iluvteles Posted June 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 I've trimmed the fretboard flush. I need to put the Abalone dots in before I sand the radius but I'm thinking again :o To scallop or not to scallop as I dont want to scallop out the frest laid dots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Maybe just scallop the last 4 frets, and put the dots in after you scallop, then file down the dots and finish with sandpaper, too easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 That was the plan Muzz but I've changed from Stew Mac fretwire to Jascar wire and its a bit taller so I think I'm going to give the scallops a mis on this one as they are a bit tricky to do well and the extra fret hieght keeps fingers off the board. BUT knowing me I dont stick to the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linny Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I don't see the point in scalloping the last 4 Lee. I have done it and it doesn't make much difference, if you think about it, your finger never comes close to touching the fretboard when the frets are that close together as they are at that end of the board. I just used a couple of rat tail files and a dowel wrapped in sandpaper to finish it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I know what you mean about the last 4 Linny. You wont really get the benifit. My original thoughts were to do it from the 12th to the 24th but after some thought today I think I'm trying to be too fancy with this build. I have to remember it's a strat with mods and I should not go overboard with it. Note too myself. I'm doing well on this build. I've had no major spanners in the works. Keep it to your building abilities and it's going to turn out great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2012 Nothing to report but I have a question to ask the forum. Do you need a special 3 way toggle switch when using EMG's. I'm using EMG 81 bridge 85 neck 1 vol 1 tone and a 3 way toggle. Can I use a standard Gibson type toggle switch? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 10, 2012 Report Share Posted June 10, 2012 Yes. Wire it up the same way as you would otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Nothing to report but I have a question to ask the forum. Do you need a special 3 way toggle switch when using EMG's. I'm using EMG 81 bridge 85 neck 1 vol 1 tone and a 3 way toggle. Can I use a standard Gibson type toggle switch? Thanks Toggle is standard pots should be 25k outputjack should be stereo for switching battery on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 OK thanks. I have a Switchcraft but its too long so will get ordering a new one today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Well this is the fretboard radiused, slotted and abalone dots inlayed. It looks good on the photo. Too bad its going to be ripped off and started again. The radius is 14" but changes to about 5" at the slot ends that will give raised sharp fret ends, also the board has been sanded more between 3 and 12th frets so its bowed. Its a shame and I'm as angry as hell but I have not spent all this time and money to have a fretboard that I'm not 100% happy with. I'm going to leave guitar biuilding a few weeks until I calm down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 That is exactly the right attitude to have, when you are not 100 % happy with a step undo the step and go from there. How much fretboard do you have left? Could you drop the neck off at your local repair/luthier shop and get them to flatten and re radius it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 I have a few options 1) Take the board off and replace it with another Wenge board and just do it all again. 2) Buy a pre radiused board as its the radiusing that I'm not good at. I may so for the compound radius board 10 to 14" from Stew mac. As for the remaining fretboard thickness, its about 4mm. I'm tending to be "liking" the Ebony compound radius board from Stew Mac eventhough its a bit expensive by the time it ships to the UK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwcarl Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 It does sound like it might still be possible to save that fretboard, but it would depend on how bad the radius errors are. I suppose part of the question will be whether in the process of correcting the radius you sand through your inlays. I used to have all sorts of problems with radiusing (over-radiusing the edges as you have), but I've learned to go slow and check the radius and level of the board constantly. Without inlays I'd also use a hand plane to speed up the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 I could try it but I think I'll sand through the abalone dots. There is not much left of them. I have always struggled with fb radius so I was thinking about buying a pre slotted and pre radiused fretboard. Problem is I cant seem to find any pre radiused to 14" to match my Schaller 14" radius bridge. Stew mac do pre radiused boards but they are 12". I dont know how a 12" fb will go with a 14" bridge? I have some 12" rosewood stew mac boards but they are 12" but I think they will work with the Coco body top. Or I'll have to go with the Stew Mac 10 to 14.5" compound radius if the 12" wont work. I feel a little under experienced with radiuses so if anybody wants to chip in feel. 12" fb versus 14" bridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 If the edges of your board are still thick enough just take your radius block and sand down to that level. You are basically just going to be sanding the center of your board. Use your current dots as a guide and re-drill and replace the dots. You've got nothing to lose but a little sweat. If you dork it up, you're in the same place you are now. If you get it right, pop in some new dots, surface them, and you're good to go. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 The edges are about 4mm thick. I suppose I have nothing to loose by trying to flatten it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Yep, if you have 4 mm left on the sides it should be savable. Make sure the fret slots are deepened. Flatten the middle and top of the fretboard with a router on rails. Put masking tape down the edges of the fret board to tell you if you are leaning over with the radiusing block and stop you over radiusing the edges. Start radiusing with the block, one slide down the entire board at a time. Keep checking the flatness length ways with a long steel ruler. Use the ruler to scrape any little irregularities straight again. Keep the radiusing block centred on the board, use your fingers to keep it level, even put a spirit level on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Thanks for the advice Muzz. I'm just not very good at the hand work of building. I'll just put it down to learning the craft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 Got the Ebony compound radius fretboard from Stew Mac today. They ship super fast. USA to UK in less than 48 hour. Started work on the new neck today. I already had the neck blank as I made 5, used one, sold one so had 3 spare. Cut the scarfe joint, milled it flat and glued it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 Todays progress. Scarfe joint levelled off and trus rod installed. I'm a bit off center with the trus rod but as we say up north "a man on a flying horse wont notice" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 I've only went and cut the headstock left handed. I'm such an eeejut. Although I dont think it looks so bad. Today I've profiled the neck but I still need to final shape the headstock. Also reduced the headstock down to 14mm thick. On a whim I've shaped a volute on the back. I dont know anything about volutes or how to do them so I just did this. If it turns out pap I'll just cut it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 Great to see this back on track and lookin rockin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted June 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 Thanks Muzz but.... I think the Owl and the Fox just do not want to made. I've only ruined neck number 2. I was using pins to stop glue slide but the fretboard slid anyway. Photo shows the fretboard not square to the neck. £30 Stew Mac board now no good. Option 1. Give up the Coco Gold EMG start aka The Owl and the Fox Option 2. Steam the Ebony board off and glue a new one on Option 3. Build a new neck again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightninMike Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 Option 2.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 If you're careful you can remove and reglue that board, it's been done thousands of times in repair shops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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