guitar2005 Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 When installing the wilkinson trem, it appears to me as though the body thickness must be at least 1-3/4" thick or you run the risk of not having enough room between the trem springs and the cavity plate. I have a body that is just under 1-3/4" thick, recessed trem route cover and with the trem against the body, the springs touch. I guess that with the neck installed and the action set, the trem would be higher but still very close. Has anyone here built a Wilkinson VS100 equipped guitar with a body thickness of less than 1-3/4? I'm thinking that maybe the block can be cut but that would be overkill, no? might as well just re-do the back of the guitar with a veneer/cap to bring it up to proper thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'd shorten the block. Much easier/quicker with the same results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'd shorten the block. Much easier/quicker with the same results. How does one shorten the block? I know that the Ibanez edge trem has two different blocks - short block for guitars where the trem is recessed and a regular block for non-recessed trems. Perhaps I can just buy a sort block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'd try a 20tpi hacksaw ( only because I have one ) If you're taking off just a tad, you can probably slice it off the bottom of the block, where the springs hook in ,with out much affect. It *will* change the angle of the spring pull slightly , but not enough for you to notice it. Unless you really just want to dress up the back of the axe with a killer veneer or something........ Edit: there are interchangeable blocks of different materials/heights , so you might want to look into buying a different one, but the home-based remedy I recommended will get you by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'd try a 20tpi hacksaw ( only because I have one ) If you're taking off just a tad, you can probably slice it off the bottom of the block, where the springs hook in ,with out much affect. It *will* change the angle of the spring pull slightly , but not enough for you to notice it. Unless you really just want to dress up the back of the axe with a killer veneer or something........ Nah, I don't want to dress up the back because its going to be solid anyways. I could just make the back plate non-recessed but I don't like that look. If you cut the block by hand, would it not be uneven? I guess that the trem can have the block removed for easier modification? From your post, It sounds like you remove the block from the plate, cut on the plate side of the block and re-install but hopefully, the screws can still go in full depth. I'd be taking off maybe 1/16", 3/32" at the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackdog Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'd second the proposal of shortening the block. If you need to remove that little it's probably easier on the spring side of the block, and would probably be safer if you do it with a flat file. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I'd second the proposal of shortening the block. If you need to remove that little it's probably easier on the spring side of the block, and would probably be safer if you do it with a flat file. taking off 1/16" seems like a lot to me, especially with metal. I just like the look of a recessed trem cover. Has anyone here actually done this with good results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 i have done a few brass blocks. i normally remove from the plate end to keep everything looking neat when reassembled and have not had problems with the screw holes being too short - but measure the depth first to check i normally put a piece of tape around the block to act as my guide - last time i am fairly sure i used an old shinto saw rasp to remove the bulk before tidying up with a file and sanding board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 i have done a few brass blocks. i normally remove from the plate end to keep everything looking neat when reassembled and have not had problems with the screw holes being too short - but measure the depth first to check i normally put a piece of tape around the block to act as my guide - last time i am fairly sure i used an old shinto saw rasp to remove the bulk before tidying up with a file and sanding board Shinto saw rasp. I'll have to look that up. I guess that a finishing file and belt sander could tidy it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I've used table saw with soft metal carbide blade and removed just a little at a time from the plate side. Worked fine, but sort of dangerous. I'm fortunate enough to have a friend with a fancy machine shop and he had one of his people mill another block for me too. I'm like a bull in a china shop with a file so I'd ruled it out... LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 I've used table saw with soft metal carbide blade and removed just a little at a time from the plate side. Worked fine, but sort of dangerous. I'm fortunate enough to have a friend with a fancy machine shop and he had one of his people mill another block for me too. I'm like a bull in a china shop with a file so I'd ruled it out... LOL At this point, I'm thinking belt sander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 it will be a good option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 it will be a good option I'll have to watch it for heat build up though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 dont worry - you will feel it in your fingers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim37 Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 At this point, I'm thinking belt sander. that was my first thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 Belt sander is good. Just use the right kind of belt and score a nice line with a scribe so you know where to stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 I do stuff like that with the 4" disc part of my benchtop belt sander...that metal disc keeps things pretty flat and smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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