curtisa Posted November 15, 2011 Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 Prep both surfaces by freshly sanding them. Blow off dust and wipe with lacquer thinner. Use scotch tape to protect the trussrod from epoxy. I cut the scotch tape within a 1/16" of the trussrod channel (to maximize gluing surface). Then clamp away. Do you leave thr scotch tape over the trussrod when the whole shebang goes together, or do you lift the tape after the glue has been spread (just to mask it off)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 Looking forward to the ebony top. I like the look of ebony, hate the tone when it is an acoustic guitar bridge. When you glue the fretboard you mention using broken drill bits as guides. If you roll a bit in paraffin wax you can use a good bit for that as well. Just drill it in and after about 10 minute titebond has tacked up so you can just back it out then. Just a small tip, it really doesn't matter which way is used. Not a bad idea. I have wax laying on the bench all the time... I am always screaming along and forget to pull them out after 10 minutes... but I started using epoxy for my fretboards and it comes loose with a little heat. That is really interesting. I wonder if there is a report somewhere that explores the strength of the bond at various lengths of time after glue up...but prior to cure. SR I have a chart that goes over all kinds of different types of adhesives and the amount of time it takes for them to set and all that. If that is of interest to anyone I can try to get a scan of it and post it up here. Yes please share. I must say that of everything in your builds RAD I think the neck is my favorite. Something about the laminates and how clean they look draws me to them more than most of your tops. Thank you. I think building necks show skill. Even though I bookmatch my own tops anyone can buy a nice top (me included ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 As for the tone.... I am winding a special set of buckers for this one. I have some experience with overly bright guitars and use the HB to control some of it. It will still be bright but controllable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2011 Prep both surfaces by freshly sanding them. Blow off dust and wipe with lacquer thinner. Use scotch tape to protect the trussrod from epoxy. I cut the scotch tape within a 1/16" of the trussrod channel (to maximize gluing surface). Then clamp away. Do you leave thr scotch tape over the trussrod when the whole shebang goes together, or do you lift the tape after the glue has been spread (just to mask it off)? So I just leave the scotch tape. It is so thin there is no reason to pull it up. I used to use blue masking tape and that had to be lifted after the glue was spread. This is the accepted method when using any tape that is not really really thin. I have a fear of glue in the trussrod channel (and rattle) so I always use silicone to stop the rattle and I have found that scotch tape ensures that I do not get glue in the channel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 So this is the overhang that I bandsaw off. I could have done a better job trimming it to begin with and maybe saved enough for a single piece headplate but I did not want to cut this too small with the expensive top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Edges sanded and worked the 80 grit scratches out of the center of the top. No need to clean up anymore as I still have to carve it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 This is why I use so many clamps. I am amazed at how clean the line is on this top using epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I really want to stay up all night and finish fitting this thing together... not sure when I will get more time to work on it. Ebony is amazing to work with. It sands and scrapes like a dream and doesn't clog the paper on sanders. Awesome stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cactus Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Oh my.. this is going to be unreal. Chrome hardware och pickupcovers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juntunen Guitars Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I will post that chart next week when I get ahold of a scanner. Have you ever considered hot hide glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I will post that chart next week when I get ahold of a scanner. Have you ever considered hot hide glue? Smells like arse, hot, sits in a pot... plus epoxy and titebond are almost permanent (I said __almost__ don't flame me). Having done repair work when I was younger I can't tell you how many times I had to put different pieces back together on vintage instruments left in trunks, humid practice spaces, next to heaters, the rain (The back of a pickup is a bad place to carry your gear...), etc... I should use hide glue more with my love of vintage sensibilities but for working guitars I have to think bullet proof. I use hide glue for gluing nuts on though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Oh my.. this is going to be unreal. Chrome hardware och pickupcovers? I have black hardware for this one but I might go chrome... this thing is going to be dark with black pickups and black hardware. I just don't know yet... I hate pickup covers. But this thing is screaming for chrome hardware and some custom pickup covers (you will see when I do them) and chrome. I have a really nice ABM chrome bridge and some chrome Hipshot lockers but they are not for this project. They are for the "Black Witch" when I build it. This is more of an ebony pilot build to see how it is going to sound/work before starting on the mother of all the witch models... Also I think I am adding a 3-way switch to this one. The push/pull switch is a personal preference but hasn't gone over as well with the masses. I ended up putting a push/push volume in S906_3 and it works pretty well but it requires the knob to sit high and aesthetically looks a bit strange. Any ideas on simple switching systems that are shallow? I can't fit a blade switch in my bodies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ljbarbeau Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I use something similar to this. Can't find the exact match. Mine is better quality but u get the point... http://guitarpartsresource.com/images/large/EP-4366-028.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I use something similar to this. Can't find the exact match. Mine is better quality but u get the point... http://guitarpartsresource.com/images/large/EP-4366-028.jpg Yes that is the obvious answer and I have several. I also have short straight gibson style 3-ways. I was looking for something more efficient. Anyone ever use a blend pot to switch pups? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 (edited) This is why I use so many clamps. I am amazed at how clean the line is on this top using epoxy. I'm not. Anyone ever use a blend pot to switch pups? I have heard of that, but never done it. How about a rotary switch? They have 5-ways so there ought to be 3-ways. How about micros? A micro 3-way or a couple of tiny on-offs could be cool. SR Edited November 16, 2011 by ScottR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
