "HEATED LINSEED OIL". Heating Boiled Linseed Oil is pointless and dangerous. I could not find any real proof that it helps anything so it should be categorized as "voodoo". Heating Raw Linseed Oil or Raw Tung Oil is a different story all together... (google Polymerized) I found an article stating that the penetration is the same as room temperature. I did read that it can effect the color of the linseed oil making it darker. Moving on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 I am toying with the idea of using a coat of heated boiled linseed oil .... HEATING the linseed oil. There's a logical thought. I gotta try that one out. It seems reasonable that it should penetrate deeper if it's heated. Considering that I oil all of my fretboards and I've taken to oiling the necks whenever possible... Just remember it is oil. And it will catch on fire. The articles I have read say to heat it on a hotplate... sounds like a recipe for fire. I plan on setting a small bottle in boiling water for a little bit then applying it while wearing some protective gloves. Finished studying the "HEATED LINSEED OIL". Heating Boiled Linseed Oil is pointless and dangerous. I could not find any real proof that it helps anything so it should be categorized as "voodoo". Heating Raw Linseed Oil or Raw Tung Oil is a different story all together... (google Polymerized) I found an article stating that the penetration is the same as room temperature. I did read that it can effect the color of the linseed oil making it darker. Moving on... Duely rejected. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 I find that the "Earthiness" of oiled wood is soon offset by the grunginess of everything that sticks to it.I started out with oiling one,then True oil on the next,then rattlecan poly,rattlecan laquer,then finally settling on catalyzed varnish...for me durability trumps everything...and at first a thick glass finish may sound a bit "dead" or whatever(not really),but 5 years down the road when the oiled guitars are going south the thick finished guitar is just getting warmed up. Just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 I find that the "Earthiness" of oiled wood is soon offset by the grunginess of everything that sticks to it.I started out with oiling one,then True oil on the next,then rattlecan poly,rattlecan laquer,then finally settling on catalyzed varnish...for me durability trumps everything...and at first a thick glass finish may sound a bit "dead" or whatever(not really),but 5 years down the road when the oiled guitars are going south the thick finished guitar is just getting warmed up. Just my opinion. I hear you Wes. And that is what I have been fighting with. I have several finishes in the gallery of guitars. I have poly, nitro, tung-oil, danish-oil, and most recently EM6000. My favorites are the old thin coat nitro lacquer guitars. But I can't get that lacquer anymore. I am going to try the Behlens and see what it does. The main thing with the top is to not waste the grain pattern. Oh well I am finishing up the V and 3 teles. I need to put together the other S9 also. I will let it ride for a while and test some stuff on the Telecasters. As for the bridge pickup. After a few minutes today tuning the pole screw heights and adjusting the slug heights I think I got it. I am going to drop a polished A5 in it tonight. That should be it for the pups. Probably should have started with the polished A5 but I really wanted to try the alternatives... The guitar is loosening up and starting to be less stiff. By Friday I should have a pretty good idea of what it will sound like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Machine strung and playable. I will disassemble it tomorrow and start preping it for finishing. I use the blue tape to prevent pick scratches while testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menapia Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Absolutely amazing guitar Bud . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 The first coat of Oil is almost dry (a week later)... maybe this weekend I can get the rest of the finish on this one. It has been raining every other day and humid to boot so I have very little hope that the weather will cooperate enough to finish this up. On top of that my real job has been very busy and I have a pile of vacation I can't take because we are too busy grrrr... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 My favorites are the old thin coat nitro lacquer guitars. But I can't get that lacquer anymore I was just curious what you meant by that, I buy my lacquer and (medium speed) thinner separately and always mix every batch myself, I can make it as thin or thick as I want every time, I always use super-thinned lacquer when using the airbrush or when bursting so I don't get a big edge, and super thick when laying down clear coats for build, so that comment didn't really make sense to me unless you're buying your lacquer pre-mixed and ready to shoot? PS, ALL your builds are Rockin' it, this is my blanket 'Looks Killer Dude' compliment for all the builds you have going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 My favorites are the old thin coat nitro lacquer guitars. But I can't get that lacquer anymore I was just curious what you meant by that, I buy my lacquer and (medium speed) thinner separately and always mix every batch myself, I can make it as thin or thick as I want every time, I always use super-thinned lacquer when using the airbrush or when bursting so I don't get a big edge, and super thick when laying down clear coats for build, so that comment didn't really make sense to me unless you're buying your lacquer pre-mixed and ready to shoot? PS, ALL your builds are Rockin' it, this is my blanket 'Looks Killer Dude' compliment for all the builds you have going on. TX for the kudos it is appreciated. I am following your advice and not trying any finishing until the weather clears. As for the Lacquer. I didn't mean I couldn't get thin lacquer (I always mix my own stuff)... I meant I couldn't get the EXACT type of lacquer I used on them anymore. My old guitars I built in the late 80s all have 3M Lacquer left over from the late 70s on them. My grandfather owned a body shop and he had lots of stuff on the shelf that was never opened. So when I went to visit I would grab an old can of lacquer (and thinner) off the shelf. No telling what was in that stuff... LEAD - MEK - nuclear run off from 3 mile Island. Oh and I used to shoot it without a mask.... what an idiot I was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 I find that the "Earthiness" of oiled wood is soon offset by the grunginess of everything that sticks to it.I started out with oiling one,then True oil on the next,then rattlecan poly,rattlecan laquer,then finally settling on catalyzed varnish...for me durability trumps everything...and at first a thick glass finish may sound a bit "dead" or whatever(not really),but 5 years down the road when the oiled guitars are going south the thick finished guitar is just getting warmed up. Just my opinion. I am open to anything at this point... I hate finishing. What brand of Catalyzed Varnish are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 Resto- Just curious- have you tried McFadden's laquer? If so- what do you think about it? I have used it a few times in the past, and I am shooting it now (with the addition of some retarder due to the weather here in the south the last few days)- I just hate that extended open time - nothing like fumes all day. It builds pretty quick though- I shoot straight laquer instead of filler, and just shoot it real heavy and sand back, repeat. McFadden's filler SUCKS. But the laquer is pretty decent. You should be in about the same climate as me (just Northeast of Atlanta)-curious if you have tried it. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 Resto- Just curious- have you tried McFadden's laquer? If so- what do you think about it? I have used it a few times in the past, and I am shooting it now (with the addition of some retarder due to the weather here in the south the last few days)- I just hate that extended open time - nothing like fumes all day. It builds pretty quick though- I shoot straight laquer instead of filler, and just shoot it real heavy and sand back, repeat. McFadden's filler SUCKS. But the laquer is pretty decent. You should be in about the same climate as me (just Northeast of Atlanta)-curious if you have tried it. Scott No I haven't. I just finished sanding this up to 2000 grit and am going to go a different route. I just want to protect the top and headstock (no grain filler) so I plan on a coat of vinyl sealer and three or four coats of lacquer... then I will rub it out by hand. I will leave the neck bare. I may even leave this one satin. I am trying Behlens this go around. If it sucks then maybe McFaddens or Mohawk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 Coated in oil and hanging around to dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 A week later. The oil is finally dry. I have sanded the guitar up to 2000 grit using wet/dry paper and mineral spirits. It will take another day for the mineral spirits to gas off. Then we start on the final finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 The padauk is all one color now. The oil darkened everything significantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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