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First Build - A Nylon String Superstrat


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Then again I'm not sure I'd want the body to have JUST oil, I thought of maybe doing the back and sides with Rustins Plastic Coat that I have waiting to be tried out, and juts oil the front. Or is this king of mixing up different stuff in different parts just asking for trouble?

Any opinions?

There are plenty of just oil finishes out there, likewise oiled necks with clear coated bodies. And, I'm pretty sure Paulie does oil and clear combos on bodies from time to time......if not fairly often.

SR

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Then again I'm not sure I'd want the body to have JUST oil, I thought of maybe doing the back and sides with Rustins Plastic Coat that I have waiting to be tried out, and juts oil the front. Or is this king of mixing up different stuff in different parts just asking for trouble?

Any opinions?

There are plenty of just oil finishes out there, likewise oiled necks with clear coated bodies. And, I'm pretty sure Paulie does oil and clear combos on bodies from time to time......if not fairly often.

SR

Indeed I do mr Scott.

I do a lot of oil back / sides with poly or nitro fronts. Not always with binding either. Sometimes I feather the clear on a top out towards the sides & oil the guitar from their on.

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Interesting. Thanks guys, good to know it is possible to do that. I was actually thinking of doing it the other way - oiling the top and putting RPC on the back and the sides. Right now I'm doing my first try with RPC, painting the cavity covers for this guitar and another one. I put in on off-cuts from the body and top so I'll have something to base my decision on.

Meanwhile I'm doing the neck. I leveled the nitro on the faceplate and started wetsanding it. Then I sanded the back all the way to P320 and put in the first coat of danish oil:

885170_10200326518078061_803901728_o.jpg?dl=1

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I broke out the RPC to paint cavity covers yesterday. Here's the one for this guitar - thin HDF with wenge veneer, painted with conductive tape on the bottom and sides - and three layers of RPC brushed over the wenge.

903789_10200331465001731_1803257091_o.jpg?dl=1

The reflection of my white wall makes it look less dark than it really is :P

So while I was painting I also did a piece of the imbuia top (and the body mahogany but I forgot to take a pic of that). Here it is, top left is 3 coats of RPC, below that is Danish Oil (only 2 coats or so, so ca get better) and on the right is bare wood on the body.

893836_10200331465041732_1336744264_o.jpg?dl=1

I'll put some more oil on the oiled part, level and buff the RPC part and do the same to the headstock where I have nitro. Then its decision time. :)

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Guest nandobang

pan_kara, you sure did an amazing job there, man! I watch this forum for quite some years, and this is one of my favorite builds since then. And the use of simple tools is inspiring to me, as I'm yet to build my first guitar.

Thanks for sharing all that progress!

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I aggree, the oil should do better. This is not a scientific comparison yet. I was sanding the part that got the RPC after having oiled the other part so maybe there's some dust or something. And there's only two coats of oil on there. I will put some more on and check again.

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Did it look deeper when it was wet and lighten as it dried? If that is an extremely porous top, and being a burl it likely is, the oil could have soaked so far below the surface that if dried duller and lighter. I have seen that with punky areas on spalted wood. If so, more coats should bring it closer in color to the RPC.

SR

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pan_kara, you sure did an amazing job there, man! I watch this forum for quite some years, and this is one of my favorite builds since then. And the use of simple tools is inspiring to me, as I'm yet to build my first guitar.

Thanks for sharing all that progress!

Thanks nandobang :D

It is indeed possible with simple tools and no woodworking experience - as in my case - so go for it! I'm happy that you like this build, I absolutely love the way its turning out, had a friend over a couple of days ago when the guitar was still assembled, he didn't want to put her down and kept commenting how comfortable it was to play.

Can't wait to finish it!

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If I am going to be oiling a thirsty top, I usually use an external tung oil. Put it on with a rag, don't spread it around too much. The external stuff seems to seep in a lot less than interior grade oils. then put a wax over it & buff it up. But I also usually do the oil after I do the RPC stuff.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, after the input from you guys I've decided to keep my original idea of keeping the top with just oil. I added more oil to the testpiece and the colors improved a lot.

The neck got oiled and waxed in the meantime, I just need to buff the nitro on the head plate.

The body had some mahogany pore filler, sandind and then I started on the RPC. Here's the first coat fresh after brushing:

902057_10200409864441668_1287738510_o.jp

I put 4 in total over one day and left to dry. That was Friday, I'm still waiting before I start wetsanding. I didnt manage to keep the top clean so I'll probably sand this off before I wetsand the back:

905393_10200423358219004_377592772_o.jpg

But in general looks like the end is near :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Through trial and error I'm slowly learning this whole wetsanding thing. First mistake that I was making in the past I only realized now, since this was the first time I tried to level and all-brushed finish. I was using some foam-backed paper holder and it was too soft - it smoothed out the smaller brush marks etc but the mirror surface I got after polishing was nowhere near flat.

I changed that to cork and that made it much better. On the sides, where I was getting a lot of runs and stuff I used a scraper and followed that by the small micromesh pads. This actually turned out really well.

The only problem... I went through in a couple of places. Since RPC hardens chemically not by solvent evaporation the drop-fills I'm doing now will not be perfect I guess - unlike nitro, which I believe is very forgiving in that respect. We'll see how well I'll be able to blend them in.

In-progress shot:

914025_10200455377939477_388468787_o.jpg

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very cool man i love this idea

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys. I'm really thrilled to have dreamed up this project and now see it finally take shape, pretty close to the original concept. I'm loving this guitar building thing :D

Anyway, she's almost there. I mounted the volume pot, the graphtech preamp etc:

964845_10200550463356553_902713188_o.jpg

Waiting for the neck and the strings:

964926_10200550502917542_42869324_o.jpg?

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Ok, she's nearly ready. I only need to redo the volume knob since this is just one I was testing on that I put here as a placeholder. And I need to get new strings since the A sting snapped for some weird reason. Thankfully I managed to take a few shots before that happened:

964622_10200553113342801_2084965014_o.jp

901307_10200552728293175_199799637_o.jpg

901205_10200555039190946_1831080858_o.jp

913769_10200551308657685_1090318730_o.jp

Edited by pan_kara
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Thanks guys!

@The Fool Guy

Build one man, when you're done with that cool strat of yours ;) ! Its major fun, almost no routing except the neck pocket (at least the way I did it) and its tremendous fun to play. The softness and classical spacing combined with a thin electric-like neck and body make it quite unique.

I will post a sound clip sometime when I fix the string issue..

Edited by pan_kara
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