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Ritter Jupiter Copy (Aka The Fugly Fretless)


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  • 1 month later...

so after a complete failure with a board of wenge that I had intended to use as fingerboard- I am using my last nice piece of indian rosewood I have on hand. The wenge ended up looking horrible and boring after I thicknessed it down- I had this vision- and reality just wasnt happening so- probably for the best cause I hate wenge - I really hate working with it. If I had proper tools I probably might not hate it so bad- but right now I just hate it.

anyway-

so I get my IR board thinned down and I touched it up with orbital sander and some 120 grit. then it occurs to me as I pull out my stew mac radius block that this board is 3.5" wide. Guess its time to make a 14" radius block that will be wide enough to handle this.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was a bit worried about routing out this headstock shape- so- copying the method shown on O'brien guitars you tube channel- I did the drill press routing method- and its freaking awesome. it took at while- 25 minutes approx to do the whole thing- but no tearout- the tops of the "balls" didnt get routed exactly to shape- but that was my fault- (there wasnt any wood backing the bit- so it tended to move out when I went around those balls- if I had left more wood at the top of the headstock- i wouldnt have run into that- easily fixed though with a bit of rasp/sandpaper-

here is the drill bit in the press-5/32"/ 4mm bit.

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here is the headstock about 9/10ths of the way thru-noticed the small portions that were not quite cut at the top of the circular areas

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  • 1 month later...

wow- almost 2 months since my last post. poof.

I finally got back out in the garage- started working on the upper horn of this bass. Went to the router table, started to round over the edge, but stopped short of the top of this as I wanted to do the rest by hand, using the part I did round over with the router as a guide. I was going to do most of this horn with my black and decker 1/2" belt sander tool- but decided to put on some tunes, grab a rasp, and have at it.

started out something like this

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after about an hour I am about half way done. I had to stop and keep referencing my ipad and finding pics on this thing- tricky little carve it is. still a bunch of work to go on this

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back

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Dude......I'm not a bass guy, but that is one crazy looking bass. I know you are working toward a standard, that is, an existing model, but when you are at the final details, I suggest going with feel. In other words if that carve feels right, it is right--even if it differs slightly from your target. It will look the same either way... but if it feels right, it is better than whatever you'll find chasing what looks right on your I-pad.

SR

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I hear ya Scott- my issue at first though wasnt I couldnt get my head around the "3-d" of the shape- looking at (essentially) 2d pics from "straight on" front and back view only. once I found a pic of someone playing one (looking towards the horn from the headstock point of view) and saw that the shape was like a "spoon" with a small curl towards the tip- it all clicked. I typically use shadow lines to help me picture these things- but with this I couldnt quite do it until I found that pic. Now that I have the shape roughed in- it is as you saw- until it feels right.

I think my biggest thing now will be making sure all the long lines flow smoothly with no visible "bumps" or waves on the lines. that and making my radius sanding block for this fretboard which is a pia.

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I think my biggest thing now will be making sure all the long lines flow smoothly with no visible "bumps" or waves on the lines.

Yeah, that can make or break the look of a carve with long flowing curves. Actually any curve. If the lines get interrupted by humps, bumps or sudden changes in direction that break up the flow, my eye goes straight to that spot every time. And it can never be un-seen.

This one ought to be a lot of fun to carve. I can't wait to see how it ends up.

SR

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If it helps. When I did a ritter-ish bass a few years ago I made a mould out of cardboard, tape & cling film. Melted a whole pile of crappy candles into it & done my initial conceptual carve of the thing in wax. Just to be sure that what was in my head was gona work in real life.

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got a bit of work done in "snow bound" Georgia this past week. I ended up plugging the holes I had drilled in the butt end tail section of this- I will have to re-drill them- that one that was out of line was bugging the hell out of me.I am on my second attempt of making a 3.5" wide 14" radius sanding block for the fretboard. I am at a bit of a standstill until that is done. I radius the fretboard before gluing to the neck.

