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Searls Guitars Build Thread


demonx

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Do you go for full depth in one pass?

On most routes no, on this route yes.

Something like mahogany cuts like butter, this Wenge in the video was putting up a fight as you probably tell. It's pretty hard timber.

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@ Tyler

You asked about mulitple piece laminations and how I do it, so I snapped these pics today for you.

First I get the laminations in place with a couple of quick clamps, then drill two holes far on the outside where they'll be cut off. I dont drill completely through the last piece as it leaves a cup for the dowel to sit in:

IMG_4531small_zps2165267a.jpg

Using the two holes with a bit of dowel sitting in them I make a big timber kebab:

IMG_4534small_zps242a4048.jpg

Then clamp the hell out of it:

IMG_4535small_zps512871f8.jpg

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After in a recent build, drilling through the top of the guitar by accident in attempt to drill the electronics hole from the cavity to the neck pickup, I devised the idea thinking I was a pure genius only to find out its been done before, of pre routing a channel in the wing before glue up, so that when routed the channel meets with the pickup cavities.

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IMG_4550small.jpg

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Multi lam neck with matching fingerboard.

Can't do much more to the board as I'm waiting for the customer to supply some special binding he has ordered and insists on. Also with the body, waiting on the customer to come and get the shape "locked in" and organised as he wants his own design.

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I like the idea of a lam fretboard but am curious how it will hold up with expansion contraction rates of the differing timbers. Are you going to put a finish on it (clear) or are you just using oil?

I really dont see it being a problem. As noted above by Wes, Conklin and others have been doing it for years. Besides, if it's not good enough for a neck ....

The guitar will be cleared, so theres a chance I might have to clear the board to color match the rest of the guitar.

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Tip when drilling holes.

If yuou're drilling a steep angle from a pocket you dont want the drill to touch the edge, simple tape a bit of metal across the edge and if the drill bumps it, the project wont get damaged. Some people put a bit of tube over the drill bit for the same effect but I find that hinders my angle at times.

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When I do truss rods I put a small bead of silicone under each end of the truss rod before pushing it into the slot. This will ensure that twenty thirty years down the track if the wood has ever moved, expanded or whatever that there will be no truss rod rattle.

I also wipe a bead of silicone over both ends, which stops the glue from squeezing down into the threads and hindering the rod. Be aware of how much you squeeze in as if the silicone spreads all over the place it will stop the wood glue from fixing the fingerboard, so you only want the bare minimum and try not to wipe it over the timber surface like I accidentally did a tiny bit in this pic and had to clean up!

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