Muzz Posted April 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 The shape looks a lot like this '56 Ric: http://guitarz.blogspot.com/2012/04/1956-rickenbacker-combo-800-coolest.html Personally, I don't care for one horn being sharp and the other rounded. It feels like contradictory themes; unbalanced visually. For all my opinion is worth. Yes that is very close in shape The link you gave calls the Ricky Combo 800 the coolest guitar in the world, I wouldn't go that far but it does look cool. I was thinking amalgam of a tele and a Washburn Idol when I drew my shape, now I am wondering if Washburn took elements of the Combo 800 design Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 Time to start shaping the body. Here are the bits I will be using. The little one is called a Dado clean out bit, and will be used to scratch the surface on the first pass then route down about 2 mm. This should stop any splinters shearing off the top of the body. Then use the middle size bit and just drop down 2 mm at a time and switch over to the longer bit when needed. I will be doing a section at a time with a block of wood on the other side of the router to stop it wobbling. Can't wait to see the jagged edge come off this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 I caught the photo that Not You posted in misc, hot, hot, hot Rough cut and template clamped down with anti-wobble bars Scraping off the top layer Digging deeper Was it demonx who said Queensland Maple smells great? he was right, I am getting addicted to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Kicking back watching The Voice Here is the body routed down as far as I can go from the top Routed from the bottom This routing style takes a few hours but it works for me I like the router should when glides around the blank like a Ouija board on Oct 31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diffidentia Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Loving the shape! Personally I would have gone for a slightly less pointy treble horn, but I get what you're aiming for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Loving the shape! Personally I would have gone for a slightly less pointy treble horn, but I get what you're aiming for Hey, glad you like it, yes the treble horn is pretty much a knife's edge at the moment, I am not decided whether it is going to stay that sharp, it will probably get blunted just a little somewhere along the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Those edges are pretty charred up. It looks like you either need new bits, be more aggressive, or take smaller bites. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Yeah those burns are hard to sand out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Worried about router burn? It's time to change your manpon. Practice neck coming along OK But it is telling me my blank is still too thick, too much of a drop on the headstock Trying to work out if I can make a template which can be used to cut out the whole neck and stop router wobble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 But it is telling me my blank is still too thick, too much of a drop on the headstock About 3-4mm from the bottom of the fret board is enough. Do you have any drawings of fender necks ? I can send you some if you want. They illustrate it very well. PM me with a mail address & ill fire you some cad files or pdf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 But it is telling me my blank is still too thick, too much of a drop on the headstock About 3-4mm from the bottom of the fret board is enough. Do you have any drawings of fender necks ? I can send you some if you want. They illustrate it very well. PM me with a mail address & ill fire you some cad files or pdf. Fantastic, will do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 But it is telling me my blank is still too thick, too much of a drop on the headstock Why or how would too much drop be a problem on a non angled headstock? Looking good Muzz, this is fun to watch. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 But it is telling me my blank is still too thick, too much of a drop on the headstock Why or how would too much drop be a problem on a non angled headstock? Looking good Muzz, this is fun to watch. SR For the tuners closest to the nut, there may be a little too much tension to allow accurate / easy tuning. & if its a very high jump in level the low E & maby the A string just wont hold on the tuning post. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 I never thought of that, but I can see exactly what you mean. I never messed with any flat headstocks, but the strings do come off the posts at an angle don't they? I believe I'll just stick to angled headstocks. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Trying to work out if I can make a template which can be used to cut out the whole neck and stop router wobble. I have wondered the same thing recently and thought of a 4"-5" wide template with each edge being profiled, one for the left side and the other for the right side of the neck. That way there should be enough support for the base of the router. Liking the shape on this. The burn marks could be due to the router staying over that area to long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 But it is telling me my blank is still too thick, too much of a drop on the headstock Why or how would too much drop be a problem on a non angled headstock? Looking good Muzz, this is fun to watch. SR Cheers Scott, I am having fun with this. But it is telling me my blank is still too thick, too much of a drop on the headstock Why or how would too much drop be a problem on a non angled headstock? Looking good Muzz, this is fun to watch. SR For the tuners closest to the nut, there may be a little too much tension to allow accurate / easy tuning. & if its a very high jump in level the low E & maby the A string just wont hold on the tuning post. That's it, I would also be worried about a weak headstock. Tomorrow is a public holiday, I am going to study the diagrams you sent me Paulie and start drawing up the dimensions of the neck, I am thinking 23 frets, just to be different, I think it will also suit this body. Trying to work out if I can make a template which can be used to cut out the whole neck and stop router wobble. I have wondered the same thing recently and thought of a 4"-5" wide template with each edge being profiled, one for the left side and the other for the right side of the neck. That way there should be enough support for the base of the router. Liking the shape on this. The burn marks could be due to the router staying over that area to long. Yep that's along the lines I was thinking Jaycee , perhaps a truss rod channel route in the template to align it to the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Sides 95% cleaned up While listening to this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 (edited) The neck blank has to come down to 23 mm thick, I hacked off a bit with the plane Then buzzed it down Sanded it down Then if you want your ruler to sit dead flat on your neck, scrape it with your ruler Edited April 28, 2012 by Muzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 (edited) Finishing the sides of the body, I am using a razor blade not sandpaper Edited April 28, 2012 by Muzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supplebanana Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 Then if you want your ruler to sit dead flat on your neck, scrape it with your ruler I see POD!!!! looking good Muzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 I see POD!!!! looking good Muzz Cheers SB, I love my POD, and that one doesn't tell me to get a make under Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Finishing the sides of the body, I am using a razor blade not sandpaper Do you use the blade as is or do you turn a hook on the edge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Do you use the blade as is or do you turn a hook on the edge? Yes, I just used the blade as it is, you will have to tell me what turning a hook on the edge means Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 That's what you do with a scraper. You file the edge completely flat, then use a metal rod to create a hook on the newly-flattened corners. This hook is what does the scraping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Now I get it, Stew Mac explains it here http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Repair_tools,_specialized/i-3416.html A scraper with a hooked edge is like a micro plane? The technique I used dragged the blade along the wood with the edge facing away from the direction of travel, so there was no slice or planing effect. On one of the photos you can see the light dust it produced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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