Robbinst Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hey guys I have about five builds going at the moment that I would like to show you but it would been unnecessary to clutter the forum with a thread for each. Instead I thought it would be better to put all my stuff in one spot like a few others have done. I will also continue builds from other threads here. Here are a few builds I have been working on. The one with the laminated body is particularly special to me because it is being built for my dad. It will include a 58 piece inlay on the back of his snake tattoo that he got in memory of his own father. sappelli body and neck with curly maple cross laminations! korina body, myrtle wood top, paduak fb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted April 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 ash body, walnut top, maple neck, and a cocobolo fb Gonna be late for work! I'll get more pics soon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted April 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Tip: Be careful if when sanding metal inlays, they can heat up quickly and melt the epoxy causing them to rise from the cavity. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Seriously cool inlay work Tyler.....which you are becoming known for around here. That almost....but not quite....looks like snakewood you used for the serpent's body. What is that, lacewood? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted April 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Thanks Scott! To be honest with you I dont know what kind of wood it is I was at my local lumber supplier and saw a sheet of it on a table, it varied in thickness and was about 1/8" at its thickest point. They lady had no use for it and gave it to me for nothin! Not a bad find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 That inlay looks pretty cool! I also agree about the one thread for everything thing. Its a good idea. For the members who are building and doing other related things regualry theres no point having dozens of different threads which just creates clutter as you called it. For example if you include the couple refurbs I've got at the moment there is about eight or so guitars in the workshop at the moment, theres no need for eight or so threads when they can be bundled into one and keep the place tidy. If people arent interested they can just ignore the one thread rather than be annoyed by eight seperate ones! Back to topic though, nice work. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 I have started the finishing process for the seven string and duality based builds. I used an epoxy as a grain filler, let it cure, started to sand back. I will repeat this process one more time to make sure that when the clear coat is applied there will be minimal shrink back if any and a thinner finish can be used. Its not much to look at now but it will make all the difference in the outcome of the final product. Thanks for the info and help with this part Demonx, I appreciate it sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted April 18, 2013 Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 With the sanding block, I've got those dura blocks and all sorts of other flash car sanding blocks but I don't use them on guitars When sanding guitars I only use the small cork blocks that are a couple dollars from a normal hardware shop for the block sanding and then the paper in my hand for all curves and then later for all finish sanding I work in X patterns as that way it hits it from multiple angles making sure you get an even cut/sand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted April 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 They have been working great for me so far so Ill stick with them for a bit, but Ill keep those cork ones in mind. Theres always room for more tools and supplies! truss rod installed with a walnut filler strip, and the walnut headstock plate was placed also I love the cocobolo fretboard and it looks even better with a finish on it! I wanted a matching walnut plate on the reverse side of the headstock so I broke out the bendin pipe to create the volute curve. More epoxy and time to wait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted April 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2013 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Your work is inspiring as usuall! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted April 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 Still letting the epoxy cure so I decided to get a little farther with the walnut build over the last few days. Made some good progress! The heel carve needs a lot more attention but that will come once the neck is glued in to get a nice smooth transition. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 I see some nice curls and my old friend the palm gouge in there.......there aren't many of us out there that use them. It's nice to see someone else that likes carving with them. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliemc Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Hey man. what are u you using to heat that bending iron ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 http://m.homedepot.com/p/Brinkmann-Electric-Charcoal-Starter-812-9137-S/202519662/ I took that electric charcoal ignighter and bent the loop together enough to fit in the pipe which i believe is 2.5 or 3 inches. I also took a standard dimmer switch and wired it into the power chord so it now acts as a temperature control. Its not fancy but it works haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 You're ballsier than I. I have this innate fear of routing the neck pockets before things are carved, sanded, etc. etc. Your belly carve is extremely original. I really like it! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 You're ballsier than I. I have this innate fear of routing the neck pockets before things are carved, sanded, etc. etc. Your belly carve is extremely original. I really like it! Chris Thanks! But I cant take credit for it. One of my builds is based on a Vik and I really enjoyed doing the carves on it so I decided to try them on my own shape. I really love their accentuated style . It takes a bit longer but the final result makes it worth the effort to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 I see some nice curls and my old friend the palm gouge in there.......there aren't many of us out there that use them. It's nice to see someone else that likes carving with them. SR I really love carving with it be cause of the amount of control I have over the removal of the material. I have used all different kinds of sanders and rough files to shape carves but this along with my scraper and some 80grit is my new favorite method. I think I need to look into a bigger gouge though. The blade is on the small side and the handle decided to wear holes in both my hands after awhile haha. Any recommendations Scott? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Actually, what you 've got there is one of my favorites. I use one of the same shape only twice as wide for carving tops and scoops and cutaways like you've got on the back. I use one just like you're showing there and one about half that wide for neck transitions and fun stuff on the headstock. I like that shape of handle best for the control......it's the other end that ends up putting a whole in my hand. I would suggest that you're not touching up the edge often enough if it is making your hands sore, but those curls look like they came from a sharp edge to me. I touch my edges up every 10 to 15 minutes when I'm carving. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YetzerHarah Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 I still need to get me a set of those Ramelson sets like you recommended Scott, probably next time I visit my parents back in the states. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Its been awhile guys, I had a few things slow me down in the shop but I have two builds getting buffed today or tomorrow so hopefully I can get them together and have something to show ya soon. For now I have a question. A friend of mine works on expensive houses and a recent project called for mother of pearl tiles. They ended up over ordering and he gave me what was left of the pearl for simply setting up his guitar. It just seems to good to be true though because there is so much and its all white and semi figured. I know they can make synthetic pearl but some of these peices have thickness variation as if it was where the shell started to curve. It feels right and sounds like MOP when I drop it. I obviously dont want to compare the smell of the dust because I dont want that stuff, real or fake, in my lungs. Is there a way to tell if its real or not? Heres some pics, let me know what you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Yes. Very easy to tell by sending the bag to my address Chris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 haha saw that coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supplebanana Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Try setting light to it - if it's plastic or cellulose it'll burn, if it's shell it will scorch 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted July 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Just held a piece over a flame. After about thirty seconds the corner turned alittle brown so I guess thats a good sign! My friend said that it was $20 a sheet for these 1" x1/2" tiles. Im not sure how big a sheet is but Ill look into it and let you know. Who knows they might have bigger tiles too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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