Gibralter III bridge

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

I am in the process of planning out a build and was interested in using the Gibralter III bridge from Ibanez. Mainly due to the visual asthetics of the bridge as well as being (according to Ibanez) a modern version of the old Gibralter bridge. These were from what I can tell used mainly on the SZ line.

My question to the forums is have any of you seen this bridge in person? If so, is it worth the price from a tech point of view as compared with a standard type TOM? I'm not talking about the cost of the part, but is it a well designed bridge?

Thanks for any information you guys can send my way.

Bjorn

[Prostheta]

I haven't seen the bridge in person (that I remember of anyway). From a tech point of view, you could argue that Ibanez have the advantage of the TOM being a six-decade old component with recognised weaknesses to improve upon. Ibanez are very good at their design and putting out excellently-executed items like these bridges. The only downside I can see to the Gibraltar III is that you have to finagle a screwdriver under the strings to access the intonation screws, same as a "normal" TOM.

One specific advantage to the Gibraltar III is that the mounting posts retain the unit when it is not under string tension. That said, TonePros and Graph Tech also make TOMs which have magnetic or physical retaining mechanisms.

Some might argue that the traditional saddle's sharp angle is an advantage over the "softer" witness point on the Gibraltar III but it's up to you how you feel about this. Unless the materials that they are made from are cheap (Zamac or other pot metal) then your choice is based on aesthetics, whether the string spacing varies compared to TOMs, etc.

In short, if it is made from good-quality materials, is well-plated and has the specifications you require. Pull the trigger. They look great. Also let us know where you buy them from ;-)

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

I've no doubt about the reliability of the material used coming from Ibanez. I have an old Destroyer with the original Gibralter bridge and aside from normal wear from sweat, it still works perfectly.

I am waiting for pricing on the bridge from my local dealer. There is a site from Germany that has US pricing of $40 for the bridge in chrome. I asked my dealer to ask about the cosmo price. The parts section of the Ibanez site (under Support) is where I found the bridge initially. I was actually after the Quick Change tailpiece and was going to originally use a Gotoh TOM. The New gibralter just called to me for my build. Anyways..... If you get the part number off Ibanez' site, it tells you to take the part number to your local Ibanez dealer for acquisition.

The build I am planning is a set neck version of my old bolt on Iceman that was stolen years ago. I am making a couple of changes to the design such as moving the body toward the headstock from the 18th fret to the 16th fret, reversing the 3x3 headstock, and using the 4 knob control setup of the more expensive models instead of the 3 knob control setup mine had. Neck and body both made from mahogany and using Les Paul Custom model body thickness at edge(my build will not be a carved top). Fretboard is undecided at this point as I have a rosewood and ebony blank. All other specs are based of a friend who owns a bolt on like mine was, but his came in dark grey where mine was black.

[bob123]

For the price its a solid, reliable unit. The aesthetics are nice as well, nice and chunky with an appealing design. That said, i find it to not be the most comfortable of units, and if you palm mute a lot, its kind of irritating.

Also, thGibraltars have a unique string position and bolt pattern. If you get it and dont like it, youre kind of screwed, sorry.

Im a huge hipshot fan, and thats what id suggest honestly, but its totally up to you.

Edited October 27, 2013 by bob123

[Prostheta]

Bjorn wants a TOM.

[bob123]

Christ I was thinking this unit

Good call, didn't know the TOM's were "gibraltars" as well. disregard I suppose, although I think the palm muting issue may be still similar.

Edited October 28, 2013 by bob123

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

Bob I am looking at this bridge tailpiece layout exactly. I like TOMs on my non-floyded guitars. I have enough whammy bar guitars and for this being my third ever build I would rather do a TOM this time around. I don't trust myself to make the angle for the bass side on a TOM install yet, so the Giii is like the old ones where the saddle travel doesnt require the back angle for the bass side of the bridge. I also think it looks friggen cool. The bridge and Tailpiece are $40/ea. from my local Ibby dealer. I will be making this purchase(bridge only, the tailpiece can wait a month or so until I get further along in the build)by next wednesday.

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

Just a quick thought after looking at the pic I posted. Is it normal for the bridge bushings so sit that proud above the finish? Should you install the bushings before or after finishing?

[Prostheta]

It depends on what you want. Some people recess them however in a manufacturing context that is a complication more than anything else, therefore cost. It is far easier to drill one hole, finish the instrument and then snug a bushing down to the level of the finish, especially with those that have a lip such as these.

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

Ok, I have to look at the posts/bushings when I get them. For a second there it looked like the bushings were not seated into the body far enough as the edge looks like it has some knurling. Might just be the lighting

[Prostheta]

I see that also. Quite possibly a reflection. I don't see why knurling or milling around the edge would be useful on a static component like those. A finger-adjustable post, sure. I guess you've pulled the trigger on these parts then?

