hishiad Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 My father-in-law passed away last April and I was just given a classical guitar that belonged to him. I'll snap some photos to add to this thread soon. All pieces are thankfully with the guitar, but it seems like it is going to require some regluing. So a few first questions I have are. 1. What's the best way to remove the back completely to prep it for reglue? 2. What tools (clamps/glue/etc.) should I acquire to make this job easier? 3. I also need to reglue the bridge is there any thing about this process I should be aware of? Thanks, hishiad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hishiad Posted March 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 1: A clothes iron and a palette knife (thin, blunt edged spatula shaped thing) will get that back off very, very quickly. 2: Couple of cam clamps for the bridge (say 3), and cheapest option for doing the back will probably be roping or making spool clamps. I like go-bars, but that might be too fussy for this. 3: Scrape the gluing surfaces clean and use titebond. Most importantly, don't install the bridge backwards (which is how you've placed it in the pics) For glue, use Titebond original. This isn't a high-value classical, so no need to worry about 'vintage correct' anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workingman Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Check if there is a block of wood under the top under where the bridge goes and see that it is solid (not sure they have them on classical guitars). In the photo your bridge has the tie block near the neck and the saddle in the back. It goes the other way round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hishiad Posted March 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 1: A clothes iron and a palette knife (thin, blunt edged spatula shaped thing) will get that back off very, very quickly. 2: Couple of cam clamps for the bridge (say 3), and cheapest option for doing the back will probably be roping or making spool clamps. I like go-bars, but that might be too fussy for this. 3: Scrape the gluing surfaces clean and use titebond. Most importantly, don't install the bridge backwards (which is how you've placed it in the pics) For glue, use Titebond original. This isn't a high-value classical, so no need to worry about 'vintage correct' anything. 1. use the iron to heat the knife? 3. On the scraping the gluing surfaces is there a best method for this? Sand paper, scraper, razor blade, etc.??? If sand paper what grit is best Check if there is a block of wood under the top under where the bridge goes and see that it is solid (not sure they have them on classical guitars). In the photo your bridge has the tie block near the neck and the saddle in the back. It goes the other way round. Yeah I just laid the bridge on there. Also what about shining it up some and getting the rust off the tuning heads? Thanks for the replies too btw was worried I'd not get a response and be in the dark! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workingman Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 This tends to be a helpful place. Post what you learn as you go along so you can help others. You could try some fine grade steel wool to clean the rust. If that doesn't work, I wouldn't mess with the chemicals. Its not worth the mess and the danger. I would get new one. Basic classical tuners from Stewart McDonald or the like are not very pricey. Just make sure the spacing for the posts is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkAvenger Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 I'd carefully use a razor blade to scrape the glue off... but you really have to be careful. Follow up with 320, or start with 220 if it's still rough, then work your way up. I usually go up to 400. As for the tuning machines, I'd try some WD40 and fine steel wool. You might end up needing new tuners, depends on how well they work and what your aiming for. Do you need to remove the back? Some nylon strings would reduce the pressures involved. How is the neck relief? Those frets are looking pretty worn down too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 1. use the iron to heat the knife? 3. On the scraping the gluing surfaces is there a best method for this? Sand paper, scraper, razor blade, etc.??? If sand paper what grit is best Mask the guitar top with cardboard wrapped in tin foil, and apply the iron directly to the bridge. Scrape using a scraping device of some sort - I like cabinet scrapers for this, a single edged razor blade will do, you can sand if you want to. 220 grit is as far as I go for glue-ups in the rare event I glue a sanded joint (usually scrape or plane) Also what about shining it up some and getting the rust off the tuning heads? /quote] Brasso or other metal polish. Don't go too crazy. Mattia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/pagelist.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juntunen Guitars Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 1: A clothes iron and a palette knife (thin, blunt edged spatula shaped thing) will get that back off very, very quickly. 2: Couple of cam clamps for the bridge (say 3), and cheapest option for doing the back will probably be roping or making spool clamps. I like go-bars, but that might be too fussy for this. 3: Scrape the gluing surfaces clean and use titebond. Most importantly, don't install the bridge backwards (which is how you've placed it in the pics) For glue, use Titebond original. This isn't a high-value classical, so no need to worry about 'vintage correct' anything. Don't use titebond for these guitars, use hot hide glue. Titebond doesn't release as easily as hot hide does if you need to repair something in the future. I'm not sure how old or how much this guitar is worth but older instruments were built using hot hide anyways and vintage instruments should be repaired using the glue they were built with in my opinion. If you do use titebond use titebond 1 like mentioned above, titebond 2 does not allow water movement so the wood can't move and the guitar will likely fracture again. Another perk to using hot hide glue is that it tacks up well right off the brush, titebond will slip and slide until it is down for a few minutes when it begins to set up but hot hide will hold pretty solidly right off the bat but your working time with hot hide is limited so you have to work fast, heat up the gluing surface with a hair dryer for a while first so the glue doesn't jell to quickly. It doesn't look like you will need to remove the back, just work some glue in it and use cam clamps on the very edges of the guitar to hold it down. You may have to have someone push on the inside edge so that the back will sit flush after the clamps are applied. As for the bridge set it on the top where it will be lined up right and mask off the top around it on the fingerboard side and the two edges. I use blue painters tape because its adhesive isn't as sticky as the tan masking tape so you have less of a chance for the tape to pull the finish off when you remove it but I still will stick it to my jeans a few times to remove some of the adhesive first just to be safe. Use about three layers to build up a little bit of a wall so the bridge won't slide around on you. The reason for the tape is because cam clamps don't apply pressure directly down but will pull what they are clamping inwards so the tape will help hold it in place. I use hide glue for bridge reglues too because chances are you will have to do one again at some point and I hate trying to pry off titebond glued bridges because they usually take parts of the top with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 That guitar is a mass-produced, very likely cheap, plywood instrument. Not a finely crafted vintage classical. I would not hesitate to use titebond or epoxy. Or even superglue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkHenry Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Guitar is very nice but yes, it needs regluing. You can do it your self with the help of iron, glue, knife and some other things. But if you want to remove the back competely then I will suggest to do this process with proffessional guitar repairer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Titebond will be fine for this. I used it on my 12 string acoustic without any problems. If things do slide around then you have put to much on. With the correct amount of glue it will bite fairly quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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