RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Fitting the center strip took a couple passes through the jointer. It is tight enough I have to bang it to get it in but it slides right out. This should be fun as the weather changes. These are the huge dogs I came up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Moving the neck jig to the new bench. I used to screw it to the other bench. I decided to make this one fit and clamp itself with a tap from the hammer.The irony of this photo was apparent as I was working on adding the funny feet to the neck jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 So it drops in the slot and secured by the feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 I am already starting to see the advantages of the split top as I start work on the carving booster thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 During the finishing process I like to lay the guitar flat off the bench. I have built this system at least 3 or 4 times now. It seems like every season I find a reason to destroy the old one. I decided I needed a really small one built from scraps so I wouldn't need to destroy it for space reasons.I use a 3" screw in the strap button hole on my guitars during finishing as support and to help protect the butt from banging into things. It also serves as a pivot point for finishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 The neck support ended up being more complicated than I wanted but I like the design now. Once the glue dries I will remove the clamps.The neck support has a tenon to lock it to the table.There is a slight angle on the tenon that makes it tight when you push it all the way in. It only comes out in one direction.So now the bench has built in removable supports for guitars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Working on the carving station. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Genius idea. I might have to "borrow" that for my own rotisserie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Ok. Sometimes things go bad... My '72 Craftsman Radial Arm saw has developed a serious case of wobble in the beam. I am devastated as I built the whole shop around the saw... I am going to try to "fix" it but I might end up having to replace it. The good thing is Radial Arm saws are the T-Rex of the saw world. They are becoming extinct fast and you can get a really nice one on Craigslist for almost nothing. Now for the real problem. Do I "fix/Replace" or do I try using a new compound sliding miter saw to do fret slotting. I just built the stupid Multiscale jig and I hate to adapt it to another tool but it might be a better choice. Tools to be swapped out/bought new this year: The Performax 16-32 is getting replaced with a SuperMax 19-38 I am adding a Buffing Station. Probably going to buy this kit. Caswell Buffing Kit Mainly because an Arbor and an Electric motor take up too much room and I am not giving all my money to Stew Mac or LMI. I looked into the Shop Fox W1681 for $99.00 at grizzly but by the time I added all the things I needed I was over the price of this kit. Looking into a veneer press or vacuum press system. Also looking into CNC Mill. I know I need a new wood CNC but I really want to start working on metal parts. The Sherline is small but I really don't need a big machine just a machine to make saddles and bridges and tuners. Sherline CNC Mill If I don't go that route I am going to add a Mini Mill and do the work by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Do not go the compound mitre saw. Thats what I use and I want to upgrade to an old Radial arm saw! Too much flex in the mitre saws and you'll regret the purchase. If you watch my video you'll see how fast I pull it through the fingerboard. This is so I get a straight smnooth cut. If you pull it through slow, the slot will be buggered. At the speed I do it they're slotted great, but its dangerous. I will be changing saws when it fits into my budget (when one close pops up on ebay) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Do not go the compound mitre saw. Thats what I use and I want to upgrade to an old Radial arm saw! Too much flex in the mitre saws and you'll regret the purchase. If you watch my video you'll see how fast I pull it through the fingerboard. This is so I get a straight smnooth cut. If you pull it through slow, the slot will be buggered. At the speed I do it they're slotted great, but its dangerous. I will be changing saws when it fits into my budget (when one close pops up on ebay) Thank you Sir! That is what I was afraid of. The old Radial Arm saw was perfect until the beam started wobbling. I use my radial Arm saw everyday I am in the shop. It is the second most important tool after the Band saw. I found an Original Arm Saw for cheap close by I might just bite the bullet and invest in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Don't get me wrong, I've got a larger sliding mitre saw that gets used quite often, but only for docking. I've got the panel saw which I use quite often. Both are money well spent, however I wish I went radial rather than compound when I put together the slotting setup. I've just been in eBay after my last post and still, nothing affordable within an hours drive. If yours didn't used to wobble and it does now, it should be fixable. Something loose or something worn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Don't get me wrong, I've got a larger sliding mitre saw that gets used quite often, but only for docking. I've got the panel saw which