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7 Strings Ash/wenge


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Whoa this looks killer! How did you manage to get such an even surface with the brushed-on nitro? Just sanding with a hard block? What grits did you go through? Care to share the process? :)

Sure, I'll try to explain... that's really a sanding job. It takes several days to complete due to the crappy surface the brush usually gives... anyway, the procedure was:

- 6 coats of grain filler. I usually don't use grain filler if working with mahogany, sapelle or alder, but ash and wenge have very deep pores, so this time it was needed. Sanding with 120 grit between coats.

- Once all pores are covered, I start applying the nitro. Four coats in total, keeping drying each coat about 4/5 days. No sanding between coats, but it's very important you 'cross' the brush at every coat. I.e. you paint the first coat from north to south, the second from east to west, next from N to S and so on... sorry, I haven't a better way to explain this, hope you understand. <_<

- Once you have all coats of nitro, let dry about 2/3 days and start to wet sanding. I know this is not very orthodox, but I only use one grit, 240 in this case. The reason is because I need a 'hard' grit to eliminate all brush marks, but it turns smoother while using it, so I really don't need smoother sanding papers... instead of that, I use a wet scotch brite as last grit, just before polishing.

- And the final polish is the common procedure, first with car polish and next with wax. That's all. I must say nitro is very shiny and grateful, I couldn't get that surface with polyurethane.

Thanks everybody for comments, glad you all like it. I'll have a try at GOTM this month, just in case... ;)

cheers!

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Thanks psikoT. The cross-brushing, graing filling etc I think I more or less got myself, the secret here was the 240 girt I think. I started a lot higher. I think I was trying to sand with P320 between coats when brushing on nitro and then wetsanded with P600 or P800 onwards. Then the usual polish, wax etc - I ended up with mirror shine but the mirror was not "uniform", the reflection was distorted by the general "wavyness" of the surface I created. I'll try 240 next time I'm at the finishing stage (probably some time from now).

Just to clarify:

- you did 240 wet or dry?

- what did you use for backing?

Thanks again for sharing! And do enter in GOTM! ;)

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Polyurethane is even glossier, well, automotive 2 part polyurethane, but you used to paint with wooden floors polyurethane, which i told you is damn hard, and you need special equipment to properly buff it.

Nitro lacquer is easier to work with, but too fragile, prone to scratching, yellowing, shrinking, cracking and never really cures.

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ust to clarify:

- you did 240 wet or dry?

- what did you use for backing?

- 240 wet sanding...

- what do you mean with backing?

Polyurethane is even glossier, well, automotive 2 part polyurethane, but you used to paint with wooden floors polyurethane, which i told you is damn hard, and you need special equipment to properly buff it.

Nitro lacquer is easier to work with, but too fragile, prone to scratching, yellowing, shrinking, cracking and never really cures.

yes, you're right.

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I ended up with mirror shine but the mirror was not "uniform", the reflection was distorted by the general "wavyness" of the surface I created.

I had the same issue in the past, I think it is due to a non-uniform coat at brushing time, not related to sanding imho.

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I just saw this arrive on the GOTM page. You sir are a beast. I love this and hats off to you for a beautiful guitar. I thought Searls Clancy Star was a shoe in for July but now that you've thrown this into the mix I'm going to have a problem voting. This build just oozes class.

Did I mention I love this? Just wow.

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