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

I pulled the trigger today. $43.30 after tax. The bridge should be here within a work week I was told. Once I have it in my hands I will take some close up pictures including those post bushings.

[Prostheta]

Wow, that's super-reasonable. Cheaper than many boutique parts. If Ibanez have no problems in selling these regularly as aftermarket parts I might well have to buy some for review and open discussion with them.

[bob123]

Rich at ibanezrules.com can hook you up with ibanez parts. Hes pretty good with international stuff.

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

Here is the post with bushing. The lip at the top of the bushing will sit proud of the face of the guitar 1.6mm.

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

Here is the bridge. I put the outside saddles at the extreme forward and rearward positions. The bridge is 16.85mm deep(front to back) The most forward sits 6.03mm of the rear side of the bridge. The rearmost sits 1.73mm away from the front of the bridge. With my guesstimation math I believe this to be a total of 8.9mm travel distance between full forward to full rearward positions. For practical use I plan on designing my layout using only half of the full forward distance, or whatever still looks aesthetically pleasing while remaining functional. Full forward is actually very very loose in the base and I believe structurally non functional.

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

Finally, the glorious packaging the whole unit came in to include part number for Cosmo Black. I did not include more detail such as radius, as the bridge is indeed radiused. Ibanez used these on the SZ line so whatever those guitar's radius was should be what these are. All in all this is a stout part. It weighs more in the hand than the Gibson TOM my V has. When I get the matching tailpiece in I will post pictures in this thread as well.

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

Sorry guys, I do not know how to post more pictures per post or if it is even allowed.

[Prostheta]

Upload them to the Gallery and use the My Media button in the post editor.

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

Hey guys, I finally got the tail piece for my build. Ibanez Quick Change III in Cosmo Black. There are a couple of things I am milling over in regards to this build. I finally got to check out a newer Iceman. I wasn't too thrilled with the balancing of the body. It seems the guitar likes to balance similar to a Strat (i.e. as close to horizontal as possible). I have a hard time playing guitars that do this and why my Dinky almost never gets played. I prefer a guitar that balances to a more classical style position.

I also have been thinking about NOT doing an Iceman clone, but rather a clone of my DT-250, but set neck and upsize the body slightly. I also have been toying with the idea about a baritone scale, simply due to that I play in standard B on a six string in my band. Until I figure this out, I plan on just aquiring the parts needed for the build.

I am not going to use Ibanez branded machine heads on this build, simply because I have three old Ibanez guitars and frankly the machine heads after 20+ years just plain suck. Which in turn means no Gotoh either, as they manufacture machine heads for Ibanez. Which leaves Schaller. Schaller does not make Cosmo Black as it is a trademarked color for Gotoh, but they have what is called Ruthinium. Slightly different color, but according to a Dr. Lars Brunning at Schaller, is close enough to the Gotoh color that one can only usually tell under strong light and having parts next to each other. Plus Schaller's I can get a little less expensive through my local dealer, than an equivalent Gotoh, or the Ibanez branded part.

So, until I decide these few things, this build will be slowly moving.

Bjorn

[Prostheta]

Hey Bjorn - good hearing from you. Looks like nice hardware....

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

Not too bad actually, though I do see why the finish wears off of the Ibanez hardware and oxydizes quickly. When you really look at the hardware, you can tell that the plating is just average quality. I honestly wanted to use a different brand than Ibanez, but no one else makes the stop bar in that shape, and the bridge is the modern version of the old Ibby banjo knock-off. I am not disappointed though. I really love the visual aesthetics of the bridge pieces.

I just wish Ibanez would have used some other metal under the plating than pot metal. You should see my DT-250 with the original Edge tremolo I have on it. The low E saddle is very eaten down over the years and the plating on it has what appears to be a bunch of bubbles that have come to the surface and popped. It looks similar to dust being sprayed over with finish paint. Saying that, when I had my Moser Custom Shop with a "new" Kahler on it, the saddles of the Kahler did the same thing within two years. I have a Peavey Mantis with a Kahler that has had hard use since I bought it when they first came out where the plating hasnt worn off like new chrome, or colored finishes do. The saddles and base plate on that tremolo are all brass underneath.

[Prostheta]

Meh, that's a shame. Why is it that some of the best-looking hardware is made cheaply and plated badly? I miss the old Aria Pro II tailpieces.

[Bjorn.LaSanche]

Man Prostheta, you just had to wave that Aria in front of me didn't you. I swear that company made the absolutely most beautiful guitars without ever pushing into the gaudy.

I have ordered the Machine heads and waiting for them to come in. I decided to go with Schaller M6's Regular old school ones. In Schaller's Ruthenium finish. Essentially Schaller's take on the Cosmo Black. I was told by one of the Schaller people via email that the Ruthenium finish is actually a part of the metal and not really a plated finish. Not quite sure how that is, but they take some time to get here. Already 6 weeks since I placed order.