daveq Posted January 5, 2004 Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 I have been talking with some co-workers that have the same problem when planing - once in a while the leading edge will end up with a little dent in it (about 1/64" ?). The dent is about 1.5" long, I think - maybe longer. I have tried lot's of things to get rid of it - taking off very little wood (1/32"), holding the wood down as it goes through,... Nothing seems to work. Most of the time I just plan for it and cut the ends off. There are a few instances where I need to plane the working piece and can't afford to have this problem. Any know what I'm talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted January 5, 2004 Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 that where the wood hits the bottom roller and lifts up . try holding the end of the board up slightly when you feed it into the planer. if that doesn't work lower the bottom roller slightly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 Is it common to be able to lower the roller? I'll check into it when I get home. So is it compressing the wood or actually cutting it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyderek Posted January 5, 2004 Report Share Posted January 5, 2004 Is it common to be able to lower the roller? I'll check into it when I get home. So is it compressing the wood or actually cutting it? cutting i think, since the rollers are getting a bit shifted until the wood is in contract with both rollers the end of the wood isn't properly pressed down and more wood is available to the cutters. i have the same problem, i do like scott says and just hold it up a tad when i put it in, mostly though i have that problem on the end peice if i don't lift up that board when it's coming out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 I just cut off the end.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syxxstring Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Id plane a 64th over and just have the room to sand it out if i couldnt cut the end off. In the industrial woodshop I worked at the planers did this, we never cut or planed to exact size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 I just cut off the end.. lol Like I said, I can't always do that. lol Derek - I'll look again but I think mine shows up on the leading edge but maybe not? syxxstring - thanks for the suggestion. In some cases, I really need the planer to level the wood (make it parallel to the bottom surface) and sanding, at least for me, usually leads to an uneven surface. I guess I will see if the planer's rollers are adjustable and if not, try that lifting thing. Thanks for the info. dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syxxstring Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Time to practice with the belt sander.... I know a cruel heartless sob that runs a stair company who would gladly underpay you for 10 hour shifts of beltsanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotrock Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Just a thought... ... When I took my body blank to be planed to size, the bloke said that "it might be a bit short to be passed through the planer properly". Could the problem be that the blank is too short to be in contact with enough rollers to keep it level. If the wood is moving along the convayor and the back drops off a roller this might cause the front to lift and come in contact with the cutters, shaving a bit off. Would it be possible to attach the blank to a longer bit of wood and then pass it through? At this point I think it's wise to point out that my only experience with planers is taking my blank to be planed, so I could be totally off the mark. Might be worth a look though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Would it be possible to attach the blank to a longer bit of wood and then pass it through? It's possible but a real pain in the a**. Thanks for the suggestion. I'm not sure what was meant by the belt sander? Are you talking about a hand-held belt sander? There's no way I would be able to produce the same level of accuracy as the planer with a hand-held belt sander. Too much room for error in all directions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syxxstring Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 just saying thats how we used to do it for making staircases. takes some practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 In highschool wood shop we always had to take off a certain amount in a pass to remove the feeder marks. Maybe you need to take off more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Lex, I'm not sure what you mean by take off more? Are you saying that the marks are made on the first pass only and after that, the more you remove - the more it goes away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Lex, I'm not sure what you mean by take off more? Are you saying that the marks are made on the first pass only and after that, the more you remove - the more it goes away? No, the wood is fed through the planer by toothed feeders, and you need to plane off a certain amount in each pass to remove the marks. The feeder is used in each pass, so in highschool we needed to take off at least 1/16" to remove the feeder marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 a trick i do when i run my wood thru the planner at my house is i glue pine strips on the sides of the blank that helps a little bit and i rarely get any marks but then again i also have a thickness sander which is like a million times better then a planner when taking off small amounts MzI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 a trick i do when i run my wood thru the planner at my house is i glue pine strips on the sides of the blank That sounds interesting. The strips are a little taller than the piece to be planed then? Lex - I'm not sure if we are talking about the same thing. I'm talking about small dents that appear when I feed my wood though the planer (they don't always appear). The dents are usually about 1 - 2 inches in length and are about 1/64 in depth. Are you talking about removing the marks from the sawmill / lumber yard? I'm just having a hard time understanding how removing more wood solves it since it can be re-dented on each pass. Maybe you are saying that I can't take off less than 1/16 per pass? I will check into that. It would really suck if that's the case since I usually only take off about 1/32 per pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 What I'm refering to are marked the planer would put in the wood. These marks were put in the wood by the infeed drum of the planer. If we took off less than 1/16" in a pass, we would see the marks. The marks the infeed drum left were more like inpressions going across the piece. Maybe you have a different problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digideus Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Just a thought, but you didnt say if the marks are in line with each other? You say they are 1-2 inchs long, but how much distance between them? If its a constant space between them then I would guess that a roller has a sharp edge rolling along the surface of the wood as it passes through. You also didnt say which surface they appear on. I know someone earlier said about the length of the wood being a possible cause, but any movement between the rollers would surely make marks on BOTH FACES of the material. Perhaps im wrong, but if they are in line and a constant distance apart, check for sharp edges on the planer rollers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 usually the pine strips I glue on the side are higher then the wood itself and then i run the whole thing thru the planner, you just hafta run the whole thing thru a couple times to get the pine strips down to the same thickness as your blank your runnin thru MzI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted January 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2004 Digideus - the marks are on the upper part (top) of the piece. They only appear on the leading edge (the edge that goes into the planer first). Lex - I guess we are talking about the same thing then. Maybe it is just something that appears when cutting less than 1/16. That would be a real bummer. I will have to see if I can adjust anything to get rid of it. MzI - I like your idea - it sounds like it would work. It also sounds like a pain to do though. Thanks again - I'll post another thread if I ever find out what is happening and how to fix it. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonray305 Posted January 8, 2004 Report Share Posted January 8, 2004 I think what you are talking about hear is called "cliping" and if I am not mistaken it happens when the trailing edge after the knife is not properly adjuted. But Don't feel bad I buy boards that are cliped all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannoG Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 What I've heard it called is snipe or sniping. I search for that and planers should turn up some help. I think the general idea was the scrap wood right before and right after, although you seem to have heard of that and don't have wood the right thickness (you could plane some down...), and does your planer have a locking cutter head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobb2112 Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 When using my planer I feed a piece of scrap the same thickness of the wood I'm planning before the good piece and as it comes out the other end I pull it off and place it behind the piece which should prevent the sniping your having. its caused by the feed rollers on both ends settling on the wood. Hope this has been helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morben Guitars Posted January 15, 2004 Report Share Posted January 15, 2004 Danno and Bob have the right ideas...it is called Snipe, and it can be prevented by having good locking cutter heads and/or tilting the wood up when you feed it through...and up when it's coming out the other side. The two boards idea is pretty good too..never tried that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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