demonx Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Do you ever mitre your binding ends? Depends on my mood, I either trim them with fret saw or band saw and then file flush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pan_kara Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Nice vid! The one time I tried wood binding on a fretboard for some reason I made a clumsy clamping setup. I guess I got stuck on the thought wood glue=lots of clamps.. Tape. Gotta try this next time around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Inside the Workshop - Vol 2http://youtu.be/vzGxjhjWkUo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Do you like the color match with the Black Limba neck blank and the Cocobolo Sapwood body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisdom727 Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 That was a great video about timbers, grain, work-ability, etc. Thank you! I say that should be pinned in the tutorial section. I have made several bad choices on past projects, and would have benefited from your advice. Finishing options would be a nice accompaniment to a tutorial. E.g., 'oil' means very different things to internationals builders. And I like your selections for the current builds. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Do you like the color match with the Black Limba neck blank and the Cocobolo Sapwood body? It's a little busy, but I wouldn't be afraid of it. I do think it would benefit from ebony stringers and an ebony board or something that is relatively even colored to break up or contrast with the patterns you've got going with the coco and limba. That's me though. I'm sure whatever you choose will end up looking stellar.....everything else you've done has. SR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 You remember those marble cakes we used to always want when we were kids with all the colors swirled around? That's the vibe I'm going for on this build. Stringers would break that up (fix the contrast as you suggested) which is the opposite of what I normally do. I want the colors to wash into each other. It's an overkill guitar but not in a gordy way like the Clancy star I built, I'm still trying to keep this one classy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Sort of a natural swirl job huh? Okay, I'm looking forward to seeing this one progress. I expect it to be killer! SR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu. Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Inside the Workshop - Vol 2 http://youtu.be/vzGxjhjWkUo I second this being a useful video! I learnt some of this the hard way, when I sent some flamed maple through my bench planer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 The five neck blanks of the new builds in various stages of scarf jointing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 A pre planned wiring channel: and the neck with a fresh routed truss rod slot to go with the above body: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 The heatwave here has started to die down, so I'm back in the workshop. Started this LP 7 string. Here are the neck blanks for the current six builds, three in this pic have scarf joints in clamps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nowa90 Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Whats your scarf joint procedure? Are the headstocks already cut out before you glue them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Whats your scarf joint procedure? Are the headstocks already cut out before you glue them? If you scroll up a couple pics you'll answer your own question! I cut and shape most of it before scarfing. As for the procedure, I simply cut, clean up the surfaces and clamp. You can find it all on my YouTube channel beginning to end, "Searls guitars part 1" - a lot of my methods have changed since that video but here's still lots of stuff on there that's the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 That was a great video about timbers, grain, work-ability, etc. Thank you! I say that should be pinned in the tutorial section. I have made several bad choices on past projects, and would have benefited from your advice. Finishing options would be a nice accompaniment to a tutorial. E.g., 'oil' means very different things to internationals builders. And I like your selections for the current builds. Thanks for the kind words, I do not think this half arsed on the spur of the moment video should be pinned, it's too hack job. People should just follow my posts instead! I might do some finishing videos in the future and touch in a few points. I'll try make an effort to do a few more spontaneous videos through these builds Any topics people want me to address specifically? Don't be afraid to ask, even if it seems trivial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Thought I'd share this pic. It's Spalted Sassafras. What I have done is poured epoxy over it and rubbed it in, the spalt soaks it up, then I repeat and repeat until there is a epoxy film over the timber. This has to be done before I can do any routing to the spalt otherwise I risk it falling apart. In this pic you can see the clean edge (towards the bottom) where after the spalt has been stabilized I was then able to safely run it over the jointer. In this case there wasn't a whole lot of spalt in that particular area which makes it even safer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Original Posted January 20, 2014 Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Nice! What kind of resin are you using? I'm going to use z-poxy finishing resin for grain filling on my current project. I've heard it works well for what you are doing also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2014 Nice! What kind of resin are you using? I'm going to use z-poxy finishing resin for grain filling on my current project. I've heard it works well for what you are doing also. West systems 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 I started rough cutting bodies today, here is the Rimu & Flamed Maple one: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 A couple progress pics: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 The Paul is sick. Good to see you using the West Systems epoxy I like it so much better than using CA for stabilizing. Worth every penny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Pre drilled depth holes act as depth gauges while routing, they also give me a hole to drop the router bit in when turning it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Every now and then during the build process we like to play hardware dress ups with the guitar just to see how its looking! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 I had to spray a couple guitars today, after spraying them I had a bit of left over clear in the gun, so I grabbed some offcuts from current builds to see the color difference in timber before and after clear. This is Dayne's Rimu top, you can see the inner part has no clear and the top has an explosion of color now, add to that the contrast in darkness between the clear and uncleared. This top will look amazing once it's cleared! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 This top will look amazing once it's cleared! Indeed! Seeing what happens to nice wood when the clear is first applied is like opening presents at Christmas. It always looks so good, but sometimes there is a real surprise. It is always fascinating to me to see how much some woods change while others' colors remain pretty much the same, just richer and deeper. It's one of the best things about playing with wood. SR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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