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Beautiful. A little more on the edge carving? or keeping it about the same?

with that bridge, will it need to be recessed for height and tilt? by looking at some of the ritter basses the bridge has a slight lean to it

I am probably about 85 percent done with the carving. At this point- I will not be doing anymore until I have the neck pocket cut. I typically wouldnt have done any carving yet until that is cut- but I was itchin to get movin on it. I have to go back and clean up with a fine rasp and then the fun of sanding this beotch starts. if you look at the pic of the back- you can still see the center line on the bottom of the body edge-so- I still have some work to make these round overs more "ovalish" than fatty round if you follow me. Right now this is "fatty round". At this point though sandpaper even really alters the lines- so- again- no more until the neck is in. The upper horn especially will be sanded into final shape. (thus the roughness to that edge)

as far as the bridge-its a TOM type- so I had intended on putting in a neck angle-but I am waiting until all is said and done- ie- how thick is the fretboard after I get done sanding the radius in- but as far as any tilt -no- the posts are drilled in straight on, and any tilt will occur in the neck pocket only.

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  • 2 years later...

wow- looks like my last post was in Feb of 2014 or so.

**Poof**  

So- life got in the way for me a bit. I had to concentrate my efforts and time in other places. 

I am starting to get the itch again. its been a while. 

first things first, time to clean up the garage- literally - my "shop" has been a wreck for the last 2.5 years, 

at the speed I move- it may be another 2 months before I make the first pile of sawdust..gotta start somewhere. 

 

first things first though. gotta get used to this new site, and clean the garage 

glad to see some old timers are still around. and wow- a beer convo in one of the other forums- . nice. 

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On 9/15/2016 at 9:08 PM, Mr Natural said:

wow- looks like my last post was in Feb of 2014 or so.

**Poof**  

So- life got in the way for me a bit. I had to concentrate my efforts and time in other places. 

I am starting to get the itch again. its been a while. 

first things first, time to clean up the garage- literally - my "shop" has been a wreck for the last 2.5 years, 

at the speed I move- it may be another 2 months before I make the first pile of sawdust..gotta start somewhere. 

 

first things first though. gotta get used to this new site, and clean the garage 

glad to see some old timers are still around. and wow- a beer convo in one of the other forums- . nice. 

Good to see you back Scotty.

SR

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  • 2 months later...
On 11/27/2016 at 7:36 PM, ScottR said:

Sawdust smells good, does it?

SR

smells freakin' great, especially when I have been away from it so long. I also forgot how much I love brushing off dust and curls of wood from the hair on my forearms after a nice session with a router. 

so- I had to remeasure/rethink everything on this- - lining up center line on neck with center line on the body-checking/remeasuring/retracing the neck pocket for 34 inch scale.

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after routing out the neck pocket about 3/4 of its depth- I got the itch to "look at this" so I pulled out the chisels, squared up the corners on the neck pocket- put the bridge "on" (I didnt insert the posts all the way) just to get a looksey. starting to feel like an axe, cant wait to start carving the neck.

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Pearl the temporary shop mascot looks on, She is with us for about 3 months as my eldest child has their new house built. Notice she doesnt get red eye- but rather pearl blue eye. :lol:She is an angel and will be missed when she leaves us. 

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On 9/17/2016 at 11:35 AM, Prostheta said:

Has the bass survived unscathed in the garage? Things have a habit of dinging up with the passage of time....

Carl- I missed this question previously- here is a pic of the body prior to me futzing with it. I circled the dings. Nothing major- only the top of the body- obviously the ones underneath the bridge could be hidden- and that deep one on the body I can steam out plus I still have a boat load of sanding to do. The neck survived unscathed, and surprisingly  was still pretty straight/flat.

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On 11/29/2016 at 4:13 AM, Andyjr1515 said:

Great job, stunning carve and meticulous attention to detail.  Wonderful :thumb:

Thanks Andy- I am trying- especially after letting this sit for a couple years.

On 11/29/2016 at 10:53 AM, Prostheta said:

 Hope the dings weren't too problematic or involved to repair.

I got them out Carl- the one on the bass side upper half of the body was the worst- it was deep- and looked like the end of a  3 corner file hit it and dug in about 1/8". Not sure what caused it- but I put a drop or two of water into it and the other dings each night over 3 nights- and that sort of lifted it a bit

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Saturday night I got out my old soldering iron and a wet piece of paper towel and started steaming it

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and here it is a bit of sanding and a bit of grain filler and we will be good to go

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the only other progress this weekend was with the control panel, though I am thinking I may only do a jack back here- and leave the front without any knobs. still up in the air about that. 

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