I use quite often. Both are money well spent, however I wish I went radial rather than compound when I put together the slotting setup. I've just been in eBay after my last post and still, nothing affordable within an hours drive. If yours didn't used to wobble and it does now, it should be fixable. Something loose or something worn? I think the problem is with the Column Tube Key. I am hoping it is just worn a bit and I can adjust it. The problem is the key has a nylon bushing. If the nylon bushing is gone I might be able to make a new one but finding a replacement will be hard. I will need to take it apart to inspect it. It is worth fixing because the saw is of very good quality and the only real upgrades are very expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 If it comes down to it, at least you know someone with a CNC to machine you some replacement parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 If it comes down to it, at least you know someone with a CNC to machine you some replacement parts! Funny. But yes when if I get the CNC Mill making parts would be an option. My dad still does machine work at his house so if I need it done by hand I would go see him (he grumbles but really likes it when I ask his help) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 (edited) Ok bought ordered the new buffing system from Caswell. I hope it turns out to be what I need. I am going to go back to nitro finishes so buffing becomes a necessary evil. Using a car buffer has not worked well. Edited August 13, 2013 by RestorationAD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 Any ideas on vacuum press system?I am struggling with the cost/space/usefulness of a vacuum system for gluing tops. I am wondering if a Go-Bar system makes more sense from a total cost standpoint. I can build a Go-Bar system with a ton of bars for under $100. Vacuum systems cost about $500 bucks just to get started. The go-Bar system is big but I could make one that is easy to break down.I like the idea of bubble free epoxy in voids though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 I would have thought a go-bar system would struggle to develop enough pressure to glue a carve top to a body blank, especially with the small amount of distributed force exerted at the end of each rod? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 I was looking at similar type mounted buffer options (local, stewmac, homemade etc) for a long time before I ended out with the handheld buffer I use now. No regrets either. Hope it works out for you. It's funny, you're moving back to spray finishes and I'm looking at going back to oil finishes (on a few builds anyway) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 I would have thought a go-bar system would struggle to develop enough pressure to glue a carve top to a body blank, especially with the small amount of distributed force exerted at the end of each rod? I am worried about this as well. That is why my third option is a custom screw veneer press. I just haven't had time to draw up the plans for it yet.I was hoping someone who own a Go-Bar system can chime in.I do think that given enough bars clamping force will not be an issue. I can buy 4 12' bars for $30.00 that is 24 2' bars and that would cover a lot of area. I was looking at similar type mounted buffer options (local, stewmac, homemade etc) for a long time before I ended out with the handheld buffer I use now. No regrets either. Hope it works out for you. It's funny, you're moving back to spray finishes and I'm looking at going back to oil finishes (on a few builds anyway)Well lets just say my recent attempts at not doing spray finishes on certain types of tops resulted in a renewed love for spray finishes.Basically cocobolo, ziricote, and figured maple really need at least a few coats of a film finish to look right. And since I am not going to go all crazy and do 2 part finishes it means Nitro. Nitro means buffing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 Go bars are most commonly used for bracing backs and tops of acoustics where the parts are small and flexible. You are working with resistant materials which need large even application of pressure, not specifically concentrated in small spots. A single go bar may exert a few psi with each bar end but a top needs anywhere from 400-1200 across the entire surface. Go bars would work but you would need hundreds, perhaps thousands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 This is the kit I put together for my vacuum press~ http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Project-EVS-Auto-Cycling-Pump-Vacuum-Press-Kit.html A rebuilt pump is another hundred or so, and fifty for the bag, so it gets a little pricey, but it really works nicely, and so much easier than mucking with a million clamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 14, 2013 Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 I don't want to drag this off-topic but hey. I've been weighing up the pros and cons of adding something like their V2 Venturi press to the rear right underside of my Roubo bench. It would be fantastic to hook up a compressed air line for bagging on the bench or vacuum workholding jigs. Shame that the Mac valve needs to be powered. Can a vacuum bagging system be simpler than that, ie. by using a Venturi, manual air valves, a reservoir and a vacuum gauge? Just having an air line spur would be sweet and compact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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