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Metallion

Truss Rod For A 35" 6-string Through-neck

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Looking for a Dual-action truss rod for a Peavey Cirrus style Bass through-neck 6-string 35".

I expect a 700-710mm one to be needed.

Thought LMII would have some but didn't.

Where can you get one, delivered to/in EU?

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whats the distance from your nut to body join? that tells us more than the scale length does.

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I got mine from Thomann.

They certainly look and feel of good quality, won't be able to tell you how they perform in action for another couple of weeks.

B

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whats the distance from your nut to body join? that tells us more than the scale length does.

Body starts at about 24th fret, 667mm from nut.

http://www.peavey.com/products/browse.cfm/...06%20Walnut.cfm

Buter

I got mine from Thomann.

They certainly look and feel of good quality, won't be able to tell you how they perform in action for another couple of weeks.

What lenght is it? Can't find any long ones there.

Edited by Metallion

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Most "bass" truss rods are designed for the average sized 34" bass, but since you're using a longer scale with better access to the upper register, you'll find it difficult to find one the right length. Since it's practically impossible to change the length of a rod "in service" you might as well get one custom built from LMI or wherever off the bat. I can attest to the quality of them from my weirdly-chosen scale length builds!

Edit: You're right about the 667mm/26-1/4" rod length. Remember to factor in the working length of the rod and the length of the adjusting nut. Drawing it out would be useful at this stage.

Edited by Prostheta

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I had to hunt around for my truss rod as well... Mines a 34" scale length, but the neck's a bolt-on and joins the body at 24th fret, so I needed a good few inches longer than normal. Eventually I found one on ebay.

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How much Carbon rods, Graphite rods, should be needed for this neck?

2 Gr rods, 1 on each side of the 2-way TR x what length? and x what av. area, circular, rectangular or square?

Edited by Metallion

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There is no answer to that question.

The stiffness woods you use for the neck (QS rock Maple vs. flatsawn Mahogany for example) and the back profile define the majority of the neck's properties. A combination of stability and adjustability is the ideal target. A neck that is too stiff isn't a good thing as you won't be able to adjust it when you need to; a perfectly straight neck is rarely ideal. It's just a balance, that's all.

You'd be far better off building the instrument and learning from your results for future builds or staying relatively close to your benchmark instrument's specifics - the Peavey Cirrus.

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There is no answer to that question.

The stiffness woods you use for the neck (QS rock Maple vs. flatsawn Mahogany for example) and the back profile define the majority of the neck's properties. A combination of stability and adjustability is the ideal target. A neck that is too stiff isn't a good thing as you won't be able to adjust it when you need to; a perfectly straight neck is rarely ideal. It's just a balance, that's all.

You'd be far better off building the instrument and learning from your results for future builds or staying relatively close to your benchmark instrument's specifics - the Peavey Cirrus.

I'm getting it as close as possible to the Cirrus.

Peavey won't reveal the extent or measurements of the "Graphite reinforcements".

http://www.peavey.com/products/browse.cfm/...206%20Maple.cfm

It's Walnut - WN/maple/walnut/maple/WN - neck. See Images on any 6-str Cirrus.

5:

Cirrus5fretless-1.jpg

6:

Cirrus6.jpg

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Looks plenty stiff already with those laminations, but it depends on how slender the profile is and how effective the rod is in counteracting string tension. I can't imagine reinforcement being extensive or even necessary.

Ask a local veterinary surgery to get an x-ray (I'm not sure if there are any professional implications for qualified x-ray operators in doing this) or rip that fingerboard off and have an eyeball.

Realistically, I think just using common building techniques and decision making will result in a fine instrument and I doubt differences in reinforcement or rod length would be noticable.

Edited by Prostheta

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Looks plenty stiff already with those laminations, but it depends on how slender the profile is and how effective the rod is in counteracting string tension. I can't imagine reinforcement being extensive or even necessary.

Ask a local veterinary surgery to get an x-ray (I'm not sure if there are any professional implications for qualified x-ray operators in doing this) or rip that fingerboard off and have an eyeball.

Realistically, I think just using common building techniques and decision making will result in a fine instrument and I doubt differences in reinforcement or rod length would be noticable.

Building from pictures, ain't got no access to a Cirrus.

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