RestorationAD Posted March 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Not done yet as it still needs cavity covers and new strings but here is a quick preview. More shots next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Also like to add that the Behlens Teak Oil did a great job. I will be using it moving forward until I find something better. Might try a spar varnish on the next one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Also like to add that the Behlens Teak Oil did a great job. I will be using it moving forward until I find something better. Might try a spar varnish on the next one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 9, 2011 Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 And it most certainly leave a satin finish even after sanding up to 2000. Maybe it's using the teak oil as a lubricant that has something to do with that. My experience has always been that sanding that high leave a glossy polish on the wood and the teak oil or more often for me - the danish oil - just leaves the wood with the same level of gloss as before application. With a much deeper richer color of course. Very nice by the way. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2011 And it most certainly leave a satin finish even after sanding up to 2000. Maybe it's using the teak oil as a lubricant that has something to do with that. My experience has always been that sanding that high leave a glossy polish on the wood and the teak oil or more often for me - the danish oil - just leaves the wood with the same level of gloss as before application. With a much deeper richer color of course. Very nice by the way. SR Yeah it is still satin after sanded to 2000... even with a coat of wax on top of the oil. However you can tell the wood is smooth and if I had done a spar varnish it would have a definite shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Note to self: Buy favorite case. Build guitar to fit case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Note to self: Buy favorite case. Build guitar to fit case. Come on man.....tell us more. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Note to self: Buy favorite case. Build guitar to fit case. Come on man.....tell us more. SR Well... my signature headstock on this one was a bit long. I should have put a sticky note on the work bench to fix it. When I was cutting the headstock out I left it a hair long. It is about 9.5" The headstock area on large universal hard shell cases from most companies is 9". Standard cases are out of the question... Custom cases are expensive. Since this guitar is sold I really need a hard shell case. grrrr.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workingman Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Isn't there a tutorial on building cases. Great looking guitar by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Isn't there a tutorial on building cases. Great looking guitar by the way. Thanks! It just spent a few hours at the local music stores to good reviews. Building cases is not too hard. The problem is cost as well as making them light enough and strong enough. I can make a great strong light case. It will cost me more in parts and labor than a full custom from a custom case shop. I can make a strong case that will cost more to ship than a full custom from a custom case shop. Right now the plan is to modify a Bass Flight case. Moving forward I am going to be more conscious of the size of the guitar relative to standard cases. I was looking last night and I think I can take a few mm out of the headstock without changing the actual look. Kinda like what Ibanez did in the 80s... when they went from the huge headstock to the smaller one we know now. There is no functional need for a large headstock... I just liked the way these look when I was designing them. Guitar building is about attention to detail. Building a product is about attention to all the details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjiscooler Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Beautiful guitar, I love bloodwood! Great choice going with the teak oil, you don't see that stuff get used often. One question I have though, how you you get the scarf/scarf accent so low on the neck? I noticed that your scarfs end quite deep into the neck. Mine came up right through and above the voulte. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 Beautiful guitar, I love bloodwood! Great choice going with the teak oil, you don't see that stuff get used often. One question I have though, how you you get the scarf/scarf accent so low on the neck? I noticed that your scarfs end quite deep into the neck. Mine came up right through and above the voulte. Thanks Make sure the piece you use for the headstock is +1" thick or decrease your headstock angle. I use a 14 degree headstock angle (Sometimes 12 - 13 depending if the piece slipped or not )... So in order to get the scarf under the 3rd fret where it belongs I use .95 - 1.00 in thick headstock material. On this one it was actually a little over 1.125" if I recall. When a scarf comes up near the volute you lose some of the reinforcement from the fretboard properly overlapping the joint. For me a scarfed neck has to be in the right place or it is cut apart and done again (or set on fire). I would say when using hide glue a joint nearer the volute will break before a joint under the fretboard. With titebond it is not as important of course because the joint is usually stronger than the wood but for aesthetic and voodoo reasons a scarf should not be in the volute or headstock (poor form in my book). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjiscooler Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Thank you so much!! I totally understand now. Ill keep that in mind on my next build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie H 72 Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 So I have a HUGE piece of teak in my basement (1 1/4" by 14" by 10' or so), and I want to use some of it as a base for my next guitar (it will get weight relieved), which will have a bloodwood top. Where do you get the right size bloodwood for stuff like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 So I have a HUGE piece of teak in my basement (1 1/4" by 14" by 10' or so), and I want to use some of it as a base for my next guitar (it will get weight relieved), which will have a bloodwood top. Where do you get the right size bloodwood for stuff like that? My bloodwood is sourced locally. I buy stuff about 7 - 9 in wide and bookmatch it on my bandsaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exoticwood Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 I have a 10"x4/4 x 8' piece of bloodwood but it is much redder than yours. Is the computer graphics changing the color towards orange or is that a good representation of the color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 I have a 10"x4/4 x 8' piece of bloodwood but it is much redder than yours. Is the computer graphics changing the color towards orange or is that a good representation of the color. It is a bit of both. It is so hard to capture its true color on film. I have taken more pictures of this thing than any other guitar and still don't have it perfect. On another note the piece I used is quartersawn and very striped with orange and red. It is also fresh cut... as it ages it gets more red. This was supposed to be a prototype so I could gauge the sound of bloodwood as a top. It is awesome. So in the future I might look for pieces that are deeper red. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3DogNate Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 (edited) Isn't there a tutorial on building cases. Great looking guitar by the way. Thanks! It just spent a few hours at the local music stores to good reviews. Building cases is not too hard. The problem is cost as well as making them light enough and strong enough. I can make a great strong light case. It will cost me more in parts and labor than a full custom from a custom case shop. I can make a strong case that will cost more to ship than a full custom from a custom case shop. Right now the plan is to modify a Bass Flight case. Moving forward I am going to be more conscious of the size of the guitar relative to standard cases. I was looking last night and I think I can take a few mm out of the headstock without changing the actual look. Kinda like what Ibanez did in the 80s... when they went from the huge headstock to the smaller one we know now. There is no functional need for a large headstock... I just liked the way these look when I was designing them. Guitar building is about attention to detail. Building a product is about attention to all the details. How about a Baritone case? or A Mustang bass sized case? Or maybe even a Coffin case would work... Edited April 5, 2011 by 3DogNate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 How about a Baritone case? or A Mustang bass sized case? Or maybe even a Coffin case would work... Thanks for the suggestions. The Mega Coffin case might work... but how many cases am I going to have to have shipped to the house to find the right one? Not a fan of coffin cases and without being able to sit the guitar in a Baritone or a Mustang case it is just not worth the money to have them shipped and return them (costs as much as the case does). The solution turned out to be an agreement with the new owner. I have modified a gator bass case to fit the guitar tight and he is going to purchase a custom case when it arrives. This way it gets shipped in a case I know it fits tight in and he can use while waiting on a custom. The other step is to make sure the design fits in top end flight cases.... that is on me. I will post pictures of the mods a little later this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oblaty Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Makes me want to build a thin superstrat with carved top Awesome build as always! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 So this is the guitar at work... down under with Sensory Amusia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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