XBIGJIMX Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 A 6" Jointer vs an 8" ? Is it worth the money for the extra size? Same deal on Band saw 14 vs 16 or 17" and does anyone have good idea on middle ground HP. WIll be doing resawing at some point and Planer vs thickness sander? If I can have only one whats the more useful? As someone who has way to many tools I'd really only like to buy these items once and not have to "upgrade in a few years" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 I've never found my 6" jointer to be too small. I don't see a need to upgrade it. I'm currently upgrading to a 14" Laguna bandsaw from a 12" Ledacraft. A thicknesser is good for roughing timbers to thickness but you cannot use one on anything delicate. My thicknesser had to be delivered by a truck and crane - I hardly use it. I have two drum sanders. Don't know what is do without them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 (edited) I have an 8" jointer (Grizzly G0490 w/ Byrd Shelix head), and wish it were a little bit bigger. It's just big enough for face-jointing most body halves. The helix head leaves a surface that's practically finish-ready. For bandsaws, I use a 2hp 14" Grizzly G0457, it's got a tall fence and a 10" resaw capability. I've never found myself needing more. Planer vs. thickness sander -- That's a bit of a tough call. I have a Jet 16/32 that I really dig, but do wish I had a good 20" planer with a helix head. I use the CNC with a planing bit, it's way slower than a planer would be, and it still needs to be run through the sander. Changing grits on the sander is more of a hassle than I like, and it's definitely not ideal for taking off more than moderate amounts. If I were to do it again, I'd go with a wider model, so I could run bodies through on an angle, since the paper loads up really quickly from cured glue (I use Titebond original). It's great for thicknessing fretboards and neck blanks, and I definitely wouldn't give it up. Edited October 1, 2013 by DC Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XBIGJIMX Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 is the helix the spiral cutter ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 I cant live without my planer or my drum sander. Unless you get your wood stock within 1/8" of your desired thickness, a drum sander alone wont really cut it. I have used a craftsman 14" 1hp bandsaw for the past 2 years. It has been more than enough. I do wish it had more than 8" resaw capacity though. But i have cut 8" thick wenge no problem on it. an 8" jointer really isnt necessary, unless you feel like jointing every single body half before you glue them together. I only use mine for jointing edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuntinDoug Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 I have this spiral head jointer: http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-X-46-Jointer-w-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0452Z I will never go back to a 3 blade machine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XBIGJIMX Posted October 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 You guys pretty much have me talked into the spiral head thanks for the input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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