govtmule Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I use something similar to this. Can't find the exact match. Mine is better quality but u get the point... http://guitarpartsresource.com/images/large/EP-4366-028.jpg Yes that is the obvious answer and I have several. I also have short straight gibson style 3-ways. I was looking for something more efficient. Anyone ever use a blend pot to switch pups? I setup my first build that way. Two HB's, a blend pot for switching, and a master volume. Works great when you have the time to turn the knob. I could see though if you were playing a tune and needed to immediately flip from one pup to the other that it would be cumbersome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I have heard of that, but never done it. How about a rotary switch? They have 5-ways so there ought to be 3-ways. How about micros? A micro 3-way or a couple of tiny on-offs could be cool. SR Too slow an answer. All the rotary switches I used have sucked when I needed to switch really fast. I have thought about 3 mini switches but once again then always seem to be hard to find when playing fast. I setup my first build that way. Two HB's, a blend pot for switching, and a master volume. Works great when you have the time to turn the knob. I could see though if you were playing a tune and needed to immediately flip from one pup to the other that it would be cumbersome. I agree about it being slow. Good ideas though thank you for sharing. If anyone has anymore I am ready to listen... I have been thinking about an arcade button hooked to a hidden contact switching system... that way you could bash it and change pups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I used a lamp switch that gives me A, B or A/B ( or off ) its a four way rotary. Works, its even kind of neat, but its tough to tell what setting you're on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osorio Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Res, I think that I already asking you about the epoxy, but I can't remember. I keep following your threads and you have using epoxy in all of them. Most of then that I see. How about the mechanical resistence of the glued line with epoxy? Into a neck joint for exemple. Why not use titebond? Wich are the benefits of epoxy instead vinylic glues? Every epoxy glue that I have used, even "dry", keeps a soft surface, if I press my finger nail it marks. But I don't clamp any glued pieces, guess that makes all difference. By the way very very nice top!! Keep follow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Res, I think that I already asking you about the epoxy, but I can't remember. I keep following your threads and you have using epoxy in all of them. Most of then that I see. How about the mechanical resistence of the glued line with epoxy? Into a neck joint for exemple. Why not use titebond? Wich are the benefits of epoxy instead vinylic glues? Every epoxy glue that I have used, even "dry", keeps a soft surface, if I press my finger nail it marks. But I don't clamp any glued pieces, guess that makes all difference. By the way very very nice top!! Keep follow! Osorio my friend you are using the wrong epoxy. System 3 T-88. I do not use 5 minute epoxies from a hardware store as most of them are not strong enough. So I was turned on to System 3 T-88 by a couple of the guys here and I have to tell you it is very very very hard. You will not press a fingernail into it. I think I have a video somewhere of me slamming a cup of it against the concrete and it bounces really high with a tight resonant crack. I have glued several test boards together with it and beat them against the concrete with results identical to titebond (breaking somewhere other than the joint). One other good thing is that T-88 does not go bad (titebond that has frozen or is old is not good for anything). I am a proponent of titebond and I build 90% of a guitar with titebond. However titebond and really oily woods do not produce a bond on joints as strong as T-88. I use titebond for my neck laminates, body glue ups, most tops and headplates. I am planning on testing West Systems Epoxy more this summer (harder to use because it must be measured precisely). Officially I use T-88 for most fretboards and some neck joints (if it is not super tight) and oily tops/headplates. Use more clamps. I have posted several articles explaining how you should clamp joints to get proper coverage. And of course http://www.titebond.com/Download/pdf/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf Here are a few other articles to read How to Glue-Up Joints: Different Woods Need Different Clamping Pressure - Fine Woodworking How to Glue-Up Joints: The right number of clamps - Fine Woodworking How to Glue-Up Joints: Tips on gluing - Fine Woodworking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Here is the post were I test T-88 after a week of curing. http://guitarlogistics.blogspot.com/2011/04/s9081-neck-work.html T-88 Test http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll19/restorationad/S908_1/P3300720.mp4 edit: Ok I can't figure out this video post thing to save my life... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Any ideas on simple switching systems that are shallow? I can't fit a blade switch in my bodies. free-way switch It only requires a 3/4" depth. I know it has a lot more switching options than you're used to (or even want!), but it fits the bill and gives you some wiring options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Any ideas on simple switching systems that are shallow? I can't fit a blade switch in my bodies. free-way switch It only requires a 3/4" depth. I know it has a lot more switching options than you're used to (or even want!), but it fits the bill and gives you some wiring options. Yeah I have been thinking about that one. A few guys have said they feel cheap and break easy. Also only come in Chrome and Gold. But this might be my only option... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisdom727 Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Would the Stew-Mac right-angle 3-way switch fit? 13/16" cavity depth -- although it doesn't come in black. Or maybe a mini-toggle on-on-on -- although I've never tried one of those for pup switching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Would the Stew-Mac right-angle 3-way switch fit? 13/16" cavity depth -- although it doesn't come in black. Or maybe a mini-toggle on-on-on -- although I've never tried one of those for pup switching. Yes the right angle switch fits fine as well as the short gibson 3-way. Basically I am looking for a new switching system that works when you are playing fast. Not a 3-way that fits. There might not be a better answer. I think the reason the Gibson 3-way has never changed is that it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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