nowa90 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I'm jelly of all you'r lumber. I've been making cabinets and landscaping all week, I'll have about 200$ to spend on wood friday! What way do you glue up your multi peices? Face grain to face grain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuntinDoug Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Nice!... Love the neck lams as always. Do you have a surplus of Padauk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I'm jelly of all you'r lumber. I've been making cabinets and landscaping all week, I'll have about 200$ to spend on wood friday! What way do you glue up your multi peices? Face grain to face grain? Are you speaking about necks or butcher blocks? Please correct me if I am wrong but we should all be working on face grain joints (meaning wood fibers are running parallel to the joint). The only even remotely end grain joint on a guitar would be the scarf joint. That is only a partial end grain to a face grain joint (preferably using the fretboard to reinforce the joint). We all also have had all kinds of discussions on proper gluing methods for end grain to face grain. So if you are talking about grain orientation this is a standard woodworking question and it is an involved answer. Wood warps the opposite orientation of the growth rings. Basically I try to make my laminated necks quartersawn. If I can't I make them push into each other if they decide to move. so //\\||//\\ or \\//||\\// or //=||=\\ or well you get the idea. Sometimes we tend to be too paranoid over wood strength in relation to string tensions. The difference between deflection in quartersawn and riftsawn are negligible. Most of your attention should be placed on knots, sloping grain, grain run-out and other defects (wormholes) which have more affect on the strength of the neck. The real killer in a guitar neck is twist and warp. Combat that first and strength will take care of itself. For bodies when the wood is riftsawn or overly tangential (most of the time) I try and make sure that the halves cup the same way... not sure it really matters but that is just what I try to do. If I have to worry about bodies cupping the wood is probably not dry enough and I should put it back on the shelf.... And as a bit of voodoo I will try to make the body cup into the bookmatched top (not that any of this is scientific). If I get good quartersawn or Flatsawn boards I use them for one piece necks. Nice!... Love the neck lams as always. Do you have a surplus of Padauk? No I just have a reliable local supplier that keeps his woods indoors. I can basically walk in any Friday at lunch and walk out with awesome pieces of Padauk, Zebrawood, Bocote, Cocobolo, Wenge, and sometimes Peruvian Walnut and Sapele. I have another place that has huge pieces of Mahogany. SO I decided to do all these guitars using Padauk for the necks because I am enamored with the way it looks, sounds, and works. I have been trying to beat Padauk into submission fora few years now and I am starting to get it (I think). However Tonally you can't use it for bodies without thinking ahead but for necks it is a no brainer. Every neck I have built out of it has turned out nice with good even tone and feel. I want to say in between the warm of Mahogany and the pop of maple. It makes a good metal guitar neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nowa90 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I'm talking about multi peice neck through blanks (on purpose, to show off more skill). The wood I buy is always wormhole/knot free anyways, and kiln dried. My only local source is mostly flat sawn, and all the quarter sawn species aren't applicable to guitar building. My question is though, what sizes should I buy it? I need 5 accent strips (1 on each left/right end, 1 in the center, and 2 peices 1/4" away from the center, the rest being maple). Do I buy 2 inch thick stock and slice off 1/4" slices, or can I re-saw it to 1/4, then cut 2" wide strips and stack them on end to glue it together. It'd be much easier to do the re-saw method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I'm talking about multi peice neck through blanks (on purpose, to show off more skill). The wood I buy is always wormhole/knot free anyways, and kiln dried. My only local source is mostly flat sawn, and all the quarter sawn species aren't applicable to guitar building. My question is though, what sizes should I buy it? I need 5 accent strips (1 on each left/right end, 1 in the center, and 2 peices 1/4" away from the center, the rest being maple). Do I buy 2 inch thick stock and slice off 1/4" slices, or can I re-saw it to 1/4, then cut 2" wide strips and stack them on end to glue it together. It'd be much easier to do the re-saw method. Now this is a more interesting question. It depends on your philosophies. I try to never waste wood so I am always thinking about how to cut boards for the most use. I can build the base of an S9 from a 7" x 48" x 5/4 board (minus fretboard and top). The answer is both and all of the above. It depends on the grain-orientation and the size of the neck blank. I have several construction methods for available wood dimensions. Interior (accent) lams are always resawn from the leftovers of other cuts. When cutting fretboards I always try to make sure that if there is leftover the pieces are long enough for accents. I try to get at least 5/4. With 5/4 flatsawn or slight riftsawn I can saw it up into 1.5" strips and stand them on edge and still have 1.25" width for the main outside lams of a neck. I have some 8/4 quartersawn Khaya and I was able to rip 1.5" strip off the edge before cutting it into body blanks. The strip was then cut in half and I ended up with 2 1.5"W x 1"H x 36"L pieces. Then I managed to sneak another .5" strip out of the other side of the board and now I have the guts of a 3" neck blank that is 1" thick and 36" long. In this scenario I will get the headstock from the length of the board which is a different assembly technique than say a 3" x 24" x 1.5" blank where I would get the headstock from the bottom of the blank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nowa90 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I also lack a bandsaw, think I could cut those strips with a table saw? (have access to one). If I go with the tablesaw method, I should probably thin t down to 1/4 then cut the 3" strips, right? That way I could prob get 2 necks from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I also lack a bandsaw, think I could cut those strips with a table saw? (have access to one). If I go with the tablesaw method, I should probably thin t down to 1/4 then cut the 3" strips, right? That way I could prob get 2 necks from it. I suppose. The actual spacial orientation of this is up to you as I can't really explain it well in text. Buy a bandsaw. (I will not be responsible for any damage caused with a table saw.) You can do this with a 10". This is all much more involved without a bandsaw and a drum sander. Not saying it can not be done... just saying I would never tell anyone to use a table saw for anything let alone cutting 1/4" strips. Be careful and think ahead. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nowa90 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 its next on the list! As soon as I finish this PRS probably all of it will go towards a bandsaw....not sure if the 14" ridgid for 399 will do, or if I should go with the 15" craftex for 599. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 its next on the list! As soon as I finish this PRS probably all of it will go towards a bandsaw....not sure if the 14" ridgid for 399 will do, or if I should go with the 15" craftex for 599. I have a dumpster pulled Central Machines with a riser block from a 14" Grizzly. For the money the Central Machines is fine... best of the cheap 14" in my book. And the riser kit is cheap, just call Central machines and order it. I know others will say different but really if you are trying to save money on a bandsaw, save money. The difference between it and the other low end models is not enough to warrant the extra cost. Properly tuned it cuts just like the rest. Now my next bandsaw will be serious. A Rikon or a Laguana. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nowa90 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I'm on the east coast of canada, mind you. I also want to be able to resaw, but Im undecedided if I should just get a 200$ 9" one to cut bodies and necks, or just splurge on a 15" and be able to resaw everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Splurge on the big saw. You will not regret it for a moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nowa90 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I'm only 17 though ahahh, and on my 5th build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 This thread reminds me that I desperately need to invest in table router and table saw lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Nice!... Love the neck lams as always. Do you have a surplus of Padauk? No I just have a reliable local supplier that keeps his woods indoors. I can basically walk in any Friday at lunch and walk out with awesome pieces of Padauk, Zebrawood, Bocote, Cocobolo, Wenge, and sometimes Peruvian Walnut and Sapele. I have another place that has huge pieces of Mahogany. Hmmm... I hate you! hahahaha - that'd be great to be able to just buy like that. You're very lucky. I used to have a local place that stocked "some" limited stuff (as in QLD maple and mahogany) but they decided it wasn't financially rewarding enough for them to bother, so anything I get has to be ordered over the net and my stores of maple/mahogany planks I bought years ago are fast running out. Only a few guitars worth left. The clock is ticking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Nice!... Love the neck lams as always. Do you have a surplus of Padauk? No I just have a reliable local supplier that keeps his woods indoors. I can basically walk in any Friday at lunch and walk out with awesome pieces of Padauk, Zebrawood, Bocote, Cocobolo, Wenge, and sometimes Peruvian Walnut and Sapele. I have another place that has huge pieces of Mahogany. Hmmm... I hate you! hahahaha - that'd be great to be able to just buy like that. You're very lucky. I used to have a local place that stocked "some" limited stuff (as in QLD maple and mahogany) but they decided it wasn't financially rewarding enough for them to bother, so anything I get has to be ordered over the net and my stores of maple/mahogany planks I bought years ago are fast running out. Only a few guitars worth left. The clock is ticking! Sorry dude. I have a few pieces on the shelf that are 25 yrs old. I look at them and go I need to make something epic from this. Then I put it back and think I don't have the right project for this yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 I recently discovered I have a place like that too. http://www.clarkshardwood.com/products/exotic-woods/ I was pointed to it by a fellow PG member, and like RAD, I can pretty much walk in and back out with pretty much anything I want. