Prostheta Posted January 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 Hey John - ever seen much of the old MIJ Aria Pro II stuff? This one is a particularly nice example: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281048213741&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Morciglio Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 Remember checking out some of their basses. Back in the 80's. Very nice instruments. I liked the headstock shape and neck-thru. (always had Ric's back then). Two other examples I found but didn't link are; Washburn, not sure of the model. Slanted/patented sound ports. And an Ibanez (ab200?) they have one with the florentine cutaway, and one with a softer cut. If I was looking for another full hollowbody. One of these examples would have fit . Without finding the super-rare Gibby's. Funny how the traditional/familiar shapes draw me in the most. JM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 A few years back, Ibanez made a range of "Artcore" instruments with plain flamed Maple tops which I took quite a liking to. I checked them out in a big music store in Paris and really liked the Superstrat-ish one with the f-hole. Almost considered buying one for my wife. You're right about the traditional shapes thing to a point. I still feel the need to take these old standards and instill new ideas or technologies into them. Nomex crossed my mind at one point despite not having any direct experience with it. I wonder how that would increase the usually-disappointing performance of acoustic or hollowbody basses? Obviously I have my instruments of choice, which are becoming 5-stringers more than as not. Being able to produce a convincing and practical 5-string bass outside of the standard electric solidbody fare would buck the general trend of disappointing 5-string acoustic/hollow basses. The ones that have any clout are totally out there and not traditional in the slightest....! The Warwick Alien was warmly received....but look at it! hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Morciglio Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 The Nomex idea is interesting. Have some here and also Clego-cell and Divina-cell foam-core products. The Nomex is the hardest/ most dense of the 3 types I use. Also the most expensive. I worrie about ANY type of damping effect? Contacted by some guys that are trying to build carbon drum shells. They determined they needed to varie the density in the shells. Like a graduated plate of an archtop? JM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Morciglio Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Have not really compared my Ovation, to any other true hollowbody basses. It is a pleasure to play unplugged. The preamp/EQ, seems to have a wide, usefull range. They tried to talk me into a carbon top (91') when I ordered it. I said "no way" and thought they were just trying to sell me something. Didn't know I would be working with it full-time later. Originally chose the Adamas 6-string guitar over all the other acoustics I tried. Carbon top-plate. Could not overcome the "embelished/be-dazled" headstock. Plain ones were not available at the time. So I got an Elite with the spruce top. 1/2 as much cash also! Should have listened to the custom-shop recomendations. My bridge is lifting/seperating. Common with the Korean basses. (and aperantly the US made as well)? Went to fix it a while back and it's going to be a tough one. Need to lightly score the finish (so it doesn't peel/flake) without cutting into the wood to re-attatch. JM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Technically, varying density is not the right term? To me this implies that the material varies in its intrinsic property density rather than something more normal like say, thickness. I presume they would mean laminations to create thinner areas and thicker where structural strength is important. How do different weaves work in tops, out of curiosity? Is it more a case of it becoming irrelevant once the composite is set up and the structural aspects are met? Again, I am throwing ideas around. When it comes down to it - unless something very important sways me - I will definitely explorer the carved top approach for the acoustic benefits whilst doing a parallel build in laminate for the complete opposite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Morciglio Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 http://www.musiciansfriend.com/bass/washburn-ab10-4-string-acoustic-electric-bass Definately NOT a Gibson, but for $329.00??? Don't see how they can even build these instruments for that kind of money? Well, I do but..... Looks like a "thin bodied" acoustic. The reveiws say it NEEDS to be plugged in. My Ovation w/deep bowl, is plenty loud/satisfying, for practicing un-plugged. Not sure if it would keep up with other acoustics played together? The Elite guitar is noticably louder. Also, deep-bowl. The guy working on the carbon drums was kind of guarded with the graduated thickness'. He wanted all kinds of molding info from me though? I offered to build some molds for them. They are trying to patent their ideas. He did let on that there are other drums with different shell wall-thickness'. Said that some look tri-color and are actually 2 and 3-peice shells attatched/glued with a flange or lap-joint of some sort. Not that into drums. I'll bang on them when I get the chance and would like to get some for my kids. JM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Morciglio Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 Just re-read on the drum coment. They ARE trying to change the resonent frequency in certain area's WITHOUT putting "steps' or ridges inside the shell. Seems like it would need to be stiffer at the drum head? Maybee the opposite? Caron tops; Have been experimenting with top thickness. Can build them so they don't need any bracing; this fights feedback AND lowers acoustic response. Trying to find a happy medium. If you want to play loud, plugged in. Then a tone-block under the bridge helps fight feedback. Purchased a couple low-watt tube amps. You can crank these full-hollow and not have a problem. (using common sense where you stand of course). Also have a 180watt Twin reverb. This amp only starts to really sing at "5" or above. Much more care must be taken to avoid too much feedback. On a big, or outdoor stage. They are VERY playable full-hollow. JM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 Will feed back into this after the red wine fuelled night of messing with my new Raspberry Pi wears off. Yeeeeesh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 Okay, so a little more on this one in terms of material selection. Did a bit of resawing on some slightly spalty Visakoivu (Karelian Birch) today to produce sets of bookmatched tops varying from 18-21mm and sets of sides. Most of the tops will go towards solidbody carves and basses however some will be resawn again for the backs of acoustics and archtops. That Alder in the background isn't mine. Pshaw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 29, 2013 Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 Holy mechanical monsters Batman, now that's a bandsaw! SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 It's an old Stenner VHM 36 resaw machine. The blade is 3-4" wide with a kerf of around 1,5mm. Not the most accurate to set up initially unless you send test pieces through plus it needs the stock tensioning on the outfeed to keep the end of the cut straight. I've only started using it recently and did a lot of work on it today. This is a bigger version (42" rather than 36"): I thicknessed the thin stuff to about 5mm because I don't know what it'll do after being cut. Birch doesn't grow as big as Maple so there is a lot of potential radial movement because of the sizes. Fingers crossed (nonsense idea) that it'll stay as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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