demonx Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Another random video we shot today on the spur of the moment: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtmPZsU5xVA&feature=youtu.be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Bit more progress on the Rimu topped guitar. Neck rough carved: Scarf joint area rough carved and after a quick sand to see where its at: Heel area rough shaped and quick sanded to see how it feels: Neck given a quick sand to 320 to see the flamed figure a little bit more: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Natural Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Nice builds here Allan- as always. Curious on one thing- how do you shape the sides of your necks? I notice you leave them somewhat rough cut, then attach the fingerboard. Do you shape by hand/rasp from there or do you have another method? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 It's all on video if you jump on YouTube and search "Searls Guitars Part" and I can't remember which part is neck carving, but if you watch them all they're pretty short videos, you'll get there eventually. I do fit the fingerboard first, then I carve back to the board. Most of my carving is done by rasp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 More necks carved today, here's one of them: Black Limba Neckthru Tasmanian Blackwood Back Cocobolo top Honduran Mahogany headstock with Black Limba cap 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Not many update pics as I've been busy building a bench with shelves and building large doors that are like two gates for the CNC room. Anyway, this is the first top I've carved for 2014. Rimu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsullysix Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 that Rimu looks killer with clear on it. Nice job. Sully Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 that Rimu looks killer with clear on it. Nice job. Sully Yeah, I can't wait to get that one sanded up and painted as it's going to pop so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Tasmanian Blackwood neck carved today, body Queensland maple with Sassafras top. Roughed out with power tools, the rest of the carve is then done old fashioned hand tools and elbow grease: After a bit of lovin': Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 All looking great so far. to me, once i carve the heel on a set neck, and clean it up, is my favorite part. I just love the way it makes the guitar look like a full guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 All looking great so far. to me, once i carve the heel on a set neck, and clean it up, is my favorite part. I just love the way it makes the guitar look like a full guitar. I find that putting the fingerboard on is the first major land mark point for the woodwork side of the build. The neck carve and the top carve etc to me are probably the second landmark stages. This quick video is a response to a request I had but I'll post it here for anyone else who is learning:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpWSlrnEMs8&feature=youtu.be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Roughed out the LP7's neck: After a bit more work (just a bit!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Roughed out the LP7's neck: After a bit more work (just a bit!!) Hmmm... look like the carve runs into where the strap button would be. Looks really cool. Love the Black Limba. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Strap button will be on the back, not on the side like normal. I put them on the back on all my builds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 All looking great so far. to me, once i carve the heel on a set neck, and clean it up, is my favorite part. I just love the way it makes the guitar look like a full guitar. I find that putting the fingerboard on is the first major land mark point for the woodwork side of the build. The neck carve and the top carve etc to me are probably the second landmark stages. This quick video is a response to a request I had but I'll post it here for anyone else who is learning:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpWSlrnEMs8&feature=youtu.be I guess it is different for me, since i glue the fretboard on much sooner than you do on your neck thrus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Cocobolo Sapwood top carve: Also tried to do something different with the LP headstock, streamlined it a bit: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 One of my older builds was on stage last night in the hands of Michael. Good to see them being used Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Few different progress pics of the day: Holes drilled in Daynes SS6: Belly carve in Tasmanian Blackwood (Cocobolo Sapwood SS7): Top carve on the LP7: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 That LP7 is really sweet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 Couple more progress pics: LP7: SS7: For anyone who has never worked with Spalt before, it requires a different plan of attack to a standard timber for a top carve. For example, it needs to be stabalized first, people often use epoxy or CA. You also have to take care whilst sanding, as there are soft and hard pieces of grain close together which will create ripples if you sand wrecklessly, this can be overcome by replacing power sanders with scrapers and files and then block sanding carefully. Takes much more time, but worth it in the end as you can see from the above pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pan_kara Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 Wow, this whole run looks gorgeous! Plus, I was looking at the pics and I suddenly realized that my way of doing electronics cavities is completely stupid and yours is much better. Me: - figure out where I want the cavity, pre-drill, rout - later think where I want the pots etc, try to somehow figure out how to mark at the front where the cavity is - lay out the controls hoping that I didn't screw up and they indeed are inside the cavity - drill holes (chipout) and here I see: - roughly trace the cavity shape at the front - lay out the controls inside that shape - drill all the way through the body - lay out the shape from the back again (guided by the holes) - rout etc from the back This just makes so much more sense.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Wow, this whole run looks gorgeous! Plus, I was looking at the pics and I suddenly realized that my way of doing electronics cavities is completely stupid and yours is much better. Me: - figure out where I want the cavity, pre-drill, rout - later think where I want the pots etc, try to somehow figure out how to mark at the front where the cavity is - lay out the controls hoping that I didn't screw up and they indeed are inside the cavity - drill holes (chipout) and here I see: - roughly trace the cavity shape at the front - lay out the controls inside that shape - drill all the way through the body - lay out the shape from the back again (guided by the holes) - rout etc from the back This just makes so much more sense.. This is the way i have done it for years. You are right, it is a much better method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Everything you said is right, except I'll add that I've also made a template that I can sit on top that is the same shape as my rear route and it's got holes drilled so I can position pots and switches instantly. Even though I have this template i still usually just lay it out manually and use the template only for the outer shape! Also, yes, I drill the outer pot holes straight through so I can locate the rear easily. I usually don't bother to drill the middle holes any deeper than a centimetre as they'll appear when you route Also, I use the pre drilled holes as a depth gauge for routing. Means I don't have to measure, I just eyeball and if I'm using any short posted switches or pots I can just test fit and keep routing till I'm happy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2014 I've been so busy I haven't got around to taking pics of this one till today. Its the last of 2013's Workhorse run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Timber is a 3D object. Sometimes once you carve you find things you don't expect, for example in this Sassafras top there was a small hollow cavity. I carved through the hollow as it wasn't very deep, but then I wasn't happy with the resulting shape of the carve. QC steps in, cuts it up and I've got some new timber on the way that is even better than what I cut off. Electronics cavity in the Cocobolo/Tasmanian Blackwood: Here is a couple pics of Dayne's guitar, the layout: The cavity in Rimu and African Mahogany: Then flipped over to drill the output jack hole: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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