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demonx

Searls Guitars 2014

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Top binding started.

I really should have paid attention to the reviews that the elcheapo stew mac binding jig is rubbish, as it is. Thing was wobbling around and not giving a straight line.

Will be shopping around for a better binding jig before I do the back. Hopefully a bit of superglue and sanding will make it passable.

I managed to file the bunya join so it should be ok, but there's a couple spots in the blackwood that will need a glue and sand, I just have a gut feeling. Fingers crossed it doesn't, but it probably will.

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I've been too busy to touch this project the last couple days, but this morning while I was waiting for software to install on the workshop computer I fixed the last bit of the top binding.

I left this part until last as it's the bit I was most worried about making invisible.

I used a heat gun to heat the plastic with my right hand and with my left hand I dropped a bit of weld on into the crack the second I pulled my right hand away, then quickly came back with the right hand, pushing the softened binding into the gap before applying the tape.

It has come up pretty good. When I do the finish sanding I'll scrape the binding back a tad so it follows a natural line and doesn't look like it widens, so it should be an invisible repair

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Happy anniversary of this thread.

If you were judging only by this thread you would assume I've been reasonably inactive.

A few people here may know I've been working fulltime getting my CNC up and running. The last week has had lots of issues with getting breakout boards working, the tool changer changing and the rest of the time is spent learning CAD, CAM, G Code and all the other stuff that goes along side owning and operating a CNC.

That also includes constantly testing tool paths and making adjustments etc. It's a VERY time consuming and laborious task that I'm slowly getting progress on.

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Playing around with feed rates on the CNC to see how much it effects the accuracy.

One of these pickup pockets was cut at twelve hundred millimeters per second, the other pocket was cut at twelve thousand millimeters per second.

As you can see, the faster tool path didn't allow time for the router bit to perform the cut correctly and the detail is lost, it also put ridiculous stress on the cutting piece!

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I did not know you were working on that. Very cool! I can imagine setting up a CNC would be quite the time sink, but so worthwhile when you finish and gain that extra pair of hands.

I've liked the progress on your acoustic very much. Love seeing a pointy superstrat builder branch out and try new things. Everyone I know asks when I'm going to try an acoustic and my answer is always "10 years from now".

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Very bad it cuts incomplete highly-rounded pockets at speed. I didn't think the software would allow that to occur!

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Very bad it cuts incomplete highly-rounded pockets at speed. I didn't think the software would allow that to occur!

Using the remote I can change feed speeds, spindle speeds etc as it's running and it will over ride whatever is in the G-Code.

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An action pic from today:

Testing rear tool paths and tool changes. Then making adjustments in CAM so it'll run smoother next time.

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To my untrained eye, it looks like it is commencing subsequent moves prior to the current one being completed. I wouldn't touch that dial if that is the result!

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Biggest problem with the end grain tearout is one piece you'll get tear out and another piece you won't. When I was using CNC in college, we always did test runs in Foam and the program we used, MasterCam, had a preview mode so we could see the tool path as it progressed and could spot and bad lines in the G Code.

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How did you set up your roughing and finish passes?

The CAM package I'm using has all sorts of options, I can select areas to tough out and leave tolerances between the area clearance and the surface so I can come back and profile with a different type of pass for a neater finish.

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I'm sure! Just wondering how I should set up my own work, should I ever get the arse that runs our CNC to do a bit of work for me.

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Yesterday: Testing truss rod and Carbon Fiber slots.

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Yesterday: Testing the neck carve.

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After yesterdays neck trials, I came to the conclusion it needed a redesign as it didn't feel that great. So today I reshaped both the body and the neck models. Not only will it be more comfortable to play, but it looks much better as well.

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Over the last week I've had a chance to run the last changes to the SS model on the CNC, heres a pic of the test cuts (in pine)

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There was a whole list of changes I've made after watching the runs, mostly to make it more efficient. Then other things like allowing a bit more space in the pot holes and less in the switch hole etc.

Now I just need to test little details like the neck bolt ferrule recesses etcas demonstrated in the next screen cap.

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Man, you've got such cool toys! :)

Great designs too, of course, but I love the way you utilize that CNC. Very jealous!

Thanks. I've worked VERY hard for them.

The CNC is out of action for a week or two as of yesterday. Had to send off one of the control cards for a different version. It kept crashing out the Mach software due to USB noise, so I'm getting it replaced with an Ethernet one. It really sucked being in the middle of a program and then it crashes. Reboot start again, reboot, start again, reboot start again. To cut that body and neck took me two full days, yet it's only about two and a bit hours of actual machine time. The rest of the time was spent dealing with the computer crashing. I can't wait for the new card to arrive!

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Those contours are looking good. Is that a bullnose bit you are running? How many passes did it take to do the contours in the cutaways?

SR

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Those contours are looking good. Is that a bullnose bit you are running? How many passes did it take to do the contours in the cutaways?

SR

It's a ball nose and the passes are 0.75mm apart, so quite a few. I've tested at 0.5mm which gives a great finish but takes way too long and tested at 1.0mm which leaves a lot more witness lines, so I've opted to go in between

If I was to change the diameter or radius of the but if have to work out the step all over, so that is only for this bit

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Just a little something I'm working on at the moment.

The customers name is Michael and he wanted his name in Runes on the 12th fret. Then it's simply framed with some basic Norse art that I'll inlay with Mother of Pearl, Malachite and Brass.

The last shot shows the detail cut, but it's filled with dust from when I sanded the radius.

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