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Splurge on the big saw. You will not regret it for a moment For serious full time builders this is good advice. I'm only 17 though ahahh, and on my 5th build. Get the Central Machines. No need to waste money on a huge bandsaw. The lower cost one with a riser will resaw fine for what you are doing. When you start selling guitars left and right they will pay for the upgrade. This thread reminds me that I desperately need to invest in table router and table saw lol. Ahhh! Table Saws are dangerous. No need for one in guitar building. A table router and a Bandsaw... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 At least a 14" saw is worth the charge, though. Bigger saws have a more stable cut and are all-round much more capable machines. I'm not a full-time builder, but I do take this hobby pretty seriously As for the table saw, I agree there's no strict need for one in guitar building. It's very much on my 'would like to have one' tool list, but there are very, very few things I feel I can't do with other tooling already in my possession. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 I agree with the comments above about the table saw not being needed in lutherie. I have a large (its three meters wide) sliding panel saw. I very rarely use it during guitar construction - other than as a work bench! If I have large stock I need to cut back, then yes, but most people buy their guitar blanks already downsized. Most of my planks I just cut with a sliding mitre saw anyway and not the panel saw. Talking table saw Vs sliding panel saw - after owning the sliding panel I'd NEVER buy a normal table saw. If the person has no saws, then a sliding mitre saw is the better investment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 (edited) Six of one, half dozen of the other. I want a bandsaw AND table saw lol. edit: besides, a screw driver can be dangerous if you dont follow safety precautions lol Edited March 18, 2012 by bob123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 I n ever use my table saw for any lutherie projects, but it's dang-near indispensable for all of the other stuff. Yes, you can use a circular saw cor all of the same things, but a table saw is much more efficient at it 95% of the time. For lutherie, I'll use the band saw, drill press, and routers the most. Wood prep is all about the planer, jointer, and compound miter saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 I use a circular saw to cut all my huge wood into usable sizes.Most times my wood is very large(end of infantile "wood" joke") I only buy "sized" boards when they are figured(therefore expensive)..I once found a huge piece of extreme birdseye(1" by 14" by 10')for cheap because it had a huge mineral streak right down the middle...but for guitar tops it was perfect I have a regular sized LP top from it I have not finished yet and this is what is left in my storage room.I am missing a couple of feet somewhere though...I can't recall what I did with it.I bought it like 5 years ago.Oh hell,I just remembered I cut some of it into neck lams...one is in my V and the rest are on unfinished necks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Hilarious as I just bought quiet a few board feet of Birdseye Maple. I use the Bandsaw for about everything. I use the Radial Arm saw for Crosscuts and Scarfs... and fret slots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 I need some measurements from a BC Rich Bich. I have a drawing and I want to make sure it is right. If anyone has a Bich they can measure I would be very grateful. I know how to scale drawing from pictures using known measurements... it is just that this thing is HUGE! I want to make sure it is right. I really just need the measurement at the widest part of the lower bout. (and maybe one at the narrowest part of the waist). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 Later today when I'm in my workshop I'll take a couple pics of s Bich template I made from my last USA Bich before I sold it. They are big, the width is similar to a V Funny you ask as I've been thinking if making myself a Bich lately! If you hold off for a while maybe we can have a "Bich Off" hahahaha there's a few guitars I need to build first so itll be a while and I know youve got plenty to keep you busy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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